Відео

That's totally unacceptable and Amazon needs to be transparent about the failure of this "Sold by Amazon" product. I was just looking at it and absolutely will not buy it for the very reason of this exposure of fraud/incompetence. Lord knows what else is wrong with it (that you can't see)...

How has your system been working since this fix and video was posted? Thank you very much

Last month i bought WZRELB 3500W 48V. The circuit board looks identical to the 4000w 24v in your video. Have you done any testing on it? Thanks for the videos.

This other video helped me understand what you were talking about. Your connected to your own stand alone power panel. NOT grid power. Makes more sense now. Based on this video here. My 12v 3000w inverter did not light up a bulb on factory wiring for with the non receptacle connections of yellow neutral and black ground or when i did your reversed connections it did not light up that way either. Based on what this guy is saying that is a ghost voltage? This is all new to me so all of your imputs are helpful. Thanks for all you do! ua-cam.com/video/Ky5luEx6R2M/v-deo.htmlsi=Yx1Ics5zJnaR2f9v 0:05

​​​@WattsinWattsout so I switched the two hot and neutral wires as you say to do and I still get 60v on the red and the black. In other words it does it when factory wired and also when I switched them in reverse as you said to do. Any suggestions on why that would be the same results either way? Thanks

Yes be careful! My 3000 Reliable blew the fuses at installation. Took me some time to see the terminal wires were reversed!! Switched them 3 years ago! 24/7 since ❤

I have a 2017 model 2500 Watt 12volt. It does not have the Phillips head screws connecting the neutrals and hots to the circuit board. It has blade connectors. I switched out the connectors as you have and made the hard wired connector the black (hot) and the red connector the neutral. It worked and did not burn up , however, I still get the 60 volts and 60 volts phenomenon and my plug in tester indicates an open ground either way I have it connected. I did not remove the ground wires from the board as you did. So, I just put it back the way it was since I have use this inverter for years and it has never failed. I wouldn't trust it hooked up to my house panel as I have seen numerous videos on these issues with this inverter and I suppose the company has switched stuff around because of complaints and returns that it is just a crap shoot which year and iteration you bought. .

What Bluetooth App?

Nice solar setup I have a system almost like it but it's 24 volt

I bought a 3kw 12 v inverter ( different company ) , before anything related to plugging it in I did a continuity test on all three outlets and the three screws for output. My findings were : Outlet one was okay except open ground, outlet two I had reverse neutral and line, but the ground screw and ground on outlet showed continuity, Outlet three, reversed hot and neutral and open ground. Sent e-mail told the company what I found, they asked me how I tested and I told them , with a multi-meter and that their unit would not be safe and I would return it; They got back to me saying to keep the inverter and they promptly replaced my money into my bank account. After wondering what to do, I decided to open it up and what I found was this unit was faulty because of a 10 Cent piece of circuit board where the neutral of socket two was soldered on circuit board to the hot of socket 1 and socket two's hot was soldered to the neutral of socket one and socket two fed socket three . I took my Dremel, cut the board between socket 1 and socket 2 and re-soldered two and three correctly and connected all three ground s of the plugs together and everything works fine still floating neutral , but tested it with a bonding GN plug and socket tester test good. I'm getting a small panel where I'll bond inside for the ground and neutral and make it correct like a mini home system.

$166 on Amazon as of 5/26/24. Amazing price for the unit. It has been powering my 12,000 btu air conditioner for several hours with no problems.

New model with Bluetooth remote plus the wired remote. $166 US on Amazon as of 5/26/24. Not Bad! Volt meter is incorrect at 12.8v. The lifepo4 bank bus bars read 13.5v with the handheld meter.

Hope this posting is still active. So I get it right - switch the red and black wire on the inside and do nothing with the ground? If I am wrong - let me know. Thanks!!!!!

I could be wrong but looks like on their outlet the hot side they have a red and black wire. When you change their red and black blocks you still have a red and black connected to the hot side of the receptacle. You still are cross contaminated in my eyes how does this work? Still scratching my head.

this way past the electrical understanding of your typical cabin folk

WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ua-cam.com/video/Ky5luEx6R2M/v-deo.html

All high frequency, transformerless inverter are dangerous. Without an output transformer to provide galvanic isolation between the DC boost stage of these inverters and their AC output, they can send high amperage, DC current straight through to your AC loads and set them on fire.

