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Todd’s Bike Shop
United States
Приєднався 25 лип 2020
A channel about Todd and his happenings in his Bike Shop. Spanning mountain, cyclocross, road and any other cycling disciplines, come along as Todd reviews cycling products, shares bicycle maintenance techniques, and builds out his shop to optimize his, and maybe your own, cycling experience.
Disclaimer: Todd is an avid cycling enthusiast and following his advice, example, or likeness may result in injury or death or yourself or others. Always have your local LBS (Local Bike Shop) review your work when in doubt - Todd does!
Disclaimer: Todd is an avid cycling enthusiast and following his advice, example, or likeness may result in injury or death or yourself or others. Always have your local LBS (Local Bike Shop) review your work when in doubt - Todd does!
Wahoo Kickr V1 Teardown Long Way to the PCB
Not quite sure where the PCB is on the V1? Me either - here I go through removing the flywheel to get there, and end up at the optical sensor for the good stuff.
PCB full scale photos here:
bikefleetnews.blogspot.com/2023/10/hacking-newest-ride-of-fleet-wahoo.html
PCB full scale photos here:
bikefleetnews.blogspot.com/2023/10/hacking-newest-ride-of-fleet-wahoo.html
Переглядів: 2 070
Відео
Wahoo Kickr V1 PCB Board Location, Removal and Survey
Переглядів 996Рік тому
Wahoo not supporting the V1? Here's a start to see where the PCB board are and how to take them out for further repair and replacement. This would be WAY easier if there were more resources out there, starting with Wahoo. For full size photos of the PCB boards here: bikefleetnews.blogspot.com/2023/10/hacking-newest-ride-of-fleet-wahoo.html
Howto Remove a Wahoo Kickr V1 Flywheel: Loosening the Gear
Переглядів 3,6 тис.Рік тому
A demonstration of a unique technique to remove the drive gear holding the flywheel of a Wahoo Kickr V1 Smart Trainer
Howto Fix a Flat Bicycle Tire the "AI Way"
Переглядів 39Рік тому
A combination of ChatGTP, SteveAI and a little time brought about this abomination that demonstrates how UA-cam and its creative class may be destroyed... generate a script of 3 characters discussing howto fix a flat bicycle tire INT. BIKE SHOP - DAY Three friends, JOE, SARAH, and MIKE, are standing near a flat tire on a bicycle. JOE: What are we going to do about this flat tire? SARAH: We need...
Ebike Tool-Battery Conversion (Faraday Porteur Sport)
Переглядів 5892 роки тому
After my Amazon Chinese $180 battery failed after 250 mi, I went a different route. Pretty. but Failed Battery (amzn.to/3OPJbVB) Parts Adapter and Mounting Screws (amzn.to/3bURNfh) Battery (amzn.to/3Rrxp5R) Charger (amzn.to/3yi8BV6) 2x Wire nuts Duct tape Scrap Ikea Wood Zip tie 4x Wood screws Double stick tape Tools Hole saw 3mm allen key Hand saw & Mitre Box Screw driver Music LMK! by Ze66y (...
29er Front Wheel Rebuild - Light Bicycle RM29C14 + Shimano XT BOOST
Переглядів 412 роки тому
Needed to get BOOSTed on the 29er RM29C14 Light Bicycle (this rim will outlive Todd) SHIMANO XT HB-M8010-B Front Hub - 15 x 110mm (amzn.to/3OOSQvK)
29er Front Wheel Dismantled for Boost Upgrade - Timelapse
Переглядів 162 роки тому
Todd tries a timelapse Light Bicycle RM29C14 Carbon Rim 2015!! (so tough, 3rd rebuild) SHIMANO XT HB-M8010-B Front Hub - 15 x 110mm (amzn.to/3upTqrF) Music "2 Faces" By Ze66y (linktr.ee/ze66y)
TronBike 4.0.0 EV Console Test
Переглядів 92 роки тому
Found/thought lost! TBM 4 0 0 Test1, an Arduino Based Intrument Panel for the Alltrax Controller Serial Arduino Kawasaki Ninja ZX-11 Devo!
TronBike 1.0.2 New Years Day 2008 - MY Converted Ninja ZX-11
Переглядів 362 роки тому
Found! We thought we lost it. Rough production of an early TronBike run in 2008 1991 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-11 Converted to Electric 60volt lead acid AGM 48v DC Pancake Motor Alltrax Controller 20080101 TB 1 0 2 CD
Faraday Porteur S Test Ride Conclusion - Is this working Properly?
