Відео

yes there is one kit available for ACL. it has the "advanced" panel so basic footage counter in ft (0-99ft after which it rolls over to 0) and 10 base crystal speeds + double speeds working with thee switch so 20 crystal speeds total. similar variable speed knob than on the basic 2-speed version. with shipping about 1200usd. let me know in fb or ig if wanting to order one

@@alettinen9905 Thanks, but it's unfortunately way above my budget right now. Maybe some other time.

No, unfortunately I can't afford to design these if not getting money back from them and even with the current prices I can just barely manage to get the R&D costs back from these. Have invested between 30k and 40k usd in these motor projects and have to get at least some of it back to buy food and gas. And these things don't have "universal" software and hardware, every single design is totally different and needs newly designed hardware and lots of software tuning and rewriting. Every single design is unique custom made stuff and thus it would be insanely difficult to get a open source version working as intended, it would just need so much tuning case by case that readily available code would be unusable and user would still need to write everything from scratch. Additionally every camera needs different size and shape circuit board with different features so anyone following online instructions would need to be fully capable of designing his/her own circuit and circuit board from scratch and to get it manufactured and assembled, then programmed. Absolutely no use to even try making open source like this as 95% of the design would still need to be made by the end user from scratch case by case. I had plans of making and selling "multi-purpose crystal sync modules" some years ago which the user could purchase and combine them to build a camera motor with different modules roughly tuned for different applications, but it became evident that they were way too difficult to install and understand and get working reliably and standardized dimensions and connections are impossible to use if installing anything inside a camera so I scrapped the plans and chose to make fully finished custom built motors instead. People who use these want to have ready-to-use solution, they don't have any motivation to tinker with programming and electronics designing and instead just want their camera to work so that they can shoot film. (And people who want to make their own motors usually don't actually shoot on film cameras, they may own a camera but their main passion is electronics and programming and not cinematography+filmmaking... so even if making a motor based on open source instructions these people would not use it for actual film shooting. someone who actually would use it would not have skills and motivation to make the motor based on the instructions. So a open source crystal sync motor would be pretty useless project overall, it might be interesting to make one but the people capable of following the instructions are not the same people who actually use cameras so no one would use the motors in the end. ) ...On the other had, I do make electronics designing for people who want to make a camera motor but can only handle the mechanical design of it and need someone to design and manufacture the speed control circuits and circuit boards. That is fully possible and it DOES work as people who have passion in filmmaking are sometimes pretty handy in mechanics and can design ergonomics etc. nicely, they just need someone to make the electronics and software for them. Normally this kind of stuff costs from 2k to 5k with couple of finished installation kits and additionally I will need to have finished motor for reference and troubleshooting. the price depends on how complex electronics and software it needs

Thanks! yes I have partially assembled ones which I can finish relatively quickly when they are ordered, typically takes about a week or so after the payment clears. Have sold couple of them so far. If wanting to purchase these, just send me a DM on FB or instagram to arrange the order :)

Hi! I have one of these in stock which I could sell. the email is at the start of my old showreels, for example this: ua-cam.com/video/-X9byIIePJA/v-deo.html . The motor is so easy to install that it is not necessary to send the camera to me, you should be able to install it very easily and would save lots of shipping costs

I discontinued the project because it would have cost me way too much and people were not interested in purchasing the crystal modified cameras. I would have lost maybe 4000usd if continuing the project so it was not worth it. I didn't have the money and even if had, would never had gotten any of it back. It is common with these projects that they have to be cancelled because people are not interested in purchasing the final products and thus it is way too expensive and risky to complete the project (even if people purchase the end products you still don't create any revenue, but at least you don't generate as huge losses as if no one buys anything and the whole project goes to waste). There is over 10 other projects I cancelled too for exactly the same reasons. Even if using your own money for projects and never expecting to get any of it back, you still have to be able to direct and share the limited resources (time, money, etc) between projects the most effective way. This Leicina project just had too bad price/quality ratio to be viable to continue. I used the resources for other projects like CP16R 1-speed update and Eclair ACL 16-speed motor

Thanks! I have some plans for the ACL but will need to get a ACL camera body first before having any possibility to test it and design it further. Probably will have something for the ACL in 6 to 10 months or so depending on how it goes. If you would only need a variable motor without any crystal sync features or speed stability then even a simple brushed motor with a rheostat controller might work for the application. If one needs similar style of variable speed like in my Konvas controller then it needs to be a real crystal sync system because my Konvas controller's variable speed works using the normal crystal sync circuit for motor control with only the speed reference made with a variable oscillator instead of using a crystal for speed reference (so that it keeps the framerate stable even in variable mode if the friction in the camera changes)

