Відео

Ty

I appreciate the input but I will rectify these issues myself.

@@rustyhammerforge5902 ok good

Yeah it turned out pretty good

Will continue playing around with it

Thank you Much Appreciated!

Thank you

Not quite finished...still alot of work to be done

That is outstanding! It is never to late to get into Blacksmithing!

I live in the southwestern corner of the same state as you. No shop set up yet but able to play with it between rain storms.

@@TheBHoky keep at it. Nothing better

Railroad spikes have two different classifications: regular spikes are a low carbon spike, spikes used in corners are considered a low-high carbon (34% C). Best way to harden these is with a brine quench or water quench at 1900-2000 degrees. Regular spikes can be hardened as well but not as good as the HC versions. Regular spikes like 1018 steel take on more of a case hardening when quenched in water.

@@tstodgell MY BAD...HC Railroad spike CAN contain at a minimum 27% carbon. The HC Spikes i use contain 34% carbon...regular spikes can contain 17 to 25% carbon depending

@@tstodgell www.blacksmithsdepot.com/5-8-railroad-spikes-hc

@@tstodgell you might want to actually check yourself before making claims they cant be hardened.

They most certainly can be hardened. And, as stated, depending on the carbon content being adequate or not can also be case hardened (a thin outside layer of introduced carbon treatment, leaving the majority inner material softer). However, while possible, RR spikes are not optimal sources for blades, but more of a novelty. Metals, especially steels, are created for specific needs. Primarily by carbon content, but also by production. Cold rolled will not produce an effective blade, for example, but high carbon tool steel can, in turn, be unsuitable for uses of cold rolled. Rebar is another example. RR spikes can be plentiful in certain areas. They are also relatively easy to work. Some pretty amazing results can be achieved from RR spikes artistically - which is a testament to the skill of the creator rather than the material mostly. But, no SeAL or Ranger or SF guy ever carried a RR spike knife into battle. Even as an EDC, depending on use, they likely aren't first advice. Older files, not the newer alloyed (often) foreign made ones, are a great source of very good knife steel. One of my go tos for 40 years of hammering blades. Any carbon tools are worthy of a try. Just know your quenching mediums and always anneal before starting. Good video. Good work. Nice knife. Kudos.

exactly right...will be putting scales on the tang to complete the handle

it is actually quite easy just a lot of back and forth forging to get it where you want it

You are correct

Well we moved and the treadle hammer is at my buddies shop which he is in the process of moving as well.

I have an uncut version for my subscription crowd

That would be cool

Will put it on the list

Yeah that would be a perfect swedge for spoons and ladles if the material was solid bar

It is fun, and easy to get into. But like anything takes time to master.

Yeah turned out pretty good, no t perfect but good enough to get the build across

It is epoxied, pinned and wrapped. It will not fail. No different than a hidden tang blade.

And the tang is angled down into the handle via a hole at the back of the slot

I did chop tests through cherry and apple wood without the wrap or epoxy. Just a pin holding it in the handle and it never gave way. And this was on a 12” chopper that I eventually turned into a 10” chef

@@rustyhammerforge5902 Rusty hammer forge, I do stand corrected after reading your reply and learning more about your clever design. I do thank you for taking the time to clear that up as I was unaware how it was made.

@@rustyhammerforge5902 I do like the style and the look of the knife .Your choice of materials for the handle with the hilt and pommel as one unit looks nice. The sinew rapping also. I’m an amateur blacksmith knife maker. you’re correct that I don’t have any idea what I’m talking about but I do still learn rather than arguing wrongyour comments to prove.

Oh wow

As soon as I can get back over to my buddies shop we will shoot part 3

Lol yes he does

4 HOUR conversion...not to bad

Not yet

@@rustyhammerforge5902 when is part three?

@@chuckbailey925 well, we just moved an hour away from where we were doing the build. As soon as we get all settled, part 3 will come out. Sometime in 2023

The main reason is so I dont have to rebuild my forge all the time, the second reason is that I have less drop and can consistently get perfect forge welds. Non-Atmospheric is always better, essentially you are doing the same thing with flux, just a lot dirtier!

@@rustyhammerforge5902 That makes sense. Guess it’s time to bust out the MIG welder. Gotta find some appropriate sheet metal to cover the sides of the billet.

@@madtitan1946 I use as much found sheet metal as possible. It is a little more work, and a whole lot more reward

As you should

That will be fun

It is a little fancy lol

It should be if my luck holds out...this is the test project to see if the steel is solid

The hardest part is aligning the hammer. Will take a lot of video when we do that

@@rustyhammerforge5902 Looking forward to seeing it finished and running.