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Question! 06 duramax but i assumdbits the same. Should all Class 2 data be 7 volts. And the high and low high speed gmlan should each be 2.5V. been hunting for this problem for too long and to much money. Appreciate any help

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Mine makes it sound similar when I first start the vehicle After a vehicle is warm it goes away Any idea what that could be?

Good 👍😊

Ive been scratching my head for months, i never even considered that replacing it with a cheaper cover was possibly causing the high oil consumption

Can you explain how you wired your oscilloscope or multi-meter to the splice pack?

you kow anything about sending custom values across the GMLAN, what IDs are not in use and interfacing to compared to a two wire can bus?

Hey I have a 03 GMC Yukon Denali, tow truck driver jumped the battery backwards and now the vehicle starts n but shuts off after a second. Only have history codes for no communication to instrument panel, HVAC, and PCM/bcm would testing this splice pack lead me to the fix

Do you know of a place to have the repair done in San Diego County CA? I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna with power doors and wheel chair lift. Trouble opening and closing doors.

But my passenger side sliding door isn't electric. ?

U1000-13 code on a 2007 2500hd 6.0 classic. Is this the same for that code?

Awesome video on explaining class 2 diag. Thank you

Hey I’m only getting 0.50v on purple wire pin 2 any idea ?

posted my ridgeline online for parts, had 50+ people offering money for it (1500$) changed my mind, noise it is making is very similar to the one in your video, i did put dayco timing belt kit on it about 70000km before, hopefully i have same problem, maybe get couple more grand for the thing :)

What’s crazy is that my mom drives an 09’ Honda pilot, with the I-VTEC 3.5 liter V6, also didn’t know that it has 3 catalytic converters, free money. How do I make it louder

HELLO FRIEND I HAVE A TOYOTA PORTE AND I HAVE A PROBLEM THAT IT DOESN'T CLOSE IT JUST OPENS THE DOOR AUTOMATICALLY BUT IT DOESN'T CLOSE WHAT COULD BE WRONG ACCORDING TO YOUR EXPERIENCE

Thank you brother. I work on a body shop and had one of those was. Nothing but a pain in my . Thanks to you was able to fixed 🤲🏻

What is a normal voltage range for the modules on splice pack 203?

Buenas noches, me gustaría saber si usted hace ese tipo de reparaciones para una Sienna 2008 que se le dañaron las 2 puertas eléctricas…

Is this splice pack 203? I’ve been looking at wiring diagrams and it never tells you where any of these packs are located. That’s for the video this could be what’s wrong with my tahoe. I'm guessing that connector plugs straight into the BCM under the dash? I'm trying to troubleshoot a similar problem on my ride. No rear locks, headlights not working etc.

Thank you for this post. It led me to my sudden increase in oil use. Here it is 7 years after your post and O'reilys sold me a bad one for my 2005 2.5 Altima. I replaced it and it hasn't used a drop since. I contacted Corporate and they never said they were sorry or that they plan to do anything. I will never buy from O'Reilys again

Thanks so much for this video, found the problem in no time because of it. You're the man!

Thanks for the info

Replace door handel

Had the same issue, this repair worked perfectly! Ordered the diodes off of Amazon for just a few bucks. Repair took about 10 minutes total. Make sure to note the original polarity (striped side of diode orientation) and replace the new diode according to the same polarity.

you may able to help this a long time coming. Short story if I use my windows at the same time it will put the truck into Reduced Engine Power. All ground have been cleaned and replaced. What else could this be? It gives me a U1000 code with it but my reader won’t dig deeper.

Finally ran across this video after being confounded by the dome lights in front of my kid's 2011 Santa Fe. I'm not a great solderer but managed to make this repair fairly quickly and it worked great. Thanks for making it simple!

I have a 2004 chevy 2500hd 6.0L it starts then dies in like 2 seconds I have no communication, but there’s power at my OBD2 port. I have no highbeams my windows and locks don’t work. I check all grounds and cleaned them. Any idea what to do now

Thanks for the video Have you had any experience with the Aisin timing belt kits ?

Ty!

Terrific explanation. I just tackled this project tonight and yeah... Those two screws are lock-tighted in like no other! The tip to heat the screws was great. I used a small butane torch and it worked for one, but not the other. Trying to be careful, I eventually melted the plastic housing on the actuator and then the nut just started spinning inside the melted actuator body. Ultimately, I took a Dremel tool with a 3" thin routing bit and just carved the screw out of the actuator body. This was actually much much easier and quicker than trying to carefully heat the bolt. Still had to buy two new M7 bolts, but better that than dealing with stripped out screws. Good luck everyone!

Most excellent. Thank you so very much!

