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The hard part about those decibels rating is the ones I see differ on how they are taken. Most I've seen rate them at 20' or more away so the ratings can be deceitful. The ratings also don't reflect the quality of the noise as the pitch and rumblings also effect perceived noise. Then there is closed VS open frame. Mine is an open frame which of course is louder than closed frame, but costed a lot less.

Thanks. I hope the video helps. I prefer to use actual car Manu dealer fluid in any of my transmissions. Honda DW-1 in this case. I actually bought it from a local dealer as it surprisingly was less from them than online. I know plenty of people use aftermarket trans fluids, and that may be fine, but I prefer to play it safe and stick with OEM.

Thanks. Good question. I ran #6 Romex from the back feed breaker through the wall below my panel into the crawl space. The Romex is attached under the floor joists and run through a hole I drilled in the brick and cinderblock foundation (lined with pvc pipe to prevent chafing) into a large junction box. Romex is not rated for wet underground use. The box is the brown one mounted to the side of the house. This is wire nutted to four #8 thhn wires in 3/4“ conduit run straight down 18" below grade (per NEC). The conduit comes back up right next to the shed and through the shed siding into the SS2-50P inlet box. Does this answer your question? I tried to be as specific as possible.

@@HowToDoStuf Great!. Thanks!

I've never seen Lucas CVT fluid. I've played it safe and used genuine Nissan fluid. I've heard a number of people recommend Amsoil.

@@HowToDoStuf Amsoil & Lucas are both absolutely best you can get your hands on

I'm not sure why you are saying you have to remove the PS pulley. I replaced mine without doing so with no problem.

The 3300cfm fan keeps the shed temp with the doors closed within about 12 degrees F from the ambient air temp. I am wondering if your shed has enough airflow so that the problem could be the gen is getting cooked? I first tried two 12" exhaust fans, and they couldn't keep the gen from cooking. Also, did you size up the exhaust immediately as it comes out of the gen to help prevent back pressure?

@@HowToDoStuf I’m still in the research phase! Just got blasted by Beryl so making my plans now. Within 12° of ambient air temp is amazing. I’ll definitely make sure to have a huge fan on whatever I end up going with. Down in Houston our air temps get crazy so I might also look into adding a swamp cooler to the mix to get the air cooler.

I see a lot of sheds with small exhaust fans and wonder how they don't cook their gens. Ive only tested my shed with doors closed up to an ambient outside temp of about 90f. At some point there would be no choice but to open the shed up and put a barrel fan on it. A swamp cooler of some kind might be a have to in high outside heat conditions to be able to run it in a shed. In TN we normally only see bad storms in the spring or winter when it's not that hot out.

Thank you. I really am amazed at how well the smokeless features work. I haven't seen anyone else on UA-cam incorporate both a double wall and center air intake, which is a shame because it works fantastic. Of course it doesn't get rid of all smoke, and you still need seasoned wood, but the end result is a huge reduction in smoke and a really nice, hot bed of coals.

Thanks! 👍

Thank you very much!

I just used this same basic method on my daughter's Honda FIT and it works so much better than doing multiple drains and refills, plus replacing the paper fine trans filter in the Altima only makes sense.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. The exhaust fan was running as it is on a thermostat.

@@HowToDoStuf oh ok sorry

Home Depot here carries the Rockwool Safe and Sound

@@HowToDoStuf thanks

👍

I appreciate that. I got a lot of ideas from others on UA-cam and just want to give some back that will hopefully help give other people ideas they can use. Putting the electrical and natural gas connections in the shed are without a doubt the best updates I've done. They make it so handy that I can just leave the gen connected. ua-cam.com/video/TIKqynd_0OE/v-deo.htmlsi=ohYRHB75FycYG_3u

Thank you very much. The electrical connection of course is grounded through the house ground as the neutral and ground are not bonded at the gen per NEC. My generator also has a grounding bolt on the front and recommends grounding there also. Although I don't think it is strictly necessary, you can never ground too much. In the event of a lightning strike nearby it just gives another path much closer to the gen for energy to dissipate. Not to mention for the $25 in wire and rod, why not?

Thank you!

Combustibility isn't an issue given that wood combusts at around 540-570 degrees f. Cement board is going to deflect sound not absorb it, plus cement board has very little flexibility if any.

That is incorrect. You can have as many ground rods as you want as long as the neutral and ground are not bonded past the main panel. You can never ground too much. You say it's against code but I am unaware of anything in NEC that says that.

You have got to be kidding me. It isn't hard at all for anyone with some mechanical sense, some decent sockets, and a floor jack. That is a t-total rip off. For that kind of money I should be doing that kind of work.

Thank you. I try to make things as confusing and difficult as possible. 😊

👍. We really enjoy it and the lack of smoke is wonderful

Thank you. I couldn't find a single clear video on this for my Altima when I went to do mine. I'd say it took me maybe 1 1/2 hrs all in including getting the car up, wheel cowl unclipped and pulled back, etc. It's not really a hard job. Make sure you have extra clips on hand because guaranteed some of those buggers will break.

Thank you! Have some extra clips I bought a whole back.

Thank you. I didn't see a torque spec form them so yes I just tightened them down snug.

Interesting idea. I'm wondering if the water causes back pressure on the exhaust. Brick ought to be sturdy enough to be sure. Do you have some kind of sound absorption material in it?

No I don't, and I'm not aware of any code requirement to do so. The interlock on my main panel however of course is a code requirement. I just honestly don't know why this would be needed. The chance of having a fire while I would be actually running on Gen power would be very slim.

You would probably need to order the parts and fluid and take them to a local mechanic specifying exactly what you want done. A Nissan dealer isn't going to do this.

