Відео

What you need most is to be able to see the continuity of the road and for this reason the fog lights should be placed very low on the car's mask and also aim low & straight to the road surface. If they aim high and far the fog scattering will anyway blind/confuse your vision and it doesn't help to check the road. Also, fog lights should NOT be strong because in medium to low light conditions we can see more details (the pupil of the eye remains more open and more receptors are activated, also the peripheral vision,). My old SAAB came with strong factory xenon lights and also factory fog lights which are some old classic bulbs very low on the mask (warm white light, you know) and they DO work better on fog conditions, even alone.

Getting a +150W RGBW movie lamp and doing these experiments in actual foggy conditions testing with a few far off signs would be a pretty cool thing. The movie lamps have an ability to attach shades, fresnel lenses, reflectors, etc and they also run on batteries / dc power. I wonder if there would be a distance component?

After many years of flight testing, I have learned that many tests lead to more questions. I drove along the coast of California in fog a lot. What I thought about was keeping the fog lights down low because many times the fog didn't quite reach the road. Is that perception or real? It would be good to see some tests. Also dimmer lights seemed to scatter less light into the fog but I'm not sure that made for better visibility. A real test would be interesting. And I like yellow lights so people can see me, but I'm not sure that's worth anything. I know I can't see well with yellow lights. Another possible interesting test. Thanks!

Thanks!

The activator in this scintillator is Ce3+, so the correct notation is GAGG:Ce. These materials are similar to LED luminescent materials where also Ce doped garnets are used, in particular YAG: Ce, LuAG:Ce and YAGG:Ce. Ce activated garnets can be excitated by UV (~350 nm) and Blue light (~450 nm). Both excitation and emission of Ce3+ are influenced by the garnet lattice, smaller Octahedral Ion Y --> Lu, both blue light excitation and emission shifts to lower wavelengths. Substitution on the tetrahedral site Al --> Ga is opposite larger ion will shift to lower wavelengths. Scintilators are optimized for there light output with X-ray or gamma radiation, leading to GdGaAl-garnets, this materials are not very suitable for LED application since thermal quenching is the main problem. The question remains is a single crystal used in this detector or is a polycrystalline dense sintered material used.

Just blame the French for Yellow lights😊

Very nice test but some big issues... 1. Sadly 96+% of aftermarket "Fog" and "Driving" lights are Illegal in the US and Other Countries and most buyers don't know. (Also in the US, many States Ban or Limit Fog and/or Driving Light use.) Legal Units will be Marked with DOT/SAE code F (Fog) or Y (Driving) along with other Marks like Year pass testing and Name/Logo of Manufacturer on the lenses. Read FMVSS 108 or related rules in EU UK etc for more. You can find most SAE numbers listed in 108 free online but some are old versions missing newest data. At best this generic fixture can be used as Utility/loading light. 2. Real Fog Lights like Low/Dipped Beam Headlamps are Made, Installed and Aimed to put most of light down on the pavement. Legal Fogs can be White or Amber but the light Output Pattern for Fog and Other lights are Way Different and must be Aimed Correctly. Your "Fog" light is more like a High beam headlight that put a lot of light that Floods the entire area. This is Why they tell people to Turn On Low Beams to drive in Fog and other bad weather. In Fact Many places your only allowed to have the Fog Light On when the Low Beam Headlamps is On too and why most OEM fog/driver lights Turn Off when High Beam Headlights are On. 3. Cannot install LED in "Shells" made to take Basic Tungsten or Halogen lamps. Oh "They fit" but LEDs do not put light at the same Focus Point and Voids DOT/ECE Testing for Light Pattern and Fail Inspection or get stopped in some places too. This have been a Huge Problem in just Headlights worldwide with blinding drivers and other issues when people put HID for decades and now LED to "upgrade" Tungsten or Halogen bulbs. (Skip Legal LED sold by Trucklite and other big brands to replace H6054 etc.) 4. Amber/Yellow Lights or any color Eyeglasses puts the Eyes more open to let you see better *under some conditions.* In Fog, Amber helps to a point but Heavy Fog just get off the road fast and wait. Amber and other Colored Glasses etc can cause various Problems as Monochromatic light often does and Worse when doesn't have proper UV protection as UV and Open Pupils allows Cataracts etc sooner. Heavy Cloudy or Foggy daylight still have enough UV to cause Eye Problems. 5. "Scattering" is not the problem. *In some vehicles,* like many small cars the Headlights are nearly on the same plane as the driver's eyes and use Fog, Rain, or Snow as Pure Reflectors often Better that Mirrors to blind you. Look up how Motion Capture works during filming a movie Or just use any prismatic and other retro reflectors and move you head related to a flashlight. Part of the rule Use the Low Beams in bad weather. Is also why Fog and Driving lights are Required to be mounted Below the "Bumper" to prevent this issue. Side Note: Many make the Dashboard as bright as possible. This often does not help you just driving at night more so dealing with Fog, Snow, etc. So Use the Dimmer.

