Відео

A crime of passion to give the GC compatibility for more modern and accessible power supplies!

Good question. The point is to have another power supply option for the console. rather than getting another OEM PSU in case it breaks down or get a generic compatible one and having yet one more power supply for one specific thing, the USB C option will let you be able to use a wall adapter (provided it's a PD compatible adapter that supports 12V 3A) that you can use for other things such as your phone, tablet, in some cases a laptop, other consoles that have been modded to use a USB C power supply, and so forth to eliminate extraneous power supplies in one's house and lessen electronic waste by utilizing something more multipurpose. With a smaller adapter, it also makes it easier to travel with as well.

It's so much fun! co-op sounds like it'd be a blast haha

Sorry for the late response! Unfortunately, I do not any available at this time.

Thanks! :D

Thank you, I will! :D It's the first game I've ever got and played so it meant a lot to me; couldn't just let it poof haha

It really is! I'm looking forward to see when they'll announce a release for the gamecube and hope it considers both DOL-001 and DOL-101 models.

Thanks you! :D Good questions. The mod needs a USB PD wall adapter that can support 9V and just over an amp. If powered by a non-PD adapter it'll default to 5V due to how PD works, and the Genesis will not work. The LM7805 regulators (some boards have 2 instead of 1) need more than 5V to function properly so we want to make sure they stay happy. If the phones' wall adapter supports PD and can supply 9V or more, then it should be fine and good to go. Not all adapters support PD so it'd be good to check if the adapters you already have support it or not along with meeting the voltage and current requirements. For example, a question I get regarding using the Nintendo Switchs' wall adapter. while it has ratings for either 5V and 15V, it doesn't support PD and can't be used with the mods I make where the triggers request 9V. Nintendo just designed it that way for whatever reason and it stinks. Hope this helps!

Hiya! You can visit my site at www.renewedgamingrelics.com/mod-repair-services and you can fill in out the form and from there we can go over what you'd like done to get your GameCube up and going again. Thanks for considering me to work on it!

@ thank you man I filled out the form !

True! While I didn't agree well with the controls, the game is a lot of fun and would love to see it make a comeback. I liked it haha

@PedroPlatinumGaming they did just make bomb rush cyberfunk. The order is jet set radio, jet set raido future, and bomb rush cyberfunk

I'll have to check it out. thanks for letting me know! :D

Thanks for the sub!! ♥️ Glad ya like my stuff 😄

Thank you very much - I really appreciate that! 😄

Nice! Good luck on the install :D

Congrats on the install! Glad my video helped you out 😄 The ribbon cable is a killer for this one for sure lol

Thanks - glad you like my vid! Good question, and no it's not an issue. The GC consumes less amperage than what's stated in the specs. I'd have to look through the comments as it was asked before as well where I detailed the power consumption comparing loads while noting the GC used was modded with the KunaiGC and Pluto2 mods

@@PedroPlatinumGaming Thanks for the reply much appreciate it!

You're welcome! Here's some power consumption info that I measured for another comment from my shops channel. I'll quote it here in case someone else might have a similar question and update my FAQ later too. "The .25A difference is within acceptable tolerance though slightly over 5%; I wouldn't tempt 10% or more in general. Normally, power supplies are designed with some headroom in mind so be able to handle the loads consumption safely so they're not overloaded by them Going back to my personal modded GC, I attached one of my cables that measures power draw. My GC has KunaiGC as well as the Pluto2 mods on it as a frame of reference for others who haven't seen the other vid. On average, I measured an average of 20W total draw and peaked at 21W for a consumption of 1.75A at peak with mods during the measurements. Measurements were taken comparing having no controllers and no game loaded, loaded with 4 OEM controllers no game, and loaded with 4 controllers and a game." While I could stipulate that a 2A supply should suffice from my measurements, I wouldn't recommend it because it's far from listed factory specs and wouldn't want to risk anyone's stuff."

@@PedroPlatinumGaming Thank you for all that info, much appreciated!!

Agreed, Isadora is like a good classic MegaMan boss. Tough, but once ya take time to look for the pattern, it's not so bad. Sierpes definitely wants a snack; all that chomping makes me think the lil guy is just hangry lol

Sounds like I'll need to accept this challenge. She owes me at least a thanks for enabling her to get back home. Those mirror frag stages were evil.

I'll have to get a heart rate monitor for stream

I love the narrator guy. hope you've been well zaman!

Sure thing! I'll add that to my list. Be good to check if there's been updates to Swiss since I haven't done any updates since I installed the mod lol

Just released the video - get to also install GBI for the Gameboy player too. Hope you like it! ua-cam.com/video/GtalOUHqUqM/v-deo.html

The WiiU needs 15V 5A. It's something I've been looking at to do after I finalize and release my USB C mod for the Wii. Would have to check if my PD adapter supports 5A at 15V despite it being a 100W adapter.

Hot tweezers would be pretty nice not gonna lie lol Got a hot air rework station now which has been mad nice. Haven't heard of someone dual wilding soldering irons to remove caps though - interesting idea

The one in the video is Gliptone Professional Ceramic Detail Spray which I normally do 2 coats of. At request I also use Autokan Ceramic 10H High Gloss or Renaissance Micro Crystalin wax with Pre-lim surface cleaner for different finish feels and durability.

Thank you! At this time I don't offer international shipping except to Canada. It's something I will be addressing as I continue to familiarize myself with international tax requirements - make sure I'm compliant wherever I sell to. I'll make announcements on Discord and @RenewedGamingRelics as I make progress towards that goal.

