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That's a lovely thing. Enjoy.

I’m bearing! I’m bearing! 😂 Great job keeping that old gal alive and kicking! 👏👏

Well done! Such a pretty vintage Rolex! Subscribed!

Could you give more info on black plate above the heating element, i have one of these machines, but i dont have this plate,Cheers!

Hi, I refurbished one of these, I used VHT wrinkle paint, and I was a perfect match to the original and it's heat proof, from Amazon UK. I rewired mine because the controller had failed it was a pain, yours looks original I would get an electrician to check it over if they are happy its safe leave as is.

Hello mercurial how are you thanks for info

Great acquisition! These things are of good quality and they’re built to last. Only the paint and wiring deteriorates, as you can see. I would completely disassemble it, remove all the old paint, repaint or enamel it and replace all of the wiring. There is a UA-cam video of someone doing this with an old L & R machine. They use a spray on enamel which is then baked to harden it. The machine comes out looking like new.

This will make a perfect little daily wearer Alan, it’s got lots of character and has been clearly worn and loved, hope to see you showing us the results of a clean and service soon your doing well with the hobby and we enjoy your videos mate. 👍🙏😉

No doubt about this one being genuine, you have a great watch there, Alan. The Size 10 1/2 - H on the dial plate is the size (diameter) and type of the movement. The size (10.5) is measured in lignes. One ligne is 2.558mm. The H denotes that it is a hunter configuration movement, which is a movement with the winding stem at the 3 o’clock position. The terminology comes from the pocket watch era. Hunter type movements went into hunter type pocket watch cases, and Savonette movements (which have the winding stem at the 12 o’clock position went into open faced pocket watch cases, where the winder is at 12 o’clock. Many movements were made in both hunter and savonette configurations. All normal wristwatch movements, having the winder at 3 o’clock are hunter configuration. The 0589 is a serial number or production run number, which is also stamped on some other parts of the movement, such as the underside of the bridges and the balance cock. The movement in this watch was made by Aegler. If you look at the area of the main plate where the balance wheel is located, you may well see an Aegler logo. Make sure you look up how to deal with the shock settings of this watch so you can remove the cap jewels before cleaning and replace them properly during reassembly. This is not a normal incabloc or kif spring.

Hi Alan, and congratulations on your first Rolex! At a first glance in this video, it looks good to me, but without at least knowing how it runs and seeing the movement, it’s hard to say much more. It should contain the Rolex calibre 700 movement, which was made by Aegler. As was often the case at the time, Gruen also used the same Aegler movement, calling it the Gruen 825. The same movement existed in several grades, including 7 jewels, 11 jewels, 15 jewels and 17 jewels. Rolex only used the higher grade, higher jewelled versions but frankenwatches get sold with a Rolex dial, Rolex Oyster or simply Oyster case and some other inferior version of the Aegler movement. One common trick is to put a Rolex branded ratchet wheel onto an inferior version of the movement to make it more convincing. Once I have seen the watch with the back off, and better yet seen it disassembled, I can offer you a lot more insight. Fingers crossed that yours is as it should be inside. I look forward to seeing the inside of the watch and the disassembly video. The upside to this Aegler movement being used in other watches is that spare parts aren’t too hard to find.

Looks nice, but does it run?