The name Reliable brand name is an oxymoron. High frequency, output transformerless inverters like these have a much shorter life expectancy and a far poorer peak power capacity than a low frequency, transformer based inverter. I wouldn't use one of these dangerous, toy inverters, even if they were giving them away for free.

Ok nice, am awaiting on your test results to determine if I should buy one.

Quick question... I have been using this brand inverter (mine is a 24v, 10k version) for almost 6 months with no issues, but I don't use the built-in outlets on the inverter. So, in my case, wouldn't another (and easier) solution be to just NOT use the built-in outlets on the front of the inverter and just use the terminal connectors? Currently that's what I am doing - only using the terminal connectors (I have them wired into a separate distribution center in my shop). Depending on your answer, and rather than opening up the box and swapping the wires, wouldn't this be a simpler solution, or am I missing something? Thx!

Thanks for the tip on bonding the ground. I just ordered mine on eBay, not as good of price as you did but still good price. Mine will have a remote screen. Thanks

Very good video! Glad you caught that problem! Going into thorough detail about these inverters are important to everyone who don’t understand much about how these work and should work. I have a 3000w Power Drive with 4 AC outlets. And for the first time in years of having it, I found out by simply looking on the back cover that each AC outlet only provides 1500w and only 1500w on either the left side or right side. Meaning, only 2 outlets on either side will only produce 1500w or 750w per outlet. I always thought I could just plug in anything that was around 3000w in any of the AC outlets. I have not seen anyone making a video about this. Hopefully I explained myself correctly about this.

The reliable brand have some bad design just look at the sine wave filter copper wire it’s 16 gauge wire that limit the output power and voltage I can bet the voltage dropping big time with load 5kw sine wave filter most be 12 gauge alway I use 8 gauge for 6kw filter and two core for 9kw of 8 gauge to reduce heating of core

Good morning, I saw your comment on G Bear’s video, checked you out and have subscribed to give you support.

I have a 2000 watt 36 volt WZRELB reliable pure sine wave inverter, my sniffer is too sensitive, if I get within 6 inches of the inverter it goes off so I have having a hard time telling which 25 amp terminal is actually hot. I am getting 124 volts from neutral to hot, o volts from hot to ground and 0 volts from neutral to ground. Of course it won't run my furnace. I am afraid to put a bonding plug in one of the small outlets while it is powered up to see if that will fix the 25 amp terminals. I can tell you with a continuity tester that when a bonding plug is put in a small outlet (inverter powered off) there is continuity between the red + and the chassis ground which tells me it may be wired incorrectly on the board. Even if I switch the black and red on the board that still won't solve the grounding issue. Could I run a heavy wire from the chassis ground to the neutral connection on the board after I switch wires? Do I need to run a ground from the chassis of the inverter to my home breaker box?

I got a 2500 of those inverters tied to a 200a lithium. Now I am worried. I do not use it frequently, and I decided not to mess with the board that connects to a house outlet. I just have used the inverter ac outlets to charge my bluetti and pecron and intermittently for a small ac unit, charging small devices. The rest of the time it sits turned off connected to the battery/charger and panels. I am nervous now because I know one of this days, I will have to open it and checks on those wires myself. Since I am not an electrician and I am weary of electric stuff (I have put together my 12 v stations for emergencies with you tube guidance). I am saving your video to follow your instructions. Thanks for the information. Keep on posting!

Very well explained sir!!

Thanks for this.

I would never buy one of these low cost, high frequency, transformerless inverters. They run much hotter than longer lived, low frequency inverters and they don't last very long when powering inductive loads and they don't provide much of a surge capacity.

For some reason, I cannot find this Inverter on eBay anywhere

Link for the extension cable assortment. XINGYHENG 10PCS 2/3/4/5/6 Pin Cable with Double-end 2.54mm Pitch Cable Plug 30cm(Pink and White) Compatible with JST XH a.co/d/aHfOKrg

Every HF inverter is wired like this I thought. Even my 15 year old aims inverter is wired just like this. People wire these to their breaker panel and as soon as they power it up they blow fuses and fets

There is no neutral on the inverter. There are 2 leads coming from each side of the secondary transfomer coil and both are live or hot so to say. A neutral is when one of the leads at the transformer is connected to proper ground and this is not the case here.