I don't have that just yet, but I do have in mind to work on USB C mods for the PS1 and PS2 Slim models not too long after I finish making the one for the Wii which I'll feature on @RenewedGamingRelics

Thank you! If Bitfunx made repo colors for the Char red and Crystal White, I'd so grab a few in a heartbeat lol Their quality is solid.

Thank you! They were? lucky! I wonder what happened with my order then 🤔 maybe they changed something or they got lost in transit lol

Has someone done that before? I'm interested to see that

@@TerribleGameShack it's what we did years ago before any chips or other methods were around. I had my jp machine in the UK before the pal release and when english games were released in the US the simplest way was to fit the switch to then play games from either region. Strip down the cube to the board and right next to one of the chips is a set of jumpers, R5 and R6. One will be bridged already. Break the connection then a common earth to the middle of the switch to one side of the jumpers, then wire each end of the switch to the other sides of the jumpers and you have jp/'us region select.

Yup, I realized I didn't record it after posting the vid - sorry. Sprayed some nice contact cleaner and scrubbed it with a toothbrush brush; then repeated the scrub to the board. It's surprising how gross it can get in there.

@@PedroPlatinumGaming good man, had me worried, keep it up!

You could, but then you'd also need to remove the LM7805 regulator in the unit and then bridge the input and out vias where it went; some have two of them. They have a minimum operating voltage of 6.5V so they'd be unhappy about the 5V; maybe add a bypass caps after the USB adapter and where the regulator was to keep things clean. Afterwards, as long as you can supply 5V at 1.2A, then I think it should be okay 🤔

It's a lot for sure, but not as much as how some make it in barrels dumping multiple 1lb bags in lol The bark is extremely bitter where it's completely not palatable. The initial sugar to fuel the 3 day fermentation is to combat that bitterness so the other portion can be used to sweeten to taste.

Right?! Those are some of things you just have to have when you go there. I'm partial to getting the coconut and passion fruit ice cream from the street vendor carts lol I thought about selling Mavi at one point, but then the licenses and stuff idk. There is one seller of Mavi, but it tastes off and bleh. Would definitely need to completely pasteurize else those bottles be poppin'; happened when I sent a small bottle to a friend 😅

Nope, it's a standard size shell that matches the OEM dimensions.

Thanks - glad ya love it! :D I got a hot air station now. Idk how I managed doing it the way I did before but also, now have handy flush cutters too; specifically for about of those held down with some adhesive haha

@PedroPlatinumGaming I gotta get a hot air station myself! Seems so useful when doing things with smaller components. I break things too often to risk it otherwise, haha.

That's one of the reasons I got one. Some places are a bit tight with a soldering iron, and I can't say I never lifted pads using the iron method; nothing some UV resin can't help fix up, but not something I'd want to make a habit of. I find using hot air to be easier and safer after ya get a handle on it - bonus points for making it easier to deal with ICs on the board lol

Thank you very much!

nice, pretty slick! I wouldn't trust my luck doing that 😅 seen people use flush cutters and I'm like '.. erm.. ' lol

@@PedroPlatinumGaming honestly I didn't believe it until I tried it, can't remember which creator I saw do it first but after they mentioned it I grabbed a random PCB and some needle nose pliers, reached in and twisted a cap back and forth, and off it came with zero drama. I was shocked! If you've got some junk ewaste pcbs give it a try.

Recapped my Saturn the other day. Tried removing caps like this video at first and managed to lift a pad. Decided to twist the rest off and it all went smoothly. Once you've got the knack you can get those suckers off quick!

Aren't ones on the Saturn also secured with some epoxy? I haven't yet worked on one, but I know there's a console that has adhesive to help secure the caps. Please correct me if I'm mistaken. I've encountered few epoxy secured bits and it sucks of ya don't have a hot air station (currently using since the vid) to get em off or do the flush cutter method.

@@PedroPlatinumGaming I know the Game Gear is like that, the caps are shrouded in a case and then epoxied down. For those the solder pads are more accessible though so I cut the legs and then twisted the capacitor shroud until the epoxy broke free.

ah! 😂

From what I've been able to find, the Gameboy player consumes about 0.8W from the 3.3v rail. The 30w USB adapter should easily handle this load as the stock GC appears to consume less than 25W while playing a game. Green does have 65W and 100W adapters as well. I'll need to confirm what I've found with one of those individual meters to confirm what I've found. Saw this 65W one for $27.99 as an alternative so it won't be a worry. I moved to a 100W adapter split between 65W and 40W for my bench. The one I found: UGREEN 65W USB C Charger, Nexode 3 Ports GaN Fast Charger Block, Compact Foldable Charger for MacBook Pro/Air, Dell XPS, iPhone 15 Pro Max/14/13, iPad Pro, Galaxy S24/S23, Pixel 8, Steam Deck (Black) a.co/d/77TpWSo The one I use now: UGREEN 100W USB C Wall Charger, Nexode 2-Port GaN Foldable Fast Charger Block Compatible with MacBook Pro/Air, iPad Pro, iPhone 14 Pro, Dell XPS, Chromebook, Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra, Pixel 7 Pro a.co/d/6q65p1g hope this helps!

​@@PedroPlatinumGaming Could you use a Nintendo switch power supply with the mod

Great question! Unfortunately, no you can't. The Switch PSU only supplies either 5V when directly connected to the switch or 15V when it's hooked onto the docking station. Testing it to see if PD is supported using a 12V trigger measured only 5V out which is too far below what the GC needs to operate and also showed it doesn't support PD despite the 15V capability. The amperage supplied is also too low as you want 3.25A where it supplies 2.6A max whether directly on the switch or docking station.

@@PedroPlatinumGaming thanks for answering my question