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Hi @W2PAK, I struggeling a bit to understand where and how you connected the Coax to the Moxon, also because English is not my native language. Do I see it correctly you feed the coax from the lower part of the moxon and connected it to the upper part of the moxon, right? Like the inner part of the coax to the right side of the boom and the shield to the left side of the boom? Sorry for asking probably stupid questions, but I am just getting into building DIY antennas and SatCom in general. My first DIY antenna was the flowerpot antenna from VK2ZOi

I like these "everything you need for your first station" videos. Love to hear what other people think. I've been a Ham for about 5 years. My first (general) set up was a Yaesu FT-891, 20 meter dipole, MightyLite 12v power supply, and RG-8X. It worked very well. Now i have a 4BTV and an EFHW, lighting arrestors, ground rods , amplifier, several tuners, power supplies, 100's of feet of various kinds coax, a large assortment connectors, antenna analyzers, a CW thingy I might learn and blah, blah, blah. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? I love Ham Radio! kf0alt

Hi call is GM0EEH. Please forgive the question. I run an EFHW 80-10. Would a common mode choke inserted in the coax would this reduce the noise level? Also where should the choke be added at the antenna side or the TX side. Thanks.

Excellent content now looking at your other content. Well done thanks.

Great explanation, very helpful to understand common mode current. Thank you for putting it together

Why can’t you operate on 20m

Thank you, I am a new tech looking into my first attempts at satellite communication. Your project seems really interesting, I think I will give it a try! Thank you for your time, a sub well deserved! 73s from Athens, Greece

I learned so much and so many great resources. Thank you

Thanks! I too am on the second floor and have put off building a shack for the last 2 1/2 years because of the long ground wire issue. Question; did you bond your ground rod to your house/panel ground?

I followed the instructions up till you started winding and got lost. I'm not sure how to wind the first two turns. I figured out the 14 but the two turns, I'm not sure how to start or which side of the connectors to attach them to.

Very nice presentation on the EFHW antenna. TYFP! (WA4282SWL)

It looks like your copper elbow link is instead pointing at more of the elastomer grommets.

How long are your radials and are they funned? Thanks

What were the software programs you used. N3XUS

i remember to have tested with and without a tail wire on my old rubber antenna, just for to say that when you test the SWR, you need to keep in your hand your tester as the true life for to see the true result.. and in my case, with my rubber antenna, the result with/without a wire (even trying to tune the length) give a worst result (tested with a NanoVNA).. note that inside a house or car is not the better way to use a TX!! ..i figure to test that again with my new (longer) rubber antenna and confirm it (too) using a SDR (it’s a good idea!!!)..

Thanks for your video, how can I download a copy of it. 73

Thanks for sharing, only use elevated vertical here,my 2 ele parasitic vertical gives me 2 S points gain long path. 73 zl3xdj

Elevated counterpoise n vertical works awesome, lot of gains, but you also have to extend the vertical. Example is my 17 whip on 10m instead the 99",i need 118" for swr of 1.1 with 2 elevated counterpoise.

Not too many of you get the vertical. I use a pencil and a mirror as a example. Where as the pencil represents one element of a dipole and the mirror represents ground. Place the pencil perpendicular to the mirror (ground) and you see two pencils ✏️ (elements) . The more radials the shiner the mirror the better the image the better the performance. Of course you get it. You did fail to mention how the radials will capacitivly couple with a good ground and why insulated wire is just acting as the dialectic of a capacitor thus no need to use bare copper no biggie

This is interesting sir. But may I ask. Is it possible to make a quarterwave antenna without any BALUN like a quarterwave radiator and radials that is at 45 degree angle like I used to do on the CB band? I mean if it works on the 27MHz band does it mean it may or may not work on other bands? Thank you.

Dear Sir, thank you for this video, and your excellent presentation. It would be helpful to learn your design radial length. 1/4 wavelength for a single band antenna? With multi-band, would there be 1/4 wave radials at the longest wavelength? Thanking you in advance. 73 KQ4IXD

what balun do you have there? 1:1 transformer voltage? or common mode choke?

Was it a pain to get all of those radials affixed to the underside of the dock? I know you said you tested having the radials in the water, but I’m assuming that they are insulated wires that may not have been within the skin depth region of the salt water for the majority of their length? Would just be curious if a piece of metal with a decent amount of surface area that moved up and down with the water line would’ve been as/more effective as the radials. As you mentioned, the method you used likely avoids corrosion, which is certainly a plus. It’s a nice setup for sure.

I am campaigning for ham radio people to drop the clunky VSWR measurement and use return loss instead. It is a much more informative presentation of the same information, partuicularly when the match is good.