Переглядів 6102 роки тому
Retrofit of the internal Faraday battery with a stylish external battery works! The battery is dead, as is the company, but this cool e-bike runs again. Review the functions of the E-Bike with the new pack - does it look "normal" to you? More details here on the fix: bikefleetnews.blogspot.com/2021/12/faraday-porteur-s-e-bike-resurrection.html Affiliate link to get the battery pack: amzn.to/3er...
Todd’s Bunny Hop Check Feb 4 2021
Переглядів 553 роки тому
Inspired by a "new" bunny hop technique proposed by UA-cam Channel "You Of Bike", I went out to check my hop, and try their new approach - ie, less weight back and more "row" in then "row out" with the arms and hips...
Swappin Forks To Run the New Boosted 29er Carbon Wheel
Переглядів 344 роки тому
To run the new front wheel, we need to swap out Rockshox Pike RCT3 for a Fox 34 Performance Boost. 90 seconds to drop the fork, but the mechanic forgot to disconnect the caliper and brake hose, resulting in awkward positions and angles you will not see on all those other videos by real pros! Wheel: Rim: LightBicycle Carbon RM29C19 Hub: XT 110mm wide Spokes: Sapim Race Double Butted Spoke 2.0/1....
Tubeless Tape Fail! Air From Spoke Nipples is Never Good...
Переглядів 12 тис.4 роки тому
Remember that hacked up rim-tape job holding air? It didn't quite work, applying some water to the spokes and I got bubbles at the spokes! This means the tape and/or valve stem were leaking, filling the rim with fluid. Time for new tape. The Tape: Stan's 30mm Tape (too wide), cut to size The Carbon Rim www.lightbicycle.com/U-shape-29er-rim-30mm-wide-hookless-MTB-bike-carbon-rims-tubeless-compat...
Installing Sealant Into the New Carbon 29er Wheelset! Will it hold air?
Переглядів 554 роки тому
Installing Sealant Into the New Carbon 29er Wheelset! Will it hold air?
Howto Install a Shimano Centerloc Disk Brake Rotor
Переглядів 19 тис.4 роки тому
Howto Install a Shimano Centerloc Disk Brake Rotor
Building a New Carbon 29er Wheelset, pt 4. Will it Hold Air?
Переглядів 1264 роки тому
Building a New Carbon 29er Wheelset, pt 4. Will it Hold Air?
Building a New Carbon 29er Wheelset, pt 3
Переглядів 1314 роки тому
Building a New Carbon 29er Wheelset, pt 3
Building A New Carbon 29er Wheelset, Pt 2
Переглядів 2494 роки тому
Building A New Carbon 29er Wheelset, Pt 2
Building A New Carbon 29er Wheelset, Pt 1
Переглядів 6634 роки тому
Building A New Carbon 29er Wheelset, Pt 1
Fun, isnt it 😃 Have plenty of experience pulling early Kickrs apart. Drive shaft bearings were flogged in mine. The OEM belt tensioner retention bolts are made of butter. I've had the heads snap off in two gen 1 Kickrs. Standard maintenance for all gen 1 through gen 4 should include replacing with quality (M5 I think) bolts ASAP. Before you have to drill the old ones out and retap the thread 😒 As per my comment on your shorter flywheel removal video, a 26mm socket is the correct tool to remove the drive gear. The driveshaft bearings do wear out so it's worth changing them on a high mileage Kickr if you have the shaft out or if they feel or sound rough. Optical sensor failure is common in early gen Kickrs and can be repaired if you are skilled at board level soldering and can source the sensor. Mine was fixed by a friend. However, the processor chip is prone to failure as well and that can't be fixed. They haven't been manufactured for many years so the only hope is cannibalising another old Kickr and using the board from that. If you do, you will inherit the BT and ANT ID from the surrogate Kickr. Did you confirm what the issue was?
A 26mm socket is actually the correct tool to remove that drive gear on the flywheel shaft. I was given instructions by the Australian distributor several years ago. The socket engages very well with the teeth and minimises the risk of damage that can be done when you use grips with enough force to hold the gear.
Impossible for me. Used a car to pull..
Super amazing video here man. Thanks for doing ALL the heavy lifting!
My pleasure!!
