Відео

@@philliphall5198 very light duty for sure

@@0215gabriel thank you.

Also did the new pump make that noise? Ty for the video.

Good morning, thank you for commenting. This bike had been sitting for some time, the client knew the fuel pump was defective when he dropped it off. It was leaking badly and not priming well. That noise you heard is 100 percent the fuel struggling to prime. The pump will often struggle like that with a low battery so it’s good to confirm that the battery is in good working order before changing the pump. The customer supplied a pump in this case because it was leaking badly. If the battery is good as it is on yours and it’s making that noise it is most likely a weak pump. If you are having issues with just one cylinder i would be looking at the carburetor for that cylinder. Could be simply a clogged pilot jet. You’ll see that at low rpm. Clean the main jet and emulsion tube also while you are in there and check the float height . Also look for any air leaks, cracked hoses or hose clamps not seating properly. Good luck and thank you for watching.

​@OVVMtoddspurrell Thank you very much. I changed the sparkplug on that cylinder and plan on changing the coil next if needed. The carburetor boots on all 4 cylinders look like they could use a swap, but I would like to try the coil first. Bike runs great when it's cold but when it gets hot I'm thinking the coil craps out, and wet fouls the plug making it worse. I would actually love to take the carbs out, clean them and replace the boots. But I'd rather ride haha. Thank you again for responding.

@@611racing you could try swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil to the other cylinder, then you eliminate a carb issue if the #1 cylinder improves. If the boots are really bad you could try spraying around them while the bike is idling and see if the rpm changes. Eliminate an air leak.

@@ryanmoriarity5913 thank you, and thanks for watching

@@bigsonslawncare thanks, you would probably benefit from a little MIG PAK. A little more control than a stick welder. Good luck with your practice and thanks for watching

@@OVVMtoddspurrell Ok cool👍🏾

@@MrNedbe thank you for watching. I’m trying to grow my channel so I appreciate it. I would love to see yours when you’re done. Be fair warned, parts for that bike are no longer cheap. Good luck, Todd

@@zandig666 That’s awesome! Thanks for watching

@@mikewatts1450 The old LC 500’s with YPVS, nice

@@mikewatts1450 they are becoming more difficult to come by.

@@OVVMtoddspurrell killed off by the four stroke 🥺👍! And emission laws 😪!

@@OVVMtoddspurrell I love too find a Kawasaki Water Buffalo LOL But people are probably still riding them 👍!!

@@mikewatts1450 yes sir, they do smoke, but they are so much fun to ride. Riding experience like no other. I’ll be do more videos of this bike soon. Like and subscribe if you would like to see more. Thank you for watching and your comments, Todd

@@mikewatts1450 the water buffalo was the Suzuki GT750. A lot of people mistake them for the Vintage triple Kawasaki H2 750 widow maker. Very hard to come by and when you see them they are top dollar. Regrettably I sold my Gt750 triple Suzuki water buffalo. I do still see a few of them come up for sale sometimes but they are usually beat and very expensive.

@@infinitiguy7840 good morning, the silicone is just automotive RVT from Canadian Tire. Most auto parts stores will carry it. I’m actually going to have to revise this video. That Stator wasn’t producing the required voltage and ended up failing. My original assumption of 14 volts at the battery was correct. This system was charging but not enough to maintain the battery. I just ordered new parts from the dealer this time. I paid 4x more but hopefully they will be better quality. The place where I bought the defective parts only offered a 20% return. After some negotiation they gave a 40% return. Not great but better than nothing. I hope you have better luck with your replacement parts than I did. Todd

It’s really humid here so I gave my paint about 3 days to fully cure. The paint stuck on really good but is starting to rub off in some of the heavier use sections. Tear down and assembly took me several hours but I’m sure I could do it quicker now that I’ve done it once. There’s a few springs in there that you really should be cautious with so I strongly suggest you just take your time with it. Also some of the screws are really cheap and can easily strip your plastic so another strong suggestion is to use a good set of screw drivers that fit well so you can keep downward pressure on them while extracting. You’re just asking for trouble if you use the keys that came with the kit. The upper rail where you could mount a scope is tricky to take off without spinning the screw inserts. They are slotted to lock in place but mine spun on me so I had to pry it apart, extract the screws and glue the inserts back in place. Real pain in the ass. Good luck and I hope my tips help you. Todd

@@OVVMtoddspurrell very helpful! Thank you very much!