Since my teenage years I would hear about how one color was best for fog. Then a few years later a different color was trending. Every few years the color would arbitrarily change. That’s a good indication that something is just a gimmick.

The best thing I’ve found to do in fog is to use my low beams. The done illuminate the fog in line with the windshield like high beams do.

Just arrived from amazon italy, had the crappy j613, sent back. 60 euro the price, like 60 dollars... for a shitty...

Growing up in Europe in the 70s and 80s, I often wonder why the switch from yellow to white lights on vehicles, I never thought this had anything to do with fog but unlike you, I never pushed the thought further! I would've tried green light since the human eye is also sensitive in that region, but then again, we bump against the same conundrum of sensitivity vs accuracy dilemma.. based on your test, I did not see a major difference between the colors. The car salesman made me laugh though!!! 😂 Another great video sir! How close are you from getting a camera and what model do you have in mind?

GREAT REVIEW, AND HUMOROUS AT TIMES

omitting the halogen bulb was a mistake. the yellow and orange leds you used are all narrow band and are obviously going to perform poorly.

Not sure whether this is a particular fault of my pair of eyes, but I noticed that I have a markedly lower visual acuity in blue light. Not necesarily scattering, could be chromatic aberation in the eye, or different density of the sensors on the retina. You can easily do the experiment: use any graphics software to make three identical lines of text, spaced vertically on a black background: one red only (R,G,B=xr,0,0), one green only (R,G,B=0,xg,0), and one blue only (R,G,B=0,0,xb). Try to set xr, xg, xb so, that they are of the same perceived brightness. Then, in a dark environment, move slowly away from the screen, and see which line is the first one to turn illegible.

You want to heat the bed of the test chamber and you need less turbulence in the fog, you also need to get a narrow but wide light beam as close to the bed.... Shining any light at eye level into a fog is going to impare your vision.... You want the ground lit up so that you can see it through the fog .....

I really don't understand this, my understanding was that fog lights need to be mounted lower on the vehicle so that the light can light up the road and reach out further due to the fog usually sitting above the road due to the road being warmer than the atmosphere.... Therefore the light can reach further unimpeded by the fog. I'm sure that a lot of people who have driven through a fog and tried using their high beams and would have realised that it just lit up the fog even brighter and then quickly went back to the normal light beam, but if you had fog lights or spot lights that are mounted closer to the ground, you will find that this is where they shine.... This is what they were designed for.... Leave your parker lights on and turn on your fog/spot lights and you will see how much better it works...

Muito bom, é assim que se deve analizar as coisas, com técnica, ciência e a verdade acima de tudo, procurando ajudar ao próximo!

thanks for the links, video and amusing auto play next video alarm countdown -alien self destruct style XD-!

The best and most objective review channel i have ever seen in you tube. Many thanks. I purchased a Radiocode 102 and very happy of the device. I look forward to see a video reviewing alpha radiation and detectors. i think they will need probes and probably expensive too as i saw couple of devices but they were very costly. is there a less expensive device to be able to detect alpha.

Snowboarding/ Goggles....night/ Cloudy or "foggy" conditions..... From personal experience I had a high quality set of snowboard goggle- I snowboarded alot, and having a fulltime job meant doing so in the night... having a pair of goggles that had a yellow lens was a god send. What they did was provide more contrast to the environment...once flat white ground and white sky being fog, now I could make out and see each roller. Made any object once white on white pop out and could make out the definitions....I can't remember exactly which goggle. But they were top shelf. And the lens specific for the condition I was riding- the lenses were easily interchangeable. I had clear lenses for clear days so to not have the harsh cold air hurt my eyes- these did nothing for those cloud covered days where you can't see past your nose.... the brand of the goggle was Anon and the lenses were almost just an elongated oval that clipped on and off...so my experience..is that yellow/ orange does help...but not to see more as in illuminate. But bring out definition/ contrast

My general experience over a few decades of riding motorbikes in some exceptionally crappy weather is that I find white light tending very slightly towards blue preferable, and warm biased light downright awful. In terms of visual processing what I find here is that under warm/monotone light the only que you have to go on is shape perception - without any colour ques it is hard to discern real objects from billowing fog, and shadows. When broad spectrum light is used it is far easier to pick out shiney, man made, and coloured objects from the general noise in front of you. Also, bonus point - I rather like xenon lamps over everything else for one curious side effect, despite some half baked efforts to filter out the UV, a large quantity of it is still emitted, this makes 'day glow' style paints light up unnaturally bright at night, and also whatever the British make their road signs, cats eyes, and road paint, and license plates out of chuck light back at you to a crazy extent. you might not be able to see anything else more than a few tens of feet in front you, but you'll see that stuff bouncing back at you thru it for hundreds of yards just fine. also another thing to keep in mind with xenon lamps is most of the light in the plasma discharge is emitted as a thin band in the middle of the beam, so it is possible to achieve a very narrow peak intensity angle, and when that is reflected back at you, the scattering potential is greatly reduced.

Headlight manufacturers hate him for this one weird trick… thank you guys for doing this. Your content is really to be taken as a good example of citizen science. All the best!

