Statistics and future predictions are raising significant questions for the present.
Up to 40% of clothes produced annually - about 60 billion garments - go unsold. Experts say that addressing this wasteful issue will require radical changes in production and legal measures.
40% of Produced Clothes Go Unsold
No one knows exactly how many jackets, jeans, t-shirts, and sneakers are manufactured worldwide each year. This lack of data also means no one knows how many of these garments remain unsold, stored, buried, or destroyed. Without this information, reducing the fashion industry's carbon footprint is like trying to solve a puzzle in the dark.
Current estimates suggest that between 80 billion to 150 billion garments are produced annually, with 10% to 40% remaining unsold. This could mean 8 to 60 billion excess items every year-a staggering figure.
Liz Ricketts, co-founder and CEO of Or Foundation, an environmental justice charity, stresses the importance of transparency in production volumes to address fashion's environmental issues. Their campaign, Speak Volumes, launched in November 2023, urges brands to disclose their production data from 2022. Although 32 small and medium-sized businesses have joined, none of the industry giants have participated.
The Issue of Overproduction
Overproduction in the fashion industry stems from outdated manufacturing systems that incentivize volume: the more items ordered, the cheaper the cost per unit. Brands also fear missing out on sales, leading them to overorder rather than just meet demand. Despite advancements in technology to predict consumer demand, widespread adoption remains limited.
At the Kantamanto market in Ghana, where Or Foundation operates, approximately 40% of secondhand textile imports become waste, highlighting the industry's massive overproduction issue. Ricketts calls on brands to commit to reducing new clothing production by 40% within five years.
Transparency and the Role of Brands
Experts believe transparency about production volumes is key to tackling the environmental impact of the fashion industry. However, major brands are reluctant to disclose their production numbers, fearing public backlash once the scale of unsold inventory becomes known.
Despite surveys indicating that 78% of brands aim to reduce overproduction, there remains confusion about what "overproduction" actually means. Defining it clearly is essential for taking effective action.
Towards Sustainable Solutions
Experts propose alternative business models, such as rental, resale, and repair, to address the surplus in fashion. Meeting global climate targets, however, will require high-income nations to cut consumption by 60%. Without drastic changes in production practices and legislation, the fashion industry's carbon emissions could double in the next decade.
Lewis Akenji, executive director of the Hot or Cool Institute, emphasizes the need for extending producer responsibility to cover the entire lifecycle of fashion products. Unless production volumes are controlled, even the best recycling initiatives will fail to make a significant impact.