Thanks! I should have the first ones available for sale in January. I will build up more control boxes first and when I have them ready, then it would be possible to send a 15epss motor to me for modification and get the motor back relatively quickly with the Crystal Controller installed. The modification of one's motor and the control box cost together around 800usd + shipping. If interested, there is my email address at the end of my showreel :)

why so? one can get many different looks out of a film camera and this is one of the grainiest ones. it depends on the camera how much it creates gate wave but that can be reduced by the same methods used for rolling shutter artifacts if it disturbs too much. here is another example of stuff I have shot with the Cameflex, it is a mix of Cameflex and the FS7 with for example the first scene shot with cameflex on 5207: vimeo.com/212097418

@@alettinen9905 this clip on its own is just not great footage in my opinion. On the other one, you mention it is much better but without knowing which was shot on film and which was shot on the FS7 it is hard to comment on that, although I did, and said it was good footage and editing. Certainly better than this example.

​@@HelpUsSaveLives ok fair enough I know what you mean. this test footage does not have humans or animals in it so it is not interesting enough for the viewers. Personally I hate shooting those "boy meets a girl and they walk around during magic hour and in city lights" test footage compilations and prefer choosing real material I have shot for other purposes, especially if it is in available light so that one can predict how the footage should approximately look like in the real world. // You can easily differentiate the Cameflex and FS on that short film on Vimeo. The film footage has characteristic dark tone & black response and you can clearly see the grain in most material. The visual style, filtration and grade is also different on the film scenes. Often there is a slight amount micro dust too. For example the 00.08 - 01.25, the 09.00 - 10.50 are shot on film. From 15.26 to 17.00 the Cameflex and FS7 are intercut so that the male character with the cape is shot on Cameflex and the female character dancing is FS7. the drone is Phantom3. From 23.25 to the end it is Cameflex except the female character's eyes which are on FS7

@@alettinen9905 Ok I will take a look. The original footage does not need humans or animals to be interesting. I just found it dark, dull and little color or contrast, the subject was not the issue. I will see the other footage you mentioned.

​@@HelpUsSaveLives Ok so dark, dull and colourless scenes are not allowed to be filmed on Cameflex. You said you love the camera itself, have you used it a lot on your videos?

there is at least the arri to cameflex adapters on ebay every now and then. if you have something special in mind, such adapters can be manufactured by the same shops doing other custom adapters

@@alettinen9905 thank you! I finally found one, a Cameflex to MFT so I can use my Angenieux 12-120mm on my Blackmagic Pocket

@@stephanes. Hey, am looking for a Cameflex to MFT Adapter myself! Would you mind sharing the link to the one you found? Much appreciated!

thanks! I am not willing to publish the code anytime soon. additionally the code only works with the exact microcontroller it is written for (the Attiny85-20) and it is very hard to customise the code to any other application unless you will want to use it exactly the same way I am using it in its original purpose. it is surprisingly time consuming to develop this type of phase locking code, for me it took nearly 4 months and over 1000 tests with the actual motor to get it right so the reasoning for not releasing it for free is that I would want to get my own money (couple of thousand euros) back from the project first. But I am currently developing a new more precise version of the code for PIC controllers and thus I will probably release a very easy to use and simple user installable crystal sync board this year which uses this original Attiny85 based code. So if you are interested in modifying cameras and designing mechanical features for them but not used to programming and electronics designing (you need to learn KiCad to design the circuit boards and every single component needs to be chosen separately based on the application you need it for... extremely time consuming reading datasheets for 50 or 100 different components, especially when some of the sheets can be several hundred pages), this type of user installable system would be much better choice so you don't need the about 1 - 2 year learning curve to be able to design your first own system

thanks so much for the thoughtful response, I didn't realize you had so much invested into this! If you did release something that would allow someone to focus on the mechanics without worrying as much about the code(I completely understand how much trial/error is involved) I would be extremely interested in purchasing. Have you thought about setting up a kickstarter? With the closure of Tobin Cinema Systems a few years back there are very few people/companies for these kinds of mods, and I feel like there's a resurgence of people wanting to shoot on film, but a big desire to do so with sync sound on 16mm as well as people interested in modding/shooting super8 cams as well! I hope to see more of your work as this project progresses!!

@@phillipdetweiler4448 As a follow up, I decided to discontinue the "user installable" crystal sync board project without releasing it at all. By my tests it was evident that the crystal sync algorithm and the rest of the code as well as the whole physical circuit needs to be redesigned for every individual camera to get it working well enough for users to be happy with it. So it proved highly impractical to try to release a "generic user installable board" because it would not work perfectly or even "well enough" on any camera model or application and the users would just be unhappy with it so it would not see any real world use after some test runs. It would be nice to play with it for couple of days but it would not be suitable for any real use and I don't want to make products like that. So it would effectively be "just a toy" and NOT a real world tool one could actually use for making movies. So I discontinued the whole "user installable" crystal sync project because it just did not make any sense to release it. I am now concentrating on only couple of select camera models I am making highly customized crystal sync motors for. designing and customizing a motor for a camera model takes typically at least from 6 months to a year to do properly if one is highly skilled and experienced and can partially use his/her previous designs as a base to save time... and only the highly customized motor controller would work in real life use when actually wanting to shoot anything with the camera so it is basically the only real solution possible

it is about 12 ISO. Perfect for filming in Summer when you would be at about T16 with normal 100iso film