@@HowToDoStuf Thank you for the suggestion. Yes you are absolutely right. No one will touch it.

Thank you very much. The interval for the spark arrestor on my Gen says every 6 months or 100 hours which isn't that often. I however removed the stock spark arrestor which is basically just mesh. I put a mesh screen on the end of my exhaust outside of the shed, and on top of that the exhaust is blowing down now on my concrete paver patio. For my setup it just made sense to get rid of the thing so I don't have to remember to clean it.

That's basically the same thing I'm doing. I just use the trans heater hose. It flushes through the entire loop.

I installed this after we had a very rare tornado nearby and lost power for 4 days. In the 2 1/2 years since we've only had our power out once for about 5 hours. We get brown-outs once or twice a month, but they are short lived the longest having lasted no more than about 45 min. So for me this has ended up being more of an insurance type item. But that's OK with me as I know it's there if I need it. Funny part is when I did this I told my wife I was ensuring that our neighborhood would have hardly any outages.

Thank you. I did go back and shorten the cord. I also buried a natural gas line and put a riser into the shed so now my natural gas hookup and power hookups are both in the shed. I plan on doing a follow up video of this.

Wow! I'm impressed. Good job!@@HowToDoStuf

Thanks for the positive feedback. I appreciate it. 😁

Thank you. I really like the Corten steel edging. The pebbles on top of the concrete stay put much better after having sprayed them with the 3/1 water/titebond wood glue mix

International fuel gas code section 404.12 says underground piping shall be installed a minimum of 12", except as provided in 404.12.1 which specifies only 8" if it's under a location that is not susceptible to physical damage. My city uses the IFGC. I also did not put the gas line under the fire pit. I routed it around the pit.

Well my videos aren't anything to write home about but thanks. I agree that I could use work in the SEO area. I'm not sure however that I'm particularly focused on monitizing as Im not the type that is going to make a side profession out of UA-cam videos. I appreciate the time some people put into how to videos and want to give back. I just uploaded the entire playlist of my patio fire pit build not but a few days ago.

@@HowToDoStuf Uploading video is ok but video SEO should be done if you want I will SEO your video so even if you don't want monetization you will get the views you want

Thank you. I'm not a huge fan of the plastic sheds but if you don't have the time or tools/experience to build one, they can work just fine. The main problems I see with them are lack of sound absorption, not very sturdy, and most I've seen have way too small/low cfm exhaust fans. With the LP Smart side I used, a real shed should handily outlast plastic.

Thank you 😁

In order to use a high cfm exhaust fan with a baffle, it would have to be a big baffle as the exhaust fan I have is 20". Surprisingly I still don't get that much more sound from the exhaust fan side. I also am about 1/2 acre from the house behind me, so a little louder on that side really doesn't matter. If I had a house close behind me I may have looked at doing an exhaust baffle also.

Oh that's no fun. Much better to work on a car at home in the garage than to be stuck!

@@HowToDoStuf but thank you brotha

@@HowToDoStufmy shit just exploded after I hit a flooded street. Hopefully I could replace it and pray it still works

Thank you! My tensioner started to fall apart 😂 so Ima do mine today

Just make sure you do pull back the wheel cowl. It makes this so much easier.

Thank you. I have a link to the exhaust fan. Both fans are simply plugged into 120v outlets on the gen. The exhaust fan is obviously crucial as without it the gen is likely to become a melted pile of goo. The intake fan is just a high velocity 20" floor fan that I put there for kicks and grins. It's not necessary but I like the idea of active intake airflow. I probably should test running it without the intake fan to see if it makes any difference as the exhaust fan is way more powerful than the intake fan.

​@@HowToDoStufthanks for the information. I wonder why you need insulation foam board. You intend to prevent the generator from getting too cold or too hot? I would think just the Rockwood sound deafening would be enough? In the winter the generator would generate heat itself keep the shed warm. In the summer you want the shed to be cool don't want the heat to be trapped inside the shed?

@@HeartCannotFawn I needed something to keep the Rockwool in place, and given that lumber was priced stupidly high when I built the shed, foam board was a much cheaper alternative to 1/4" plywood. Plus, the foam board isn't going to hurt sound absorption and may be helping a bit. Rockwool is insulation. My house built in the 1960s has Rockwool insulation in the walls. You can buy sound absorbing mats and foam that are not insulation, but they cost a whole lot more. Rockwool is simply insulation that is also good at sound absorption, is readily available, and isn't very expensive. The issue isn't heat or cold. If you put a generator in a plain enclosure you would still need a lot of airflow to remove heat.

I don't have an ATV so I'm not familiar with that. I'll take a look at that. The decibel rating I'm reading with the shed is a drastic improvement over just the generator. I'n my bedroom on the back of our house where the gen shed is, I can barely hear the gen over the cicadas this time of year.

The fill bolt should be open with the car idling and level. The trans fluid needs to be within the specified temp range also. If it barely drips, fluid level is full.

Well thank you very much. I'm not sure it's the "best", but it really works great for me and does what I built it to do.

Hurricanes are sure no joke. When my dad was alive he lived in SE Florida his area got creamed some years back. I hope my video does help you. That is what I made it for.

The diagram of the design drive.google.com/file/d/1l6cVFaS25-sYfZJzDvJsKJl0E582BdZV/view?usp=drivesdk

I'm afraid I'm not quite understanding your suggestions. I don't understand the couch cushions part either. There is no way to get 30db when ambient noise is over 40db. That simply isn't possible. I'm using a cheap sound meter so I can't really verify the db numbers. The numbers make more sense when you compare them to ambient sound level, un-muffled generator sound level, etc which is what I tried to do in the video.

Thank you!