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HINT SLICE
Приєднався 14 чер 2023
I make helpful videos for you. Thanks for watching and subscribing on this channel.
"There's nothin' you can do that can't be done"
Have a good day
"There's nothin' you can do that can't be done"
Have a good day
crankshaft blind hole bearing removal
how to remove blind hole bearing ?
mazda6 2.2 mzr-cd
Music from: creatormix.com
#BlindHoleBearing
#bearing
#mazda6
mazda6 2.2 mzr-cd
Music from: creatormix.com
#BlindHoleBearing
#bearing
#mazda6
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Відео
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This engine is crazy.......
Why u just didn't remove whole engine and fix the issue on the bench ? 10000x better.. u stripped the whole engine.. .jesus
Hi. Thanks for your video but it doesn’t do the job. There are a lot of steps that you are not showing. I am also in the middle of this operation and I just cannot take the manifold out. It’s impossible. I only took the first 3 parts out..cleaned them and that’s all. I cannot take the main part out. I almost took the whole engine out. I’m just quitting.. I’ll clean as much as I can and that’s all. Good luck guys.
Hi. Do you do this steps that is in the video on 2:02 and 2:59 ?if yes then you should be able to take the manifold off.Regards
Tolles Video,ohne Gelaber 🎉
danke schön
I’ve done mine a couple of times now and it keeps leaking from the rocker cover o rings. I haven’t used genuine vw ones though..so wondering if that’s my issue. They seem to be soft where as I would imagine they should be pretty stiff? Any help is appreciated
Yep original ones are more like stiff rather then soft, so you can feel some resistance while installing injectors. So the problem may be in: 1)quality of the seals. 2)high crankcase pressure (mostly because failing injectors copper washers, clogged PCV valve, bad pistons rings, failing turbo). 3)Too high level of the engine oil. So i think you replaced injectors copper washers? so we can eliminate that option of failure. Sometimes When can't trust the quality of sealing or gasket i just use some good sealant, but as you can see in the comments some people are against that. And I got a call from a man who replaced the gasket, o-ring, etc. on his 2017 seat alhambra and still has the same leak from the same places and he told me maybe he should have used some sealant and I said hmm ... maybe
@@HintSlice yeah I have been told before to use a sealant haha! Any particular brand ?I’m in the uk. & I have swapped out my pcv for an oil catch can, seems to be working fine. 2 things I’m thinking is the piston rings causing positive pressure or the gaskets..but like i said I fitted some that came with the new rocker cover and they wasn’t vw original lol
@@karlossmith3714 I'm usualy using Victor Reinz VR 70-31414-10 if I want to be sure that everything will be ok and also it dries faster then other sealants. And onother one is Elring EL 006.553 I have no problem with this one also, but it dries up a littel bit longer wich maybe gives you more time to ajust details. Sometimes I use copper Permatex for the cylinder head gasket etc. I think that is more like rocker cover leak rather than something is wrong with the piston rings. Any way whatever sealant You gona use, just remember degreasing surfaces is crucial moment in this job everything must be 100% clean! you can use some brake cleaner or carburator cleaner but carb cleaner is more agresive to ruber parts so be care full.
@@HintSlice okay. Something I have got is a rocker cover off an Audi a4 avant 2,0. It looks the same as mine without the long spout for the oil filler cap. The injector gaskets look the same but I know the injectors on the Audi are bigger. Does bigger mean as in thicker or is it just the nozzle that squirts the fuel is bigger?
Very good video
Thank You
From where we can get the crank shaft oil seal covee with seal like this
I get this from auto parts store
So recently had the dreaded cp4 hpfp give way on my 520d so have replaced pump with brand new unit,replaced injectors and cleaned out system. Car now runs however when i floor it, it throws up fault 247500 fuel pressure plausibility but goes away when car is stopped and restarted🤷♂️anyone experience this?
Hi. Do you install new injectors? Because i was reading about this fault and the reason was in one of the injector it was draining to much fuel in to te return line insted of supply and this fault apears like in your case when accelerating.
@@HintSlice hi fitted one brand new injector and 3 used injectors from a low mileage 13 plate 520. I took the car for another run this evening and hammered it up through the revs and it was absolutely fine so i’m hoping it was just a glitch🤞
@@glenspence6016 ok then, good luck on the road✊️
Thank you for this video 👍🤜🤛
I'm glad if that helped you to do the work✌️
I just replaced my turbo with this video, thanks so much good job💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I'm glad that it helped You to do the Job.✌️
Amazing video. Extremly helpful. Where do you get the instructions manual to remove/replace the parts ?
