Відео

Thanks for your comment Suthat.

Thanks for your comment Cale. As far as I know turtles can eat any water plant, including duckweed, although duckweed is not very convenient due to its rapid growth and it's ability to suffocate filters and block pumps.

Got it!! Have a nice day!

Thanks for your comment @balasubramanian2188.

Thanks for your comment TheBrickHouse.

Thanks for your comment McSpain.

Thanks for leaving a comment MusicAddicted.

And thank you for leaving a comment.

Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can get a flight 😂😂😂😂

Probably it will spread, but you loose nothing trying. Hope for the best.

@@RODsDIY Yes, thanks for the video :D

Ahí te contesto.

Tengo otro canal (BackyardArt) donde tengo la mayoría de estos videos en español, por si prefieres ese idioma. La otra respuesta es de ese canal.

@@RODsDIY aaaaa entiendo, lo que pasa es que me gustó este porque yo trabajo en gasfiteria, entonces hay algunos tips que están bastante interesantes. Tengo la suerte de saber inglés, entonces no tengo problema en entenderle, por eso le preguntaba del idioma, respetuosamente, creo que se pierde un poco su conocimiento al estar sólo disponible en inglés. No me fijé si tiene subtítulos, espero que sí.

I'm not familiar with the I5, but it's mechanisms are probably very similar to others. If you trust your fingers are skillful, maybe you should do some experimenting.

Great contribution. Thanks. I was wondering what keyboard I could use when skin diving 🤣🤣🤣

These membrane keyboards like that Dell are absolute battle tanks, you dont need to spend a fortune on a mechanical. You can restore worn out letters and symbols with some creativity. Just use white nail paint in this case and use paper or something where you can use it as a "graffiti" mold. Also spray can paint can work too. Your probably have used bad quality membrane ones, these tend to get their keys erased pretty fast. Also their plastic is pretty bad. The typical generic keyboard mouse combo of some prebuilts.

Thanks for your comment@@LtCommanderTato . I'm pretty sure Can paint Can work 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thanks for your comment Sarah and good luck with sealing those windows.

Could it be dirt between the lens barrels or a software issue?

@RODsDIY i think its a software issue, when i was recording and suddenly its stuck. still 0:00 and not recording, right now the screen looks its doesn't turn on anymore

@@seraphhine In that case the procedure I show here wont help you. You should take it to a camera service for them to check.

You have to check with the manufacturer where you live.

If the lens barrel tries to extend, jerks and bounces back, that's a sign of something blocking the lens, most usually dirt. For this my suggestions might work. However, if it does not jerk at all, then most probably it's a software or electric issue, and for that you have to take it to a camera service.

If you need to cut perfect circles you can use something like this: ua-cam.com/video/tYtYsgO3oLs/v-deo.html But if you need to cut irregular curves , I believe, your best option is to follow a template with a scoring knife to create a path so you can use another tool with less risk of it running away. To go deeper and finish the job some people have suggested a hand saw, going slow and carefully, with the highest teeth per inch saw you can get (>32). If you can, a better option might be a Dremel with a cutting disc, but its difficult to get it around circles.

@RODsDIY can we use jigsaw for circles

@@ArtBuddyIndian If you read other comments here you'll see some people say they have used jigsaws without issues. In any case, as I said, I would suggest making a path previously with a scoring knife as it's difficult to get a jigsaw or handsaw to make a regular path, and you might end up having to do a lot of sanding.

In my experience with copper and brass, there is no visible difference in slow or fast cooling, except that you can move on quicker with quenching.

I have never cut shapes in acrylic - like letters or numbers - so I can't give you an experience based response. I would suggest first making a path for the cut following a template with a scoring knife, and once you complete the whole circuit move over to another tool like a Dremel with a cutting wheel or a fine teeth hand saw. Always practice first on waste material to see how you can get round corners without cracking the plastic.

@@RODsDIY thanks! i will try.

Some people say they have used different saws for similar thicknesses without any issue, but my experience with anything with teeth is not good. In any case the larger amount of teeth per inch should give better results (I would recommend over 32) and always going very slow. If you go to fast - like a power tool - the heat build up can leave the teeth covered in melted plastic.

If you bought it yesterday you must return it and they should give you a new one that works correctly. In most countries that is the law. Nobody has the right to sell you things that dont work correctly. Fight for your rights. Any attempt you make to fix the problem yourself will make the warranty unvalid.

Oh. Does it make any attempt to close. Or nothing happens when you turn it off?

@ I can just hear a sound but even the screen won’t turn on when I try to turn it on or off :( Lens curtain won’t move either I already charged the battery too

@@lumiliwanag I believe you might have to take it to a camera service. In my experience when the lens barrel is jammed at least it tries to move when you turn it on or off. In any case you wont damage it if you try to remove any dust or particles that might be stuck in the lens barrel, before taking it to the service.