Thanks so much customer drop off a truck for no start only for 2 sec and then nothing so just pulled chip and not getting any voltage but .1 to .4 out of every prong

Awesome video. I have comm with everything except pcm power ground good any toughts

I can only start gmc van and sercurity light flash and function correctly

Thanks Rico - your video is still helping people out 6 years later! I fixed one door actuator on my 2005 Sienna several years ago using another video that removed the inside panel and involved clamping the window in place. Yesterday I fixed the other door using your approach. Not having to remove the panel or touch the window eliminated some of the risky/difficult steps that I previously followed. It really just left the difficult task of removing the two screws and then getting them back in again. I was able to complete the task using a phillips screwdriver, a ratcheting socket wrench with 10mm socket, 5/16" socket and phillips screwdriver head, a stubby screwdriver and a soldering iron. There are quite a few other videos/approaches out there which was a little confusing although some of the answers to the questions below helped so hoping the following may further help others (who will still need to watch your video and a video on replacing the motor) if any of these vans are still around: 1) Remove the housing around the door controls - take out two phillips screws, pry off the housing, and disconnect from the white harness 2) Remove the one screw (5/16" socket) holding the upholstered door panel and pop the panel off. I start popping it off near the door controls and worked my way around the door. It did take some force to get the first fixing to pop out. 3) Remove ALL 9 screws (10mm socket) from around the edge of the inner black panel - only the 9 screws around the edge not the ones in the middle 4) Do not remove the triangular piece of trim from the window, do not remove the two grommets and do not remove the two bolts that attach the panel to the window mechanism 5) Detach the actuator arm from the opening mechanism and disconnect the black harness from the actuator 6) Carefully ease the black panel out a little so you can get your hand in behind it 7) This step is the most difficult and requires a ton of patience and then some. Using the tool that Rico has or a ratcheting socket wrench with a phillips #2 screwdriver head behind the panel - get the screwdriver seated onto each machine screw that holds the actuator - this is done using feel as you can't pull the panel out far enough to see behind it properly. Once you have the screwdriver seated into the machine screw on the back, heat the screw (brass coloured) with a soldering iron from the front side of the panel. Keep testing whether the screw will turn - it may take 30 secs to a minute. Once it turns you can carefully unscrew it. This may take multiple attempts - I think it took me more than 10 goes until it was out far enough to unscrew with my fingers. The loctite will need reheating each time. This was not a quick process for me but by taking my time I managed to get both screws out without damaging the heads. 8) Remove the actuator unit and either replace the whole thing or replace the $5 motor (Digi-key p/n P14346-ND) inside it by removing the 3 screws to open the actuator (other videos on this step) 9) Reattach the actuator to the panel by feeding both screws through the panel from behind and lining them up with the two screw holes in the actuator. Tighten them up as much as possible by hand so that they won't fall out. I reused the screws that I had taken out. Then using a stubby (which seemed easier than the ratchet for tightening the screws), get the stubby seated into the screw head and begin to tighten. You may need to apply heat again from the front as the loctite may lock the screw up again. Getting the screws back in was much easier than taking them out. 10) To finish off reverse steps 1 to 6 and do them in reverse order. The outer door panel seems to go on easier by feeding the rear end of it in first as it needs to go under the trim at the back end of the window. The above took me longer than what some others have said, however, it didn't involve drilling anything out or cutting anything which was my preferred way of doing things.

Please reply back with part number .I have same problem

I have a grand Dodge caravan 2004 in the door came off track. How do you fix it or can I fix it or do I need a mechanic? Show me a video

Amazing video! You have explained the serial data line and it’s operation very well. The problem that I’m having is that I’ve done an interior swap from a 05 which runs a class 2 serial data line to a 09’ interior including window switches/modules in which run a GM low lan line, said to be consistent with a normal class 2 line. Module has both power and ground but unfunctional. Is there something that can done to make the 09’ module work on the 05’ serial data line? Need help figuring this out please!

Rat chewed coil wire causing it to short to ground on 05 chevy astro 6 cyl. Now I have a problem which I believe is a PCM problem. With such high positive voltage arching to ground my scan tool only shows 4 cyls. I replaced parts. But when I go to data stream tool only shows 4 cyls when it used to show all 6. I can not find info on how to test the pins for the PCM. Also didn't see any damage to the wiring harness. So best guess is the PCM was damaged due to the high voltage arching to ground.

Having a major inconsistent issue in my 03’ silverado I can’t figure out. Is there a way I could contact you for input? Not very familiar with GM class 2 & need some help!

Do you have a video to fix a manual sliding door that won't open? I can't even get to the screws to open the panel around my handle😢

Thank you for this video.i learned more on this video then the last 10 videos I've watched combined I also subscribed to your channel 👍

i know this is old but i just watched it and it explains alot of things about what is going on with my s10 cluster is goofy half the guages work

Concise and to the point, unlike scanner danner whos all over the place.

Really great video you saved me lot of time and hassle since I was going to remove windows motor

The Honda engineers design the warning timing belt kits need to be replace ASAP

That is loud. Got dang. Mine makes a noise almost similar but not that loud. And it sounds like the end of the video. So i guess my car is fine? However, whenever i step on the gas it increases the rattle noise. Some folks are saying bad serpentine belt tensioner.

Wow super

As soon as you turned on the Truck I just thought “Timing-Belt tensioner.” We have the plenty of Honda/Acura vehicles with their venerable J-series V6. And the timing-belt tensioner noise is a good indication that the timing-belt job is needed.