Відео

Old Elbow piece won't come out. Nothing in video showing the door section that comes apart to remove and replace with new piece

Useless video! It is not a video about the door handle, and removing it. It is a video about door RELEASE handle. Misleading title, waste of time for me.

Thanks Andy I watched several videos and yours was more detail I can take my door panel off now thank you partner LD😅😊

Is this 2jz swapped?

I could use the part number of what broke. After 20 years, mine has given up the ghost!

That piece you will put in the door angle. How do you get out that piece?

How did you get out the piece that broke off

Yeah pin is a monster to get out!

Here I am 12 years later with my own single turbo Mazda. Hashira Yorokobi

Why didn't you show how the latch came out? It's a chaet for me.

This is the only video that describes how to get the door panel off. Thanks! Given that the '03 model is getting old, the window switches are getting brittle and breaking. Replacing them requires removing the panel. It would be great to see how that replacement is done.

A little suspicious on how the cast latch “just” came out?

Andy (and the others who added to the procedure below): Thanks! I'm sure I could have figured it out but having this "guide" saved me a bunch of time and likely cussing when I missed that ONE Torx screw that I would've missed. ;) For anyone about to embark on this repair, the MB part # for the latch spindle is: A 230 766 0067

Genuine Mercedes Interior Door Pull Handle Support SKU: 1432303-MB2307660067 from AutohausAZ around $21.12

Alabama has won 2 more nattys since and looks like more to come. Roll Tide!

how do you get the spindel out? i cant remove the broken piece

Junk

Two tone Rollie while fixing like a boss

This is sad and awfully common on such an expensive car. I am doing one now on a 2011 SL550. Waiting for Mercedes to get the part in for me.

After spending an afternoon completing this task these are my tips. Be very careful not to scratch the aluminum door cover when removing or installing the screws. The "shark teeth" part holding the small panel near the mirror can be opened by pinching it with needle nose pliers. Remove the door panel by lifting and pulling away. A long bungee cord hooked on the bottom outside of the door and then to the panel relieves pressure on the wires. Gently pry the broken spindle up and out of the door handle using a screw driver. The panel must be orientated directly toward the door before hooking it into the upper groove parallel to the window. Be careful with the door lock button as it can easily pop out of its holder. Ensure the door handle works before replacing the trim etc. Broken trim pins can be repaired quickly with a glue gun. While in there you might as well tighten any screws you can reach. As usual, it's easy to take door panels apart but putting them back together; not so much.

After doing everything you said, just grab the inside handle that you use to shut the door from inside, and quickly pull up and out, hard, and it pops right off. No crowbar needed. Working on one now, like to have never figured it out.

Same part on ours broke. Part number please!

Andy, How did you remove the inside latch so that you could remove the broken spindle?

hey Andy, what's the part number for part that broke. I have the same problem and I want to have all the parts before I take apart the door. thanks

I accidentally killed my sisters cat

The car now has a 20 b with 80mm turbo alcohol only it is in the pic there my avatar.

Stock ports, unbreakable seals, dowel pinned

so sick

Where you buy that exhaust Home Depot sounds like a lawn mower. Or rotary I mean.

Camera's mounted sturdy lol

Stock rotors, apex and housing? ported?

