Відео

That sucks because I’ve also got a tin with 4 packs in I got a few years ago and after reading your comment I can see there’s a use by date on mine of 2018😢

thank you very much... happy to share, and hopefully I will have a chance for a new project soon

@@designplushack8108 😁😁

Unfortunately I don't. Those I got from a friend. But you can search for copper foil on Amazon.

Sorry, I haven't been able to create more content, I am literally writing a dissertation! But as soon as I am done I will update the channel. I am already planning on a LED beam saber.

I am always glad to hear that the ideas I share can benefit the GunPla community... I will soon have some more videos of the MG Barbatos and a couple of special projects including a led on a beam saber...

Glad to hear that, I have been busy with work recently, but I am already planning new videos for 2022

@@designplushack8108 Looking forward to it! Take your time 🙏

Thanks, I have been swamped with work to post new stuff, but thanks for the feedback, hoping your LED installation goes smooth!

Sorry this is so late. Thank you! It's challenging work but videos like yours help a ton. I also forgot to mention that chrome on the inside is genius! Thank you so much

My perception is that they are usually very fast and reliable. We have to acknowledge that it was the beginning of the pandemic and production and shipping from Japan was very complicated. I usually receive my orders very fast, and in this particular case, although it took forever, they actually gave me more stuff than the one that I ordered and kept the free shipping even though they have to send several packages to compensate the delay that was due to production delays in Bandai.

@@designplushack8108 what about pre order stuff? I email them and contact them through email too. No response yet. I have read bad reviews online and is starting to get worry about my order.

@@ChiNguyen-yj4zx not my experience, buy I would suggest calling them on office hours. They were super helpful to me... again, personal experience, no particular interest

I am sorry to hear that... I am not sponsored by them, just a regular customer that have had a great experience using their services, I have never bought anything on eBay from them, always have used their webpage with great service.

Thanks... let me know if you try it!

Thanks, I have tried the metallic sharpies but they dry too fast for the brushing process to work. Let me know if you have good results with them.

@@designplushack8108 aww, so brush woudn't work, kudos to you sir👍, thanks

Thanks... respect for your work! :)

Yes, thanks!

Thanks for the question, this is what I have found. If you apply the marker straight into the plastic it will tend to scratch, so even the regular plastic against plastic could leave a mark. But if you do a clear coat first then the marker and a final coat, it is quite resistant, not as much as the paint, but good enough for display. Hope it helps.

Just as i thought. Thank you. You are very helpful

thanks... I love sugru, but once open you have tou use it all... and sometimes you just ned a little bit of the pack

Thanks @ThatGuy, I have been really busy, but I have to get back to produce more videos! I am glad that they inspire people, I am no professional, but I enjoy putting some extra time on the details. Please check the other videos and share your thoughts

@@designplushack8108 Definitely! I've actually follow some of the steps for detailing using metallic markers. Been testing using blue metallic Artliner, can't find crayola brand, on a test kit and it's looking really good. Would still need to prime it though for the full effect to stick and dab my brush on it afterwards to spread the colours. I'm no expert too and is doing this on my spare time. Its really helpful and direct to learn what I need in a short time. Looking forward to your future videos!

Thanks @Chair Boi... I got it on IKEA

Hi Eric... no, it has stayed in place since that, I also used it to add a battery holder inside my Kampfer

Used the blue metallic craolya on an old 80s sd knight... made the whole thing look great!!!

Thanks a lot, CamVamp, I appreciate your comment and I am really glad that it is working out for you. I have issues sometimes using this technique with large surfaces, but in general, it produces great results for inner frames, especially, because inner frames take so much time to paint with an airbrush for something that is barely visible.

@@jvampyre1744 check some of the other videos on the results I have had, I am not a professional model but I have had a great time painting some of the GunPlas, I particularly enjoyed the HG RX78 FSD because of the external color

Hello, I am currently using a flat square soft nylon brush, number 4... with the time and use the bristles have become stiffer and more uneven, but I actually prefer that when it comes to texture

Hi Azure, I have only tried wit the lacquer... if you try a different one let me know if it works!

Hi Azure, thanks for the interest. At this point, my process is as follows: 1. Remove the prices from the runner and clean the nub marks. 2. Gently wash with dish soap the pieces and let them dry for a day. 3. Apply a coat of clear coat lacquer and let it dry for at least 6 hours. 4. Apply a coat of black metallic marker and even with a brush, let it dry for 1 hour. 5. Apply a second coat of clear coat lacquer, make sure that this time is a glossy finish and let dry again for 6 hours. Finally, apply the dry brush with the selected color of the metallic marker and brush it evenly on the surface. There is no need for a final coat since the brush effect will fuse with the clear coat and the lacquer will even up the brush effect. I hope is a good answer and thanks again!

Hello Lionel, and Happy New Year! Sorry for the delay, but I was busy with the holidays. Answering your questions... The markers dry really fast, but if you apply it directly over the plastic it stays sticky somehow. On the shoulder piece, I applied black metallic marker first, then lacquer on top of it and silver marker on top. The only problem with this is that the marker never fully sticks to the plastic, so the whole layer of marker and lacquer might scratch off. Recently, I have been applying matte lacquer first on the unassembled pieces and then a coat of marker, a coat of glossy lacquer and the final brushed marker, with good results. I hope it answered all your questions, and thank you for your comments!

Hi Nazirol... I have done it both ways; in this particular case, I washed the pieces with dishwasher soap and then used the metallic black marker as a first coat, then the topcoat and then the silver marker to create the effect. Now I would probably suggest applying the topcoat at the beginning saves you some time and use of the marker and it makes the marker more permanent. You can check more results on this videos ua-cam.com/video/XBO6WSbkCXQ/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/SuUtnbX2t2Y/v-deo.html

@@designplushack8108 Thank you for your fast response sir. And thanks for the instruction and your suggestion. BTW, I really love the effect of the metallic that you share. Keep up the good work sir. Thums Up.

Hi, thanks for the question... with the markers, you can use a cotton ball or a rag with alcohol. You can also wash and scrub with dish soap. If you want a more permanent result, you can work in layers using a layer of markers and a layer of lacquer... hope that answer your question, if not just let me know.

Design Plus Hack thanks for thr reply!

Thanks! I use Crayola Metallic Markers... I think they are alcohol base, but they are non-permanent markers, so you can wash them out with water and soap. I have also used the Pelikan metallic markers and they work almost the same. Brushing the first layer has worked better for me and with a coat of clear coat lacquer, the results are really steady. Let me know if you tried and what you think of it.