Thank You. Its from scribd and technicalsite
Buen video ......gracias
De nada;)
Thank you for this Sir. I'm doing this job on my car this weekend. Extremely dirty.
Glad I could help and good luck in your repair.
its a heating element
Yep.
Hello, sir! Do i need to bleed the injectors by loosen up the nuts, even if i do it from the vcds with testing the fuel pump? Thank you?
Hi. No there is no need to loosen injectors nuts if You are using vcsd .
with what did you clean the tips of the injectors ? :D
I don’t remember exactly, but maybe it was a plastic brush with plastic bristles
CRLB engine too, How old was that Skoda ? Done lot mile to be fair to it.
It's 2017
Написано парт 1 , а где парт 2 ? Я не нашёл…
Ок. ua-cam.com/video/qz_pTONZ3CU/v-deo.htmlsi=8En-jbeTGHBYdt51
Is this the common reason for the oik leakage at the back of the engine that i have heard and also saw at my ceed?
Yes it can be the reason.
@@HintSlice I have a Kia optima 2012 1.7 CRDI leaking oil some place under the air Intake Manifold apparently the head gasket but only in high pressure, when its parked no oil under; maybe it needs to be replaced, the 2nd problem is oil escaping from the rocker cover with the gas going back to Turbo (air intake) and it looks like it go to intercooler and back to intake manfold again, no one can figure out where the issue comes from, any help will be much appreciated.
@tawilleennis mostly this leak could be only from valve cover. But it also can be from intake manifold because it made from plastic and have a rubber sealing gasket, and don’t forget about the EGR that supplies hot air straight to the intake manifold, which can cause its deformation. And don't think that this leak is from the head gasket.
@HintSlice sorry what valve cover? There is a lot of oil around head gasket but no oil in water cooler, my issue is losing about 1l for every 1000km, also the pipe coming from the rocker cover back to turbo trough some oil with air I don't know if that's normal
Do you have also a power loss. If yes then you need to Check turbo impeller shaft play maybe your turbo is failing.
Which year is this Passat from? And why do you loosen the cam sprockets?
1)Year 2007. 2)Because sometimes i follow the workshop manual and by loosen cam bolts you get right tension on the timing belt and synchronization between camshaft and crankshaft
hello, can u tell us part numbers of this gaskets, oem or erling
Ok. Big o-ring OPEL 650472 97189134 General Motors. Small rings 06 50 473
What mileage did it have? I have the same engine in a Golf 7, how can I avoid getting to that?
It have over 400000 km. I think the main reason for this problem is High temperature inside of the manifold because of the EGR system. How to avoid this maybe by deleting EGR... but its complicated.
Hello. Just asking, cranckase gases could escape from under copper o-ring into valve cover? Or does this engine separates injectors from space under valve cover? Got same engine, got gases problem and wondering, if replacing copper o-ring could help me solve the problem....
Hi. Yes this engine separates injectors from space under the valve cover. If gases escape from under copper o-ring they go straight to the outside so you will hear it. Most likely you need to check for the carbon buildup inside of the intake manifold. Not long ago i was cleaning intake manifold from the carbon buildup on this engine, it was not much carbon inside, like on tge VAG cars:), but it was there. maybe this is the reason
@@HintSlice EGR Valve shuted off and cutted out 80k km ago, so, no intake problems.... probably, my pistons are toasted (((( No oil leaks, engine doesn't consume oil at all, only gases and a spoon of oil on turbine-intercooler manifold (((( Thanks for the answer
@venomarVe No problem
Is this the CRLB engine code?
Yes
@@HintSlice then it is 8nm + 270 deg turn
@michakotasiak9637 thanks
Is this the CRLB engine code?
Yes
This is very helpfull. Could you please do more videos with the 3.0 TDI engine ?
I'm glad that it help you. I have some material on this engine but it takes time to make a video in this style. and not always i want to make it
ua-cam.com/video/N5JzDm3JRtA/v-deo.html
Man, I was watching those videos on how to remove intake manifold from Americans - those were more then an hour long. I got lost after 15 minutes ;) Here I see everything in 5 minutes and I know where to go and what to unbolt! Great job man! Greetings from Poland :)
Thanks. That is the goal of my videos straightforward and to the point, No "hello guys today we gonna.... and blablablablabla.....".
