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Hey Bryan, will much appreciate those pictures of your tailwheel and truth be known what I have in place at the minute am not happy with as it does seem a bit flimsy? Although nothing is tightened up yet. I will also check out Peters webpage. The floor will remain clecoed up to the very last detail, as I know there is a great deal of work in the area, in particular the trim, and wiring and rigging especially about the auto pilot servos. …not having luck with that.

Hi Robert, getting there and enjoying every part of the build. Are you building anything?

It is, and enjoying the build more so now as its all coming together into one piece

Yes, I'm almost there!

I know the details on the drawings can be a little daunting at times, but I do want I know, then those harder bits or the bits I don’t understand just fall into place.... eventually

Hi Bryan, probably or better will be using plate nuts and screws for the tips, even though there will be 6 million of them. Don’t like the idea of making them a permanent fixture with rivets, and just another way of have an inspection opening, I guess.

Yes, I will, just have to finish this wing!

There are stops on each spar which basically aligns the wing into its position, then the 3 tooling holes are for alignment. Once that is achieved you have two forward half inch bolts and two rear quarter inch bolts that fix tight the two spars together with the bolts. So basically, you have 3 tooling holes and the two plates that align and you finish off with the bolts, two forward and two aft…hope this answers and I didn’t get lost in the translation?

Hi Dan, Ok, makes good sense….my copper Cleco’s after drilling with a 3mm did and didn’t fit, so just put in the minimal amount to hold the skin tight against the ribs. The holes are still smaller than if done with a # 30, so that is a good thing. You could or can if you stick to the 7/64 use a smaller nail in the dimple but need to be careful when squeezing the die so it does not off set the hole and give you a countersunk that is a bit off set. The correct nail supplied with my dimples was just to big for the 3mm hole so found a nail slightly smaller and on my test hole seemed to work. The duckworks lights are the best and highly recomend them.

stock, so not aerobatic

Hi Andrew, I think the short answer is, is that with RV’s it is made from a different grade of aluminum or at least the earlier ones were. The Sonex is made of 6061-T6 and is naturally resistant to corrosion. That said I have primed the mating surfaces only, well that is except the spar as it came factory made. Earlier Sonex’s were primed, as was with RV, and is a builder’s choice. There are some aircraft flying today, that were primed and have corrosion, others not primed and no signs of corrosion- its horses for courses. Gavin is doing good, I emailed him around 3 weeks ago and he sent me a picture of his cowl fully fitted, looks great. Thanks for watching and your kind words

My first (aborted) project was an RV4, and I built the tail in the 1990s. Like a lot of builders I did the full acid etch, alodine, and prime treatment. Took a lot of time, nasty chemicals, and additional cost. Fast forward to 2009, I was restoring a 1946 Cessna C140 which like the RVs was built out of alclad 2024-T3 aluminum. So after about 64 years that airplane, which was a cheap airplane of the day in 1946, it was still airworthy. With that said part of the restoration involved a lot of disassembly, cleaning of corrosion, and priming so it would go another 64-100 years. My conclusion is that anything I build I probably won't be flying in 64 years, but it would probably be fine with bare aluminum. So when you alodine & prime you are really doing it for someone else. The Sonex is 6061-T6 which is not as susceptible to corrosion as 2024-T3. So I primed nothing but a few parts I made out of some 7075 I had laying around.

Hi Andrew, Bryan alsways has sound advice

I was wondering about Gavin a couple of weeks ago, too, and emailed him. Sounds like he just has a lot of other things going on, but he said he'd try to post something again soon. 🤞

Still a bit to go on the wing, all the wiring and tip, then its deburr and rivets

Yes it was a bit overwhelming but got there in the end

Hi Bryan, got it thanks, Adam certainly has grown up since then. Here is my question, as I noticed copper Cleco’s on the LE skin. In the process of upsizing the RHS wing and namely the L.E skin. How do I Cleco it when upsizing using a 7/64, the silvers will go through, but not lock into position. I haven’t done it yet and tried it on a piece of scrap aluminum, and it passes straight through. When dimpled I will assume a copper will then go through as the hole will enlarge after the dimpling and therefore hold the skin against the ribs. Do I drill both ribs and skins separately or opt for a larger drill bit, say a #31 or #32.

@@pandyseven Andy, we actually drilled ours up to #30 before dimpling. A copper cleco will barely go in a #32 hole and a #31 is a little better. I think you are going too small. Sonex does not recommend going to #30 before dimpling.

Correct me if I am wrong, but Sonex do not recomend to drill to #30? and you did?

@pandyseven correct

So if I stick to the 7/64 then I will need to upsize skin and rib seperatly, then dimple both, then reassemble using a copper cleco as the hole will now be larger enough? OR do what you did and upsize now to #30

What are you going to build?

It may be just out of camera angle, but the canopy is tied off to a roof rafter with 2 red nylon straps. I leave it open and subsequently secured off as I constantly am in and out of there as part of the build. Good tip, glad you made it as it will be something I need to be aware of when the aircraft is completed…perhaps a solid rod will need to be manufactured.