I'm weary of these Ballistic Lithium Batteries. I emailed Ballistic asking if these batteries had a built in Power Circuit board or PCB as the first generation didn't have the balance port jack and the second generation has a balance port jack. I got no response. These batteries are different than Laptop batteries but still require a different charging system. Correct me if I am wrong but I have yet to see a motorcycle or Car other than an electric car such as an example the Volt or the Tesla that can properly charge these batteries. The problem lies in that the balance charge jack is USELESS if its not used CONTINUOUSLY for charging the battery with the special charger. The balance port jack is an indication that these batteries do not have a built in PCB. The PCB not only regulates the charging of these batteries cell by cell but also regulates the current draw. The PCB charges each cell individually and shuts down each one when it reaches its top voltage, preventing overcharging damaging the cells and or fire. Your cars or bikes charging system doesn't do that. When the PCB does this, your battery won't act like a regular lead acid car battery. Also,when you start a bike, a big bike or car it pulls a lot of amps. To manufacture a PCB that can handle such a load isn't easy in a small footprint (size). So these LifePo4 cells are connected directly to the batteries terminal posts (dangerous) and charged by the bikes regular charging system. That's probably ok on a small scooter that charges at maybe an amp, ok on a race bike or car that doesn't have a charging system and runs off the battery or isn't used on a daily basis, but not ok on todays big bike or car that come with 130 plus amp alternators to power all of todays hi tech auto add on's. Furthermore, todays cars and I will guess new bikes with fuel injected engines won't run without a battery. Disconnect your cars battery terminal while your engine is running, it will shut off after a few minutes. The battery acts as a capacitor. It needs a battery weather its dead or alive to absorb the loads, I don't see how a LifePO4 can do this with a PCB after its been fully charged and the PCB stops all charging to the battery. Furthermore, I called Ballistics and asked about the problem some have had when tilting the battery and getting no power but tilted back power resumes and he claims he never heard of any such problems but there are video's on UA-cam showing just that. Seems these cells are not soldered together? So, I wouldn't advise running these on anything that can charge it at over 3 or 4 amps, unless you want to risk it possibly catching fire and damaging your bike. Until a battery comes out with a built in PCB that is designed around todays vehicles charging system or a vehicle is designed to operate on a lithium battery you are running a risk. Yes LifePO4 are less dangerous than the lithium batteries in your laptop but they STILL require sophisticated charging systems and monitoring. There are several video's here on UA-cam showing LifePo4 batteries catching on fire when overcharged. Just FYI, we use these in our model airplanes, we charge them via the charge balance jack or directly. The planes motor controller regulates the batteries output. We have had these go up in smoke when someone has charged them to quickly and every time it has been when it was charged directly and not thru the PCB. The PCB takes longer to charge as its current is controlled. Your Laptops battery and even your cell phones battery has a mini PCB circuit, your lithium power tools do to. They disconnect your charger once the battery reaches 100%. Ballistics sites claim their batteries are not just a bunch of cells soldered together and sealed in shrink wrap, no, they are a bunch of LifePO4 cells in a fancy plastic case obviously not soldered together as some have found. You will be better off and safer by getting a new dry shipped AGM (absorbed glass material) battery that comes with its acid pack, and fill it yourself that way you know its fresh and hasn't sat on the shelf for 6 months or a year. Just a word of caution!

5.1 to 60 stock to be exact, depends on driver tho

Great video - What apex seals are you running to be able to handle 29psi? I just popped my engine (stock seals) and am in the process of rebuilding. I'd like to run more than 15psi. Thanks

I meant cushion. You're an idiot if you couldn't see that.

well played ! psi does mean shit especially when you got a little 1000kg rx-7

My car only has stock port holes :) I can get a 11.2 @ 120 with street tyres. I also have over 500,000 original engine and rearend miles. Had this car since 1994. Still quickest street rotary around, except this dune buggy with a injected 13B, its hella quick

I have one of these in my motorcycle. Great way to save weight.

condensation I would hope, if its fuel you shouldn't be driving the vehicle at all until its fixed. Besides if it was fuel I doubt it would have went that fast that quick.

Make a video where there is crazy crazy shakiness!

Where did you get that dash gauge setup?

so is it just running so rich when u get on it its flooding out the exhaust or was that just condensation??

Beautiful car man, I wish I could still have my FC. california smog laws suck!

flutter noise reminds me of initial d

Dude you are smokin crack @Jozey

How these batteries going update bid soon? My main concern is draining them from lack of use for a week

MrShelby, I wouldn't be bragging that your FC only makes 380hp at 24psi hahahaha find a new tuner/set up and I call b.s. on weighing 21xxlbs

A nice 2nd gen FC like mine only weights 2138 lbs...24 PSI 380 HP

With a name like that it sure does.

a sequentil gearbox with straight cut teeths should fix the time dogbox is a good choice rx-7 stock gearboxes is shit!