You’re continuing to improve with each video, which is great to see, well done! Here’s some feedback and advice after watching this disassembly. I know that being unable to remove the crown threw off your normal order of disassembly, but I’d suggest that the following order of steps is good practice. The below applies to watches with a removable case back. Remove the strap/bracelet. Examine the holes that the spring bars fit into for wear and damage. Before you open the watch, check whether it runs and check the keyless works by winding the watch and pulling the crown out to the hands setting position and check that you can set the time. Pull out and push back the crown a few times to check the parts of the keyless works are moving between winding and setting modes correctly and decisively. This also checks that the stem and crown are retained by the movement and won’t come out completely. If the watch has a date function, check that the date can be set via the crown. When checking that you can set the time, turn the hands through a full 12 hours to ensure that they never touch eachother or the dial and that the setting works are free of defects. Check the above with the watch running if it works and observe whether the watch stops when setting the time. Check both setting the time forwards and backwards. A watch with a hacking function should stop running when you pull the crown out to setting mode, watches like this without hacking should keep running, including when you’re setting the time in either direction. Next, remove only the back of the watch. This keeps the dial and hands protected. Let down the power in the mainspring and set the hands to a position where they overlap for easy removal when it comes time to remove them. Now remove the crown. *see at the bottom of this comment for what to do if the crown won’t come out as you experienced here. Now it is time to remove the movement from the case. An examination of any case screws or clamps will tell you whether it comes out of the front or the back. If it comes out through the front, remove the bezel, then remove the hands, then any case screws or clamps and you can turn the movement out dial down onto a casing cushion. If it comes out through the back, release the movement and turn it out dial up onto a casing cushion and then remove the hands. When removing the sub seconds hand, it is good to have some very thin hand levers. You can modify a set yourself by thinning them with files or a stone, but be sure to polish the ends well afterwards to a smooth shiny finish. Now reinsert the crown and stem. It provides a useful handle for lifting and holding the movement, it retains the winding pinion and sliding pinion in place when removing the dial. It allows you to wind the watch if necessary for troubleshooting and to release any residual power in the mainspring in a controlled manner afterwards. Now remove the dial. If sugarloaf screws are used to hold the dial, like this movement, turn each screw so as to tighten it (clockwise) until the dial foot is freed. This is because the screws are turned as if to loosen them when securing the dial to the movement, because this pulls the dial in towards the dial plate as the edge of the sugarloaf screws grip the dial foot. (Jumping ahead for a moment to reinstalling the dial later on, to try to make sure I’ve explained this clearly, start with the dial foot screws screwed down all the way whilst leaving room for the dial feet to enter. Fit the dial, and turn the screws anticlockwise as if to loosen them. That way the dial is pulled towards the movement when the screws start to bite into and grip the dial feet. If you tighten the dial foot screws to secure the dial, you’re actually pushing the dial away from the movement slightly.) Once the dial is removed, you can then remove the dial washer, hour wheel, minute wheel and cannon pinion. A thorough inspection and testing process as you disassemble the movement will save a lot of work. Any fault you find now is a fault you can fix that won’t prevent the watch from running or make it run badly when reassembled. If faults remain undetected until after you’ve reassembled and oiled the movement, you have to disassemble, clean the parts again, reassemble and relubricate. Good inspection during disassembly and again after cleaning is very important. Pay attention to any areas where you see rust, corrosion or other signs of water ingress. For example this watch had discolouration and rust around the keyless works. The location of the rust is often informative. In this instance, the location of the rust suggests that water got in to the case via the crown tube. The fit of the crown to the case tube must be checked and a fresh o ring put into the crown. The first step (assuming mainspring power has already been let down) when you turn the movement back over is removing the balance cock and balance wheel, after checking for free movement, endshake, inspecting the hairspring - is it centered, true in the flat, true in the round, evenly spaced coils? Once removed, examine the pivots, roller table and regulator pins. Before you remove the barrel bridge, always check the sideshake and endshake of the mainspring barrel arbour. Once the ratchet wheel has been removed, test side shake by pushing side to side on the barrel arbour with some peg wood, to test end shake you can screw a piece of sharpened peg wood into the threaded hole in the barrel arbour to get a firm grip on the arbour. You can then pull up and press down using the peg wood as a handle to see and feel the end shake. Unless a movement is so dirty the wheels won’t move, it is good practice to inspect the end shake on the wheels of the going train before dismantling it. To do this, you can use an old oiler to gently lift up each wheel to ensure there is some endshake, and check clearances with respect to the other wheels, cocks and bridges to ensure there isn’t too much endshake. With experience you will be able to feel what is insufficient or excessive endshake. The side shake should be ok for pivots running in jewels unless there is extreme wear to the pivots, but those wheels that run in unjewelled bearings like the centre wheel in this watch must be checked for excessive side shake. Carefully inspect each wheel, pivot and pinion as you remove each wheel, this can help identify parts that will need replacing, bent arbours, bent pivots or scored/rough pivots that need burnishing in the Jacot tool. Reinspect them after cleaning, as dried lubrication can imitate or conceal damage. Continue the disassembly and inspection process until the watch is fully dismantled. You’ve now disassembled the watch ready for precleaning and cleaning. Your video ends here, so I’ll stop here too. Keep up the great work, I look forward to your next video when it’s ready. No hurry, worry about careful, methodical work, not how often you post a video to UA-cam. *what to do if you can’t release the crown and stem - If the screw for releasing the crown won’t turn, first let down any power in the mainspring. Then you can remove the barrel bridge, it will lift up off this screw. You can then remove the crown. The way I would’ve dealt with that damaged screw to release the crown for this watch is by modifying a screwdriver to fit it. To avoid shaping and reshaping the screwdrivers in your main screwdriver set too much, it’s handy to have some extras that you modify on a very fine Arkansas stone whenever you need to shape one for a specific screw or watch. To avoid spending the full cost of a second set of quality Bergeon or Horotec screwdrivers, buy a cheaper set from China that has nice handles and replaceable tips. Then order a set of replacement screwdriver blades from Horotec or Bergeon and put them into the Chinese handles. Screws vary a lot from watch to watch, some have very thin slots for their size, others thicker slots etc. No one screwdriver tip shape can suit all screws that size. It’s important to match your screwdrivers well to the screws, even when they’re not damaged, so a second set as described above is indispensable. You can keep one set ground quite fine, the other set ground for wider slotted screws. Minor modifications to a wide or fine tip screwdriver should have it fitting any given screw easily. You can get by with just one set of screwdrivers, but you’ll be reshaping the tips a lot from watch to watch.