@@pandyseven You learn to park so the wind will try and blow the canopy open - that way you can have it open when you are getting out. If it's really windy we take turns getting out and holding the canopy when we fly two up. To gonegliding's point, it is fragile when open. Although I don't really worry about it in the shop.

Good advise, can I also not make up some sort of solid arm as a "stay" type device?

@@pandyseven Would be a cool idea. If you get one to work out then definitely post it on youtube!

I will see if I can come up with something and post it...

Hi John, Yes progress is going well and really enjoying the wing build and am glad when I finish this one, there’s another to do.

Good point, thanks Bryan and guess I can look at riveting topside first. Fwd rivets will be a pain, but the Cleco went in relatively easy, so expect the rivets to do the same.

Please let me know your thoughts

Looks like your approach is working out. The forward-most holes are a pain. I built a simple fixture from wood that presses the forward skin down against the ribs to hold everything in place before I drilled. It ensured that there was no space between the two (especially those holes closest to the leading edge) that might allow an offset hole if I drilled just slightly at an angle. I drilled the forward skin up to 7/64", too. I think the #31/32 drill bits the plans call for are too big once you dimple the forward skin. 7/64" seems to be the sweet spot where you can still hold everything together with silver clecos before dimpling and copper clecos after dimpling and still have an acceptably tight fit for rivets.

I am not looking forward to riveting the LE skins and hope I can iron it out flat against the rib, geting good contact for rivet/rib

@@pandyseven If you can get a helper for the very last nose rivet that is a real benefit. When we did ours I pushed the skin down hard and Adam set the rivet. We did the top spar to the front, then flipped it over and did the rear spar to the front. Besides that last nose rivet they are really easy and with two people the last one is not bad.

sounds like good advise, and will do the same

Well Done on your Xenos, hope to see a video and or pictures of your build...what platform are you using for the step by step document..EAA website?

I should also mention that I originally had the conduit running through the forward ribs, but later opted to run it through the front tooling holes in the rear ribs to keep them (mostly) away from the aileron controls, while still guaranteeing that there was an opening into the fuselage.

I have elected to run the cables in the aft ribs

Probably should have gone to my local hardware to get the tube, but elected to get the same as the Pitot/Static from Aircraft Spruce, that exercise cost me $130 AU…In the short term will use a draw wire as I don’t have my cables for any wiring as yet.

@@pandyseven ouch. $130 is a lot. Either way, I'm sure it'll turn out great.

@dan_der_flieger Thanks, Dan. I can only hope

Hi Bryan, The B does not have an opening forward of the tunnel as does the A, so only the hole for the aileron pushrods. I am still wondering how I get the pitot/static tubing into the cockpit, as there is only a very small space in the tunnel. I know the two mounting blocks on the spars themselves are practically tight against the walls of the tunnel, leaving only around 10mm [ 3/8] or so clearance, from spar thickness to tunnel wall…hope that makes sense? As far as tooling holes in fwd/aft ribs there is only the chord holes, 2 in each rib, so effectively 4 in total. I am planning to open the aft chord hole to the bushing size same as for the pitot/static and use a similar tubing size.

@@pandyseven Interesting, I didn't realize the B model flaps were so much different. I see now that there is a flap torque tube behind the seatback bulkhead/framework. I'd ask Sonex how to route wires and the pitot static lines into the cockpit, if it's not in the plans.

I guess my best bet is to check with Gavin, he is at that stage ...almost

Thank you kindly!

we as builders 100% agree with you on that one

@ til I can start building my own ,,,,, people like myself get to live through the things you share .

Hang in there Joey, it will happen one day.

There was a software update so this posting was all over the place. Can you be specific, was it the music as in my choice that just sucked, or the volume levels, hope the latter? I am trying my best to get all aspects right

Hi Joseph, I must say I am like you, " symmetry" is everthing to me.

Sorry about the volume levels. There was a software update and hadn’t realized it was those levels until I posted it. I will endeavor to get it better in the future

Thanks, and am very happy with the space, but it has filled up very quickly, and doesn’t feel as big anymore

you are 100% right, and my only defence is the software I use did an update to v. 2025, and it was so hard to get used to. It was only when I uploaded to UA-cam released the volume levels were way different to what I thought they were-My fault and will endeavour to fix it for next time.

Great advice and will take it on board. You’re right about the jig, and have already looked ahead that the way I have done it possible wont work when inverted, but will see this weekend.

Yes, getting there...I am always nervous when I start a new section if the build

@@pandyseven why did you choose blinds for the ribs instead of solid?

Blind rivets is how the aircraft was designed, solids are only in the main spar and on the windscreen 'bow'

@@pandyseven wonder if they did it for weight

I dont belive so, I would guess it is for the ease of building...its faster and takes only one person to do? solid riverts require more expierence....

Yes, they are a very handy tool. I try to use a bench drill or pillar drill in most cases, this tool I use if the bench drill is impossible. It’s far better to keep things in line or perpendicular to the surface with your eye, remember my mistake with the ‘Y’ tail spar...