@OVVMtoddspurrell btw I did it, watched the complete teardown vid by cguntnutz which was super helpful. It's been sitting and curing for 2 days now. The issue is that with the pink underneath, the tiniest scratch shows right through. But I'll deal with it. It's not exactly a combat rifle so I'm not worried about being spotted lol

@@ILikeCatsMoreThanILikeYou I’m glad to hear it worked out for you. Cheers

Hi Ron, Yes it would be very easy to add a suppressor to the GSG-16 but they are highly illegal here where I live and the gun is actually very quiet the way it is.

Thank you!

Wow, thank you very much!

​@@OVVMtoddspurrell Forgot to mention the shop music kicked a$$, too.

@@Fmontes good shop tunes inspire nice results. Thank you

Hi, that bike is a 1998 Thanks for watching, Todd

Good morning. I’m really glad I was able to help you out. Good luck today. I hope it all works out for you. Cheers, Todd

70 years old? Oh probably lol

@@OVVMtoddspurrell Ha Ha

Thank you for your comment. I bet you miss it. They really are cool little bikes

I just the sold the red one (75) and the other one (74) is custom bike I built for my wife.

Thanks for responding I'm just trying to find some wiring Diagram or Knowledge about the main power and spark wiring

All I have at the moment is the wiring coming out of the stator is all

@@DonavinSmith-xn8oe I could send you a few pictures of the wiring if that helps. I actually just took the motor out of that bike so it will be easy to see. I have a few videos on my channel of those bikes be built. You might see some of the wiring in there also. What country do you live in?

I live in Florida but I will definitely check out the videos I can send you a personal message if you won't mind send me some more pictures

Hi Mike, for this repair I used a MIG welder. Metal Inert Gas with solid wire spool. Gas metal arc welding argon and carbon dioxide mix Ar/Co2. 75% Argon and 25% Co2, but as I showed in the video I just butt welded the frame back together which is not enough for this thin frame to handle the stress so I also sandwiched the frame with some angled steel for added strength. Unless you are asking about the cutting torch I’m using in the video? That’s a Plasma cutter. I hope this helps thanks for watching, Todd

@@OVVMtoddspurrell Hi Todd. Thanks so much for the reply. I don't have much welding experience, I have a Yeswelder ACR 205SD with 7018 3/32 rod. I was thinking of welding the crack and both sides of the bracket that covers the crack along with fabricating additional support as you did. My concern is, do you think that an Arc welder would blow holes in the poor quality metal even on the correct Amps? Thanks again.

@@mrmike7919 Hi Mike, You should be able to stick weld it with the amps low. It will be a bit messier but you can clean it up after. If you are using a stick welder just do short little jabs to limit the chances of burning through and you should be ok. You may need to grind your welds down flush in order to get the plates to sit flush against the frame. It’s nice if you can utilize a few holes that are already there if you can, then just drill a few more in and you’re good to go. A word of caution, beware of the fuel tank and fuel line. I covered mine in a fireproof blanket before welding near it.

@@OVVMtoddspurrell Thank you, Sir. You have been very helpful, I've subscribed. Bests. Mike

@@mrmike7919 thank you! I appreciate that, and best of luck. Todd

They really should recall them.

It has inner tubes in both wheels

Excellent, thank you for letting me know. Wasn’t sure what that was.