You need to exercise caution when working on watches with lume that are this old. Up until the 1970s (depending upon where the watch was made) the lume contained radium, which is highly radioactive and has a long half life. It remains highly radioactive long after the line stops growing, and it takes around 1,600 years for the radioactivity to decrease by half. You can use a Geiger counter to test watches for radioactivity so you know when you need to take the appropriate precautions. Assume any watch this old with lume contains radium unless you’ve tested it yourself and know it doesn’t. Whilst the watch is closed inside it’s case, the lume on hands is safely contained. You can own and wear watches with radium lume without endangering yourself. The risk comes when you open the watch, but you can work on watches with radium lume safely if you take the proper precautions. The radium is very dangerous IF it gets into your body. If you inhale any dust or flakes from the lume, swallow any or get any in a cut in your skin it poses significant health risks. If you’re going to relume these hands I suggest you read about safely dealing with the radium that may be present. You must take precautions against creating dust, inhaling dust and to contain all of the old line you remove. Brand new lume often looks out of place on a vintage watch. You can mix a little instant coffee into the new lume before applying it to get the colour of vintage lume, which will look more appropriate on the watch. There are videos about this online. There is a lot of information regarding safe handling of radium contaminated watches online, please familiarise yourself with it if you haven’t already. You’re doing a great job and I can see the improvement with each new video. I’ve got more to share regarding this video, but wanted to get the radium warning posted immediately in case you were unaware of the danger it poses.

Good honest work. Please keep going, watching is a pleasure.

The broken spring can probably be replaced by bending a new one to shape from some springy steel. It’s likely a Longines movement, I’ve described in another comment how to find out which one. You will want an image of what the keyless works looked like before you took them apart, because that is like a unique ‘fingerprint’ for the movement.

Just in case you didn’t know this, with a lot of pocket watches, the movement comes out of the case and the stem remains in the case tube, but pocket with watches like this one, you must remove the stem before you try to remove the movement from the case or you will snap the stem. I’m not saying that you snapped the stem, but given where the stem snapped, this is probably how that happened.

