Відео

Some very well-founded comments on choosing a plane to build, all valid. You can turnkey the Sonex into a million-dollar looking airplane and that’s part of the reason why I went down the path of a cheap base level plane, spend up on instruments and paint and so on. You can also have a million-dollar airplane and spend money on all the wrong things, and it will look like *&^%$#. My best advice is this, think back to the very first time you flew in a plane, mine was when I was around 4 in a Focker Friendship F27. I still remember looking down at the sheep and cows and to me they looked like tiny toys, as any 4-year-old would say. It was then I knew I wanted to fly, and at my age now feel very privileged I will one day do it in a Sonex, a Sonex I have built and molded into something that I will know every bolt and every rivet and every tube and wire that goes into it, so it can carry me into the sky that both you and I were probably destined to always do. Choose well, document your build as one day you won’t be able to fly and all you will have are those wonderful memories of all those bits and pieces that arrived one day in a big box that you turned into a wonderful flying machine, it will be at that moment you will then realize how beautiful it must have been when the Wright Brothers took flight for the very first time.

Thanks Vidmister

Thanks Dave, light at the end of the tunnel now but still a bit to go

Oh ok, didnt know about the yard thing, so its around 25 yards of concrete...I will be so glad to get this dam shed build and Sonex moved in

Thanks Damo, good to get the concrete done, its all down hill from here ,hard stuff is done

The White ants had caused a great deal of damage to the entire house also probably back in the late 70's early 80's, I can tell from the repair work timber they used. i have since done renovations internally and repaired many areas also. I have had so many hold ups in this build of the new Sonex Shed with the rain, but I do have a light at the end of the tunnel now, so fingers crossed it won’t be long until finished , and its back onto the Sonex build.

I will agree the highwing is a good-looking aircraft and seems to be the way things are heading, even Vans are in on it. I am looking at a few options for another build, and in particular the Jabaru J230, or at least a kit that offers instrument packages in the mix.

This dam shed is taking too long, and I am getting a bit over it, but light at the end of the tunnel and fingers are crossed that I Pour concrete this week. Poor old Bundy, being deaf, but it doest stop him catching rats.

I do like the high wing Sonex, unsure what cost it wil be?

There are so many variations I have come up with, I thought should just use the K.I.S.S scenario. Carbon fibre idea was something I was going to do for the instrument panel, and still may do that down the track.

@@pandyseven Whatever you do, I know it will look fantastic and be highly functional! 🤩

Thanks Wayne

Sheds are the best, and can’t wait for this to be finished, just have to get past the rain, think we have had 15 or so days of it…

Definitely Baily, he is out there with me rain hail or shine. Pockets is just another 19-year-old, he has a lot to learn in life.

I was watching your previous build videos - impressive work. I am considering a future build and after watching you and Gavin (hope he is ok, not seen any videos) the Sonex price and construction look very appealing. Thank you for showing your build - great information. One thing bothers me about these homebuilt kits. Why do they send them with all the rivet holes drilled undersized? Have to spend (waste?) time redrilling and deburring all of them. Why doesn’t the factory drill to the correct final size? Thank you in advance.

​@@andrewschmidt5312Andy can probably shed light on this too, but I think it comes down to kit cost. Many of the parts are not drilled at all and you use the smaller holes to pilot drill into undrilled metal first and then up-drill to a 1/8" hole once the pilot holes are aligned. Vans (makers of the RV series of aircraft) recently had an issue where they outsourced parts to a 3rd party that laser cut some parts. My understanding is that they did it incorrectly and the pre-drilled holes became overheated, changing the temper of the alloy, which would lead to cracking where the rivet was placed. With the Sonex kit needing to be up-drilled by hand, that doesn't happen (unless you use a really dull drill bit).

Hi Andrew, I believe Gavin is just caught up with domestic duties at his B&B but will reach out to him today just in case, also Dan der Fieger. Rivet holes are undersized basically to allow you time to set out your project, it’s a way to assembly and should you be out with a hole just a bit, were it does not quite line up, you get a second go, so silver to copper cleco scenario. That said kits come in many options; some are laser holed. There are, I believe, a good and bad side to the laser, as it hardens the surface and has potential, and I say potential to stress fracture with subsequent failure. I believe RV aircraft manufacturer had some previous issues, but don’t quote me. Aircraft have been built the way Sonex do it for years back to WW2 and beyond that, for me it’s a proven method. Sonex do laser hole but they are so small its just to align the 3/32 drill head up, but laser it in this scenario a perfect way to align multiple parts up, eg spars [ ruddervators] Kit manufacturers are going for fast build options and hence the holes being predrilled in say skin surfaces, my first plane I built we had to measure out everything so the predrill size worked a treat. I totally love stainless pop rivet and makes for a faster build. The only thing I would do again differently would be choose a kit that offered instrument wiring full harness and instrument options, something I wish Sonex offered. I am working my way through the instruments with help, so I hope this helps you and others, please email anytime hope I have given some good food for thought. Regards Andy

⁠​⁠@@dan_der_flieger and @pandyseven thank you both very much for your detailed replies . Greatly appreciated! It makes sense. Its great when knowledgeable people take the time to educate others.

yes it was a big milestone, but a long way to go

The old saying is, "you need to break an egg to make an omelette”

Hi John, I am looking forward to the new shed, much bigger space, and can have multiple projects happening all at once.

