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Thoughts on painting exterior brick?

Thank you first of all for this interview. I have a few questions here:, for which the set up will be lengthy, so please bear with me: I have analyzed and performed a cost analysis from both a cost and U- factor (the over all assembled insulative value of an assembly. This takes into view the conductive and thermal factors of an assembly, be it a wall, window, etc...) view point. My concern is, in the process of building as assembly, is the issue of creating a condensation plane that is hidden. I live and build in SW Georgia and North Florida. From a shear cost analysis basis, both a 2x4 wall, 16" O.C. (doubled with a 2" air grap in between) and a 2x6 wall, 24" O.C. cost the same. (There is a ..09 cents per SF difference) So, I am planning to build a double 2x4 assembly with a 2" air gap in between. With that established, my insulation of choice is blown cellulose, so I will end up woth a 9" wall cavity with no a complete thermal break and an R-31 value. So, the wall assembly will be, painted drywall, as the interior finish, 9" of cellulose and a sheathing material, typically a 7/16" OSB, although I am considering 5/8". This is where my question is targeted, wall sheathing and WRB? OSB, is the most affordable product to use (currently $17 per sheet with CDX being $25 per sheet), but because of the glues used, is not nearly as vapor permeable. So, what is an affective and cost concious choice for shealthing? Secondly, Tyvek, in my mind is at best a C or D product. What WRB is going to give me the vapor barrier I need, while allowing a Vapor Permenance factor that won't cause a moisture plane on the inside of the shealthing material? By the way, I plan to use 3/4" furring on the exterior sheathing to create the drainage plane. I like the Hardie material finishes of the world, but I from a maintenance point of view, vinyl siding wins out? I just finished cleaning my 22 year old home which has vinyl siding and it looks brand new again! By the way, I am a 45 year custom builder and I hate vinyl siding, but used it on my own house for this very reason.

Great presentation, you mentioned that for stucco you prefer a WRB of 10-20 perm. The ProClima Adhero WRB is 7 perm. Would this work still work in Florida with plywood and a 1/4 rainscreen? Or is 7 perm not enough drying potential? Thank you!

Is a foil faced insulation board also a vapor barrier? I would like to apply the panels over the subsiding, without tape, then use TYVEK over the insulation board. (R-Max 1" 4'x8' panels) tHanks all

you guys obviously have very soft hands... hehe.

Often he says that it's not a problem if the rockwool on the outside of a wall gets wet.. Doesn't it loose the performance? In his perfect wall is cladding, space, insulation, control, wall etc

Any suggestions for a flat roof with fiberglass exterior.

Awesome video, going down the rat hole. He mentions CA as only needing 2 layers of wrap paper, but anywhere above 20" if rain needs air gap. Bay Area has 24 inches of rain, i guess not all CA follows this rule?

Woodglut is nice for that.

Thanks, VERY informative!

I would like to hear something regarding the use of closed and open cell foam insulation in rafters and it affect it has on the deck particularly OSB and the how having HVAC ductwork in the attic space affect the build up of condensation in the space. Also some information on installing metal roofing so you have ventilation from eve to ridge.

Haha! "a sandbar swamp in the middle of the Gulf like the state of Florida" 13:22

Thank you for explaining the science behind the proper building techniques we've known simply from all the ugly work we've been hired to rip out and replace...

What lake is this?

This is the best video I've ever seen on this topic.

taxing gravity... you talk free energy and they still let you in the country?

Why not change building codes where you have to use plywood for exterior walls.

so by simply using plywood for sheathing we can omit any need for a drying gap?

I love the subtle burns on the american infrastructure that he throws in.

It blows my mind how easy Joe makes it to watch a one hour video

I came here from making bricks with Styrofoam video channel, go figure. Thank you! I have subscribed.

It’s 2019. Shocking there are only 7 comments so far. This video should have a million plus views. The ignorance of most homeowners and builders is the cause of most problems addressed here. The newest and latest products in the building and construction industry are not always the best. You have to wonder if most of it is developed with the sole intention to create more work and a marketing campaign to keep selling things that just don’t work. Technology will be the end of us...

"Don't do stupid things..." Joe Lstiburek

The flashing you used is not self sealing for nails from the window trim penetration into the flashing

He makes sooooo much sense. Fact and physics based wise strategies.

Thank you. Great presentation; Clear and concise.

Hello, How do you ventilate in a rain screen application where the siding (vertical steel or lap plank) where the siding meets the soffit as shown in your diagram. Since this is vulnerable to wind driven rain how do you ventilate at the top without allowing rain in? Is it enough to just have an air gap at the bottom and seal the top? This in an area of 160 inches of rain and winds to 100mph two or three times a year and many lesser wind/rain storms. I haven't seen any commercial products that are readily available for this. Thanks. Doug