Відео

Could the valves be lapped using a drill on a really low speed ?

What is the exact part number for those heads ?

Like a V-COIL VOLKEL

Nice

My carb gonna be reared with this method.

nice

Ein video von anfang bis ende mit guten tips , wirklich herzlichen dank so muss das gezeigt werden damit auch ich dass probieren kann man hat ja nur den einen versuch danke

"totally relaxed" at "half mast" tells us nothing. The objective in performing rocker arm geometry is to find the correct length push rod when at the point of TVL/2 by way of adjusting the shims under the rocker arm such that half height results in the valve stem plane being parallel to any other un-pushed stable valve stem. How is parallel determined? Most will employ the "eyeball" method as viewed from the rocker end but if small bubble levels are used then maximum precision and repeatability can be achieved. One bubble level is placed on any other valve stem with its adjuster screw removed. The other bubble level is affixed (magnet & double tape) to the valve lash adjuster screw. Once the two levels are approximately centered when at half of total valve lift then the push rod length can be measured. Centering the rocker arm contact with the valve stem at half height will minimize valve guide wear and resistance. Follow the path of the rocker contact across the valve stem surface to fully understand.

Do you have to do this if you removed the head, and simply torquing back on? Thanks

so the most efficient way I'm taking from the video on how to set your rocker arm geometry to draw an imaginary line from the tip of the valve and the bottom of the cup that the push-rod sits in, and at half lift, that line should be parallel or close to parallel with the head to have the most smooth and efficient running valve train with minimal wear and tear on engine and to get more horsepower? Is it because you want the spring to have less compression because the more you compress the spring, the more leverage and power it's going to take for the cam lobe to push the lifter up causing the pushrod to lift the rocker arm and to compress the spring?

Can I buy this machine?

Forgot to remove the tang

Hang on!! Did I see a set of molegrips? I thought this was a good video until I saw a ratchet spanner being used on the tap and a set of molegrips being used on the thread inset tool!!! Why can't people use the correct tools nowadays?

Thanks

Is that a kit or did you custom fab everything?

Your tap and the Helicoil o.d. was M8x1.25. What size was the bolt you installed after the helicoil was placed OR what size was the helicoil I.D.?

Green loctite. Can't remember the number designation. Oil resistant. Permanent.

Great video it was very helpful to me. Thank you 😊

The only thing I would do different is Vacuum out the filings instead of blowing them all over the inside of the engine.. Good video though!!

Factory is off center to cause a pressure rise, it allows more flow and pressure is controlled by reg. and relief valves.

one of the stupidest things I ever saw someone do

the oil hole looks to be in the middle of the saddle , and you ground the bearing way off center , it was fine the way it was

Blessings, John 3:16. Jesus loves you.

Hey bro! Nice job! Did you had to machine the second ring rail to fit both rings?

you can tell when its built right. that sounds right to me.

A thread insert is much better than heicoil and is available in long lengths

I ordered my helicoils. Don't fit my tool . They seem to be a tad bigger?

This video was a lifesaver, thank you 🙏🙏🙏

Great video. Few questions . I recently had 1 head gasket bolt go beyond its yield point and and break . Can see its twisted thrn broke . My settings are 25mm in sequence and thrn 37nm its a motircycle. The 25nm went OK its when I upped it to 37 that I had the break at heli thread . Heli don't seem the issue here more that possibly it bit sooner (clamped ) than the others and bolt had nowhere to go so sheered . All bolts as adv9sed by manual were oiled . So would it be a case of less torque ? Or no oil on the heli? Or maybe the 2 heli method ? Thanks in advance

Very good jab Godbelsyo. T. Q

My grandfather gave me one of those but it’s missing parts. It’s sitting on my bedside table. What is it called?

What grade lapping compound are you using please

Great videos. It would be helpful if you turned off kids mode so people could save these to a playlist and comment more. Very helpful videos though. Thanks.

If you have decent ported heads. You can run 1.25 ratio rockers on a 120 cam which gives you about 497 lift. I run an engle 120 with cb 1.25 rockers on my 1835cc.

I have grinding compound that goes from 120 to 180 to 220. Is that good or too coarse?

I have a question Sir what Size can i use for my swing arm loss tread having 14mm bolt.

Thank you!!

You can't over torque any engine bolts that's what strips it out to start with

would it be better to have dual carb and dual turbo ?

OR....you could buy longer Helicoils. 3 X 2D will be 2X diameter long (6mm) I've seen 3, 4, and 5D Helicoils, but at least you Loctite the coils into the block like I do. Can't go wrong if you do that. One thing I have used is JB weld but I have not tested the torque it will take afterwards.

Thank you!

Thats so satisfying

5:13 Can you tell me the size of Helicoil tap that came in a kit? Thanks

Single HD springs or dual. just curious and also since this was a couple years ago how has it held up with whatever springs you chose. thanks in advance

Thank you. I'm a helicoil virgin for a few more days.

Hey Mr. VW- I am looking at another video of yours with the comments disabled where you are checking flywheel endplay- what kind of dial indicator do you use on that? Need to buy one and all I can find is the cheap harbor freight magnetic kind! Thank you!

Hola amigo gringo, a lo mejor usted sabe por qué cuando se arma un motor de escarabajo al apretar las tuercas (con el torque correcto) para unir las 2 carcasas el motor se traba... Que podrá ser?

Nice runnin Kad engine! Like the exhaust tips, simple, effective!

Use a Time-sert. It’s a solid threaded insert that is far superior to a helicoil. It’s super easy to use and everything needed comes in the kit. I just fixed a stripped 8x1.25x11.7mm drain plug in the aluminum housing of my outboard’s lower unit using a stainless steel Time-sert. It costs more than a Helicoil but is worth it.

That's Sweet