My cp4.1 has just fsiled f11 n47. Ppl say i must replace whole fuel system as metal will fit through the diesel filter. Whats your experience with that thought mate
first of all you need to check the injectors on the test bench for the damage and if injectors fail replace them. Then you will have to clean: all fuel lines, fuel tank, electric fuel pump in the fuel tank(most of the time electric pump is not damaged), change the fuel filter, change high pressure fuel pump, bleed the fuel system, start the engine and You Ready to Go.ua-cam.com/video/qz_pTONZ3CU/v-deo.htmlsi=EAcRcWXPTx0aj5FJ
@@HintSlice I think the issue also is that the F10/11 saddle tank only opens on one side unlike your BMW. Any ideas on cleaning the side with no access?
@@caldwell1981ac First, what came to mind was to take it off and flush. A second option without removing the fuel tank is to try pumping out all the fuel with metal shavings and making something like a bigger version of the cotton buds to clean inside the fuel tank. Of course, if there is enough space to do this procedure.
Hi can hpfp be replaced without timing tools as its on a keyway and the special tool holds the sprocket?? Many thanks
@@glenspence6016 yes glen you need to remove the sprocket cover at the back of the engine. It's a 17mm spanner cap. Then insert fully the sprocket holding special tool. Then with tool in place remove the torque in the center remove pump. Timing tool remains untill new pump is fitted.
Thank you very much good job
I am very glad that I could help
Muy ilustrativo el vídeo saludos
Gracias. Y puedes ver este video ua-cam.com/video/JojkMqm8EzA/v-deo.htmlsi=ysTqFKFN9np5AS-3 tal vez para un poco de ajuste de torque, ya que los motores y el turbo son casi iguales. Thank you. And you can check this video ua-cam.com/video/JojkMqm8EzA/v-deo.htmlsi=ysTqFKFN9np5AS-3 maybe for some torque tightening, as the engines and turbo are almost the same
Silikon on gasket...omg you CANT do this!!! All work u done is uselles because of silikon on rubber gasket..
...and to this day this car has no problems with oil leaking from this valve cover and injector seal, so yeah it was very bad idea ;) if you know how to use good sealant properly and what you need to do before you use it on the surface, then everything will be ok. Sealant full Curing time (23°C): 24 h Just tell us your story of "omg you CANT do this!!!"
Schematics say theirs a second diamond coated washer on the inside a bushing. Did not find one on mine during tear down only the o-ring. Also noticed that you didn’t film replacing this supposed second diamond coated washer Wondering if some don’t have it
The second diamond washer was there, trust me there was two of them 18:28 . It must have two of them because they prevent bushing from rolling by itself (for sure). Maybe yours fell into the oil pan try to find it with a magnet or maybe someone didn't install it on a previos change, before You.
Cheers on the reply. Rechecked your video at the time stamp and definitely only shows the one diamond washer which is on the vibration dampener (which is on mine too) but not the second washer on inside of flange. either way I do believe what you’re saying about replacing two of them. Am doing a full engine rebuild after the common piston fault that these ea111 engines get Appreciate the info, also well done on the video 👍
I'm glad if this video help you at least in something. So i was watching some videos about timing chain replacement and it seems that no one mentioned this diamond coated washers maybe there are bushings with diamond coat on it or whatever... To be honest i was never paying attention to this until i decided to make this video)
And i wish You luck in everything You do
Interesting. Can’t seem to find any replacements for sale either Should be alright without it considering the one washer and oring on inside of flange if the main function is to stop it moving on its own Appreciate it and same to you. Good luck with future endeavours
Hey, nice video, which bolt number for the fuel filter? Is it possible to close it only by hand ?
Thanks. You mean this WL81-13-ZA6 water level sensor. It is possible to close by hand but there should be no gap between the head of this bolt(sensor) and the filter
One of the best tutorial video. Nice highlights of the bolts etc.
Thank you
Thank you for this video - I was just looking for such material! Tell me one thing - did injectors come out so easily or you struggled to remove them and recorded a video after you previously made them loose? I am afraid of stuck injectors, but have to replace the gasket since it is severely bleeding oil. No stains yet, but I have a technical inspection in one week and suppose someone will be complaining about this.
I was also worried about how they would come off, but it turns out they came off pretty easily no struggle at all , maybe because no one washed that engine twenty thousand freaking times a day like some clean engine enthusiasts ) and also this injectors have O-ring seal so the water or any dirt should not come in between them and chamber .
I hope you sucCEE'D
@@HintSlice haha, thanks mate, Hyundai team here ;)
@@HintSlice hi, one more thing - did you extract injectors on hot or cold engine?