I just started watching your channel and I find it very interesting. I do love the fact that you explain everything. Antennas are not so easy for me to understand. I am trying to get a grasp on the smith chart. Thank you again for sharing. Do you have any suggestion on a great antenna book? KO4UWU 73

How long was the wire in total

i use this antenna as a base antena..flat swr and good perrformance in simplex..

I've been using dynamic mics on all my Icom HF radios since my first 756Pro including my current 7300 and 7610. The mic preamps have been sufficient on all these models to easily allow the mics to fully drive the radios (early Icom radios did have lower gain). I use a box with a 1:1 audio transformer for isolation (helps with RF immunity) and a blocking capacitor after the transformer for the radios that don't have switchable mic bias. I currently switch between an EV RE27ND and a AudioTechnica BPHS1 headset with great results.

Bookmarked

Hello, Im from brazil, my names junior, where is the name of this object that you use for look the swr ? Saludos from PU2WSH !!

Very well explained. Thank you!

Hi Paul. Nice video and tutorial. For best performance, where should one place the CMC, near the antenna feedpoint, near the shack passthrough, or maybe one at each location? Thanks!

just got my General. had a small budget of $300 for my transceiver so I managed to pickup a Yaesu FT-450M for only $275 as its the Japanese version with only 50Watts but still has all the same bands EXCEPT 60M. Now I just have to pick a antenna/mast for POTA as I'll be operating primarily portable and not at home.

Thanks for this nice video, i'll have one question were do you placed the common choke under the antenne or direct after the transciever?

Excellent instructional video, new subscriber here. Keep up the great work!

So is this better than having 6 palomar T31 snap ons on the end of your coax feeding a homemade DX Commander vertical? What would be better on a Fan Dipole? Thanks!

Beautiful result!!!🎉🎉🎉

I use Halibut fixture for messing my common mode chokes. Otherwise you did an excellent job showing the benefits of using them.

Please make a link for the 2 charts for what to use making the chokes, different power levels etc... liked the video, easy to understand 👍

Very nice demonstration. Thank you very so much!

I’ve watched many videos and have read many write-ups on this subject and I must say that this video is one of the best presentations I’ve seen. Nice job, Paul.

Ah yes, common mode chokes and ferrites on cables, the homeopatic cure for everything when one does not know what is the problem.

Great video, new ham here about to build my first choke! I have done lots of research online and this is one of the clearest presentations I have seen on the subject. I especially liked that you showed the power ratings of the coax, and the frequency range of the various ferrite composites. I have a nano VNA and I plan to try testing mine after I build it. One thing I have noted with regard to the ubiquedous snap on ferrite cores intended for "EMF" protection , you will almost never find a T31 type (MnZn), they are almost 100% T43 (NiZn) which is why I chose to make the type of choke you demonstrated (I ordered an FT-240-31 which is probably overkill for 100W). 73 Mike.

I'm not seeing any demos of the same signal with and without a choke. Personally I have never seen a better receive with a choke and no improvement over local noise sources. It's quite possible you have ended up with an attenuator. the only way to know is a side by side comparison over the same incoming signal. If the signal drops with the choke in then it's attenuating all of the noise and signals. If the coax or feedline is of good quality and the antenna is tuned at the feedpoint with inductance and capacitance then what is the use of a choke. Almost nobody suffers from RFI these days and even with a choke in and many ferrites on rg213 I see very little improvement over triggering security lights and the like. Seems more like a hindrance and more to go wrong. Transform if you need to for certain antenna designs otherwise tune at the feedpoint. I would only use chokes in emergencies. The one time I found a 1:1 unun worked well was when experimenting with an antenna build with an insulated mast. In this case with no earth coming from a mast it is extra important that the antenna is well tuned and balanced to 50 ohms by adding the correct amount of capacitance vs inductance. If you can tune your design to work well with low swr and it has no earthing you are essentially tuning an unbalances system to work more like a balanced one yet it still matches the unbalanced coax and radio. If you can get good results without a metal mast and only use counterpoises designed into the antenna itself then you have made a very good antenna and no choke should be necessary. All videos show how the choke attenuates unwanted signals or current by showing in on a vna but there are very few videos showing the difference in real world scenarios.

Excellant presentation of the why, testing and use of a DIY common mode choke.

This may be the best video on Ham Radio Satellites on UA-cam. Step by step, easy to understand with examples, well done!!! 73 N0BB

I have made an end fed half wave and put it up and take it down every time I use it. Do you think it would be ok to leave it up permanent in the weather?

Very nice video . 73 de KN6SJQ

any idea how to make End fed STEALTH antenna? i was thinking vertically one the wall all the way up to the roof.since house is not yet insulated i was thinking of plastic pipe under the insulation through which the antenna would run and would be impossible to know that antenna is even there... tnx for newbie tips, it helped a lot :)

Where would someone buy those toroid cores?