So, what do you think about the design/build quality of the inverter and that charge controller? Also, did you order directly from China? I'm sure your panels are from SanTan, correct?

Amazing!! Thanks to sharing

Thank you for all the effort - a very clear video & solution to a very dangerous problem - although you would expect that all units have been quality controlled they are not - I’ve come across this problem before when I connected my 5.5k unit to ground all was fine until i used a small appliance to test - quite a bang , i bought a replacement & did not earth this one i still have the problem so with your video & knowledge i have removed the inverter & will have go to sort it. Thank you for answer to a bad problem. Ed,

Below is a paste from the Company Support "explaining " the wiring. Can't even get a straight answer out of this company its so frustrating. I explained everything you show here and sent pictures of the mismatched wiring going to Hot vs neutral. THey clearly state the BLACk is the NEUTRAL yet it runs to the the HOT side of the outlet?? then they tell me this that it can and cant be bonded what one is it?!? you can have it both ways. Quote " Hello, It is forbidden to bond the inverter yellow wire (inverter ground) and inverter black wire (inverter neutral wire) together If the house neutral wire is combined with the ground, please connect the inverter black wire (inverter neutral wire) with your house neutral wire Regards, Shirley/Xiaoling Zeng YUEQING RELIABLE ELECTRIC CO.,LTD."

How did you figure out one is neutral and on is hot if they both show 60 volt + 60 volt? What then lead you to bond the ground to the new neutral ? Have you asked the engineer who designed it or company about doing this? What was their response? Im trying to grt my GFCi outlets working again as they dont trip with its factory wiring.

It's not just this brand. Every single brand HF invertor 5kw and lower are wired like this. I have never seen one that wasn't. LF inverters seem fine. At least the ones I have used.

New subscriber and an I appreciate your videos. I have the Reliable 2500w inverter. It was purchased with the main purpose of using as a backup power source for power outages and was intended to connect to my home's generator socket for lower power needs before needing to connect my large gas generator. As such, I don't use the 2 power outlets. I have them taped up. I use the hardwire terminals to a 20 amp outlet and then plug either a power strip or high current device into that 20amp outlet. So far everything I've tested works great. I've purchased a "Generator Regular 3-prong 20 AMP 5-20P male to Generator Twist Lock 4-prong 30 AMP L14-30R female (Two hots bridged)" adapter. I already have a lockout switch on my panel and L14-30 30amp 125/250v socket on my home. In this configuration and use...never using the other factory outlets...is there anything that I still need to be concerned about? Anything I need to change? Do I still need to open the inverter and switch those cables? Thank you for any advice you can give.

Thanks for the video, very informative. I wish this was filmed horizontally so that I could make out more detailed.

My harbor freight inverter has the same setup. For most things its not really a problem, except to the main thing I want to power in an outage, my furnace! I believe my only options are an isolation transformer or to just get a better inverter and use a N-G bonding plug if they aren't inside the inverter. I'm leaning towards the latter.

I just stay away from anything that is not UL or ETL compliant and check the readings......thanks for the video

Cool

Greetings what about countries where red is hot and black is neutral?

Typically black isnt neutral. Black is considered hot in US wiring.

I get normal 120 on mine

This inverter is ok for loads like a laptop, charging your phone or powering incandescent lights etc, but powering inductive loads like refrigerators, microwaves, power tools or motors will damage the MOSFETs in these high frequency inverters and WILL seriously shorten their life expectancy. If you want to power inductive loads like refrigerators, microwaves, power tools or motors, then I would highly recommend spending a little more money and buying a low frequency, transformer based inverter instead. It will last far, far longer and you'll be able to run inductive loads without damaging your inverter.

I have this inverter (24v 3000w). It seems the neutral and the hot are switched on both plug in outlets. I get 60v from hot to ground and from neutral to ground on the three terminals no matter if something is plugged in or not. Any suggestions?

New Sub. Good call on the wire swap. I have 4 reliable Inverters that read the 60v grd to neutral I'll be doing the swap