Відео

Idk why this content is nit getting what it deserves

Explained extremely well thanks, pity no videos made recently

i know this is a old thread but do u remember what value trimpot u used?

very nice !

what values are the components on the 555 please ?

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Would that ohm's still handle the power if it is in parallel? What I mean would the watts of resistor need to be the battery watts ( 12 v × total 14.5 amps ) or the devices watts R1 ( 12 v × 0.2 amps ) + R2 ( 12 v × 0.1 amps ) and more other resistors to handle the power of heat. Which way is where the resistor handles the heat watts?

The EHT diode ( connected to the capacitor ) is useful if you have FOUR of these .... you might make a super high voltage bridge rectifier for various tube projects ( note : these contain several diodes , so they CANNOT be tested with a multimeter set to diode test ) ... the magnetron magnets , stuck on your fridge can store your big cooking tools ... or one on the end of a broom handle makes a good tool to pick up spilled steel nails and screws ( suggest screwing on a plastic aerosol lid , to avoid knocks , the magnets are VERY brittle ! ) ......... ( tried - n - tested ) ..... DAVE™🛑

I have a problem that this may solve, however I need the timer to start when the switch is closed but the switch will remain closed longer than the timer runs. Will this still work? I can only see you depressing the switch momentarily but my situation requires the switch to be depressed, send a timed pulse of approx 1ms, then as it is depressed another timed pulse is sent from a different switch (two switches in one mechanical housing activated in sequence by one plunger - an old fashioned camera shutter release). The second pulse is timed by a simple mechanical contact closing in a clockwork device. The first pulse is to wakeup a digital capture device.

what a great video. excellent explanation. Question what if i wanted to use only 5 leds do i take output 6 and send it back to 13?

I've got the first board and encountered the same problem where the 5v jumper isn't working on either side, is there anything that can be done, or is it worth attempting to repair? I'd been using a 5v usb, decided to try a 12v barrel jack plug with an arduino uni relay circuit and noticed the voltage read was 14 so figured something was off which is why I'm googling and stumbled upon this video, the 3.3 seems to be working fine after everything, the relay and 2 led resistors seem fine as well

I was planning on discarding an old microwave. Then thought, what is salvageable? Wala! your video shows up in my feed. The matrix read my mind. I'll subscribe and watch more of your videos

our teacher is using your videos in our class ty!

That first module blows its regulators really quickly. No protection or limiting if you make a mistake, or even briefly brush the wires against it each other.😢

Your videos are cery clear and concise. Keep up the excellent work. You deserve to be better known. Thank you for taking the time to put these together.

Great video and your 1000th subscriber. All the best from Bradford UK.

Nicely explained!👍

Great set of videos Thankyou. I'm 73 and have decided to retire and ever since the computers came out I wanted to laern basic compter programing. I bought a few Arduinos a year or so ago and have been trying to build stuff. Now with your video collection these little bugers are starting to make sence. It's my plan to build three light instalations for next christmas. Right now I'm using four color organs three chasers and a bunch of fader pots. They're all analog so going digital is exciting.. Between git hub and the university of you tube I'm hoping. God bless.

Greatt info. I'm building a diy synth with 4046,4093,40106,4017,4060 etc cmos chips. just worried about connecting my LEDs to the chips and harming the cmos. My 5mm green, yellow, blue, white are 3-3.2V and the orange and red ones are 2-2.2V. Will these harm my cmos chips. I'm getting some 470k resistors, so that should help. But would I need resistors if the LEDs are 3.2V? Also should I only connect these to the outputs of the cmos chips? Many thanks for a great video!

I need to know if adding more LEDs changes the anything else in the circuit?

Sir can you make a list the of your material you use in this installation?

Do you have a downloadable schematic diagram for this circuit? AAAAAGH, I really needed this LED circuit to work!! Following your instructions on the video, I put everything on the breadboard. The ONLY way I could get the group of 10 LEDs to cycle is to MANUALLY twist the variable potentiometer back and forth. The only thing the LED attached to the 555 timer would do is brighten or dim but never flash. I've tried around 6 different 555 timers, but still cannot get the LEDs to cycle on their own. If I remove the LED attached to the 555 timer I cannot get the other 10 LEDs to do anything. What am I doing wrong?