If the tire is good, you could try removing tire, fix the tape and reinstall tire - could be an epic video ;)
Ie while leaving wheel installed!
Air is coming out the spokes on my front wheel on my mountain bike but the axle is completely rounded so i cant get it off. What can i do?
Nice homestar runner reference!
Hmm, not familiar but Wikipedia has a description of a cartoon I may like. My favorite series is “Cow and Chicken” plus some Cowboy Bebop
Where do you get chip/board replacements?
I didn't - this is a software problem :)
My bluetooth connection is not holding
Did you find the issue? I have the same problem
I think my optical sensor is not working
When I put the unit back together without the belt on, spinning the top wheel registered power in the Wahoo app! This meant to me the optical sensor WAS working!
So the issue is one of customer support.
what about tightening the spoke ?
the problem is the tape leaked, letting the air into the space between rim bed and the rim
@@toddsbikeshop6402 I had 0 luck with tube less tires. seems to me tubes last longer with quality tires
@@NeverFollowTheCrowd Yeah, I only have had consistent success with under 30PSI mountain bike tires - I currently run tubes in my 28mm @ 80psi road tires BECAUSE I failed getting/keeping air in my tubeless cyclocross tires. BUT things/tech gets better - I went from 33mm Schwalbes to 37 - 40 mm Maxxis "gravel" tires and can keep 40-45 in now.😊
Just converted rear wheel to tubeless after cracking an old rim, and I decided to use painters tape as rim tape 😅. It was leaking out of the spokes for me too and I really didn’t want to take the tire off cause I have cushcore in it, but I got it to seal up somehow , and it seems to hold!
I have seen worse, but the fear is that tape could go at any time!
Couldn't you use the same setup but with a 40volt 8amp battery by the same manufacturer?
Sure - I actually have 2 batteries I swap out - a 40volt 3 amp hr)so little!) and a 40volt 6 amp hr. On my flat commute route, they are good for 6 and 12 miles easily (1 round trip, 2 round trips) between charges
Excellent! This will be my fix and thanks for pioneering.@@toddstiers3814
I "fixed" 3 more Faradays since this - coworkers keep buying dead ones off Craigslist for me to fix.
Hey, I'm not sure if you're still looking for an answer to this question, but I have an original Faraday that is still working. The power selector switch doesn't affect how fast the wheel spins when you're not riding the bike. It determines the maximum power output. The controller uses information from the bottom bracket as well as your speed to determine how much to assist. So the way to tell if it's working correctly is to ride it. There's a big difference between the low power mode and the high power mode under load. However, it's only a 250W motor, so it won't be as much of an assist as a lot of current e-bikes. I believe they did come out with a 500W option shortly before they were acquired by Pon Holdings. The original controller also shuts off the motor when you exceed 20mph, so you can still ride faster than that by your own power and it conserves battery life by doing that. The battery on mine doesn't last as long as it used to and I was exploring replacement possibilities, so thanks for the video and blog post! One awesome upgrade I made to mine years ago was to replace the rear hub with a Rohloff 14-speed hub...
Thanks for the details!
I think my faraday's battery has bricked. Did you do this using the existing controller? What's the battery life like? Are you in the SF Bay Area by chance?
Yes, I backpowered the existing controller this way. I have since done this to 2 other faradays and have more on deck (co-workers keep buying these up off CL)
Man I cringed when you were turning that wrench your hand so close to rotor
Depth perception? I fear the blade ;)
No spoke/nipple prep?
I try sometimes but since the parts are new I have not worried. Tensionometer might drive it.
Todd, Could you lease tell or show the details of the connection from this new battery to the controller? The new battery only has 2 wires (1 black and 1 red) but the wires to the controller are more complexe like 1 wire with 3 pins and another one with 4 pins.
Just use red + and black -, the others do not seem to matter - that said, i never saw it run stock so let me know what might be missing ;)
@@toddstiers3814 I have not done it yet, as I am very hesitant to make permanent changes to the original wiring. So I just want to make sure that I understand what you did before. In order to make the connection, did you cut and stripped both wires going to the controller and only connected the black and red wires from the battery? Thank you
@@realrousseau5755 I believe I only used wires going to and from the battery pack. I pulled them out near the bottom bracket. I soldiered the black/red wires to the included harness with the water-bottle battery. Current;y I connect these batteries to a fuse and switch to the power-tool mount. There was a lot of extra wire available in the seat tube, accessible from the removable plastic (and fragile) cover
@toddsbikeshop6402 todd where's your bike shop at man? I needs me someone who can fix up a faraday. I live 5 minutes from Manhattan.
