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I'm also looking for a hot tent for four people. Could you share your experience and suggest an alternative to this tent? Thank you.

Very observant of you Chris. It works perfect in conjunction with Just Bill's Townsend Hammock, especially when using either the inner or outer tarp bars I ordered with DW Xenon bonded tarp. If winds are strong, I hang the tarp lower, closer to the hammock, close the doors off and stay snug as can be. If weather is warm, I hang the tarp higher, giving me tons of room above the hammock, keep the doors open, allowing for any available breeze(s). On a side note, I use Hammock Gear's UQ protector, coupled with my HG custom premium incubator underquilt. They both work perfectly with the Townsend hammock. Thx for your input.

Do you have any images of the hammock set up with under quilt and protector? I have been using a warbonnet bridge hammock protector with my enlighten equipment 30 degree under quilt, but I am looking to get another under quilt built for bridge hammocks as the EE is tapered at foot end. Hammock camper for years but switched last year to bridges. Also, is this the 2 peron tarp you are using or just the wide? I have the wide qued up in my DW cart now, but I want to confirm. 👍

@@chrismohodge1 Have several pics in my Google photo album. Just figured out how to create a link to it. Go to my channel heading and look for link under ABOUT. You'll have to tweak the incubator to suit your sleeping preference As to your question about tarp, I have the Charcoal Xenon Bonded Wide Winter tarp with doors and inner and outer poles + aux ridgeline from Dutch, not the 2 person.

You're in good company, then as AB Camping frequently employs Aqua Quest. I own several tarps myself but when I need to make absolutely sure I don't get wet when I'm hammock camping, I defer to Dutchware Gear's Bonded Zenon tarps. No sewn seams, no place to leak. Tony has produced sev reviews, some mixed, on the Aqua Quest line of tarps but generally likes them.

I hope you enjoy.

You certainly can do that, too. Some people just don't like carrying any more stakes than they have to. Which ever method one uses, the key is to orient the mesh insert properly before staking out. Thx for your input.

You might want to chk Pomoly's site for those specs.

@@TwoTracksOutdoors pomoly has their Official numbers there. Not sure if they count in the pole, stakes. So real life weight could be something totally different.

@@Arvutimaailm So, I placed the tent, stakes, pole and bag on my Postal scale. It shows approx 14.1 lbs., rather light for this size tent but too heavy, IMHO for backpacking. EDIT: Rechecking how I packed my tent, I realized I had placed extra stakes and a pole light inside the tent bag, as well. After removing those items, I reweighed and it came to 12.35 lbs, instead of 14.1, plus the mesh inserts would weigh another 5 lbs. Hope that helps you.

@@TwoTracksOutdoors and that now was with or without the inner mesh?

@@Arvutimaailm You asked for the weight of the stuff sack, pole, tent and stakes, so that's what I gave you. The two inner mesh weigh an add'l 5 lbs for a combined weight of approx 17.35 lbs total weight.

I'm too old to play baseball and why would you play the game on a king size bed? It appears you play a version of baseball the rest of us are not yet familiar with.

Thx Bwillan. I only use a larger tent when I base camp with 2 or more people. All my hikes to date have been solo, in which case I prefer hammock camping. Won't be base camping with a group until late Oct, at which time I will take two tents, the Bromance 70 and the Timber Ridge 6 person glamping tent. I will post my opinions on both tents, after that 4 day outing. I can tell you now that my brother and I will both be sleeping in the Bromance 70 for that trip, using it as I have it set up in this video. Thx for the question, as we are looking fwd to getting away and checking it out.

After seam sealing my own tent, inside as mentioned, I did not have any leaks around any seams. I did have a couple of drops of water leak around the velcro of one stove jack but it was only minor. There is no way to seal around the stove jack openings of this tent, as this would defeat the velcro closures. Pomoly's tents come seam sealed from the factory and they do a good job but I always seam seal my own tents and tarps, whenever I receive them. Good luck with your tent and thanks for your input.

Good luck with the Peak TC. Let us know how it works out.

I would have opted for the Yarn Octa over the Peak TC. The cost is the same. I just prefer 8 sides for a tipi vs 6.

@@bwillan Good call. It is 1.7ft wider at the base, a half-foot taller, and more tie-downs. Same price and weight. I did not know about it.

