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Glad it was a helpful video!

I personally have landed on using hempseed oil- not many allergies, nice minimal smell, and after treating the wood and leaving it for about a week. You can test oils by spreading some on a plate and leaving it out until it hardens/gets gummy. cherry wood is my favorite- especially from a log that’s been sitting for a month or two, sealed on both ends with a latex paint. The texture is unreal.

Yeah I think that is common- mine is still tricky!

Good question! No- as long as the stone is strong enough so that it doesn’t fall apart and smooth enough so that it doesn’t scratch the item you are burnishing. It’s possible to use other items that meet those requirements, like a deer antler, possibly some glass or porcelain items, the backside of a metal spoon bowl, etc… Just make sure whatever you are trying to use to burnish, you can easily hold, effectively burnish with and be able to achieve a good technique.

Sounds like the perfect use!

Cherry!

Good to know! Thanks for sharing!

Glad this was helpful! You’re welcome!

Great advice! I’ll try it out sometime!

I agree- as a right handed I love the double sided blades.

Hey there! I just looked it up and it looks likely that’s what happened. The original 162 had a circular curve, not a gradual steep-to-shallow curve. When I just just now looked up mora 162 on google, the “162S” showed up which looks like this 164. In this video I am reviewing what I believe was the second version of the mora 164 which was meant to be improved in several ways from the original design.

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo Thanks for the reply! Yeah, mine says “162S”. I’m not complaining, but I have to say your older videos really sold me on the previous 162 being a workhorse, which I eventually leaned towards wanting after watching your reviews.😅 I guess I’ll just have to explore various hand positions to achieve the same type of efficiency. I appreciate your videos, learned a lot - thank you!

Sounds perfect! Plus with double the blade you potentially half to sharpen half as often! (Albeit maybe twice as long when you do, lol)

I just both! The Dante I have is smaller so better for smaller scoops like coffee scoops, the Petrograd is a more gradual curve so better for spoons. Hope this helps!

You are welcome!

You are welcome!

I would say you can burnish before or after oiling. If you are using an oil that polymrizes (hardens) try burnish soon after applying (don’t wait for it to harden/solidify) I have not worked with Bamboo but to my knowledge the fibers are pretty large and could be difficult to get a good burnished finish on

Bamboo is a tricky one- I don’t know how effective burnishing would be at getting rid of that protruding grain. If you do burnish I would try burning in the direction of the grain (the same direction that it feels smooth) Any smooth stone, marble or even the back of a metal spoon could be worth trying to burnish with. You definitely want the burnisher to be really smooth- like glass surface smooth.

Glad it helped!

It has become a necessity for me!

Burnish the design and whole spoon first then oil. The burnishing locks the color-filler into the wood but pushing the wood fibers back down.

Wasn’t meant to be an instructional! I could make one in the future though!

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo oh ok

Glad the video was helpful! You will definitely find the mora to have a better handle than beaver craft. You could try adding to the handle if you like it- either with some sort of tight wrap / grip tape/ or glue wood and carve it down. Just a thought!

Great idea!!

Yeni mora aldım, fakat videodaki gibi kesmiyor. Ihlamur ağacı kullanıyorum. Kuru ağaç. Sorun bende mi?

Yes- I mostly carve greenwood. I keep it fresh by keeping it in sealable bags until I carve it.

Sooo Helmpflicht, thank you! Can you Tell me how you do sealable Bags, please?❤️

@@linaf.3794 Put a piece of wood in a bag and seal the bag. Nothing more to it than that; it’s to slow down the drying process of the wood.

So it’s this no good for hard wood, 😮 sorry but I’m a novice just looking to get started at carving my own spoons and was considering the 164 and 120 as my first kit. What’s your thoughts on that? Thanks

Haha no I am not the “carving is fun” guy.

Hey Daniel, really great question. There are a lot of woods out there and each type of wood has its benefits and downfalls so I say try carving anything, or whatever you can most easily source from around you. I use cherry wood because it’s easier to come by around where I live in Connecticut. I also usually carve it green or wet/fresh if you let a word dry out before carving and it tends to be pretty hard and brittle. Some people like that but I really enjoy Greenwood carving.

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo Thanks for the quick reply. I have seasoned Maple and I'm having nothing but problems, it shreds like coconut husk, if that makes sense. LOL Green wood, that I didn't know Thanks. Cherry wood I'll look to see if I can get some of that where I live. Again thanks Brad.

I could see that happening. Dry maple is really hard, and seasoned maple like that might be too far gone. If it’s dry old branches that have fallen off the tree in the wind then it probably is too old. I really like to find my wood on the side of the road where they have recently done some cutting back, or at parks/hiking spots where they have recently cut back some of the brush or trees. Another great place can be golf courses, they usually have a ton of brush and logs. Just look for a branch/log that is straight with no knots. Like I said cherry is my favorite but birch can also be good, it’s a little softer.

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo Thanks Brad, I'll keep my eyes open for fresh cut.

Hey man! Thanks for the feedback! One of my goals was definitely to be thorough! Hope it helped in some way!

Thanks Joseph! Appreciate that!

Just remember if you are using "linseed oil" make sure you are using 100% edible flax oil only. Boiled linseed oil (which 99% of "linseed oil" are) contains heavy metals and is toxic and never meant for use on surfaces that will touch food!

For the long run I would definitely recommend mounting the strap onto a flat piece of wood. It was shipped folded with which left a crease in the middle and if left that way would definitely cause issues.

Your welcome! I hope you enjoy the new knife! It takes a little bit of adjustment just like any tool but I’m sure you’ll like it!

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo I really hope so. I've begun carving a handle today so I can begin using it as soon as it arrives. If i like this one I might try other versions of the RobinWood spoon knives

Thank you! Cheers!

I burnish with a smooth stone then use hempseed oil which I apply then wait at least a few weeks(the more time the better) before using. A beeswax solution could work well too, I have used cutting board oil/beeswax combo in the past.

Glad I could help!

Thanks! Free hand seem to be the most inspired looking!

Glad to help!

It is the older version- although I did not know they had stainless or carbon.

Hey Tony! I think it is all preference! I also would say don’t totally exclude any type of cut from use, because as you develop your carving skills I think you start to rely on a variety of grips and cuts. You are correct with the left handed hook knife having the cutting edge on the right side. Hope this helps!

@@BradAllenWoodworkingCo thanks man!

The 162 is a machine! Good choice!

Thanks, you too!