At 4:40 you say you have the threshold pin (pin6) going directly go ground, but the circuit diagram and the breadboard layout show pin6 left floating.

Hi! Thanks for the video, very cool! :) Do you know if there is a way to modify the circuit to make the LEDs give of a short flash instead of being turned on for a duration of time? Or in other words, shorten the duty cycle of the 4017 for when the LED is shining?

Really cool stuff! I love the simplicity. I have a question. How would you go about combining two astable circuits to create an oscillation that oscillate in bursts? (want to create chasing lights that pauses for a little while between each chase). Thanks for the video!

is rated voltage just the mirror image of power rating like (U = √(P x R)) or is it a different property determined by dielectric strength and similar stuff?

Thank you very much! after fing around one long sunday, your explanation especially the diode part helped me to reduce the duty cycle

I am using a potentiometer to control and slow down the speed of the 555 and the LM4017 outputs. I'm wanting the LED's to fade when they come on and off and I am experienced with many different circuits that fade LED's. I have tried basic cap and resistor pairings at the LED's and also by using the 4017 outputs to drive bc547's transistors that turn on the LED's, again with different arrangements of caps and resistors on the base and/or emitter sides and I've also tried resistor/cap arrangements that can turn square waves triangle or sine, with and without the transistors. In all cases, I can get a very controllable fade out of the LED's but cannot get them to fade on. Is there something about the output of an LM4017 that will not allow it's waveform to change or for a capacitor to slowly charge? Or something else that I just can't figure out?

Mine failed too: 5V regulator short circuited, burned atmega328 and some led in the process.

Nice

thx cavorite my project thanks

These capacitors contain bleeder resistors inside them so they can bleed down the charge fully in probably a few minutes. So you don't have to leave it in storage for some time, but it's always a good and safe idea to always discharge them before taking them out.

I did see another Blog (Richard Mudhar I believe) where the 5V AMS chip was desoldered and replaced with a 7805 to provide a "robust" first stage of voltage drop down

Great video. Precise and to the point!! My kinda channel

Why does my 555 led flash but only pin3 led of 4017 will light？

So the first module he showed technically had 3 power outputs right? I’m wondering bc I need a power supply regulation Arduino board with 3 outputs for several projects I have. Each module I’m using needs 5 volts to operate but I don’t want a ground loop and I need something to regulate it all. And this would be great for that, I’d be supplying the board (shown in the beginning of the video) with a BMS board that has a 12,000 mAh lithium polymer battery, and even tho the BMS board outputs 3.3v I’d be adding a buck boost converter to boost the output voltage to 6v and into the power management supply board. It seems like it should work but I’m not entirely sure if it will. But I still need 3 separate power outputs outputting 5v each. Do you think this would work?

Rrrright..... You totally lost me when you were like suddenly... E = MC squared math crap..... lol.... Lol

good explaination

Thank you!

quite sad to see that you not on your shows

Stunning well done very neat and tidy and very informative

Short, to the point, and saftety with inn. Very good video thank you, im a electrician but still good to see some safety discharge info gj!

How can I get 9v output from the module?

If you put 5v in, how the F you got over 9V. There is not step up chips on that little board.

love the video though

I bent the metal back and forth like a real man I didn't cut anything

can it use 12v dc 2a power supply?

My employeer had some leftover parts from an old arduino/RPi project we did and my boss let me keep them. It included two versions of the black power supply you showed. Going to test them and hopefully nothing dies on me haha. Great video man, your channel is awesome

So, why then, when I connected 10K 0.25W resistor to the 12V battery it got hot enough to burn my finger? According to the calculations: 12v/10000 Ohms = 0.006Amps; And then 0.006A*12V = 0.072Watts. While resistor tested was 0.25W - way more then 0.072Watts required. Why is it getting melting hot?

this is really well done you should do op amps and mosfets good success