Відео

I would try a medium strength interior cleaner, apply liberally and let it set on that area for a few hours. (This gives it time to soak in and break down that oily substance.) Then scrub with a rag and wipe away. It may take more than one try to completely remove the oil. Also, depending on how long it’s been there, it may have permanently soaked into the plastic or permanently stained it.

It depends on the actual glass cleaner. The one I use is a concentrated solution that I get in bulk. So it’s already dilutable as it is. I just dilute it more than the recommended amount. I literally use like 0.5oz to 1oz of cleaner and the rest distilled water.

The entire gauge cluster would need to be removed from the dash. Once removed, there will be small clips all around the cluster that hold the clear plastic cover onto the cluster. Those clips need to be carefully released. Then the cover can be removed, cleaned, and put back onto the cluster. It can be a rather difficult and time consuming process if you’ve never done it before. Each car is different in how the cluster has to be removed.

The “factory UV protection” is called antiozonant. This product is not just on the outside surface of the tire. It is mixed into the rubber during the tire manufacturing process and it remains in the rubber throughout its lifespan. What I’m talking about in this video is the antiozonant that happens to be on the outside surface of the tire. When driving down the road, it’s constantly getting ripped off of the tread area by the pavement, but the product remains mixed into the rubber, so it’s not a big deal that the outer layer is constantly being removed. On the sidewall, however, it doesn’t get constantly removed, so when it’s exposed enough dirt, grime, and other normal environmental elements, it turns a gross brown color. That’s why we use this process to clean all that off. Most quality tire dressings these days have a uv protectant in them. So once we clean those sidewalls, we add a tire dressing to replace any of the uv protectant that we scrubbed off in the cleaning process. But once again, it still really isn’t a huge deal since the rubber has the antiozonant throughout. Hope this helps!

I use a glass cleaner from Car Brite, but you can literally use any glass cleaner and heavy dilute it to do this!

I know, I scratched my new car with brand new microfiber.

Compressed air and then dab it with a lubricated, soft cloth. Any dry contact or rubbing will scratch it to ribbons guaranteed.

I’ve actually heard of people using Magic Erasers on tires! Just haven’t tried it myself yet. Sounds like I need to give it a try!

The “bla bla bla” is to thoroughly explain things to the folks who have no idea what they’re doing and who need step by step guidance. There are so many videos out there showing the “satisfying” processes, and the cool before & after shots. But this channel is built to actually teach people how to do it and WHY it’s done a particular way. We would rather over explain, than under explain. This gives the folks who have never done something like this the confidence to do it without questioning if they’re doing it right.

Unless you take the gauge cluster apart, there’s unfortunately really no other way to clean the inside of that clear plastic.

We have never done anything but the outer face of the tire. It is nearly impossible to do the entire tire (especially on smaller cars with very little wheel well space) without actually taking the wheel off the vehicle. We currently do not have the tools or equipment required to do that. With that said, not cleaning the rest of the tire is not going to affect the tire’s lifespan. Hope that helps!

It should take care of it! Just remember that it may take more than one try!

Sounds like it was done by an hourly kid with no experience! Now you know how to do it yourself!

I personally owned that vehicle for 10 years and I cleaned those seats just like that several times. I NEVER had any issues with the ventilated seats getting clogged. Also, none of my clients have ever complained about it happening to their vehicles.

Believe it or not, a lot of people have no idea where to begin. It surprised me too. But at the end of the day, they’ll never know if nobody shows them. I’m sure there are plenty of things that I have no idea about, that some people would consider common sense. So if you don’t know how to clean your wheels & tires, here ya go. I’m just here to help out!

Oh gosh! It would have been ideal to remove the coke as soon as possible. As coke dries, it becomes sugary & sticky for a bit. Then once it fully dries, it begins to sort of crystallize. At that point, it’s really hard to get off. And even if you do, the acids in the coke have probably already etched into the plastic leaving behind a permanent mark. Start with a general all-purpose interior cleaner that’s safe for plastics. Use a soft, preferably new, microfiber rag. As you rub, don’t apply too much pressure, as the clear gauge plastic is very delicate and will easily get micro scratches. If that cleaner doesn’t work, you’ll have to move on to a solvent based cleaner and another soft microfiber rag. That type of cleaner should start to break down the sugary substance. Just be careful and make sure that cleaner isn’t discoloring the delicate plastics. Good luck!

Glad I could help!

Here’s a tip: NEVER pull a vehicle up onto 2x4s. That is extremely dangerous for many reasons. Instead, once you’ve cleaned the wheels & tires, simply pull the vehicle forward or backward about 12 inches and finish the missed areas. You are definitely right though about just taking the wheels off and “doing it the right way.” I do have the ability to do that, and I do it for certain clients. But that service is more expensive than leaving the wheels on (as it should be) and most clients don’t want to pay that extra cost.

@@thebrasstack6523 Just out of curiosity, why is it dangerous? I've done it for years on 4 different sizes and types of vehicles. I'm still here so it must not be too extreme.

@@ptzish I’ve been present when other guys have done it. I’ve seen a vehicle slip off the 2x4, once it was wet, and land on a guys hand. (Given, he shouldn’t have had his hand there in the first place.) I’ve also seen a 2x4 go flying when a guy went to back the vehicle down off of it. Since the floor and the 2x4 were both wet, there was no resistance, and when he let off the brake, the front wheel drive car immediately threw it across the shop and hit another guy in the back. It was crazy! After witnessing those accidents, I’ve never used 2x4s.

@@thebrasstack6523 Ok, I'll revise my 12" 2x4 to a 12" piece of 2x12. Problem solved. Thanks for the heads up.

@@ptzish Stay safe out there bud!

I believe so, yes!

Tahoes SUCK!!

The browning of the tires could also be from the “anti-ozonant” that they put in the rubber. It’s hard to get it to completely go away. But if you stay at it and keep doing this process over again, you’ll eventually get most of it off. If you’re worried about your wheels, just use a separate safe wheel cleaner for them and use a more harsh cleaner on the tire.

It wasn’t horribly dirty, but it definitely needed a good cleaning. Looking back, I wish I would’ve shown the before!

Those wheels were the stock chrome wheels for the Tahoe LTZ back in 2011

@@thebrasstack6523 oh okay center caps look different than mine. Mine have the chevy symbol also my clear stared flaking yours look phenomenal

@@bryanchristopher618 they may have had different variations of center caps during that body style. I’ve seen some tahoes that are chipping really bad too, but somehow ours stayed in good shape all those years!

I get my clay mitts from my Car Brite rep, but I've seen very similar ones on websites like Chemical Guys or Adam's Polishes. Car Supplies Warehouse may even stock them.

It all depends on the apc you use and how it’s diluted. Some are better than others. That’s why it may require doing it more than once. There are cleaners out there that are made specifically for tires that will probably do a better job, but an apc will do if that’s all you have on hand.

That big brush is from Chemical Guys! I love it because it’s soft like most interior detail brushes, but it can cover a much larger surface area quickly!