Відео

Good question! Thankfully the pin headers the Arduino uses are standard enough for KiCad to have them, so you just have to look (I think in the connectors section, so search CONN_ not header) for a header with 0.1”/2.54mm spacing (and of course whatever number of pins you desire) And then when selecting a part (before you go from schematic to PCB) I think it suggests them for you but you can pick between upright pins, 90 degree angled pins and you’ll actually be able to see them in the 3D viewer

I’m glad I could help and I hope you do well on your test!

@danovation I think I aced it thank you again didn't even come up in the test but is a good bit of info to know

@@Weedfinger Oh that's great!

I was just going to admit to being cooked and walk away, but I had to offer up UA-cam's AI-suggested response for your viewing pleasure lol: - Haha I guess it's always good to have a little extra on hand! (not sure if it was going for the pun here or not but 🤣)

Yeah that would be cool, and if it has more pins than the Micro, you could wire up the joystick buttons as well!

Thanks, that's exactly what I was hoping for!

Yeah my bad I forgot to mention I did get a Windows key as well, just to make the customer experience as good as possible

@@danovation I was being a Wise-acre... that's who I use but of course we can use who we wont. Good info dude.

@ thanks!

That's very odd, sometimes stuff like that happens when the Neopixels aren't getting enough power...does this still happen if you're running it off a computer port or wall power?

@@danovation it still does, yes

It’s called the Arduino IDE and you can get it (for free) at www.arduino.cc/en/software

No of course not! Jawa is a site for selling new and used builds. As mentioned in the video, I laid out every single component, whether it was new or used, and why I made that choice in the description so the buyer could know exactly what they were getting

To be honest, I’m very confused on the PSU new vs used debate. I researched it a bit, and found similar numbers of people with the following arguments: - PSUs last forever, longer than any other component (should be fine to buy them used) - if your PSU fails, it can fry ALL OF THE OTHER COMPONENTS (never buy them used)

​@@danovationI'm really confused about that too (I have never built a PC but I'm thinking about building one)

​@ Maybe just buy a new one to be safe? That's probly what I'll do in the future and I definitely don't want to be the reason your PC build fails...

@@danovation it's crazy how you answer all comments I will subscribe to you thanks

@ haha I try my best thanks for noticing!

Imma be honest, I didn’t know that was a thing (I’m new to this whole pc building thing, definitely not an expert…yet!) But even now, I feel like it wouldn’t be that helpful. If I did the Refresh option, my data would still be on there, so that wouldn’t work. If I did the full Reset option (what I suspect you’re suggesting) then it would be the same as reinstalling windows, and I’d still have to login so I could add the setup guide to the desktop and install the necessary apps Unless I’m missing something, in which case definitely let me know lol

@danovation no you're good I just rather reset the pc before selling so they have that out of box experience as they would with a store bought pre built pc

@ ah yeah that makes sense

I mean I’ll say what I said to the other commenter, I’m very confused on the PSU new vs used debate. I researched it a bit, and found similar numbers of people with the following arguments: - PSUs last forever, longer than any other component (should be fine to buy them used) - if your PSU fails, it can fry ALL OF THE OTHER COMPONENTS (never buy them used) Also it was from a reputable seller and a reputable brand, so it seemed pretty safe…

To be honest, I disagree. I think there are a lot of people selling PCs, but a lot of them are low quality offerings, so if we can influence the current sellers and incoming sellers to create higher quality PCs for people to buy, that would be great!

@@danovation Oh I agree. But we also know that PC components have a mileage rating. Some you will get more use out of than others. But starting with new parts you have a higher guarantee for the buyer. And because of this you can ask a much higher price. I don't build PCs that I can't make a minimum of $500 on. But I guess if you're just starting out and flipping till you can build a super PC then this video makes sense.

Yeah, I already knew with higher and higher ticket builds you make more and more money (that’s just business in general I guess) but making $500 off each build could definitely put you in full time PC seller territory! But yeah a lot of people probably don’t even have the $600+ I spent on this available, so I guess we do all have to work our way up

Yeah you may be right, I actually ended up having issues with the used CPU I got (after the video was finished and posted). 😭

@@danovation Lol and here comes the honesty. I love that! It's fine dude. We make mistakes and learn from them. I would like to see you get more into the software side of things. That way you can diagnose problems before they ever become a major issue. You'll get there eventually. We're all learning this day by day.

Yeah for sure! I did benchmark the CPU for the recommended 10 minutes, and I ran one of 3DMarks tests for the whole build, so I figured it would fail during that stress if it was going to fail at all, but I was apparently mistaken

You could try it but I suspect it wouldn’t be hot enough to shrink it Probly depends on the exact tubing and hair dryer though

It's the Jawa Discord Server: discord.com/invite/jawa

Thanks so much! I definitely recommend it!

