Відео

Been splitting wood for almost 30 years without a scratch, think I'll survive 😊

Thanks for the concern but I've been splitting wood for almost 30 years without a scratch. Im quite comfortable with being able to swing an axe accurately all day, if other people aren't that's cool but if you're going to start using a chicken stick you'd be quicker to just fire up the splitter. I also hit a knot in the 2nd block 😊

Genuine Yamaha

The world would be a better place without computers .ward & manual for the win . Nothing built by CNC will ever become a classic ,as every **** has one

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

Sounds like you had a wonderful childhood!

The rock seems to really bother people in these videos 🤣

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks for the comment! Currently running a 3d printed Airbox that's 1.7 litres with a techno 250 filter. Is there a calculation for working out the optimum volume? I've a few tweaks to do but I think il be hard pushed to get 2 litres fitted in there!

@@owensengineering286 To fit a big airbox, you need to cut away the mudguard and oil tank mounting brackets, the back of the airbox forms the lower part of the mudguard. A VForce reed block, reed spacer, and port changes, as well as a big airbox, transforms a 175.

Ah makes sense. Mine is a Godden framed 200 so don't want to be cutting it, I'll fit what I can into the current space. Currently running a RD350 inlet rubber with a 26mm flatslide and boysen reeds. Definitely makes a big difference. Currently looking out for a spare top end to play around with some porting. Reed spacer is interesting, I had planned to make a boost bottle, a few guys I know swear the boost bottle smoothed out the bottom end and removed the little dead spot before the 175 engine picks up. I guess the reed spacer may do the same job!

@@owensengineering286 Do you know much about 2T porting, and have you got the tools needed to do it? The DT100 reed block fitted to TY175 is very restrictive, and if you can open the intake duct, can be replaced with an RD250/350 block. Most TY175 running issues are due to the very restrictive intake systems fitted. With a large volume airbox, and proper porting changes they can be transformed.

@@owensengineering286 Bigger airbox helps to provide a wider power band. Airbox that is around 3 litres, VForce reed block, reed spacer, 26mm carb, and short front pipe, will improve it a great deal.

Its an old bike, ya gotta tinker with it to make it quick. I drilled out the baffles, and rejetted to 145 mains and now it FLIES up to 75mph up a hill. Fantastic for just a 535

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 👍

Thanks! This one is a Ward 3A

Glad you enjoyed!

Learning as I go on these! Still a few guys who ran them as apprentices around here but the setters are all long gone unfortunately so its trial and error but they definitely still have their place in the workshop even if its just running simple parts to take workload off the newer stuff. Noted on the speed for the dies (y)

Glad you liked it! Always find a job for a good engine somewhere down the line!

Good call! I have great intentions of adjustable feet and castors but it hasn't happened in over 10 years so maybe a simple bolt wouldn't hurt in the meantime :-)

Handy tool to have but definitely started to go up in price. So many scrapped over the years!

Yep, doing a one off would soon add up by the time you allow for setups!

Ward 2A

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for the sub! I have an old Dolmar Sachs 122 super I'm trying to revive at the moment!

Horses for courses I guess but a little engineering knowledge is always easily carried!

@sergio Vasquez you don’t wear gloves because it’s a hazard. Will have more severe injuries when your hand gets pulled into the machine via gloves getting wrapped around the rotating machine parts.same thing with loose baggy clothes and long hair.

In this part of the world gloves are a big no when working with machine tools. Too easy to get caught and sucked into a machine. I do however appreciate the concern for my safety.

Glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Hi Robert, As silly as it may sound are you 100% sure its the correct bolt to start? If so my suggestion would be to first inspect the bolt thread for any obvious damage such as a rolled over or deformed threads. If that all looks good I would next remove the cover and try screwing it into the hole without the cover in place. If it doesn't go in, try one of the other bolts again with the cover removed, this will determine if the issue is the bolt or the thread in the hole. If the other bolt screws in it means the bolt is damaged, the easiest solution is to just pickup another bolt. If neither bolts screw in the threads in the hole are the issue, likely either damaged or gunked/corroded up, you will need to run a tap down them to clean them up. Worst case scenario is the threads in the hole are stripped best thing to do then is use a helicoil. Hope this helps! Regards, Andy

A way to start the thread is to turn it left by hand and you will feel where it begins, then turn right without changing angle until it grips and then tighten.

If running a cold saw is the making or breaking of your business I'd suggest you'd need to take a serious look at your business 🤣

@@owensengineering286 The point was for production. I can cut 20 or so at a time to your one. In your case cold saw is not needed.

and yet you had time to watch the video and comment as well. we are so grateful for your valuable time.

@@RoyMeraki HAHA

Hi Roy, Couple of good points! The correct collet was on order but hadn't arrived in time. We don't have a chamfer tool for the turret and couldn't use our normal chamfer tools in the tool post but yes it would definitely speed things up!

@@owensengineering286 i was a capstan setter owen and the jobs had to be turned out as fast as possible some were produced with two components on one cycle of the turret so stations 1/2/3/ were identical to 4/5/6/ so that the operator didnt waste time indexing the turret past 3 idle stations but its nice to see capstans still turning work out mate x

Helps when theres a fully equipped toolshop with appropriate box cutters and die holders, blah blah blah. Then theres the funky ones for doing the hexes n flats... Most turrets/caps i see now are in scrapyards or delegated to some mediocre job like tap, chamfer, deburr. Only seen one get used properly, sourced from a scrapyard, popping out screws every three seconds or so... darn sight faster than a cnc cycle of three minutes...