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i don't have any opinions on the history, but i do use a bench dog #1 pretty regularly. it sits in a jig i made for thicknessing thin strips of wood for inlay and kumiko work. i first saw a #1 at a friend's place where he shimmed the frog to make it higher angle for smoothing these little jewelry boxes he made with gnarly figure.

Great video, Don, I enjoyed it and your other videos 👍🤠😎🇺🇲

Great historical research and well thought through. I agree with your assessments. I was never comfortable with the 'salesman sample' explanation. It all made sense once you said it was in the Stanley catalog three years before a block plane shows up. The No. 1 never made sense to me until the first time I saw someone holding it like a block plane and not complaining that the space is too small to put your hands through the handle. I instantly saw it as a form of a block plane and since I've had a modern No. 1 on my 'to purchase' list. I originally was thinking a Taytools version. The Wood River is nice but I'm thinking a Benchdog as it's more in my price range. Thank you for this video.

Your argument is flawed. This time period wooden planes were still the norm. As metal planes were made as the standard, the sizes were of course filled in , comparable to the wooden models being phased out. And as millions of metal planes were manufactured, every one of them, with few exceptions are worth nothing. And yes, I collected for years to the tune of literally hundreds of pieces and it was great. But I say I wish I could convince people to buy my stuff at high prices. Just my rant on collecting in general. Good job on the site and you write excellent reference books.

I've seen several theories about the no 1 but this block plane idea makes the most sense. And the reason Stanley kept making them is because they had a set of planes they marketed. It's weird to market a set starting with no 2, so they kept the no 1 for consistency, though they didn't make/sell nearly as many as the other sizes.

Thank god for bubbas with Harbor Freight drill presses to keep us actual gunsmiths flush with work

There's no need to bake DuraCoat. It does speed up the curing process, especially if you're doing more coats of different colors for a camo pattern, otherwise 24 hours it's cured enough for assembly.

Great video thank you that was very interesting, I have around 8 Sargent VBM plane and a No 198 rabbit plane I have restored hundreds of plane's over the years and I really love the Sargent planes they were well made, best wishes from the UK.

I've seen a pencil with the eraser and compound used before

Very distinct and thourough. Looks like something they do in central Europe. And the caliber is gold too. Cool vid, no nonsens. Subbed 👍

Looks very nice. great job

very nice work!

Good to see a low tech approach. I don't have a lathe or a milling machine, but I'd still like to jewel the bolt of my Mauser. Thanks for the encouragement!

That looks very nice Don!

I used the good cold blue (Brownells) years ago. Plan B was to do what you did, but it worked well. Barrel came out like a good hot blue. Receiver was nice but lighter. Truoil on stock. 25 years of deer hunting and it still is in fine shape. Unbelievable the excellent work the Swedes do over 100 years ago.

Did you bake the aluma hide ?

Nice informative video. Thank you for taking time to build, film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed.

Nice work!

What gauge wire did you use to and from the kill switch?

Very impressive. Great Job. I'll definitely using that idea

Sargent VBM planes from 1910 to 1918 are my favorites. I collected Stanley's for years before I came accross a Sargent VBM 415 in mint condition. I now have the 79, 408, 409, 410, 414, 415, and three 422 jointers (one is rhe shaws patent). My Stanley's sit on rhe display shelf. My Sargents are on my workbench. The thicker blades, heavier castings, and more ergonomic totes are much better. Look for the beaded front knob, vbm on the blade and casting. Also some of the planes totes are set further back on the casting than the Stanleys. This is much better. Look for Sargent planes under the Bluegrass and Fulton names as well. Beaded front knob, folded blade adjust lever, and east indian knobs and totes are the key. You will pay less and get a better plane. Love my Stanley's but treasure my Sargent VBM' s.

Thanks for taking time to detail your process! I use 1/2" tulip poplar boards from the orange Big Box home improvement place. Because tulip poplar trees tend to grow straight, it's relative easy to find straight-grained boards. Table saw used to rip into 3/8" squares. Then hand plane square to 8 sides. Then 16 sides. Then chuck in electric drill and, using piece of sandpaper, finish the rounding. Weight is in same ballpark as doug fir. And they are tough.

Great video. Thanks.

Lovely plane Don, thank you for sharing.👍

I just found out that the plane I've been using is a 409 type 1. The youngest it could be is 133. Last made in 1890. Can't find anyone buying or selling though, so value is probably limited.

That plane is has the most interesting back story being the L Bailey invented it to break away from Stanley and establish himself as the primer plane inventor and producer of wood planes. You might want to read Leonard Bailey and his Woodworking Planes (An unrecognized Genius of the American Industrial Revolution) by Paul Van Pernis and John G. Wells

There are different methodologies to cleaning up an old plane, but wire wheel, not in my shop. I not a fan of the finish it creates. On my screws top I usually just reface in a lathe. I try to do all the work by hand vs any power tool except for the lathe if necessary for parts just stated. You were saying in the video, other methods but hard to hear.

Most arrows found on mary rose, is made of poplar wood, its was kings ship so its not because it was cheaper to make, they probably knew what worked the best, now a days every one makes them out of ash, poplar makes great arrows I tried. Its light, hard to split or crack.

Thanks Don for the informative video. I too use my block plane quite often when I see other woodworkers only using block planes as paper holders! I found your website and videos while researching a Sargent 1080 for possible purchase. Will you be doing any videos on the 1080 and 1085? Thank you for the videos and books.

Interesting hand plane

Hermosa colección.

great video. Please continue them.

Hi Don, do you know what thread size that was used on the Tote and front Knob shafts on a Sargent 410 ? I'm in the process of restoring it and the current shafts have rusted away.

Brother, you really helped me with this one. Thank you so much for showing your design. I have been making shafts with a block plane and am about to take it up a notch.

Don, I have inherited a Sargent 414 (about 14" long) and it has a 4 stamped into the top of the sole just to the left and slightly above the 414 that was from the mold. How old is this plane and what was it's intended purpose?

You need that plane put together. And the paper needs to be completely flat otherwise you'll end up with the toe and heal with more metal removed.

i wanna know how paint a stanley frog u_u

My god a lot of people have been watching Paul sellers haha. He’s very good but the plane under tension with the blade thing doesn’t apply to a lot of planes. Also I don’t get his ruler feather the edges thing, 240 grit on a flat surface will naturally do that.

Plane needs to be fully assembled and under tension to properly flatten the sole

Before I attempt to flatten a plane I sharpen the blade, set the frog and see how the plane cuts. If it works there is no need for all this "drama".

You should have the plane assembled with all components (including the blade-retracted) BEFORE attempting to flatten the sole! The sole flexes with the weight of the components vs the weight of your hand against the plane creating uneven pressure.

Old true carpenters eased all edges on the base, even the sole od the plate, all 4 sides.

Always use brass brushes, the will not scratch the cast iron or the japanning !

Thanks for all the valuable info on hand planes you've put out! I got here via your www.timetestedtools.net site.

Good work.

Thanks Don. I just started collecting "usable" tools, planes etc. A few "valuable ones" I found in the 10" walls of my garage shop, that I had collected 30+ years ago. I thought I needed to attend tool auctions-when I "had them" the whole time. Working on my own pretend its "better" than it is (Lakeside)plane, but didnt take it as far as you have in this first video. I learned something from you! Thanks. Keep your fingers out of that wire wheel!

This is no more or no less than his experience with the type of rust remover he used along with his opinion based on that. Just like my opinion after using Evapo-Rust, the best I have used in my 75 plus years. Other wise I might have agreed with him .