Відео

I meant I used the clamp while I balanced the system. It all worked out, and ran great, but I’m glad to no longer have it.

Thanks for sharing, maybe some day I need to look into the HFM m104 as well.

Yes, the car runs very well. I actually leaned it out a bit with the center screw to fine tune the mixture (using an oscilloscope) later. I hope to find some time to post more video's about that after summer.

@@GandaGarage the CO screw regulates filling only at xx and minimum feeds, at higher speeds it does not affect filling

@@arhimond7 OK makes sense, so maybe I should indeed try it at 160cc/min some day. This is my first R107, thus I cannot compare.

@@dewispew there is an idea that 100cc is not the full disc deflection, but somewhere around 75%, which is achieved by their original device

I left them out. They were to far gone, and I didn't want to risk that pieces would go in the system.

You can increase the system pressure by adding washers to the fuel pressure regulator at the back driver side of the fuel distributor. Best to check your fuel pump and lines first; I added a washer, then later changed my fuel pump, and pressure was too high after that. Your system pressure at 1 bar is too low. To me that feels like the WUR is not clogged like mine, otherwise system pressure would be too high. It springs or other components might indeed be broken, allowing to much fuel flow. Or there could also be an issue in the return line to your fuel distributor. I am not sure how to diagnose that best step by step.

I have no experience with 500 SEL, thus sorry but no idea

It is really trial and error. And different for every unit. I went in small 1/4 and 1/8 turns to balance it out.

Yes, the new green cable was the issue. Re-installed the old one and was able to time it correctly. I repaired my 'old' green cable with epoxy glue, but still need to find a permanent solution for that. For my USA 380SL, timing is straightforward; disconnect the vacuum from the advance unit and plug the hose. Set timing to TDC at idle. Then reconnect vacuum; it should advance to 15-17 degrees at idle.

Looks like I didn't make a video for that yet. I don't have time now, but I am planning to get back to it. For my USA 380SL, timing is straightforward; disconnect the vacuum from the advance unit and plug the hose. Set timing to TDC. Then reconnect vacuum; it should advance to 15-17 degrees at idle.

It is very difficult to get to the vacuum lines on the throttle housing without removing the air mixer, but this thread here might give you an alternative. Success: www.benzworld.org/threads/1982-380sl-vacuum-advance.3128484/post-18660968

Best is to check your connector before ordering. The documentation says A 126 540 70 45 is installed as of engine: 962 016926 ALSO INSTALLED ON 016887 963 031859

I don't know the 500sel, but these instructions for the 560sl might put you on the right path: www.tonk.ca/Index/117.5/07MechElec.htm. I did not need special tools for my 380SL

Use the UA-cam playback speed setting to slow down 😆

Sounds like your system pressure is very high. That is controlled by the system pressure regulator, at the left (driver side) back of the fuel distributor. It can be adjusted by adding or removing chimes. But as it is very high here, I would first check whether your fuel return line (from fuel distributor back to fuel tank) is not clogged.

The bent clip is only there to avoid the plunger to fall out. Once built-in, the plunger would rest on the lever arm of the air flow sensor, thus not on the clip. And the lever of the airflow sensor is kept in closed position by a pin in the air housing that can be tapped down to adjust.

To adjust, you would have to remove the complete system pressure regulator (the valve you saw at 0:47) and add or remove shims to change the pressure. Also, first check if the return line to your tank is not clogged.

0:50 : M10x1 male

0:20 : 3/16" 4.75mm copper break line

It is not needed. I just applied some silicone grease to keep the gasket in place. Are you saying it is leaking fuel at the orange gasket? That is surprising as that is an air gasket between 2 two vacuum chambers. Fuel should stay above the metal membrane at the top of the WUR. Your rubber o-ring (see 8:12) might be bad.