Hi. On cold
Cp4 Bosch+Diesel=☠️
Invented for Life : )
Amazing video apricate your effort , I know you dont want the video gets too long but please slow down the video speed a bit, also very important informative if you mention the video description important parts or tools for preparing before start, I notice you used certain covers and screw it on they were different colours too, if you dont mind to mention them on reply to me and what ever anything else needed before start. is there any second part? Do I need to change injectors ? how will I know it's needed to be change? Many thanks
Thanks. I was using: 10mm wrench to undo electric harness 10mm socket 3/8, 1/4 to undo valve cover 12mm socket to undo bolts of the injectors Needle nose pliers to remove spring clamps from te injectors fuel return line Torque wrench Grease to grease up injectors, ceramic grease is commonly used but i was using copper grease Coloured covers are from hand sprayer and white covers are from selant torque Tightening : Injector clamping piece bolt 28-30Nm valve cover bolts 7.8-9.8 Nm So the reason I do all this stuff in the video was valve cover gasket leak and you won't be able to take off valve cover without removing injectors (in my case they were fine) and according to manual you need to replace copper washers every time you remove injectors If you have some issues with injectors the work of the engine will be unstable.
@HintSlice Thank you so much you are sound really appreciate. Keep up the good Job
@trysam and one more thing if the injector washers are failing you will hear it and you will see it because the part of the engine compression will be coming straight out of the the injectors chambers.
And one more thing anicetussk.best/product_details/81624738.html you can use this diagram to tighten valve cover i didn't mention that ther is two steps to tight this cover. And I think you noticed that whole video is reversed so you can download it from youtub and re revers it and you will get a video about how to install valve cover and injectors i think this is the part two of this video in it self
@HintSlice Yes it's very important step actually the same its important how to unscrew it
Thanks for this great tutorial. My question is with the injectors. I understand that I first open the fuel pressure nut of the first injector while the other three nuts are closed. I activate the fuel pump with 12v for a few seconds and close this first nut. Then, I loosen the nut on the next injector and start the pump again. I repeat this procedure until all 4 injectors are complete. So, only one nut is loose at any given time. Is that correct?
Hi. Yes that is correct
There is another way maybe even simpler is in this video on 11:12 ua-cam.com/video/UsAmawGIBBE/v-deo.htmlsi=eeDAm_vzAsc30yDn
What is the easy way to look for metal?
you can cut open the fuel filter with scissors and see if there are any metal shavings or by removing fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure pump
@@HintSlice Thanks!
Np ;)
@@HintSlice Did this but no metal shavings inside the filter? 😕
@@blackace4423 well then step two remove fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure pump. And what is the problem with your engine? I mean what is the condition? Because one wise mechanic is saying : "condition cause correction confirm" Dave's Auto Center.
Super thank u
Glad I could help
How much time did u spend fixing it
@@orl4759 I don't remember exactly but It's somethig about 6 h
@@HintSlice thanks
@@orl4759 That's fine;) if you have more questions just ask.
Thanks, going to change on mine
I'm glad if this video helps
well done mate going make them cam lockers will make life easier
thanks, i hope it will
The muuuuuuh when bleeding the filter😂
Great video, there is no fuel pump in the 1.7cdti.
Thanks
@@HintSlice there is in ecoflex model all models have pump check service manual
Is the subframe off to do this ? Thanks
Nope you don't have to take it off
Realy it didn't have any when I undone it are they prone for coming undone
Well like every bolt, If not over tighten them then it's gonna be ok
Did you use loctite on the camshaft sensor bolt I didnt but people are saying I should I made sure it was tight so it doesn't vibrates loose
Yes. But this bolt have some loctite from the factory so you don't have to worry that it gona loose and if you tight it good enough.
Hello Is it possible to change the high pressure control valve without taking anything off? Or do I need to take something off in order to access it?
Hi. I think taking off the throttle valve will give you more access to the h.p. ctrl valve . On 11:30 ua-cam.com/video/qz_pTONZ3CU/v-deo.htmlsi=DOHMurwcZFdmeBGs
Hey! Your video is amazing, where can i found all the information about the montage? Is there any website to follow a montage guide?
Thanks
you have diesel pump in fuel tank you not need to bleed system
Good luck with that. There is no pump in the fuel tank in this Astra1.7cdti 2010
@@HintSlice There is a pump my astra j 1.7 cdti ecoflex have pump in tank
@@adrianloncar5325 So everyone who will replace the fuel filter in astra j1.7cdti just should pay attention to whether there is a pump in the fuel tank. Thank you so much for your reply
@@HintSlice Yes indeed
@@HintSlice i think because start stop he need a fuel pump