The point of the switch is to avoid wasting battery, so if you didn’t have it, even when the blade is off the Arduino would still be on, burning through your battery. You could remove it by simply running the power directly from the battery to the Arduinos VIN, but I wouldn’t recommend it as the saber battery wouldn’t last very long even with it in its ‘off’ state As long as you power the LEDs from the 5V port on the Arduino to the LED 5V pin and from the Arduinos GND to the LED GND, you can just power the Arduino via its USB port and you won’t need a battery. And then you won’t need the power lines, so there won’t be a switch or anything

@danovation Thank you, I have one more question could I use an arduino nano instead of an arduino tiny?

Yes, I actually recommend doing that as the tiny is super finicky and annoying to use!

That’s so awesome, I’m glad I could help bring you into this! So I don’t know much about old hasbro sound modules but it sounds like you’re just powering that module from the Arduino and the module is handling the rest? If that’s the case, programming shouldn’t have anything to do with it, you should probably just power it off the 5V line and a GND pin and then don’t worry about it in the program. If that’s still not working, it may be a power issue (the LEDs suck a lot of current and I don’t know how much your speaker/soundboard needs to run, but that is often an issue). That’s a little more difficult to solve, but as a last resort you could try swapping out the batteries. Not all 18650s are created equal, so you might try to find some that can supply 15A (I don’t know what these are used for aside from lightsabers, so they’re a little harder to get as you have to buy from a saber shop) Or maybe some data does need to be exchanged between the Arduino and the hasbro module and I’m completely missing that, in which case maybe it is a programming issue and we can try to solve that

​@@danovation Hey man! Yeah there's not much programing going on outside turning on and off the LEDs The module already does everything just fine When I press my activation button the first time it turns on and works amazingly, but when I press it again the LEDs turn off but the module doesn't so I have to press it a couple of times to get both off Powering is alright, the battery Im using is 10A max but the LEDs is on half brighness so isn't the problem Really just thinking is a skill issue lol

@ oh I see, you just need to activate/deactive the module so it doesn't make sounds while the lightsaber is in its off state. it's hard to say why it's not working without taking a look at the physical design or the code, but I would guess (since it's inconsistent) that it might be a wiring issue? The programming should be pretty straightforward, if the sound module is connected to a digital port (say D4) and GND, then just activate that port in the activateSaber() function with digitalWrite(D4, HIGH); and deactivate it in the deactivateSaber() function with digitalWrite(D4, LOW);

Yeah good point, I forgot to mention that

Just pirate it

@@Plair32423 If just for your own maybe but if you are selling it to someone NO

Yeah quite aside from the moral implications of piracy (which I would rule it out for), it would be a bad business practice, as they can sell you keys that have already been activated, are blacklisted, or things like that And you might not find out it’s a bad key until the buyer gets it and then they have a terrible experience

I purchased this key from a site called KeysFan, as it was recommended by one of the PC building UA-camrs I watched (ZTT, who has the code ZAC50 to get 50% off for an even better deal). However, one of the other commenters said that this was illegal. I don't think it's illegal, but I'm not sure where KeysFan is getting the keys, so even though there weren't any issues, it's all a bit suspicious...

@ if it doesn’t say it’s authorized it’s illegal i don’t mind but don’t put it in the description to avoid any issues

@ yeah it definitely doesn't say it's authorized... maybe best not to buy from there, I guess

@@danovation i recommend u keep making videos like this one, in 6 months ur sub count will 2x or even more 🫡

Just pirate it, it's super easy you can literally find github scripts to activate windows

thanks man I really appreciate that!

Wow that’s great profit! And I hope your next build goes well!

I'm glad you enjoyed it! I guess 'whatever music you want' was an exaggeration though, as you do have to download said music, which some companies make difficult (for obvious, piracy-related, reasons) There are several ways to download music, however. some sites (like sound cloud or royalty free music distributors) simply let you. some (like Apple Music on Mac) kind of let you, you just have to copy the files out of where the app puts them. You can also download the audio from a UA-cam video from a number of sites, though this is somewhat sketchy. Personally, I think that if I pay for a license to listen to music on Apple Music, there's nothing wrong with listening to that music on other devices, including this clock. (It's not costing them anything additional, as I'm still paying for the service. In fact, it's cheaper than listening to it on my phone or whatever as they don't have to stream it out to me.)

@@danovation thx

Glad I could help!

What components are you worried about? I know CPUs last for quite a while, graphics cards might not last as long but often the price savings are so much that I probly wouldn’t buy them new The worst one was probly the PSU, because even though they last a long time, a failure is so bad that you really want to avoid it. In this case it was a seller with very good reviews who had cleaned and tested it, so I thought it was ok

Yeah that seems fine, if it works it works! (of course I've never actually had that mount it was just a picture off Google)

Oh I didn’t think third party resellers were illegal, though it is a bit suspicious that they are so cheap… I used a site called Keysfan which was recommended by a pretty popular PC building UA-camr so I figured it was safe to use. Maybe I was wrong though? I’ll have to look into it more I suppose

@danovation It is safe to use I believe, but it isn't the most legal way to activate them. As far as I have seen a lot of pc flippers use them, so you probably won't get in any trouble. And also I will try Keysfan, thanks.