Thanks, yes these sound really nice. Thank you for watching

This is a 2020 model which was the last year they made the Scrambler Cafe Racer.

Hi, These air/oil cooled motors do throw off above average amounts of heat which the rider can feel on their inner thighs when stopped for extended periods of time. While riding it feels perfectly fine though. As far as the timing belt cover itself goes, I never really felt around that area after the engine was up to temperature. I’ll fire it up this weekend and take a few temperature readings and let you know. How’s that? Thank you for watching. I’ll be posting more videos on this bike soon. Like and subscribe if you wish to check them out. Todd

Hi David, thank you for watching and leaving your comment. May I ask what you had in mind by a walk around video? I did a quick walk around at the end of the video but are you suggesting I walk around a little slower and capture more of the bikes features while talking a bit about them? The reason I ask is it’s my wife’s bike and in my next video I’ll be interviewing her to get her thoughts on this beautiful bike. I’ll be getting some drone footage of her putting this Ducati through its paces. I’ll try and include a more detailed walk around for you in my next video. Please like and subscribe so you don’t miss it. Thanks again, Todd

Sorry didnt stay to the end, Yeah just a walk around showing the bike and the colors and what wheels you have.@@OVVMtoddspurrell

You won’t be disappointed. I’m actually putting this one up for sale along with two XL-350 Scramblers. If you are interested let me know

Thanks for your reply. Where are you located?

@@jphickory522 I’m in Ontario Canada

Ok thanks. I live in Missouri, USA. Thanks for heads-up on the sale but I’ll look for one closer.

@@jphickory522 np, don’t blame you, that is very far from here.

Hi JP, This old bike is actually amazing. It usually fires right up on the first kick. So easy and comfortable to ride. Very forgiving with the clutch, you pretty much let it out and off you go. I’ve used it to teach many new riders to ride. I don’t know that it’s actually lower than later modes or if the rear springs are starting to get a bit soft over the years. The bike feels light and easy to flick around or ride through technical trails. It’s such a tough little bike. Yes it is metal tank. Thank you for watching, Todd

Thank you JP. We really enjoy our farm. As for the bike, it’s a lot of fun to ride. The spark plug set up is a colour tune system that allows you to see into the combustion chamber through a glass spark plug. The principle is that the colour of the combustion flame varies in colour as the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) gets richer or leaner. The ideal ratio is a 14.7:1 Stoichiometric condition 1 gram of fuel to 14.7 grams of air which gives you a nice Bunsen Burner Blue Flame. The tool allows you to adjust your mixture to achieve that ratio. It does take some practice to get use to. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching and please subscribe if you enjoyed this content. Todd

Todd, thanks. Do you have a part number or product name for that spark plug used for tuning? I was able to buy a 1980 xr200 but it’s not running. It has spark but guessing the carb needs going through.

@@jphickory522 Hi JP, nice to hear back from you. Congratulations on the purchase of your XR-200. I’ll get you the part number for that tool when I go into my shop this week. It’s a nice tool to have for fine tuning but to be clear it’s certainly not a miracle tool. For it to work properly the bike has to be already running and completely warmed up. It may actually be a waste of money to purchase if you only have one bike. The carburetor on that bike is rather difficult to remove so it may get frustrating if you have to do it more than once. The carburetor kit is fairly inexpensive for it so I highly recommend getting one. Do a good ultrasonic cleaning on it and make sure all the jets are unclogged. In my case I had to also replace the mixture screw at the bottom. You’ll need a very short common screw driver to make the mixture adjustment. Make sure the air filter is clean and that there are no air leaks. Also make sure the fuel tank or fuel supply for testing is super clean. I hope this helps, Todd

@@jphickory522 It’s called a Colour Tune. Made by Gunson.