Thx for your input. I'll try it next time I pitch it. I'll also bring a couple extra tent pegs, just in case.

That's what the inner mesh tents are designed for. Most hot tents do not come with a sewn in floor and I prefer it that way. You can always throw down some kind of footprint, canvas or sil-poly tarp or whatever suits your fancy, if seeing the bare dirt bothers you.

@@TwoTracksOutdoors it would only bother me in warm weather. Bugs don't like cold, and I don't like them!! Lol

@@joebuck4496 I hear ya, Bro...

I have not yet camped overnight in mine but always re-seal the seams, when I receive a new tarp or tent, regardless of whether the Mfg. states their product has been seam sealed. I will check the areas you mentioned, once I am able to expose the tent to the elements. Thx for your input. As mentioned in the video, my purpose for first tent pitch was to determine if two cots would comfortably fit inside the interior mesh tents. With only limited time this day, after seeing they definitely would, I broke the tent down, packed up and went home. Will expose to rain another day, well before my first camp out.

@@TwoTracksOutdoors i like the design of the tent in general but it leaks around the vent velcro seals and door seams. I will look at trying to seal this

@@MarriedToTheKGB Good luck. You can purchase small tubes of ready mixed seam sealer in Walmart, HD and other stores but you don't get much and it is not cost effective, so when I seam seal mine, I just go buy some clear silicone in tubes or white that dries clear, at HD, Lowe's or any hardware store, then do a 50/50 mix of silicone and odorless mineral spirits in a can or plastic cup, stir it up, then apply to seams only on the inside of the tent, using a small paint brush or paint sponge. Some people suggest wiping the seam off after applying. I never do this, insuring I get a good seam seal. I do NOT seam seal the seams on the outside of the tent because it tends to look rather unsightly. Of course, if you don't care about appearances, you can just seal to your heart's content. I leave the tent up overnight, allowing the silicone mix to completely dry. Even after allowing to dry overnight, the silicone you apply remains tacky so, I follow up by putting some body powder in another cup, applying same to seams I just siliconed, using a dry paint brush, to prevent the seams from sticking together when packing the tent up. Lots of work, I know but this has always paid off over the long haul. Now, after seam sealing, powder coating once dry, I then check for leaks by hosing the tent down. Once satisfied, I break the tent down and pack it up until my next camp outing. Of course, you probably already knew all this but some things are worth repeating. Nobody wants to camp out in a tent or under a tarp that leaks, only because they haven't been properly seam sealed.

@@TwoTracksOutdoors thanks for such in depth advice that i will certainly try. Enjoy your camping

@@MarriedToTheKGB Ok, in response to your comment about leaking around the vents, I decided to seam seal the entire interior of my Bromance 70 tipi tent this morning. There are lots of seams on this tent, so , after mixing up an 8 oz mixture of equal parts silicone and mineral spirits, I proceeded with the sealing, which took a couple of hrs. Finished with that task early morning, I decided to wait until around 3 p.m. to test for leaks, using my garden hose. While I didn't take time to film it, I can tell you that I did notice a few small water drops coming in around two of the three stove jack openings, migrating thru the velcro closures and not the tent fabric. I did not have any water penetration around the two air vents or door seams. Curious, I decided to add one of the 3 provided stove jack fire resistant fabric panels to the stove jack opening, closed the flap and re-hosed that area. I found this cut out most of the leak on that particular flap area. So, then I added the remaining two flaps to the other openings and took care to rub the velcro closures closed between my two hands. In all three stove jack openings this helped eliminate most of the water leaking. Still, I noted a very small amount of water occasionally penetrating the velcro but not enough to be concerned about. It is almost impossible to close velcro enough to eliminate all gaps. I should note that the stove jack openings are placed on the two doors and in the center of the tent, where no one will be sleeping and very little gear will be sitting, except two chairs and a stove down the road. There was no leaking on the sides, where the inner mesh tents will stand and the cots will sit inside. So, I don't see a problem staying dry in my Bromance 70 tipi tent but hope to put it to a rainy night camp test, the first time I go camping. I will follow up here with my results and findings.

So glad for You Tube so everyone can see the videos. Hope Dylan's back is getting better.