I only have that one camera but my friends have more of them. I just started to redesign the crystal sync system and will probably make the modification to my own camera in June. it will be a 11 or 12 speed crystal modification with a accessory port which enables using a separate controller to have the 1/1000th fps increments available. This is to make the back panel of the camera more compact, the thumbwheel switches just take too much space. I will add a basic display to the separate controller too to monitor basic stuff like the battery voltage and the last take duration. The camera will be completely working without the external box too with a better more advanced end of film warning system and the 11 or 12 internal speeds which are all crystal sync. I am building a video tap to my own camera too because it already has the beamsplitter optics and I just need to adapt a small hdmi camera to work with it . There might be a optical sound recording option coming sometime later :)

thanks! I have done some refining on the design and will post a new video when having tested the new design with the camera. It is possible to make the crystal sync system user installable though it is lots of work to install if it has additional features or if it needs lots of modifications to the rear panel of the camera. I have some "multipurpose" crystal sync systems which are specifically designed to be simple enough to be user installed (for example a 6-speed and a 12-speed model) and which can be adapted to work with the CP16R relatively easily. the main issue with any crystal sync project is that I am continuously running out of developing money which slows down the projects a lot. Thus the CP16R crystal update will probably be available with the current funding in about July or so. if having two paid preorders I could make the finished system in a month or two

thanks! I am working on some brushless solutions as well. Waiting for some test motors to arrive from China so that I can test my software with them. it is pretty challenging to find brushless motors which would have suitable specs for camera use but there seemed to be some models which could work. Brushed motors need slightly less parts to control than externally-driven brushless motors and they have larger adjustment range compared to those brushless motors which have built-in driver boards. The brushless stuff is advantageous if one could use the built-in Hall sensors to get the tachometer signal to the crystal sync electronics so that no additional encoders need to be built and attached to the motor. So it kinda depends on what you want to do with them but generally there is more options with the brushed motors as long as the encoder systems don't become an issue. I will use both when getting the code ready for brushless stuff

@@alettinen9905 Thank you for your thorough answer. I thought of step motors but they a re inheirently noisy. I thought of reproducing the soundproofing of the CP GSMO leadfoil backed with dense neoprene on every interior surface and a simple suspension system -a little crazy for the Konvas , but the Konvas is solid and dense .and my Cameflex is practically a speaker! I also own an Arri 2B witch has a small blimp anyway. -looking forward to your developments!

the machine surface is washed thoroughly after the developing work and the possible chemicals would only be on the lid, they can't get inside the machine :) black and white developing chemicals typically cause skin irritation and some of them can cause chronic dermatitis as well so one should be careful when handling them. The developer I normally use for b/w is Metol - VitaminC based and does not contain Hydroquinone so it is a bit better for the environment. There is around 2 grams of Metol in one liter of developer so the actual chemical amounts are pretty small and there is only couple of grams of actual developing chemicals per liter of developer. Most of the stuff is just base to control the pH and water. Developing color movie film at home is not economical so I am concentrating only on b/w negative and reversal. Reversal process uses permanganate bleach so there is nothing super dangerous in those developers either (no potassium dichromate or other nasty stuffs)

kiitos! omat kamerat ovat kaikki vähän vaiheessa kun teen niihin erilaisia modauksia. Mikä Krasnogorskissa on vikana, niitä on suhteellisen helppo korjata niin voin yrittää neuvoa mitä kikkoja kannattaa kokeilla? voit laittaa vaikka videon jos on jokin monimutkaisempi ongelma. Kaikkein tyypillisin niissä on että filminsiirtoratas on asennettu akseliin väärin, sen huomaa siitä että koneisto jää jumiin eikä vapaudu ennen kuin ne rattaan molemmilla puolilla olevat filminohjausrullat kääntää sivulle. Rattaassa on kaksi eri kiristysruuvia sivulla ja siksi sen voi laittaa väärään kulmaan akseliin kiinni. Jos tästä kyse niin merkkaa rattaaseen ja akseliin missä asennossa se nyt on ja sitten löysää ruuvit, käännä ratasta kiristysruuvien välimatkan verran niin että huomaat että toinen ruuveista ottaa nyt akselin loveen kiinni ja ruuvaa ne kiristysruuvit taas kiinni. (Jos rattaan ottaa kokonaan pois niin huomaat että akselissa on lovi toisen kiristysruuvin kohdalla ja toisen kohdalla ei ole. Eli tyypillinen ongelma näissä on että kameraa kasattaessa väärä ruuvi on loven kohdalla ja ratas jää siksi jumiin sivuohjureihin. Paikkaa vaihtamalla ongelman pitäisi poistua)

