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Thanks.

Any updates? It's been 3 yrs on, are you using drains or flushing with distilled water then pumping in new fluid?

Hello Mark, I really enjoy your videos because they're extremely helpful in understanding may TAB. I have 2015 320S and I recently took a trip from California to Arizona, Unfortunately, I encountered a major sand storm on the way there, and after I got to my camp site the wind blew equally hard to the point I could barely stand to hookup my utilities, I noticed when I was a leaving the camp site a small amount of green fluid had accumulated underneath the bottom near the stabilizer. My heat and hot water were working great so I moved on to the next camp site, heat and hot water still working great. I get home and I noticed a drip coming from behind the driver's side tire, and when I checked the expansion tank it was bone dry. I made sure the red plug was still in the drain, and checked for leaks throughout the system and found none. I believe the Flow Assembly must have gotten stuck and let alll the glycol out so I order a replacement. Do you think this is the problem?

I appreciate the video. Being able to visualize the process ahead of time is immensely helpful to all of us. The OCD engineer in me wonders about the 40 amps of the 8740 vs the 8735 as it relates to the 10 gauge wire from it to the battery. While unlikely in practice, my concern would be that the additional 5 amps may exceed the maximum current of the charge wires in the scenario where you are plugged into shore power with a depleted battery and no 12 volt load inside the RV. Thoughts?

My new best friend thank you and Merry Christmas.

Thank you. How about CVCP pipe? i have never wielded before.

Nice Video. Can you just use PVC pipe rather than Copper?

Scheer has developed a comparable product to the Alde heating. They use solar fluid with high thermal stability. I use a glycol-based solar fluid (comparable to Scheer fluid) that is corrosion-resistant up to 190°C (and even over 200°C for a short time), and it doesn't need to be replaced. I can send you a German video that explains it in detail. But I think you can understand that solar thermal energy can both ignite very high therapeutic properties and at the same time address the issue of corrosion with the same materials. Good luck.

I take the cover (funnel) right off and stick a 5/8 clear tube and hose connector. Then pop the funnel back on when done. Easy peazy

Well here we are in 2024 and today is the day for my winterization. Glad I had this video to refer to.

I loved this video, nicely done; Where did you purchase the WF-8740 AD power center please looking to upgrade 2015 T@B Little Guy Outb@ck trailer to lithium a.s.a.p.

Fantastic video. Thank you

Here are the supports: a.co/d/4II33qQ

I just looked underneath my 2015 TAB 320 S Max. My drain lines look the same as your video. I'm wondering, however, what the additional wider diameter drain line is over further to the right of the glycol and cold water drains in your video? Also, on the 2015 TAB's, were they experimenting with putting the fresh water tank in different places? My 2015 does not have the fresh water tank under the sink. It appears to be placed underneath the camper, somewhat toward the middle/passenger side. Anyone else have this variation?

Hi Mark, I have drained my system today and found some corrosion at the check valve , after noticing a bulge in the hose. I wonder how long I can leave the main unit empty before it causes a problem?

Thank you for another great video to help a hopelessly unaware new owner of a 2015 T@B 320 S Max! (Is it still a good idea to take the lead acid battery into the house over extremely cold northern winters? That fix would keep mice out of the battery compartment when the battery is out also, correct?) Can't wait to watch all your videos!

You say the battery fuse is required to charge the battery …. Will the battery work with the fuse removed AND off shore power?? I’m looking to disable charging.

Hi Mark ,I just bought a 2019 TAB 1:28 320S I am now checking all hoses and connectors as per you videos on the corrosion issues. I have a photo of a bulge on the lower inlet convector behind the headboard end of bed. I haven't drained the fluid or tested alde yet. Should I give the system a test run first or drain and check the bulge spot? 5

Your videos are absolutely priceless. I have a 2015 T@B 320 S Max. I just checked with a flashlight and a mirror inside the pump door to see if mine has a drain tube. Thankfully it does. It's a clear flexible tube attached to that air outlet. Time to systematically watch every single one of your videos!!! Thank you, thank you.

I replaced mine, wired everything exactly the same, only difference was 2 30 fuses on the reverse battery instead of 1 40 on my old. I'm getting power into the 30 breaker but nothing after that, the converter doesn't seem to have power. Bad unit?

I have a question on the height of the max fan you put in it looks like it sits higher than the original max air fan that you have almost like it’s domed where as the original one lies flat, I can get my tab in the garage, but there is not much room to spare at all worried that this new one if I was to do this would not fit does it actually sit higher than the other one as it appears to? I have a 2017 Tab 320 outback. I think mine and you probably know is a fantastic roof fan

This is extremely helpful and I intend to implement it on my own 2015 S-Maxx in the next couple of weeks. Has this arrangement worked out as well as you hoped it would? Any unanticipated issues? There are two low pipes on the passenger side of the trailer -- does siphon action draw all the fluid out or is there some residual in the pipe without the drain? Again, thanks!

