After reading the warning on how fragile the fuse is, I opted to drill a couple 1-1/2" holes on either side of the heater to aid in fishing the fuse thru. Mine is an NR98DVC which has even less room and more clips. The Noritz rep said it needs to wrap all the way around for it to properly work, which makes sense since just leaving the new fuse loose still gave a code 14. Covered the holes with the same size spring caps from the hardware store. Really makes no sense why they continue to build these in without and access panel for servicing. It's one of the reasons our plumber quit selling them, they're more complicated and harder to service.
My thermo fuse just Burned out this morning No continuity, Error 14 ordered new one and hopefully i can able to make it, they sugest to remove some parts but it is very complicated to me. Thanks for making this video.
Excellent info., I just did the same replacement on NRC98DV. The cable/fuse is secured by 2 clips (same as front) on the back. One tip, without the tool, you can unclip the right side by pulling the existing cable up. Tape old/new thermal fuses together and reroute by pulling one end. Both connecting ends should be on the right. FYI, I did test and the machine worked fine without the rerouting around the back. It's a 5/10 min job for sure. Also, rmb to flush heat exch or you may re-trip this fuse. Good luck!
The question is not if the unit will work after connecting the new thermal fuse because to make the unit work, you don't even have to wrap the thermal fuse around the heat exchanger. You can just leave the thermal fuse dangling anywhere to make the tankless water heat turn on. The thermal fuse is a safety fuse. If the heat exchanger temp rises to about over 300 degrees F, the thermal fuse shuts down the unit to prevent scolding, an explosion or fire or whatever could happen if it gets over 300 + degrees. 125 degrees F and above is considered scolding. Noritz factory default max temp is 120. Some Noritz units output is 199,000 BTU, compared that to Wolf and Sub-Zero ovens have about a max 30,000 BTU with maximum temps of 550°F. So theoretically, if the thermal fuse isn't installed correctly or malfunctions, temperature at the showerhead may reach a scolding 150-400 degrees or the water heater creates a fire or explodes? Inside these thermal fuse cables are a very fragile thin material that's designed to signal the unit to turn off at a certain temperature and are easy to damage when installing. Especially pulling it to fish a new thermal fuse.
@@neallandis7135 I managed to squeeze my hand in there. It was difficult (and a little scary, honestly), but doable. If I recall (it's been months), the left side was easy to reach into, the right side was a very tight squeeze.
Sensible and doable. Thank you, no way did I want to do a tear down and didn't want to cut a brand new part, splice and passthrough, reassemble. Took me a little longer but not much.
Thank you for a practical idea rather than taking everything out of the unit. I was thinking of replacing the whole unit after the time I've had with this crazy thing.
After reading the warning on how fragile the fuse is, I opted to drill a couple 1-1/2" holes on either side of the heater to aid in fishing the fuse thru. Mine is an NR98DVC which has even less room and more clips. The Noritz rep said it needs to wrap all the way around for it to properly work, which makes sense since just leaving the new fuse loose still gave a code 14. Covered the holes with the same size spring caps from the hardware store. Really makes no sense why they continue to build these in without and access panel for servicing. It's one of the reasons our plumber quit selling them, they're more complicated and harder to service.
My thermo fuse just Burned out this morning No continuity, Error 14 ordered new one and hopefully i can able to make it, they sugest to remove some parts but it is very complicated to me. Thanks for making this video.
How about the measurements of that tool there?? This is genius.
Excellent info., I just did the same replacement on NRC98DV. The cable/fuse is secured by 2 clips (same as front) on the back. One tip, without the tool, you can unclip the right side by pulling the existing cable up. Tape old/new thermal fuses together and reroute by pulling one end. Both connecting ends should be on the right. FYI, I did test and the machine worked fine without the rerouting around the back. It's a 5/10 min job for sure. Also, rmb to flush heat exch or you may re-trip this fuse. Good luck!
Anyone ever have theirs leaking water? Slow drip that doesn’t stop...
Thank you so much, I am doing this myself.. Great ideas
The question is not if the unit will work after connecting the new thermal fuse because to make the unit work, you don't even have to wrap the thermal fuse around the heat exchanger. You can just leave the thermal fuse dangling anywhere to make the tankless water heat turn on. The thermal fuse is a safety fuse. If the heat exchanger temp rises to about over 300 degrees F, the thermal fuse shuts down the unit to prevent scolding, an explosion or fire or whatever could happen if it gets over 300 + degrees. 125 degrees F and above is considered scolding. Noritz factory default max temp is 120. Some Noritz units output is 199,000 BTU, compared that to Wolf and Sub-Zero ovens have about a max 30,000 BTU with maximum temps of 550°F. So theoretically, if the thermal fuse isn't installed correctly or malfunctions, temperature at the showerhead may reach a scolding 150-400 degrees or the water heater creates a fire or explodes? Inside these thermal fuse cables are a very fragile thin material that's designed to signal the unit to turn off at a certain temperature and are easy to damage when installing. Especially pulling it to fish a new thermal fuse.
Thank you 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾 you saved me a lot of money and time
what model noritz is it?
Awesome! Thank you so much. It took me more than five minutes, but it certainly was faster/better than taking the entire thing apart!
Did you make the special tool like in the video or use some other method?
@@neallandis7135 I managed to squeeze my hand in there. It was difficult (and a little scary, honestly), but doable. If I recall (it's been months), the left side was easy to reach into, the right side was a very tight squeeze.
Sensible and doable. Thank you, no way did I want to do a tear down and didn't want to cut a brand new part, splice and passthrough, reassemble. Took me a little longer but not much.
Did you make the special tool like in the video or use some other method? Debating my options.
What model of Noritz Water Heater is in the video?
My nortiz is blinking 14 code do you know what that may mean? No hot water
You're in the right place. That indicates a failed thermal fuse.
Thank you for a practical idea rather than taking everything out of the unit. I was thinking of replacing the whole unit after the time I've had with this crazy thing.
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