Yeah that definitely helps with the time problem, though I feel like those are harder to find… How do you go about finding them? Just FB marketplace?

How consistent is it?

The joystick footprint already includes the switches, so you can see if you're in the PCB editor that there are 4 pins that line up with where the switch would be. Between 2 of those pins you'll see an open switch symbol, kind of like _/ -- if you connect the pin on one side of the switch symbol to the ground plane and the other pin to a port on the pico (using a trace), you'll be able to read when that button is pressed. The main tricky part will simply be figuring out how to rout all of the traces as they can't overlap (unless you want to add more layers to the board which makes it more expensive), and you'll have to do all of those traces for the whole pico as its ports will be in different places than the Arduino micro. As far as the code goes, it's just figuring out what the button is named and doing the exact same line of code for the joystick buttons as I did for the other buttons.

@danovation oh this sounds dreadful to figure out lmao. Thanks so much for your help

@ sure! it's not that bad, but it is quite tedious...you can definitely do it though!

@danovation alright thanks so much! This would be my first project that involves pcb and soldering project

@@danovation 1 last question though. I'm making a handheld. If I were to split the pcb in 2, and connect both halves to the same pi pico, is that viable?

thanks, I appreciate the encouragement!

yeah I even messaged with the seller and they answered, but it was definitely too good to be true, and I should've known better

ah man! Why didn’t I think of that! (cause I’m not a monster lol)

That’s amazing, especially for a budget build (those can be a lot harder to make money off of)

​@@danovation I agree but im making huge profit from this one

@ yeah exactly! great job man!

Yeah I know that now ☹️

That would probably be an even better experience for the customer, thanks for the tip!

I mean they have to cover costs so I do understand, BUT if you can sell on FB marketplace or especially do payment in person, you _will_ make WAY more

it's a fair point to make at first glance, but tbh the amount of people that will watch this video is not going to make much difference to the PC building/selling market as a whole, and very few (if any) of the people who watch are going to start selling PCs. hopefully the ones that do, do a good job of it and help the industry become better!

@@danovation I know its a small amount of ppl on only 1 persons video, but when you add up all of the countless pc flipping channels, it can make it seem like its just so easy to do it and make money, and its just gotten ridiculous lately, esp this past year. I myself have been selling for a few years, and from the time I started until now the market seems like its 20x what it was, mainly from youtube channels obviously. I myself have tons of ratings, reviews, and past sales that ppl can look at so my business hasn't really dropped off much, but I do get multiple messages weekly from ppl in my area who just started selling and are asking me why I'm able to sell so much stuff and their stuff isn't selling after months and I have to explain that they have no selling history, and with all the scammers out there if you don't have any selling history then no one will trust you, esp when there are soooo many other sellers out there now who might have similar deals but also have no selling history

Most people will try for a few pcs then give up, it’s not great money considering the time input

@ that's definitely true so far in my (very) limited experience, but there are obviously examples that disprove this (people making businesses building PCs) so it may be that you just need enough scale to make it worth it (buying things in bulk, being able to re-use things like setup guides, and so on)

thanks for your kind words! I hope you have a great time building and selling PCs and I'm very glad if this video helped you! I am working on my recording set up too so I can be a bit better lit, so good point there too!

im having a little trouble understanding your comment but I'll give it my best! 1 - if you spend $1000 on parts then yeah, you could definitely build a much better machine! (but you would have to sell it for a lot more to make a profit, like $1300 or $1500) 2 - yeah I made very little money on this if you consider the hours 🤣 but that wasn't really the point! I was really just trying out this hobby, and I'm definitely glad I did as I learned a lot and I know I could make more in the future with what I learned 3 - yeah it's sad that Jawa is US only but it's very hard to ship overseas so I do understand that completely

@@danovation hard where? this days i wait for a build from canada it needs till today 8 days today at 1am it comes to frankfurt germany so its in 2-3 days at my home its not hard it costs only much shipment (: but in this case its okay because i save here 300$ and pay 50$ for shipment so i am 250$ (245ish€ less then EU for a pc for a friend.. was it worth? i hope so if its working at end yes! if not i repair it at my own. if not i scrap it and sell the parts and use the money i get for his pc :D

ur the definition of the angry redditor

Thank you! I look forward to making more!

Yeah good point about the case! And yeah, it's really cool that you can make money even on your first build, and definitely increase it as you get better!

thanks so much! I think they definitely will be better now that I know more of what I'm doing, as I'll work a lot faster

thanks!

well at least I tried 😆

don't worry it doesn't actually contain nitroglycerin

Thanks! And definitely a good point about selling locally, it would’ve gotten me close to $100 more if I didn’t use Jawa. Probably highly dependent on where you live