Nice video....I have a wfco wf-8735p model charger working very well, I want to do an update for a 12v 250ah gel battery and I wanted to know if the charger (wfco wf-8735p) can charge it without any problem. ...could you guide me if I can do that update?...thanks

Thanks for the video. I'm finishing up a similar install. You didn't mention anything about a maxi-fuse holder/fuse between the dc-dc charger and the lithium battery. I noticed that they include one in the Victron manual. Did you just not mention it or did you decide not to include it? If so why?

Where did you buy the tank and the frame? I suggest you include links to the items you purchase in your UA-cam videos

What did you do??

I have a Rockwood pop-up camper and am moving forward upgrading the AGM deep-cycle battery for a 200 W Lithium. Your video information and installation is very helpful and I am glad you brought up the point of charging the Lithium battery from the car with the current wiring setup is not the efficient way to do so, hence the dc-dc charger you suggested to use. Could you provide more information on the 8AWG wire you used? Where did you order from? Part number? I am going to research locally who may carry something similar. There is an industrial electrical supplier that may or must all sort of options for the wire. Thank you for the details and easy to follow steps. Great job. Kind regards, Otto.

A great video!!! My converter in my 2015 TAB S Max just died. I contacted the TAB NuCamp company, and they said they are currently putting in the WF-8735-AD in their TAB 320's. It was so helpful to read these comments on the importance of specifying the newer "firmware" in the power center you upgrade to. I want to make sure I get the newer V.19 (or possibly even the V.20??) firmware in the power center I purchase. Now that the latest version of the firmware is available (the V.20), would that be the best one to get? I still have a lead acid battery in my 2015 TAB S Max but would really like to change over to lithium at some point. Would the V.20 firmware then be best? Is the company you ordered your power center from able to determine which firmware version they send out when you place your order?

What a great video! The converter in my 2015 TAB S Max trailer just stopped working. It is the "WFCO Model WF-8735P". I plan to replace the entire power center as the easiest route. What I am trying to determine is what power center to use as a replacement, as I would like to convert my current lead acid battery to lithium batteries in the near future. In your opinion, what is the current best model power center to replace with (it is now 2024) when planning to convert to lithium batteries in the future? (Would the replacement of choice still allow me to use my lead acid battery until I do convert to lithium. Otherwise, if there is now a clear choice designed specifically for lithium batteries, I could probably switch to lithium now instead of waiting.) Any thoughts would be appreciated so much.

This is my exact shower door and this was the problem I was having!! Thank you so much for the clear instructions on how to fix this.

What if you were to simply pull the incoming line, or put a tee there with a ball valve, to the reservoir - The run the pump while you keep the reservoir filled and simply push fresh fluid through?

You love this thing, but have you spent the night in there with the fanny and what do you think of that please give us an update

Oh, my goodness thank you for taking time to make this video. This explains everything in such a clear manner. I think you just solved my problem….. A like doesn’t seem like enough gratitude but it is all I can do.

I just bought a cute 2015 TAB 320S (Max S). My shower drain is in the middle of the shower pan instead of off to the left corner, for some reason. I checked that screw in my shower drain and, sure enough, it was an old rusted wood screw just like yours! Maybe that's what TAB was using at that time?? So, I'll have to find a stainless screw. I don't feel any flex in my plastic shower pan floor, so hopefully it won't need the foam reinforcement repair for now. Thanks for such a great video!!

That’s a great spice rack! Love the engineering!

As good as the Victron unit is it could be made better if they modified the “To Battery Minus” side to fit directly over the negative terminal of the battery with the standard battery screw.

I needed some place to store a laptop or full size ipad while traveling. Had my brother-in-law purchase some scrap aluminum that we bent to form a low profile shelf. We bent each side 90 degrees to form an L so we could attach it to the bottom of the table. We added a small strip of aluminum to the back of the shelf for added security. The opening faces the driver's side of the t@b. It is wide enough for a full size macbook pro and a ipad mini. Never have either fell out and we've been on some rough roads. We pull a 2019 t@b 400 bdl