Interesting. It sounds as if it had a software issue, but maybe the stuck lens is blocking the software from continuing with the start-up process. See if you can get the lens out using the methods I describe, specially the vacuum cleaner method. If that won't work, maybe your only option is taking it to a camera service.

@ it definitely sounds like the lens are blocking the software, bc the battery is fine, it turns on, it makes like a shooting noise like it’s a machine or something. i can’t choose any option, the background is black (bc lens dont open) and the clock settings are there, i get the “cybershot” intro and right after i get the clock settings. I’ve tried it all except from your method and deep cleaning, i’ll try it tomorrow and let u know how it goes. Thank u for being active and helping us folks with old cameras

@@down2dead Yep. That shooting noise is precisely many attemps to extend the lens barrels, and then, at least in my camera, it gives up. I Hope one of those methods work for you and we get good news, but don't give up easily, sometimes it takes lots of patience. 👍

Sure, be my guest. LOL rocking on the floor 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thanks for your extensive comment Delano, and your suggestions. I must highlight the "if getting angry" go and run around the block before you continue. Very useful in a variety of circumstances. 😁

Hi. Thank you for those observations and tips. What would you recommend for smoothing out the edges?

@@Resolute900 I use a triangular rat tail file. I run the file diagonally towards the center to deburr the edges. Then, depending on the level of deviation, I'll file the raised sections, often checking it being level by laying one side of the triangular file across the edge. Or I'll use a small leveler. Rather time consuming since it files down fine particles of plexi, but it's better to take off thousandths of an inch at a time and have a proper edge rather than take off too much and have to restart. That's if I need an EXACT piece of plexi; I'll add 1mm to the measurement. Usually when I cut a piece of plexi, what I need it for has an acceptable tolerance I can get away with. Sometimes plus or minus 5mm to 10mm.

@@RODsDIY I'd also like to add that I've seen someone successfully use a coping saw to cut beveled edges or rounded corners in plexi.

@@Resolute900 I prefer to use sanding paper over a block of wood, I find it easier to handle and gives me more uniform results.

Thanks for your suggestion LTVoyager.

Thank you much appreciated. I’ll give it a shot.

1) No, but I liked that colombian cofee and it's container 😁 2) The change of colour shows the chemical reaction has depleted the HCl. I understand the Cl bonds to the tin and the H goes of in the gas bubbles, so what's left most probably is water or a very watery HCl. Sorry but I don't remember the full ballanced equations. I would say it's no longer usable.

Thanks for your comment C.Wilson

Thanks for leaving a comment Huayra.

Hi, if it's charging well why would you need a new battery? Does it make any noise or attempt to eject the lens barrel after pressing the start button?

@@RODsDIY my issue is the same and it does make a noise while doing so

@@withspf_ If it makes a noise but there is no attempt to eject the lens barrel, that noise might be something else. Evidently you have power but the software doesn't send an order to open the lens. With the info you have shared it seems that you have a software, something we can't fix withought a service technician. If the lens trembled a bit together with the start noise one could believe there is something stopping it from ejecting, and in that case it most probably could be dust or particles on the lens barrel.

I'd have to ask them 🤣🤣🤣. Over here it's usually theft, but I can't rule out some cases of vandalism. It's very possible.

I understand that some kinds of stamps can loose value with this method. For example, mint stamps, those that still have glue on them. Also some stamps have more value if you keep them on the envelope. To know exactly which stamps, or in which cases you should not use this process you need an expert, and I'm not. If you have a very valuable stamp you should do nothing with it before seeking expert advice.

@ ok thank you!

Thanks for leaving a comment.

No idea if that would work. You can try it on a test material, before trying something like this ua-cam.com/video/_deI0em7m_0/v-deo.html

Thanks for your comment Alef.

And thanks to you for leaving a comment.

Thanks for your suggestions David.

Thanks for your comment Bubblerings.

By what you say I believe the issue is a software or electric problem. If that is the case I can't help you, and you should take it to a camera service. If it tries to extend the lens barrel, but then jumps back, then it could be meeting some dirt between the barrels, closing it down. In this case my tips might help you.

If your lens barrel extends but won't close most probably it has an electronic or software issue, in which case you should take it to a camera service. I can't help you with that. A stuck lens due to dust or other particles usually makes attemps to close or open but jumps back or can't complete the full extension or retraction.

If I remember well Wendy, I said in the video that it's a good idea to start off slowly to ensure a straight path is clearly established before you go full in with the knife (thinner acrylic) or scoring tool (3 mm, not so thin acrylic). With any cutting tool on acrylics and glass, it's very easy to run off to a side and ruin the cut. Thanks for your comment.

@ thankyou very much 🇦🇺💕

Lovely comment. Thanks Brooke.

Thanks for your comment Dave.

Thanks for your comment FePeerReview.

Thanks for your comment Awalk. No doubt curves, not circles, are a different challenge. Maybe a Dremel,, if you can afford one, is another option.

@@RODsDIY Thank you, good idea. I have a dremmel yes. Brilliant, thank you so much.

@@awalk5177 👍