Відео

Based off the research the electric pumps that are simple enough to modify this aren't strong enough to power the steering on these. You could theoretically go with a newer style like from the f150 but at the same time it's not plausible because there's not enough support for them by way of stand alone harnesses or controllers.

Here it's called engine coolant. We don't freeze.

Cooling fans didn't come on by the computer but they'd come on if you used a power probe. Also it had a code for the coolant temp sensor

Yes and not properly calibrated. Get it from ford

ua-cam.com/video/xPpSAaEEfME/v-deo.htmlsi=c5iz4sihuw5wzYUA

@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc thanks brotha

@arnoldrodriguez6300 you're very welcome

I fixed it in the end

I bought it off of eBay. It was 1/10 the cost of the factory radio

A lot of these newer cars are!

You can't see much of anything even in person

It was a bad steering angle sensor

Yep. Mine went too. 900.00 later!

It's extremely involved. Older times was maybe two bolts hoses and cooler lines. If it's leaking though I'd definitely fix it. The Penta star engines don't like being overheated.

@ i know!! I’ve changed out a few radiators in older cars it’s not too bad. This will make me curse the whole day lol. I know i have to change it out it’s only a little leak now just been adding to it. Looks like next weekend project.

That's the hard thing. You can't see them unless you pull the rail out. They're literally in between the intake ports.

It's hard to explain since there were quite a few different codes thrown. It called for intake camshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor but the customer put a cheap one in. I moved the exhaust side to intake and put a new one in the intake. It didn't really have any drivability issues.

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc ok thanks for the response, it’s going into Land Rover tomorrow for diagnostics - praying it’s not the chain and or a top end rebuild given it cut out gracefully with no noises!

@BNOCSK if your code is a correlation code then it could need timing done. If it only calls for a camshaft position sensor then the likelihood of it needing timing done is minimum. Typically camshaft and crankshaft correlation would need timing redone or relearned.

My code is for a camshaft gear…is it ever possible that a camshaft sensor could throw this code?

@sophian444 I don't think the cam gear has the reluctor wheel/ring on it.

This one may very well have a bad head gasket.

Hopefully you can get it fixed and get her back on the road. Lot cheaper than buying a brand new truck that’s for sure!

@ryantrott9529 slowly but surely working my way to a look that I like

It came out and back in very easy

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc on mine I have a 2018 it’s been challenging but I have a 1/2 15mm socket. Will the swivel make it easier?

1/2”

@davidlea4154 making room is the key to taking it off. Remember if it leaks you'll have to do it again. If I remember correctly the intake is on that side. The intake is easy to take off. If your engine overheats too much it's done and that sensor not being tight enough will cause it to leak. Make the room needed to get right on to it and make sure it's tight with the thread sealer lock tight on it or Teflon tape

Glad I could help! ☺️ Consider subscribing and sharing the channel

This thing ran horrible. I changed the valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil everywhere. Even after changing it it started leaking again because the engine was bad

Fords…just not worth the time. Thanks.

I think I used a stubby wrench on this. I honestly can't remember

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc open side of the wrench?

It's not horrible

I did all of this without jacking it up.

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc Thanks man, I think my alternator is bad and draining my battery overnight. Appreciate your video and for getting back to me so quick!

This vehicle has been long gone. The camshafts are easy to replace on these engines. I don't have a video of it but they're really easy

what did you use to tight the sensor?

@dannyraygoza6945 3/4 deep socket if I'm not mistaken

@dannyraygoza6945 unless you're talking about Ralph

I couldnt agree more,but im sure your words are lost on him, i doubt its his car, he didnt even know the year

After working on this vehicle for quite some time she ended up taking it to Dodge and they said that this vehicle is notorious for having a bad PCM and wiring harness so she ended up getting rid of the vehicle and got something else

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc I’m beginning to see why so many people get rid of these jeeps. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I’ve replaced the oil filter housing because it broke and leaked, I’ve replaced the shifter bezel wiring harness because of the “service transmission” light, now all this I’ve replaced and I’m still having the red lightening bolt pop up. There is just way too much going on with these vehicles and all the sensors and computers.

@MidwestRCcrawler did you scan it to see what's causing it? Anything electrical would trigger the light as well. Bad ignition coil, bad alternator, bad O2 sensor, bad knock sensor, back camshaft position sensor, bad VVT solenoid, the list goes on and on anything that is electrical or has a plug in would cause that light to come on

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc I haven’t scanned it. I have no check engine light and so all I’ve found to remedy this issue was to clean the throttle body, which I did. Didn’t fix it. Replaced the throttle body, Didn’t fix it. Replace the mass air flow temp meter, didn’t fix it. Replace the accelerator pedal position sensor, didn’t fix it. But no, I haven’t scanned it for anything else.

@@MidwestRCcrawler I would scan it just to be on the safe side that way you can see exactly what is causing it even though an engine light is not on there still could be an electrical problem that is not presented itself enough to trigger an engine light

I used a quarter drive torx bit from Cornwell tools.

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc thx but I am wondering what you used to turn that bit.?

Same. No idea how I'm going to get the last screw out.

​@@shillpolice7981 I got it! Ended up using a small allen wrench to get the screw by the frame out.

@@jessar2003yea I wasn’t sure if Allen would get in there and could not find a single for sale to try it. May have been another thread I posted but found a screwdriver with a flex hose spade that has a t-15 torx in the kit…. It’s a POS but it got it from the underside of that frame member standing under hood and made the other three screws gravy. It was 10bux. I’m gonna have to take em out again because the bulbs I got 2for30bux aren’t great and wife don’t like em. But I’m not scared about anything other than possibility of losing a screw😮. And that’s BAD.. but thx for letting me know that Allen fits. But for those reading try the harbor freight flex driver you can get all four off in 2 mins flat. Just turns like a screwdriver while you guide the flex tip..

In order to gain access like I needed to everything had to come off. The column cover actually locks into the cover on the back of the steering wheel and it doesn't move back enough to snap apart.

@@bradsautomotiveandmarinellc I changing out my ignition now as I'm typing this on my 2016 jeep Wrangler Rubicon JK. The steering wheel does not need to come out. I pulled the upper and lower steering covers and I can get access to the ignition switch very easily. FYI. Again, it may be different with your 2017 but I'm sure jeep has learn to make it all common on the JK