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Thank you. Scott

"probably mixing oil and water "...Check to see if there is water in the oil....if there is and the oil pump picks up the water you will likely need a new crank and bottom end bearings " I have to put new head gasket probably"...Could be, but it could also be the cylinder sleeves (I needed to replace them on mine..before I started the you tube thing.) JD in the era had a problem with the coolant cavitation and it (over time) wore the sleeve until they started to leak coolant into the oil pan. "Where can I find data about this work" ...A good manual is worth its weight in gold. "when i start the motor, first 30sec it runs only on 3 cylinders, then on 4,"... It could be many things, the head gasket as you already suspect (lowering the compression) Or just plan low compression from normal wear and tear, valves or rings wore injectors (bad spray pattern)I think I would check compression before I start tearing it apart.And perhaps test to see which cylinder is causing the miss, if you can find the problem cylinder I would switch injector to see if the miss moves which would tell you if it is just a injector. Hope this helps you a little. Scott

@@myoldtractorshed Thank you very much. Today I disconnected first injector and started tractor to see if in this one is problem. Tractor worked on 3 cilinders and black smoke was coming out, but when I connected the injector smoke was white and increased a lot. I suspected on head gasket because of this white smoke and loss of power, but maybe it is only bad injector and termostat..? Oil is very liquid and see trough, but no signs of water or antifreeze in it, maybe it is only worn out. This tractor needs good detection before tearing apart.

Sorry, I am in Canada. No idea were you would find those parts.

Sorry, no I don't. Thanks for watching.

It has been some time since I did that but I think it was just an open end wrench

Love the content! Thanks keep up the great work

And another question, do you still know how thick the gasket you made is? Because if i see this right the thickness of the gasket also has an impact on the pressure on the bearing...

Sorry for the slow reply, I have not logged in here in some time. "Do you know where you 710 was fabricated?," Mannheim Germany I am in Canada to my knowledge they were never imported into the USA which is why it is so hard for me to get parts

If I remember correct it was .008in, If you need to know for sure I will try and re-find it in the book.

Thank you, I knew it had something to do with the three point hitch but your info is very usefull. Scott

Thank you. Scott

Don't feel bad telling me I have made a mistake, so much better to learn it now that after I did real damage. The good news is I am working on this VERY slowly and I still have the old one and have not even looked at putting oil in yet. Thank you so much for all the info Scott

@@myoldtractorshed When you put the oil in, I suggest you use STOU or UTTO 15W40 for both the lifter and the transmission, so that in case the lifter leaks it will not damage the transmission oil. My 818 broke in the mid 80s for that reason, it had SAE 20 in the elevator and SAE 90 in the gearbox and the mix foamed and then the right axle bearing seized, they kept the old seal because it seemed to be fine but it always leaked a few drops each month SAE grades for gearboxes are different from SAE grades for engines, the lower viscosity allowed for SAE 90 gear oil is about the higher viscosity allowed for SAE 40 engine oil, hte main difference is that gearbox oil has special additives for that use, both STOU or UTTO 15W40 are perfect replacements for SAE 90 and have all the additives needed for gearboxes. STOU has also additives for engines too and can be used as the only oil in the whole tractor but some people don't like to put STOU in their tractor engines because it has friction modifier additives for oil-immersed clutches and brakes, the same people don't like ATF on the power steering of their cars for the same reason, even if most manufacturers put ATF in their power steerings...

@@ruben_balea Thank you for all the very good info I am printer your comment to make sure I don't lose it. I don't know If I will be working on this old tractor this winter or not (long story for another time) but If I do I will take your advice on this oil to use. Thank you. Scott

Thank you.

