Відео

How do you connect this to the main electrical panel inside?

no torquing?

👀👀9:40 ” I’ll stick it in”

Nice work

I always use plastic bushings on connectors.

Possibly one of the best videos ever. Great explanation you nailed it. “To teach is to learn again”

Berry Lemonade Bodyarmor

Shout out to Body Armor! 💯

If the source wiring is coming from the panel with a breaker, then the disconnect would be non-fused for a 220v, single phase system for an HVAC unit?

Guys don't cut towards yourself because if you slip you get cut, better to cut away from yourself

You don't need to pull a neutral ??

How do I ground a wire on a 3 phase 3 fuse electrical disconnect box if I'm hooking up a 3 wire welder outlet?

DeWalt baby

I like your video every much , it is very informative to me .where the disconnect is install on strut ,do you bolt it to the roof . Can you make more video like this

Hey. Trying to reach you via email re mark z share. Interested.

Wonderful clean job! Greetings from eastern Arabia

Did you have any Problem connecting a 480 WYE Hi to a 208 WYE Lo color code?

When you're preheating the copper and graphite the little bit of moisture you see at first is not from the copper or graphite, it's from your torch. When a hydrocarbon like propane burns the carbon atoms make CO2 but the hydrogen atoms that make up the rest of it form H2O. Your torch is putting off steam. You can see the same thing out of any car muffler. At idle sitting at a stop light some of that steam tends to condense into water and it'll spill out when they take off once the light changes. The reason why it shows up at first but not once you've got it hot is because at first the material is cold enough to cause it to condense. Once you've got it nice and hot and it's above the boiling point of water it's not going to condense anymore. It's not that much different than hot moist air condensing on a cold windshield. Give it some time to heat up the windshield and now it's back to removing the fog. It's not because the heater is somehow "driving water out of the glass", it's just hot enough that it's not condensing on it like the outside of a cold drink. As for the rest of the technique, You probably don't want to go at the mold so heavy with the wire brush. It'll last longer if you're more careful, I forget which manufacturers in particular but common wisdom is to use a softer brush like a stiff natural hair brush. It doesn't really matter much up at the top and if anything a wire brush is better for cleaning up the weld and the wire. That graphite is super soft though so try to avoid scraping at it with anything harder than necessary. Using a torch is much better than fiddling around with a little flint striker in thick gloves, if you've already got the torch, which everyone should be using to preheat and degrease the wire and mold, it just makes sense to use it to ignite the thermite. Even if the slag on top of the weld comes out not looking so terrible you should still chip it off so you can get a look at the weld underneath. If you have a bad fitment of the mold or some oil was left on it you can get some defects and that little nugget of slag you left on the top could hide it to where you wouldn't be able to tell there was anything wrong with the weld. Chip it off so you can get a good look at your work and leave it clean going into the ground. Also when lighting it off, don't put your body directly in front of the vent in the side of the mold. If there's a bit of moisture that causes it to burp out some of the burning thermite, you definitely don't want it spitting it in your direction. Your welding gloves won't help you when that happens. What's really unintuitive is that the primary components of the thermite powder itself is just finely powdered aluminum and corroded copper dust. Aluminum actually burns with quite a vengeance if it's finely powdered and it'll strip the oxygen off the copper oxide to burn the aluminum.

great video

Good work dude thanks for the refresher course

Very interesting. Have done cathodic protection welds but not nearly as complex.

Is a grounding bushing required?

ty for the video

Hi there I was wondering if you could give me some info How can you take a 3 phase meter Box remove it and replace it with a single phase meter Box

Of your using reducing washers you need bonding bushings on your seal tight connections yo!

This "dude" has no fuckin idea what hes doing

I like your work man keep it up 🖒hope one day I can be among u guys working

Becarefull Boss... 👍👍

Could you adapt this to interrupt for a 240v 4 wire plug? Like from a generator?

Cool dude done a excellent job!

im from Canada and its exactly the same way we do it, except our colours for the 3 phases are different

Plastci bushings missing at connectors, everything else good.

Love your work.

WTF?

How is your Unislut racking secured to the roof? Would love to see the transformer.

This is so interresting!

I don't understand why there's no neutral white wire? Ya I'm a newb, just tryin to understand 3 phase

This dude is an animal he’s over here promoting dewalt while humbly admitting Milwaukee is good as he drinks a body armor and throws it on the ground this dude is a savage.

Cool video, thanks for sharing

I was sitting here eating my sugarless gummy bears. The flavor was a tad off but I thought maybe I was losing my tastebuds because of the 'Rona. Suddenly, I had a massive case of BG's. For you that don't know. Thats the bubble guts. I rushed to the closest restroom to relieve myself, unable to make it in time. With liquid doo-doo oozing out of my pant legs I finished the last 40 yards to the restroom, at a speed that I could qualify for the NFL. As I sat here crying internally in quite shame and pain, I suddenly came across this video. Thank you. Thank you for making me forget that I dont have a change of underwear and am no where close to my house.

Electricians are always so handsome and manly

FOUND YOU BOI