Yes you are correct, and even if I do check 16 times, or 600 in my case I check that one last time, just to be sure

Found it on Amazon, Big Gator Tools STD1000DGNP V-Drill Guide,

@@wallymurray620 thank you!!

Wally is correct, Big Gator v- drill, I got mine on eBay

@@wallymurray620 Thank you - I just ordered one too. WXB0077 got delivered just shy of a month ago, and I'm officially in the, "I'm in over my head" phase

Hi Wally, are you going to video the build on youtube? and what is your method of documenting EAA, builders log? please let me know so i can follow your progress

yest sounds like a plan, will do that and take a snap shot

Did you still have 0.32 spacers? on the spar, the ones on the forside of the ribs???

@@pandyseven yes, there are two spacers - one is 1/8" (center spacer) that fits between the spar caps and another 0.032" (web spacer) that overlaps the 1/8" spacer and the spar caps. Both of those spacers go on the rear side of the main spar/fore side of the aft rib. There are no spacers for the forward ribs.

Hi Dan, the reason I ask is I was just trying to establish the major differences between your model of the spar being in the 30's and mine around 35 odd kits after yours. It does appear to be just the aft edge of the main spar aluminium that differs having a larger lip. Obviously, these spar components are cut from a solid piece or pre moulded piece then factory curt to a given specific, mine and now Sonex’s at the factory have the raised lips…hope all that makes sense

@@pandyseven - yeah, after looking at yours and comparing to what I have, it seems like there is a difference. Not sure if the spars are extruded aluminum that's machined or if they're molded?? My guess is the former. Seems like it would be a lot easier (in terms of scale) to extrude several lengths and machine off what you don't need than to pour melted metal into molds and remove parts one at a time.

Mine are machined from what I would assume is an extrusion, that extrusion is just that little bit heigher than yours I guess...

Hope you do well with your wings, would be nice to see a video series of your build??? Sonex replay was to keep it as I have done it with the 0.63 packer, and larger bolts. Chris from Sonex said their spars are the same, and they do what I have done. How are your spars? same as mine?

@@pandyseven Yes, my spars have the same raised edge as you show on the video. I am looking at the plans numerous times before I start drilling holes in the spar and attach blocks. Just a little nervous I guess. Thank you for your videos. They are super helpful. I may do a few videos of my build as well.

It would be nice to see other builders such as you do a build series of their build. It is very helpfull to us all-send some pictures?

Hello Andy, have you gotten to page WXB-W08? Step 9 in general construction order states to complete drilling through both blocks while spars are mated, then to install the rig plates XNS-W40-21. My question is should we drill through both left and right attach blocks now or wait. Some suggest waiting until rigging the wings to the fuselage. Just curious if you have formed a plan. I like your engineering and thought process. Rob

Hi Robert, I am unsure if it would make that much difference to wait until rigging? The objective is to have the wing spars together to firstly match what Sonex have done at the factory, that is the 3 holes you align. This you can successfully do outside the aircraft with clamps prior to rigging and allows you to complete the wing rig plates. When rigging you will need the forward spar tunnel in place so as to align the 3 holes in the aft tunnel and in the forward tunnel ‘Z’. The forward tunnel Z is going to be one hard thing to do, especially when riveting the plates at the fuselage upright angle and most of the riveting will have to be done inside the aircraft I believe. Anyway, so to look at this objectively if you drill all the way through now, you will have that alignment with the pins or bolts completed of which you can check outside the aircraft. Then when you get to rigging and eventually install the forward tunnel ‘Z” all you have left is to run the drill through the spars and into both forward and aft reinforcement plates that are attached to the spar tunnels. If you left the forward tunnel off and used the spar holes as a guide you will be able to drill backwards towards the rear spar tunnel, thus successfully keeping that hole in alignment with what you have done in the spars. Then run to drill forward back through the rear spar holes that are now up drilled back through the mated spars [ already upsized] then through the forward spar tunnel ‘z’ giving you a better way to keep in alignment. So, if all this makes sense, this to me sounds like a better way to do it., buts as always, I am still going through this in my head. It’s a great question and I will be up to this part on the weekend so will cover it in my next video due in a weeks’ time.

I will more than likely be traveling down the same path as Gavin with the push rods but will just wait until I cross that bridge. I know it must work with the rods supplied, or they wouldn’t supply them? So will just work on the err of caution, and want to ensure if I do travel down the path of a new rod, doubly ensure I buy the correct ones..

Building the AeroVee was probably the easiest part of the project. I used the stock pushrods. At about 280 hours I noticed one was failing on one of the edges, and I replaced it.

Hi Bryan, probaly why I will keep the stock push rods at this satge as I know they have to work if Sonex are still suppling them...

Thanks for that, believe it or not it helped me also

The Jig basically created itself in the end as I intended just to do a 2-dimensional setup on a flap board or something like that, that seems to be the way most do it, then it developed into the shape it is now. Better to fault find standing up than to crawl in a tight space

Long way to go yet on the wiring but overall it is starting to make some sence..