@@alettinen9905 Etsin on täysin rikki, tähyslasin prismojen välissä on törkyä eikä näe läpi laisinkaan. Tilasin uuden prisman, saa nähdä onnistuuko, etäisyyttä ei kotikonstein mahda saada tuhannesosamillilleen oikeaksi, jolloin tarkennus tulee kusemaan. Filmiradan rullat ei myöskään tunnu antavan minkäänlaista puristusta sitä pääratasta vasten, kai siinä pikkaisen jousivoimaa saisi olla? Kuvasin silti juuri testikelan tarkentaen mittanauhalla tai äärettömään. Hyvästi satanen!

@@askomiko tarkoitat siis sitä beamsplitter-mattalasi -pakettia joka ihan alimmaisena? sen asemoinnin kanssa on tarkkaa. mutta jos ylemmissä prismoissa on heittoa niin ne saa kyllä säädettyä pois helpohkosti. Eli niin kauan kuin saat mattalasin oikealle etäisyydelle linssistä (sama etäisyys kuin filmin etäisyys linssistä) niin sitten pystyt säätelemään muun etsimen sen mukaan mitä sieltä näkyy läpi. (Etsinputken pystyy myös irrottamaan jos purkaa kameraa osittain. tosin valotusmittarin neula on tiellä eli jos haluat käyttää alkuperäistä mittaria niin sitä pitää varoa. Luultavasti säätövarat kuitenkin riittää ilman etsinputken irrotusta eli siihen tuskin on tarvetta (jos et millään saa etsinkuvaa teräväksi niin silloin voi olla tarvetta. muuten yleensä ei) . ) Eli mattalasi pitää sitten vain jotenkin väkertää oikealle etäisyydelle. Tehtaalla niillä on kai alunperin ollut jokin kehikkotyyppinen työkalu tähän mutta itse värkätessä ei auta muu kuin tarkistaa ensin filmitestillä että linssin matka-asteikot pitää paikkansa (linssin saa tarkennettua kaikilla polttoväleillä äärettömään eikä yhtään yli, ja lisäksi zoomatessa tarkennus pysyy samassa kohtaa) ja sitten laittaa 2 tai 3 metrin päähän siemen starin seinälle, linssin tarkennus lukitaan täsmälleen samalle etäisyydelle ja aletaan säätelemään mattalasipakettia edestakaisin. Sitten kun on lähellä oikeaa niin on myös mahdollista suunnata kirkas led-valo etsinluupin läpi jolloin pystyt heijastamaan mattalasin kuvan toiseen suuntaan linssin läpi että näet sen seinällä. tästä voi olla jotain apua säätelyssä. Jos olet mattalasipakettia irrottamassa niin ennen kuin kosket siihen, tee terävällä veitsellä, esim mattoveitsellä tai skalpellilla tarkat merkit missä kohti se vanha lasi on tällä hetkellä kiinni. Näin saat uuden heti lähelle oikeaa kohtaa ja säätäminen helpottuu paljon. itse käytän mielellään tässä hyvin terävää veistä koska sillä saa vähän tarkemmat merkit kuin tussilla tai kynällä. tuollaiseen alumiinivaluun saa veitsellä hyvin tehtyä viivoja ja muita merkkejä. Säätelyssä varmaan helpointa (kun ei ole käytössä kollimaattoria tai muuta kunnollista työkalua) että avaat aina jokaista mattalasipaketin hienosäätöä varten kameran etuosan ja muuten pidät sen kahdella ruuvilla kiinni. sitten kun saat kohdilleen niin varmistat vielä mattalasin kiinnitysruuvit ja sitten voi kiinnittää kameran etuosan kaikilla neljällä ruuvilla ja tehdä matkatestit linssin kanssa etsimen läpi katsoen. Jos tarkentuu hyvin äärettömään eikä yhtään yli ja tarkennuspiste pysyy samana myös zoomatessa niin sitten pitäisi olla kunnossa ja voit kuvata uuden filmitestin varmistuaksesi asiasta. kannattaa tosiaan printata sellainen Siemen Star, niitä löytyy netistä helposti ja auttaa paljon tarkennuksen hakemista

Bolex on ihan hyvä vaihtoehto Krasnogorskille, esim. tuolla on myytävänä yksi: www.digivideo.fi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=372706

@@alettinen9905 ostin tuon, hieno peli! Nyt enää joku vanha RX-bolexille tehty valovoimainen laajis jostain... Heikosti löytyy edes ebaysta. Tosin adapterillahan saa mitä vain kiinni, jää vain reflex-bolexin erikoisuus huomioimatta.