We had a blast

Thank you for your comments about your bikes

Bought my 77 rd in 82 for 6 or $700 Great days !!! Guys had daytonas, thumpers were big guys wheeliing Ended up going to cb 750 then fz 750 Shoulda kept the rd tho 😂😂😂

Hi Mike, This project is far from complete. The exhaust is one of many things left to do. The project is being done in stages. I didn’t even expect the bike run after sitting for so many years. I was very surprised that it had such good compression but usually the crank seals dry up and leak causing a lean condition. I just wanted to see if it would fire up and go through the gears once to check on the condition of the clutch and transmission before a complete tear down. At that point the exhausts will come off so I can pressure test the crankcase. I have nice set of EGT sensors to weld into the exhaust and then I’ll powder coat over the welded bungs with a nice high temperature flexible powder I’ve been experimenting with on snowmobile chambers with amazing results. So I didn’t bother hitting them with a high temp spray bomb. The frame looks like crap also so when I pull the motor out I’ll powder coat the frame at that time. The old uni-filters that where on it when I got it where completely eaten away by mice and there was literally no foam left on them at all. Just the two discs left laying there. I installed a high flow K&N filter with Y-Boot and dual stage reeds with spacer blocks. I later removed the blocks as they just ended up causing bigger problems. Once I tear the motor down I will most likely open up the intakes to accept a set of V-force cages. I have a new kevlar clutch and springs to install among other things. Like and subscribe if you interested in seeing the progress. Thanks for watching, Todd

@@OVVMtoddspurrell I Loved watching it mate it sounds like you’ve got everything in place look forward to seeing the end result sounds like you know exactly what you’re doing should be a proper weapon when you’re finished Big love from the UK 🇬🇧

They are called Factory Race Products. Don’t think they make them anymore.

@@OVVMtoddspurrell There were a few people making expansions in the UK back in the 70’s and 80’s I had a set of Terry Beckett pipes on an X7 and they were great. Same can be said for Microns which performed well, sounded amazing and looked great in chrome. I’ve been restoring an 1978 X7 on and off for a while and each time I see a clip like yours it gives me inspiration 😊

So glad to hear that. I tinker with a lot of bikes but I really love my 2 strokes. I’m going to be pulling these pipes off this bike over the next few months as I have a new set of EGT’s to install in them. I’ll refinish them in a flexible high temp powder coat. I’ll be sure to capture the process. I need to finish off a motor modification I’m doing I’m doing on a different bike first though. I’d love to see the progress on yours. Cheers, Todd

@@OVVMtoddspurrell Looking forward to the powder coat process and your future posts on all things 2 stroke😉 I may have to start a channel and post some X7 restoration related stuff but a bit beyond my skill set at the moment 🤣

@@kevowski I’d love to see your progress on your Suzuki 2 stroke. I had a GT-750 triple LC. Pretty cool bikes. If I can answer any of your questions you can reach on a page I just started. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100089670818103&mibextid=LQQJ4d

Both very good question’s. The reeds make a difference for a few reasons. The main advantage over the stock steel reeds is that steel ones chip and crack. When this happens the debris gets sucked into the motor and gets chewed up. If the Boyesen reeds get sucked into the combustion chamber chances are the damage won’t be as severe. Reeds spend their time constantly flexing so they won’t last forever. The dual stages reeds give a much quicker throttle response over the stock reeds and you can eliminate the rev plate. As far as the spacer blocks go, they increase more crankcase volume to a modified motor. I assumed that the motor on this bike was ported because of the performance pipes and filter so I added the spacers. I ended up removing them because the bike responded poorly. It turned out that this motor wasn’t heavily modified after all. It ran way better without the spacers. I hope this answered your questions. Todd

Thank you. Still a work in progress

I own a 76 400

That is a bummer

I was really disappointed when this happened, especially on a machine that wasn’t very old. I needed it fixed fast so I just did it myself. New frame would be nice so long as that area is re-enforced. Otherwise the problem may just re-occur again. It is a known design flaw in that model. I believe they sell a kit to patch it.

Same problem same fix. Thanks