Great to see another video from you. I’m only part of the way through watching the video, but I think the watch movement was made by Longines. If you’d like to learn how unmarked watch movements are identified, there is a great tutorial on both the Chronoglide channel and Alex Hamilton’s excellent UA-cam channel Watch Repair Tutorials on finding watch parts. The first stage of finding the parts you need is identifying the movement. Between the two videos I mentioned, they cover this topic very well. After you’ve removed the hands, dial, dial washer etc from the dial side of the movement, always get in the habit of releasing the click and gently releasing and power on the mainspring before going further. The uncontrolled release of power that can result from not doing this can damage a watch very badly. Once you have done that and removed the ratchet and crown wheels, always check the mainspring barrel for endshake and sideshake before removing any screws from the barrel bridge, to see if the holes need closing on the staking set. You checked the side shake very well. To check the endshake, screw the point of the pegwood into the hole in the top of the mainspring arbour. The screw threads in the hole will grab on to the pegwood. Now you have a ‘handle’ attached to the barrel, you can pull up on it and push down too, to see if there is excessive endshake. The huge oil deposit you found under the barrel bridge usually represents an attempt to compensate for too much play in the mainspring barrel arbour. Excess oil doesn’t help, but is often found if the previous watchmaker didn’t know how to close the holes.

AS is the maker A.Schild (very good) and the numbers are the calibre and other numbers will be the serial number. I'm a watch tinker to sir I've liked and subed btw your doing great

That spring in the keyless works that jumped away at about 27:45 can be tricky to control, even if you hold it down whilst disengaging and removing it. Whilst learning, a good safety precaution here is to put the whole movement holder and movement into a sandwich size ziplock bag and disengage and free the spring through the plastic. Once it’s loose and can’t fly away, take the lot out of the bag again.

The part you remove 25:28 is called the cover plate and integrated detent spring.

At 23:16 in the video where you show the underside of the barrel bridge, you can see wear marks where the mainspring barrel has dragged against the bridge. This is a clear indication that my suspicion of excessive sideshake and possibly endshake of the barrel arbour in the holes of the barrel bridge and dial plate was correct. You need to close those holes to the correct size. The Chronoglide UA-cam video called hammer time will guide you through the process. It isn’t difficult. You need a staking set and a smoothing broach to do it.

You asked in this video how the footage from using two cameras is. I like it and it is a definite improvement. You’ve done a much better job of keeping everything in frame and in focus. Occasionally the focus on a part you are showing is a little out of focus, like showing the pivots of some wheels, but it’s still ok. I can see the improvement in your handling of tools and parts as well.

The heavy oil deposit you found under the ratchet wheel is usually an indication that the mainspring barrel has too much sideshake and possibly endshake too. This is caused by the holes they run in on the barrel bridge and dial plate becoming slightly enlarged. I think you will find the barrel had a lot of wobble (it should have nearly none). Adding extra oil like you saw will not fix the problem but sadly is often seen. The way to fix this is to close the holes that the barrel runs on. There is a great video on how to do it on the Chronoglide UA-cam channel. It is called hammertime. If you don’t fix this problem, the watch will run with very low amplitude, if it runs at all. A good test for excessive barrel shake is with the barrel in the movement and the barrel bridge screwed down, turn a pointed piece of pegwood into the barrel arbour screw hole. The pegwood will thread into the hole and grip the arbour. You can now use the pegwood as a handle to pull up to see endshake and move it sideways to inspect sideshake. There should be very little play visible. If you are unsure if there’s too much shake on the barrel, just post a video of the test abi e and I’ll let you know.

I’ve not yet watched further than you asking what the AS logo and the number 984 means. The AS logo is the logo for a Swiss watch movement manufacturer called A. Schild. You will find their movements in many watches. The 984 means this watch uses the A. Schild calibre 984 movement. You didn’t ask about the little minute markers near 12 o’clock on the dial plate are, but it’s worth knowing. Since A. Schild produced movements for other watch houses, they didn’t fit case parts, such as dials and hands. So, to test that a movement was running within the accuracy specifications, they fitted temporary hands and used those minute markers to check accuracy. It is very common for both ratchet and crown wheel screws to have left hand threads (clockwise to loosen them). Well done for not snapping the heads of either screw, this catches the unwary by surprise very often!

