Відео

Oh shit, small world! I just got back to NYC this morning otherwise I would’ve loved to try to meet up for a session. Had a couple nice days out there last week - awesome spot!

Brutal top out on this one… just barely figured it out right before we had to leave

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Thank you! Another uptown problem that’s worth the trek!

@@jamesfontainebouldering Definitely want to try it. I've been mostly out of the outdoor game for a while due to weather, then travel, and now a finger injury, but hoping to get back to it soon once I'm healed!

Let me know the next time you make it out!

@@jamesfontainebouldering For sure!

The other boulders around there are pretty spooky but this one is a gem! Wanted to try Crucifixion but it was still ridiculously seeping wet despite it not raining all week…

Hope to see you again soon!

It’s just a couple minutes walk from the park entrance at Dyckman & 10th Ave. maps.app.goo.gl/9hb1oKh9Cstwb49P9?g_st=ic

Haha thank you! Sometimes it’s too cold even for me!

Hey, good to hear from you! This was a bit pumpy but fairly obvious at least - was able to flash it thankfully. Was working on some bigger projects that weekend - hoping to send them when I’m back there next time. Would love to meet and climb again! Definitely want to make it out to Greece eventually - and happy to show you around here some more! PS: you should check out my latest video from today - you should recognize it…

Thank you! Yeah I’ve been getting into crack climbing lately - good crack boulders are a bit hard to come by so I’ve been on the lookout!

​@@jamesfontaineboulderingYou should climb and downclimb and see how many laps you can do. What angle is the wall? the crack looks perfect for finger jams

The boulder has a bit of overhang, maybe about 15-20 degrees which is hard to tell from the video. Definitely made the top more challenging but you’re right, the jams are nice. Finding a spot to do laps would be cool - this isn’t my home location unfortunately. I’m nyc based and have yet to find a good practice crack there… still looking

@@jamesfontainebouldering There IS a finger crack in Central Park…technically…but it’s pretty spicy. V3 X lol

Lmao this is from tonight. I abide by the Magnus philosophy… Besides tonight wasn’t even that bad and I thrive in the cold anyway being bred on New England winters

Hell yeah!! Congrats on the send! Bummed I couldn’t stick around to see it live but hopefully we can climb up at Ft. Tryon next weekend.

Thank you! Had a lot of fun with this one. Had my hand taped like a crack glove on day 2 but couldn’t get enough friction with it so had to take it off and embrace the flappers haha.

Thank you! Definitely worth it although it was hard on my skin. I noped out of trying Maestro Witek after working on this all day lol. So def want to go back. There’s also a V5 variation to this one “Conspiracy Theory” that tops out on the right side that I’m hoping to send next time I’m up there.

@@jamesfontainebouldering Yeah Witek is a STIFF V4 too so I'd definitely want to work that one with fresh skin. Let me know if you head back anytime soon! I'd love to get on French Connection and Conspiracy Theory.

Thanks!! It’s all the practice on the board haha

Lol. Thanks for the spot

Sorry didn’t see this in time. Spent most of today in the Lost Crag area at Dream Time boulder. Probably going back to Mack’s area Wednesday afternoon and might move around a bit depending on how things go.

Haha yeah for sure. I had a couple attempts before that where I tried to get a foot further out right but it was just so slippery and no way I was gonna risk that without a spotter (or likely even with one). Still felt sketchy going left but my plan going into this was to bail left and aim for my pad if I wasn’t 100% confident in any move up there. Glad I got it done but def not the first line I’d recommend! At least now I just have to put down Alabama Leprechaun (hopefully this weekend) and I’ll have everything sent at Arch! (Thanks for your AL beta btw, def not clear where to go in the guides but I agree with where you netted out on it).

@@jamesfontainebouldering yeah those rightward tops could really use some cleaning! Reminds me of when I went to highbridge park ..everything was disgustingly dirty with poison ivy and I just noped out of there. Might be better in winter without so much vegetation but it just doesn’t see any traffic. Heck yeah on AL!! Glad the info helped - that’s honestly my main goal adding to MP. So many people use it as a reference, since for some of these climbs you have to check 3 guidebooks and scour the internet to figure out the intended line. Anyways I hope you crush AL and most of all have fun dude!! You might even find an easier sequence than mine and would love to see the footy either way :)

Thank you!

Many of the gyms do pad rentals including my home gym - The Cliffs at LIC. But some others may also rent closer to the park like central rock.

Thanks!

Thank you! Working on the V4 next time I’m there. Looks really hard but should be doable with some more projecting.

Thanks! Glad to hear it - that’s what I’m hoping for

Thanks! Appreciate the sub! I also know Dante - I was just talking about this problem with him a couple days ago as I’m working on another variation of it. I think the way I top out right on this send is probably a bit more sketchy when pumped than doing the left top out as you describe but it’s how I had always done the flake route so that’s what I went with.

@@jamesfontainebouldering would you keep the rating the same as a v3 given the two alternative routes? and dante yesterday did a really crazy version.

Yes, I think if you finish this with the flake route it’s a V3 whether you top out left or right