If I find two of them I will share...LOL. I am also looking for the correct seat. I was lucky when I bought the 510 it had the correct base part, but not the seat. At the moment the closest one I have found is this one. The proper one has a two part cushion in the center section not one piece like the one shown on Amazon www.amazon.ca/3-Piece-Replacement-Cushion-CDSS550YE-Tractor/dp/B07PCGZTYR/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2K892W8V6R27A&keywords=john%2Bdeere%2Bseat%2Breplacement&qid=1697835173&sprefix=John%2Bdeere%2Bseat%2Caps%2C1611&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d0e27fc4-6417-4b26-97cb-f959a9930752&th=1 I will likely not buy it from Amazon but I just used this link so you can see it. Scott

Thank you.

In my earlier years I did a lot of engine work but very little transmission work so it was a little hard for me to work out all these preload and backlash settings, but I am getting there.

I thought mine were copper but they are not. I just went and took one off and checked it with a magnet and it is steel. Likely a soft steel of some sort. But I guess you could try copper, not a hard thing to change.You could also try to smooth out the ends of the fuel line with a block of wood and some emery cloth just make for damn sure you clean it well when you are done.I am sure this number is obsolete but this is the JD part number for those sealing washers. T 20055 T Scott

Another thought, those washers are thicker than a normal washer so I think they are supposed to compress some, we likey can't reuse them too many times, yours may just have outlived their life. I would take one of the banjo bolts to the dealer and just get new ones. I am 99% sure that it is the same pump as the JD2020 so the dealer should have no trouble getting new ones. You will need 8 of them.

@@myoldtractorshed Hi I have new ones I buy from John deere as I said and still leaking I'll try clean up see if I can get them to work

Sorry, no

I am on Google maps and dame no straight line from Campbellville to Oakville...LOL 24ish km in the cold sound like something I would do...for a tractor. Thanks for watching. Scott

I haven't adjusted mine yet but I'm sure I will get to that..likely this winter. (thanks for letting me know the first upload was cut off) Scott

No, Sorry I don't

@@myoldtractorshed ok thanks 😊

Germany you kan still get all the stuff new I’ll see if I can find the site

"Why did you change ring gear as I call it?"..The crown and pinion gears are a matched set. "Nice to see you enjoy your videos" Thank you, I am glad you enjoy them. Scott

@@myoldtractorshed Ic thanks Scott do you know of a good seat for a 510 710?? Thanks

@@jamesmorrison1884I haven't spent much time looking lately, but a while back I was looking and the closest I found to the original is this style, it is for sale in several locations. www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-3020_Seat-Cushion-Set_JD5678.html

On the left side of the trans, about 4 inches up from bottom near the back of the trans, you will likely need to look under the running board. There is a plug that needs an allen wrench, I believe this is the upper level. Make sure you add the oil to the trans. not the hydraulic they are separate on this tractor. Scott

@@myoldtractorshed thank you very much, and then I guess the backend filler is through the dipstick hole at the back of the tractor ?

@@tobywalker2904 No, that is the hydraulic, there is a plastic housing under the rock shaft cover. I think the trans filler is in front of the gear shifter, I filled mine while I still had the rock shaft cover off, but I think the filler is forward of the gear shift. You can see that plastic housing in this video ua-cam.com/video/nx-1SEJRvl4/v-deo.html

@@myoldtractorshed so effectively that plastic housing holds all the hydraulic oil ? If so how would you drain that

@@tobywalker2904 Yes, That plastic box holds the hydraulic oil, I could not figure out how to drain it, I think you will need to use some sort of suction thing. In my case I needed to remove the rock shaft housing to remove the axles to change seals so I removed the plastic box, dumped it out and cleaned it but it was a bit of a prick to get it back on, it was almost like it shrank.

Sorry, no.

Have you found pto gears for your 710 tractor?

Thank you.

I had to google the (1966 John Deere Ibeira 717) I have never seen one, I found one photo, yes it looks very much like the 710. Thanks for watching Scott

Thank you. many more videos to come.

"Good video any more coming? "...yes "Yes the rear main seal is confusing"...I machined the housing to fit a normal seal..cheaper, easier and better if I ever need to replace it again. "Are you familiar with adjusting the clutch?" did not try yet but likely will when I get this old girl back together.