Відео

Did you do a glow plug relearn?

I noticed you didnt mention unplugging all the connectors under and around the dash, is that not necessary?

Always a good time to learn in the company of a journey man 🙌🏽 I'm actually in the process of taking one out of a 2019 Infinity QX60, minus removing the exhaust manifold it's the same process..

Oh! I see the problem! Its a NorthStar engine! Basically cadillacs version of the buick 3800 lol

That leak will cause those abs sensors (wheel speed sensors) to throw codes making the abs module go ham. ( Brake controller error) Ect. Bad design having thr sensor go in that way 😂 but oh well

I’m working on same rear K frame my 05 Nissan Murano in my driveway. I’m stuck on the beak line. Where do I disconnect the beak line at the front?

Thank you. I've been searching what the hell to do with the ceramic pieces. What a mess.

Thank you sooo much for your video! You're a funny guy as well! Job well done 👏🏾 I'm sure you've helped many people outside of myself 😊

Gracias por la ayuda no cabe duda de que cada día se aprende algo nuevo 😊

Great idea! You should do the same test but turn traction control off as it will limit torque output. This will limit the positive manifold pressure and fueling to keep from spinning the tires. As you can see the MAP reading never exceeds ambient air pressure.

The cut in and out of pulling the alternator out is infuriating... No matter how I angle it it is effing stuck

Been half-ass repaired after an accident

The amount of left lane drivers makes me cringe. pass and move over!

G.M. junk's

Nah, it's just setup for Nascar!

What state you in Darryl?

This and a few other videos were very helpful to get me started and oriented. That said I also was able to obtain the service manual for this procedure and it does not go the engine mount route. I did remove the coolant overflow for some working room but no ECM, engine mount etc. Removing the fans provides a path for the alternator between the rad and the engine block and out the battery compartment (I had removed the battery to put it on charge). The service manual doesn't mention this - only disconnect, but given how easy it is to remove the battery it's a no brainer for the easier navigation. Keep in mind to get the fans out of course you need to remove the horn, hood latch and disconnect the upper rad hose. Be sure to drain at least a litre of coolant before disconnecting to avoid / minimize any spillage. Also, you'll of course need to remove the rad brackets to allow more room for the rad to pivot back while sliding the alternator along. Another head scratcher was that the service manual said to remove the drive belt tensioner but even with it removed the mount was still blocking the alternator bottom bolt. I had to retract the tensioner and jam a rod to hold it in that position to gain access to the bottom bolt (This is covered in other videos and seems to me to be the only option) Would love to post a video but hopefully this helps someone out there. Oh and one more thing. I grabbed a rebuilt locally and the shop keeper sells 2-3 / day because the oil leak kills these units. Since this config is in so many Honda / Acuras - well you do the math. Looks like @4Runner21 had this issue.

I dread any time I have to deal with the accessory drive on this car. No room at all. Also, my 1999 also got oil all over the belt and it was the power steering pump leaking down on the pulley and subsequently the belt. I put it off for years but the oil buildup got so bad that my alternator ended up dying so I bit the bullet and replaced the power steering pump. No more oily belt. Also, I'm glad I saw this video. From the top, it looks like the tensioner pulley has to come off to replace the belt. Nice to know it can be wedged in between the block and pulley.

Thanks Daryl! This helped a lot!

The oil filter adapter housing gasket is likely leaking. If you look under the passenger side corner when it’s running you’ll see the drip. I’m fixing mine now. The front of my engine where the pulleys are was gunked up with oil big time.

...Welp, there is your problem!

...156/1000... good enough...

😂 yep i think thats it

New rule, if you can't work on or fix your own vehicle then you don't get a driver license

you just got a new subscriber

I was feeling like I was never going to get that damn thing back in. watched your video and got it back in with-in 10 minutes. before then I was fighting with it for over and hour. My daughter and I thank you and keep up the good work.

Loved ur sign at end of video 😂😂

A quick question? Is the same for the rogue year 2020?

Thanks for taking you time with good video and description of what you were doing

This is the best video on the GS 400 I seen..👌🏾🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽

Great video explained in detail, good job, thank you!

Dude, stop chewing those nasty fingernails.....gross

Did you have to remove the front right fender lining to get the belt on?

Sir, you did a wonderful tutorial job and explaining things. 👍

Did you have to undo any coolant lines at all? How can i get the debris out from under the fuel rails if i dont have compressed air? Im 7 minutes in, and this is the best explanation of this ive seen yet! Ive got to do the knock sensors on my gs400 next weekend and im definitely using this!

How do you get the belt off

What's the purpose ?

Can’t fix the fact that it’s a ford unfortunately…

Would you know where the purge valve is also the intake air control valve are?

So do you have to have it in service mode in order for you to compress the piston in the rear otherwise it’s not moving because it’s not in service mode. I’m just trying to make sure thanks.

Much obliged; boss for the straight forward video.

Good job!

My kind of Teacher, straight to the point. Also change your year up 2004 to 2014.

MOTORCRAFT DG526 Current price: $160 X's 16 = $2,560... and I was scared of buying a foreign supercar? WTF!?! :-/ The labor must be another $3k... Again, WTF!?!!? and the clowns trying to save a few dollars, you'll regret not buying OEM from a local parts center, a dealer, or even directly from Ford, Detroit. You wouldn't believe how many are counterfeit online, steer clear of ALL of them. Think about the labor costs or your time doing them yourself. DON'T BE A FOOL!

Thanks for posting. Two suggestion. Plug the ac attachment back in before you set the alternator in place. Remove the clamps holding the ac line in place right in front of the fan and Near the firewall so you don't have to fight ac line putting the new unit in place. Your video helped enormously and I was able to do the job with no issues.

I wonder if the spool valve oil leak killed this alternator like it did to ours, the spool valve on this car looks like it’s leaking too.

Did this job on our 13 RDX a couple months back at 93K miles. It was covered in oil. Changed gaskets on the spool valve too which likely was the culprit. This job was not fun for a beginner like myself. Took me hours lol. You made it look way easier than it actually was at least for me lol. I even had to jack up the motor a bit to enhance clearance to scoot alternator in and out. Pushing up against the AC line was also key for me when I got the alternator in and out ! Best of luck out there folks!

Hi Daryl, I have a 94 motorhome with a Dexter tag axle just like this one. Where did you source the parts?

Thanks for the video. It's very useful knowledge.

Thanks