This is a whole new world to me. The best thing about UA-cam is never knowing what I'll be enjoying next. Warm wishes from Millionaire Paul 👋

Fascinating channel (Followed you from vidiq to support) Warm wishes from Millionaire Paul 👋

Hi Mark thanks for the advice when I first started I got cheap screwdrivers I learned a valuable lesson as they broke on me so I got expensive ones and thank you

There are some tools, like tweezers and screwdrivers where it is important to buy quality items and they will prove to be much better value in the long run, not to mention far outperforming cheaper versions. With some other tools, such as a crystal press like this, you will get good use and decent performance out of the cheaper options. One other upside to the quality new and vintage watchmaking tools is that they will hold their value if kept in good condition so you can recover your investment should the need arise. My approach was to get the basic tools for movement disassembly, cleaning, lubrication and reassembly plus a timegrapher first. I accumulated the rest of my tools over time as the need arose and I gained experience. Keep up the good work! Mark

Hope that you will enjoy this watch in better health. Not sure, but I think that the watch may be missing a dial washer. Best regards.

You’ll get much 31:03 better results from your ultrasonic cleaner (or dedicated watch cleaning machine) if you unscrew and remove all cap jewels, and clean hardened old lubricant from hole jewels using sharpened pegwood. As you found here with the screw on the dial side holding down the integrated keyless works cover plate and detent spring, sometimes the screwdriver thin enough to enter the slot in the screw head is too narrow for the screw head. Using an undersized screwdriver that fits the screw or trying to use an appropriate size screwdriver that is too thick are both likely to damage the screw and leave unsightly marks. There are two ways to work around this. One is have a fine Arkansas stone to hand and adjust the tip thickness of your screwdrivers as needed. An alternative is to have a second set of screwdrivers with finer shaped tips. A very economical way to do this and still have decent quality is to buy a cheaper Chinese copy of the Bergeon or Horotec screwdrivers and buy a set of replacement screwdriver tips from Horotec or Bergeon to put in the Chinese handles. With one set of regular shaped screwdrivers and another with finer tips you will seldom need to adjust the shape of your screwdrivers to fit a screw.

Haven’t finished watching the video yet, just wanted to say hi and a fellow disabled watchmaker. I’m lucky enough to still be able to enjoy fishing, provided it is from somewhere I can sit on my wheelchair or mobility scooter. No walking or standing for me, though. Watchmaking certainly provides a terrific pass time, where my disability becomes almost unnoticeable. Never stop learning and keep up the good work.

You can almost certainly get a replacement jewel from Dave’s Watch Parts. Just Google that name. I think you might also be missing the lower cap jewel for the balance, too. There is a high chance that you cracked that jewel when dismantling the watch, I’ll explain why below. Rest assured that this is a very common mistake made when beginners attempt to take apart a full plate watch. You are fortunate not to have snapped or bent a pivot on the pallet fork too, as it often happens simultaneously. When a full plate watch is fully assembled, the end of the pallet fork that engages with the roller jewel is resting inside the potence of the balance wheel. If you remove the balance from a full plate watch and look into the hole where the balance staff was, you will see the end of the pallet fork in this potence. If you unscrew the top plate of the watch and lift it directly upwards as in this video, you pull up on the end of the pallet fork whilst it’s lower pivot is still in its jewel in the dial plate. This action leads to breaking/bending the pallet fork pivot and/or breaking the pallet fork jewel in the dial plate as likely happened here. To avoid this from happening, disassemble the movement ‘upside down’ and lift the dial plate away from the movement instead of lifting the top plate. I also noticed that it looks like the pallet fork is missing it’s guard pin.

Practice makes perfect. I hope to do this as well some day.

Yeh I no thank you for watching there is someone that can fix it 🙂

The watch face became damaged sir

I think you damaged the watch face removing the second set of hands.

Thank you

awesome video