@@GandaGarage no the fueling side is fine, no leaking at all, when i put the orange membrane in and bolted the wur together i can blow threw the vac line and feel it coming out the top vent hole, just cant seal it, am i suppose to use a sealent of some sort with the orange gasket

ok resealed and now i can apply 0.5 bar positive pressure but it will bleed of within 3 secs, fuel enrichment drops to spec when this is carried out

OK, I am not sure how to test correct operation. But as this vacuum system is reacting temporarily to changing conditions, such as acceleration, this bleed off might be as intended.

This is simply a hollow buffer between the fuel tank and the pump. I assume to avoid pump pulsation to travel back in the tank. The third line is the leak line from the fuel accumulator. As long as the accumulator is OK, it should not be leaking thus this is only a safety for in case the accumulator diaphragm fails.

Thanks for your question, but I don't get what you are referring to. At what timestamp in the video did you see that?

@@GandaGarage Sure thing. The first time i notice the fitting, it shows up at 9:22 and then again at 9:53, where you show the vacuum lines attached to the WUR. If I'm seeing and understanding it correctly, the brass fitting at the end of the vacuum line will get connected to the "X" fitting that plugs into the manifold vacuum port. For reference, the other two ports on the "X" would connect to the distributor vacuum line and the green line in the foreground (I think). Thanks again.

Hi Peter, as it sounds like your valve is working, you could try disconnecting it while the engine is idling. If nothing changes, this could indicate no signal is coming to the valve, i.e a bad icu, or bad cabling between icu and the valve. You can also measure the signal coming from the ICU; it is a complex modulated signal, but if you measure no potential at all, that is another indication the icu might be bad. If you have a power supply with current control (as in the video), you could connect that to the valve (ICU disconnected) and gradually close it while the car is idling, the rpm should decrease then. If not, you might have an air leak elsewhere in the system. Success

Thanks for the reply. I’m borrowing a variable voltage and amp meter and I’m going to test the valve. I tested it on the car I got about 4.5 volts at the valve and 180 mA. This is at operating temperature. Cold it showed 480mA and voltage up to 4.6V. I’m suspecting the valve. The voltage is in range but the amps are not. I cleaned the Icv by soaking it in carburetor cleaner and sonicating at 60C.

Thanks for the reply. I’m borrowing a variable voltage and amp meter and I’m going to test the valve. I tested it on the car I got about 4.5 volts at the valve and 180 mA. This is at operating temperature. Cold it showed 480mA and voltage up to 4.6V. I’m suspecting the valve. The voltage is in range but the amps are not. I cleaned the Icv by soaking it in carburetor cleaner and sonicating at 60C.

Thanks for the reply. I’m borrowing a variable voltage and amp meter and I’m going to test the valve. I tested it on the car I got about 4.5 volts at the valve and 180 mA. This is at operating temperature. Cold it showed 480mA and voltage up to 4.6V. I’m suspecting the valve. The voltage is in range but the amps are not. I cleaned the Icv by soaking it in carburetor cleaner and sonicating at 60C.

Thanks for the reply. I’m borrowing a variable voltage and amp meter and I’m going to test the valve. I tested it on the car I got about 4.5 volts at the valve and 180 mA. This is at operating temperature. Cold it showed 480mA and voltage up to 4.6V. I’m suspecting the valve. The voltage is in range but the amps are not. I cleaned the Icv by soaking it in carburetor cleaner and sonicating at 60C.

Yes this is for an 1983 380SL with K-jetronic

@@GandaGarage O.K - It is German precision mechanical gasoline injection. Must use Non-Etanol gas - if possible. No problem to repair it. Nice piece of engineering.

The injector lines do have that kind of a washer, that is why I added it. Even with the bubble flare, the lines sink a bit below the top of the in the fuel distributor connections, which makes me think they are necessary to avoid leaks.

Not sure which one you are referring to. But I do have a video where I reassemble the whole thing, you can most likely see it there: studio.ua-cam.com/users/videoNCQsOqaEkVo/edit

No idea, I guess not.

Thanks, I am trying to keep the video's short. Feel free to slow down and pause using the youtube controls. There is more detail on the installing the pressure gauge and switch in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Gv_drocUEKo/v-deo.html