Just looking at street signs, the white is best. What about normal surroundings other than signage, like trees or the road surface. Low angle vs. High angle, etc.

There's just no getting around the fact that there's no real difference in scattering coefficient vs wavelength (in the visible region, anyway) once you're out of the Rayleigh scattering regime and into the Mie scattering dominated regime. The only way to "null-out" scattering like this is with highly exotic time-reversal encoding stuff and there ain't no way that's coming to car headlamps any time soon. The underlying techniques are highly fascinating and promising for medical imaging though and I recommend the work of Lihong Wang and his photoacoustic tomography methods in anyone's interested. There are several very good lectures by him right here.

Despite the test result..... I think you still need to promote yellow light.. My argument..... Yellow light are causing less temporary blindness to eyes in the opposite direction since we are not the only one who use the roads..

Enjoyable video. Please don't make shorts.

yellow was so you don't blind yourself through reflection, having used them in real life they are a lot easier on the eyes, the French used to have them standard

Definitely the white light for me, I don't like the way all the colour on the signs vanishes under the yellowed conditions

Like perhaps you should try this again at scale because of the transflective properties of the signs .

I grew up with the belief that fog lamps were for the oncoming drivers benefit more so than the operator. If you're ever in a foggy area where there are stoplights, simply look to see what color you can detect at what distance. red is the shortest wavelength, you have to be rather close to it. Yellow not so much and green goes way back there!

O canal apareceu como sugestão, sou do Brasil e curti demais o conteúdo, ganhou um inscrito

Not overly useful for fog lamps but you have fog and a multicolor LED. I've seen some studies that say green light will burn off fog better than other colors . It'd be interesting to pass a green laser through your red laser that's triggering the photo diode.. Not hitting the diode with the green laser but seeing if you can measure a difference in the fog with it and the response time it takes if any to see the difference if you happen to have an oscilloscope with a trigger. Another red & a blue laser would make for good tests to see which wavelengths are best. As for the experiment though polarizing filters on the lights & the camera tested at different angles might be an interesting "spin" on it. Photographers use that to cut through fog and in a vehicle you could get some polarizing glasses and control both the light and the view and it might cancel most of the light that's scattered and unpolarized in the fog while what makes it to the sign and reflects back in phase appears amplified.

Experiment setup was pretty good. The translation of light source when doing the A/B testing was sadly a bit unfortunate due to the source/angle of the light “moving”. I appreciated this video. To me - the white was best, the bright yellow secondary. Green seemed interesting (I know there’s a biological component to that). For my own thoughts - I have tried to take video or pictures of fog when driving before. Turns out my iPhone’s camera was cutting through the fog pretty good. IE: the screen was clear compared to the naked eye. I loathe the thought of “flying by camera” - but a secondary small screen might be interesting.

I tried this with more recent smarter AI and it nailed it and discussed the same misconceptions.

I always thought that the yellow fog lights are for you to be more visible, not the other way around. That is, during daylight fog, everything is white, so a yellow light might be noticeable slightly more than white. But I am not sure if it's true. Of course, for night time, only the height and beam pattern will make a difference.

19:23 The white gives more definition because objects can reflect colors back, which differ from the white the fog takes on. When everything is orange, including fog, objects can only stand out by being brighter. 21:17 This yellow light is better than the orange because it has other wavelengths, e.g. the green in the GO sign can be seen. But it's still not an improvement over white.

an actual difference is that warmer lights tend to make you sleepy, or so f.lux claims

Since the fog density is not homogenous because of its movement, would it be possible to make a sort of "temporal average" of a specific amount of pictures (don't know maybe 10, maybe 100 pictures)? I think It would be easier to make a comparison between the different colours/sources.

I worked with Rallye car lighting a long while ago, and the fog lamps were almost never yellow... the most important thing was beam control, the elimination of "stray light" near the car, light which preferentially causes more glare to the driver... The very best fog lamps have tremendous control, with a very "flat top" beam, and extra shielding of the light source, and with careful design to eliminate stray reflections. I have, in fact, applied tape to the standard headlights on my car, to eliminate stray beams that come up out of the lamps. The European standard beam pattern for low beam headlights already has a sharp "cut-off" on the top of the beam pattern, to eliminate glare to oncoming traffic, but the headlights are not required to control stray light that doesn't affect other traffic. By checking your car's headlights in a garage, you can often spot the stray light that goes up and out, close to the car, and simply check with your hands where the beams come from, and put some appropriate tape just over those areas, without interfering with the Norma beam pattern

Thanks!

Front fog lamps are just not useful regardless of color. The rear fog lamps serves a purpose.

AI slop

I used to put fog lights on all my vehicles because I lived on the northern end of California's central valley and the fog could be so bad that I would have to follow the curb on my own street to get home (dodging parked cars). I knew that fog lights have to be mounted as low as you can get them to get under the layer of fog and not just blind you with reflected light. But then one day I thought "Why doesn't the CHP use fog lights if they actually work well?" and I stopped putting them on my vehicles.

Importantly fog-lights work best when bounced off the road