Відео

My 2.4 has 183,000 miles and gets 5000 miles to the quart. I use Mobil1.

Doing it currently, and not having fun lol

@@Brouse I use "white out" on all the timing gear parts. Mark them at the gear tip. Makes alignment super simple and easy to verify I got it right or wrong. Super helpful on the rear cam for exhaust, as it is difficult to see. 🕵️ 😎👍

There is nothing definitive I've seen. On the non DI Ecotec engines I've read that the nylon guides break down with age not so much mileage. This happens around 12-15 years. Again just what I've read. I've got a 2008 Solstice so mine will probably need to be replaced soon even though the engine only has 29K miles. But who really knows. Supposedly there will be a loud rattle on startup when the chain needs replacing. You can also pull the VVT solenods and look for metal shavings on them.

Timing components hardly ever need to be serviced. However, they do if the engine is not maintained well, then you start to have issues such as, chains stretching, tensioners failing, guides wearing out, etc

Rattling and timing codes

I agree that step wasn’t real clear in the video.

He activated it first because he turned the balancer to release the chain slack to one side to allow for the tensioner to be installed activated

The front of the engine is the the timing chain end of the engine, and is using that as reference.

The timing on this motor is set on TDC of the exhaust stroke, not compression. Don't know why.

There was a difference Chloys did not activate the camshaft activator before they put it in they screwed in and then run a long ride down in their to activate it that was what was puzzling me. Like the way he did it that's the way I'm accustomed

Pretty sure you just remove from the back with a 32mm socket. Put the new one in at 55 ft'lbs, then activate the tensioner by pressing the guide into the tensioner. They are activated by puhshing them in about a 1/8-1/4 inch. You will need you remove the valve cover to depress the tensioner

@@etchris I also used locking pliers on each cam shaft. Fixed P0016/P0017!

@@1111comment am doing a timing chain replacement this weekend, doesn't look to bad! Hopefully all goes well

@@etchris good luck man. yeah doesnt look too bad. worst part on mine is dropping the engine an inch bc of one bolt; can't make it too easy. 😂.

@@1111comment you just replaced the tensioner? no chains? I got my cover off and nothing is broke and i'm considering that especially since it appears in time still

I'm actually doing this job right now and if you're careful and shine a light, you can just barely see the tip. I also used a little inspection cam to double check.

Frfr

Did you figure it out? I see this outfit doesn't want to answer questions. Dummy me took the sprockets off without looking where they were. Now I need to know where the cams need to be because of the cam sprockets off. I know the crank is at 12 o'clock to be top center. I need to figure where the cams go to know intake and exhaust are right. I can put the sprockets in the key way on the cam but it could be one turn wrong. I'm scared to continue without knowing for sure. I see I can't ask this dude because they don't reply.

@@dano9973 a good point of reference is to count the chain links. Use this video or similar to count the links and the distance between the marks on the chain. You can also look online for the chain and count the mark distance there too. if I am correct, the distance between the exhaust and intake camshafts have 14 links inbetween. This is a good starting point. Also count the amount of links on your chain and compare it to the ones you see online. Lastly, count the diffrence between the exhaust cam mark to the crank mark, and and the intake cam mark to the crank mark.

He tells you the position at about 2:25 in the video. Just make sure you're not turning the engine too much. You have to worry about interference with the valves and breaking the valves so don't force the engine when you're turning it. You need to look at the position of the cams and the valves to make sure you're not going to hit anything. If your chains were broken, there's a pretty good chance your valves are piston are already busted up. I converted the end of an old compression tester so I could actually blow compressed air into the cylinder with the valves closed and see if it held air or whether you could hear it leaking through the engine. Just don't use too much air pressure as it will actually turn the engine and you might cause damage that wasn't there to begin with.

Put a piece of paper in the camber and if it pops out you’re on the compression stroke. Spin the crank one more revolution to get to the desired stroke. But make sure it’s on the compression stroke. I’m not sure why this guy said to be on the exhaust stroke

@@unownvoyage manual says to be on the exhaust stroke is why he said that

Bro same thing happen to me, did you figure it out?? I'm stuck

Turn the crank a quarter turn bringing all pistons to the center of the cylinder. Rotate the cams to their proper positions using the timing marks. Bring #1 back to the top.