Are you the person who successfully connected a water bootle looking battery to a Faraday bike? Because I ordered this battery and would need details on the connection. Thanks
Yes, I might have responded with a different account.
@@toddsbikeshop6402 Thanks. I had a bike shop install a waterbottle battery and rewire it. Works great. Looks beautiful.
Once I have mounted rim tape afrer drinking o,5 vodka myself and it was better than this shit
I do whiskey or even better, rye!
To get to this point - did you leave the original battery pack in the frame, or did you just wire up the external battery to the leads that go to the controller from the original battery?
I removed the original pack, hoping it was repairable. Took the pack apart, very destructive and I decided building a pack of the same form factor was too risky. Got pictures on my blog…
@@toddstiers3814 Thanks for the reply! It sounds like getting it working again was just a matter of plugging the new external battery pack into the hub motor with the cable that went to the old battery pack, and letting the Faraday controller handle the rest.
@@genetien2015 correct - there are 2 unused battery charging/monitoring (?) wires I let dangle - I wonder if anyone knows if they can be used for charging ;)
I also acquired one of these myself with a dead battery. I hooked up a variable power supply in place of the battery and got the motor to spin. Thinking that I was going to replace the odd 44v battery with a 48v battery, I ran a test with higher voltage (54.6v to simulate a fully charged 48v battery) and found that the motor cuts off at a voltage somewhere over 51 volts. Does yours work with new battery fully charged?
I only saw a max of 52-53V unloaded. I never experienced a cutout when fully charge, but did under low charge around 43V (no load).Perhaps the DC voltage drop under load keeps it under the limit…
Adding an inline voltmeter is on my todo list
inline voltmeter shows my battery cutting out at 48 volts, which seems like a battery issue. It had been dropping to 22volts, so I assume 1/2 of the 13sp2 went out, but now it only runs 49-52volts! about 9 miles between charges
I don’t have that wrench thing…
Git it! I use mine weekly, more and more of my hubs are going centerlock! Link above.
Nice content. 😊 You deserve more subscribers! Why aren’t you using promosm?! You should use it to promote your videos.
I love your opening song! 🤣😂🤣😂 TODD'S BIKE SHOP! TODD'S BIKE SHOP!
Are these ok to use on road/gravel bike?
Yes they absolutely are. If good for mtb, def good for road.
works it on dtswiss center lock hub?
Yes, I think if it is CenterLoc, its following the same Shimano standard. I don’t think dtswiss makes their own brake rotors...
I think there is a difference between external and internal lock ring. This was an external, which you need to use the shimano bb wrench With internal lock ring, you can use the shimano cassette socket. Please do correct me if I’m wrong
use gorilla tape i been useing it for years .. i still got it on my old wheels they been sitting in shed for past 5 months still rock hard prep is key clean them up dry take your time useing time 💯
Yeah, i ended up using a type of duct tape I had handy
I think that you need a lot more practice or training about the best ways\methods to apply rim tape. I mean no offense here btw. I have always used the ""Travel size" roll of regular black Gorilla tape because it is a perfect width for the majority of tires\wheels. I prefer this for many reasons over legit rim tapes. It is cheap and easy to find, it has amazing adhesive so you get a much better seal and less chance of tape riding up after everything is closed up (although does leave some residue if you have to change this tape), it is super strong and has a decent amount of stretch making it much easier to apply the first time nice and evenly, did I mention it's cheap? lol, lastly it can make seating your tire beads that much easier due to the thickness of the tape creating less room for the bead of the tire to occupy in the bead well of the rim. I know this is an old video so I'm sure you've got the hang of it by now but I just thought i would share my own personal experience.
I had the wrong size and stans tape is just too plasticy/inflexible. Generic duct tape seems better, used some orange stuff too. Electeic tape us too flexy for CX pressures
@@toddstiers3814 I started doing (usually) 2 wraps of gorilla tape and then one or more wraps of super stretchy white electrical tape and if I need more to add pressure on the bead I'll add more electrical tape as needed. Also I have gotten in the habit of using soapy water as a lubricant and temporary sealant for stubborn tires. The bubbles also help identify where air might be sneaking off to.
Sweet bike
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noice
thionks!
Amazing video
Thanks!