This shed is my ‘training pants’ shed, my final big mans shed is a 15m x 12m when I move into the airport park

I hope to have concrete done in around 2 weeks and shed built in a month. Can’t wait to move the Sonex into its new home.

No chickens were hurt, but an absolute pain in ass as they are always under my feet, and yes Baily eyes off one chook all the time

I am so glad to see the back end of that revolting old shed, and will be very happy to get the new one built for the Sonex

nice bike, I remember it....

if you like that you will most certinally like my next project, 1928 Model A Ford

Hey thanks for the tip, will purchase some of that. That said I had to apply a second coat anyway so will try the black RTV. And peel as much of the red off as I can, thanks again

I have purchased some CA glue for mu dioramas so will give it a go on the canopy

Nice, I have another , its a Suzuki Bandit 1250 GSF

@@pandyseven my other bike is a 1989 Yamaha FJ1200. Was working brake issues last December but the airplane has taken over and it is languishing. I had a 1981 GS650E that I bought from my dad and rode coast to coast, but sold it years ago.

Hi Bryan, I am very happy with the result too. I get a bit worried about the hinge pin idea, so may add perhaps a wire or cable tie

@@pandyseven By 50 hours flight time I had a lot more fasteners and pins safetied than I did in the beginning!

I am hearing you

You would be surprised how easy it is to find parts for these vintage bikes. I was just thinking the other day, I have my 1928 model A ford I have been putting off, that will be a great build series to do…. give some consideration to videoing the bike, over here they sell for around $7500 AU [5000 USD] for a 1983.

Hey Dan, Good to see you are still on the planet, thought you had been abducted by aliens. The hinge thing works so well, and it is so easy, and simple to do, with the added benefit of replacement, without pulling things apart.

Hi Gavin, I just plonked the RADC in position and wondered which way it went thinking it could go either way, now it makes sense.

YES it is short, but notice how wide it is

Hi Dan, hope all is good on your front. I am not happy with the colour and will probably look for more of a red. Also, the arm rest will have around 25mm diagonally trimmed off the side just to allow the seat the nestle in a bit better.

Thanks John, I will get a darker red not happy with the one I have, its too much like a candy red

Thanks Charles

I could if I had a 3d printer, but the added weight will be negligible and as I am not painting the wings only fuselage, so I have made up for it, if not gained

Hi Bryan, I will change the red, it’s to candy red for me, and also cut back the arm rest off the seat backs.

So fra, so good, but will change the red to a slightly darker red.

Thanks

Thanks 👍

When do you think you will start building? and more importantly what aircraft.

I kind of believe this is where we will all spend most of our time, so why not make it as you say, comfy. I hope it looks and feels as plush when I fabricate the side walls, with a bit of added bling by way of two colours -stay tuned the sides are near completion, thanks Jamie for your comment.

Nice, had a quick look at “hooker harnesses” they are very good quality by the looks, expensive here around $1100 AUD for the 5 point. The more I see your progress on the wings, the more I am busting to start mine.

Sorry forgot to reply, yes it is....I hope my side panels for the interior turn out just as good.

Yes Dave, they have greatly improved the interior space on the B...

As mentioned in the beginning of my video I did say the seat belts are only sitting there so I could gauge the colours chosen, seat belts are secured as per the instructions in the drawings, covered in part #10 of my series. These are not racing seats they are seat cushions supplied as part of the kit sold as an extra. Everything I am doing is part of the design of the kit.

The shoulder harness mounts in a Sonex are halfway-ish down the tailcone. The angles are good.

@@pandyseven Sorry I missed that, my apologies!

Pitch and aileron control only

Thanks, I have a great idea also for the side panels

No I think our asphalt and grass is as filthy as yours. I think for a while I will have protection over the seats.

You are 100% right, spend in those little places that make a big difference.

The base part of the panel is sprayed with epoxy primer in a matte black, and the two sides are acrylic perspex in matte.

@@pandyseven That looks really good

Thanks Gavin

I think it was a pressure crack as in the screws either side forced a bit of bubble up on that part so when tightened down it then cracked?

Hi Gavin, Very similar advice was given by Chris Nash from Sonex, keep this one as a spare and also to dill stop the crack. I was of two minds on how to do the second canopy and was a bit dubious as to use the first one as a template, and as you say the process the second time will be much easier. Chris also when through drill sizes they us, of which will just double check. As far as the oversizing of the holes and keeping the countersunk a bit loose is the advice for Sonex, so that’s what I will do. Keep up the good work and am looking forward to your next video on the cowling.

My screws are not very tight, but you should check them periodically too. We found the first loose ones at over 100 hours, and I tend to check them at annual and glance at them occasionally for preflight. It's a bigger deal to crack the canopy as opposed to losing a screw or two.

@@bryancotton7279 Again, very good advice 👌 👍 🙂