We pull a t@b 400 BDL (2019) and never had an issue with the tow vehicle (Jeep Grand Cherokees) providing power via the 7-pin. There was always power to charge the batteries (ACM and later lithium) which powered our fridge (DC/AC/Propane). Got a new tow - 2020 Ford F150 5.0 and immediately began having power issues. After lots of research and reviewing forum chats, we learned the new Fords only provide enough power through the 7-pin to power the side camper lights. Won't power the Furrion rear camera and it was wired to the rear lights. Everyone said we needed a DC to DC charger. I didn't feel comfortable doing it but my son is one heck of a mechanic/electrician so I purchased everything and one Saturday we tackled the problem. We began at the tow battery running a heavy gauge wire with a fuse, from the battery to the rear bumper. We also attached a heavy duty on/off switch close to the battery. We connected a Harris plug and attached it under the bumper as close to the 7-pin connector as we could. Installed the DC to DC inside the storage container on the front of the t@b. There is a junction box under the front of the t@b that was easily accessible for wiring from the DC to DC and we ran wire from here along the normal 7-pin wire to with another Harris connector to attach to the tow. Works great now - when connecting I hear the DC to DC start up and confirm operation by looking for the green light. Easily handles the charge of our lithium batteries. Now, one other issue with the Ford we discovered on some of our early trips. After driving for several hours (pulling our t@b), we might experience a hard start after a stop, when turning the tow back on. Initially thought it was a battery/alternator issue but testing both showed they were performing perfectly. More research and we learned Fords, under towing, are known to suffer from heat soak. Meaning, the starters get very hot due to their location near the manifolds. The solution is to wrap the starter with a heat shield. Cost about $20 on Amazon, came with two wire flex ties to secure it. Since installed, the hard start issues have gone away.

We have a t@b 400 and travel around 200 days of the year with it. Have to simple (for us methods) to level our t@b quickly when pulling or backing into a site. First, I use LevelMate Pro. I have it installed in our t@b and connect to it via bluetooth and the app on my Iphone. I can tell very quickly if I'm level East to West; at this point I don't care if I"m level North to South. I then verify what the app is telling me by looking at a small level installed under the front window of the t@b. I have four easily accessible rubber blocks (much like lego blocks) that we can quickly set behind/in front of the trailer wheels. I think in all our travels, only once have I had to double stack leveling blocks.

Great video thanks for sharing. I have a WFCO WF-8735-P and was thinking this would charge well enough Lithium and then my 480w solar would bulk charge or top off the rest. Think that plan would work?

Yes, If the ambient temperature is higher than can be set on the thermostat, the furnace pump will not cycle on.

I got one side all done, fixing all the corrosion and using the magic paint on the connections and adding a low point drain. The system was working great, until I had a break on the other side of the camper where the Alde system is (with the rubber t drain) due to a corroded connection. I fixed that side and put in new fluid. Then I tried to run the pump to get the air out but the pump would not run. I'm thinking it is because it's too hot inside the camper (we're in the hot sun of FL) for Alde to turn the heat on. I'm going to try it again when it cools off. Have you experienced this, that is the pump not running due to the temp inside the camper?

So helpful! We just bought a 2015 320s and our learning curve is proving to be quite steep. Your videos are clear, easy to follow, and so very helpful!!

Did you do a video on setting up the auto detect for lithium batteries? There's a process for getting the audio detect to recognize the lithium. Green lights next to the fuses is for lead acid, blue lights are for lithium batteries. I just installed mine and ready to set up for lithium. Please let me know if you have a minute. Thank you

Great video! Thank you. Since the only apparent difference between the 8735-P, the 8735-AD and the 8740-AD is the converter, could you have left all of your original 8735-P hardware in place including all the breakers, AC connections, DC connections and fuses, and just swap out the converter? If not what is the issue that negates this theory. Thanks again

Hi Great video series, thank you. I have a question about the wiring. I have a GMC Sierra 2500HD with a 6.6 Diesel and it has two batteries. Do I connect the wires to both batteries somehow, or to just one. Please advise. Thank you. Hope all is well.

Another good idea. I happen to have just bought a tin of old fashioned beeswax. Do you think it would work as well ? Also, I like your table upgrade from the laminate original. I replaced mine w a nice piece of walnut butcherblock - which eventually deteriorated in the elements. Now, mine is 1.5 inch thick Azek- bombproof.

This was a very informative and well done video. I’ve owned my T@B 5 years now and I think knowing my hot, cold and bypass lines helped me understand it. I’m a 72 year old woman and I definitely learned more about winterizing. I live in the south in a hot climate and don’t have to winterize every winter, but I sure like your method of not having to deal with de-winterizing.

Thanks so much for this series. I was waffling about whether to try this myself or having it done for me. Yours is the first that actually explained the whole process succinctly yet thoroughly enough for me to understand

Instead of making a drain out of soldered copper pipe and a tee, could you use pex and sharkbite connectors to make the drain?