Відео

Thank you ☺

Thank you for your interest. It's very nice. You made me feel that what I do is important. I appreciate it. I just wanted you to know. thanks 😉

it isn't clay, it's play-doh like material called Plasticine; Plasticine comes in a variety of colors, just like play-doh does, and I've mixed differently colored Plasticine, ending up with this greyish material looking so similar to clay.

Dziękuję

Thanks 🌞

Thanks 🌞

Gracias! También publico materiales en inglés, por ejemplo, en www.etsy.com/shop/BirdMaker. Saludos desde Polonia (no Rusia :)!

Hi.Thanks for your question. First I take ordinary plaster and put some of it on a leaf so that the leaf becomes hard, stable and easy to handle. Then I turn it over. In the next step I use plastecine (a brand of modelling clay made from calcium salts, petroleum jelly and aliphatic acids) to lay a thin layer on the worktop below the leaf and to form a boundary around the leaf. Then I pour in some silicone, covering the leaf completely - I use Gumosil S silicone (approx. 25 Shora) which is produced in Poland, I use this one to cast not only in plaster but also in resin. This way I make the silicone mold of a chosen leaf in this case. Once the mold is produced I make a plaster cast and then I paint the leaf by hand with acrylic paints

Odwracamy liść i pokrywamy go zwykłym gipsem budowlanym zmieszanym z wodą. Odwracamy wzmocniony liść i kładziemy go na plastelinie albo glinie. Chodzi o to aby zabudować przestrzeń pod liściem i uszczelnić tak aby nie dostał się tam silikon. Następnie budujemy ramkę formy tu też z plasteliny czyli korytko gdzie wlejemy później silikon. Ramka musi być wyższa niż poziom modelowanego liścia. Można to zrobić z płyty kartonowo-gipsowej albo kartonu uszczelnionego klejem na gorąco. Gotowy model pokryłem warstwą polsilform środkiem oddzielającym w spreyu. Moim zdaniem nie jest konieczny w procesie ale łagodzi drobne nierówności i łatwiej potem wyjąć model. Ostatni krok to silikon. Tutaj użyłem Gumosil S. Następnego dnia wyjmujemy model z gotowej formy, czyścimy i zalewamy gipsem.

Jose, I'm not an expert in ceramics, I design and hand cast using resin, so though I wish I could offer you some advice, unfortunately I can't.

Blowups are caused by trapped air expanding within the sculpture, or expanding steam from trapped moisture deep within the sculpt. To prevent this, you must hollow the sculpt and allow it to completely dry as follows. After you are done with the general shaping/blocking out, and while the sculpture is still fairly moist, carefully cut the sculpture in half using a wire tool. Then, using loop tools, carefully hollow the two halves until the walls are about 1/4” thick. Score the edges of each side, paint the edges with clay slip (clay mixed with water to the consistency of heavy cream), then press the halves back together, smoothing the joint, blending away the seam, and compressing firmly. Finish final details and surface texture. Use a needle tool or toothpick to create a hole through the wall into the interior hollow area in an inconspicuous place. This allows expanding air to escape from the hollow interior during firing in the kiln. Wrap the finished sculpture loosely with a dry cleaners plastic bag, and allow it to slowly dry for a week or so. Fast or uneven drying can cause the sculpt to crack. When it is completely bone dry and no longer feels cool to the touch, it can be fired without blowing up.

These two additional temporary items serve the following purposes: 1)Thanks to the "chin" it's easier to pull the complete cast out of the silicone mold, you're less likely to tear the silicone layer and hence the mold won't get worn out too soon, especially if you want to use it to make a number of casts. You need to predict which part(s) of your complete cast may rip or tear the mold during the process of taking it out. 2) As for the "ball", you need to bear in mind that I cast my items with a mixture of resin and talc without using a vacuum pump, so there's always some air caught up in the resin and with air bubbles invariably moving upwards in the case of this particular cast the air bubbles mass in the "ball", which I will later simply cut off without leaving a trace on the beak. I hope that you'll find my answer helpful.

Thank you for replying. Do you mean after sculpting one model, you can make replica with silicone? Is that what you're doing at the last part of the video? WOW!

That's right, it's not only about sculpting a bird but also about making a silicone mold and then casting figurines i.e. replicas.

Melvy

Besten Dank

Thank you Esteban. I will keep that in mind.

Hi.Thanks for your question. First I take ordinary plaster and put some of it on a leaf so that the leaf becomes hard, stable and easy to handle. Then I turn it over. In the next step I use plastecine (a brand of modelling clay made from calcium salts, petroleum jelly and aliphatic acids) to lay a thin layer on the worktop below the leaf and to form a boundary around the leaf. Then I pour in some silicone, covering the leaf completely - I use Gumosil S silicone (approx. 25 Shora) which is produced in Poland, I use this one to cast not only in plaster but also in resin. This way I make the silicone mold of a chosen leaf in this case. Once the mold is produced I make a plaster cast and then I paint the leaf by hand with acrylic paints

Hi.Thanks for your question. First I take ordinary plaster and put some of it on a leaf so that the leaf becomes hard, stable and easy to handle. Then I turn it over. In the next step I use plastecine (a brand of modelling clay made from calcium salts, petroleum jelly and aliphatic acids) to lay a thin layer on the worktop below the leaf and to form a boundary around the leaf. Then I pour in some silicone, covering the leaf completely - I use Gumosil S silicone (approx. 25 Shora) which is produced in Poland, I use this one to cast not only in plaster but also in resin. This way I make the silicone mold of a chosen leaf in this case. Once the mold is produced I make a plaster cast and then I paint the leaf by hand with acrylic paints.

U0

Thanks a lot.

You're right. Thanks for your comment. Look at the discussion below to find the answer to your query.

Spirit Walker n 😍

Thanks for your question. First I take ordinary plaster and put some of it on a leaf so that the leaf becomes hard, stable and easy to handle. Then I turn it over. In the next step I use plastecine (a brand of modelling clay made from calcium salts, petroleum jelly and aliphatic acids) to lay a thin layer on the worktop below the leaf and to form a boundary around the leaf. Then I pour in some silicone, covering the leaf completely - I use Gumosil S silicone (approx. 25 Shora) which is produced in Poland, I use this one to cast not only in plaster but also in resin. This way I make the silicone mold of a chosen leaf in this case. Once the mold is produced I make a plaster cast and then I paint the leaf by hand with acrylic paints. I hope you'll find my answer informative.

Thanks alot.

Thanks for such kind words! I'm really glad you've found this video inspiring. Cheers!

+paul hoye I'm glad you like it. Yes, you can buy them - if you're interested, please contact me at my email address modelbirdmaker@gmail.com

You are welcome!