Відео

I have a 2019 Armada and I disconnected mine. I have never noticed any decrease in fuel efficiency so I doubt this smart charger even saves that much fuel to be honest. You wanna know how to save fuel ⛽ on these trucks? Keep your foot off the gas pedal lol 🤣. These are massive trucks with big engines so they naturally get bad gas mileage. I love my truck so much I'm at 71k miles and only issue is stupid washer fluid sensor keeps saying low fluid even though it's full. I heard if you clean sensor it will fix it and not to use washer fluid with ethanol in it. I'm going to try to clean mine if it doesn't work then I'll buy new sensor but not really a big deal either way just annoying. Good luck let me know if u need help 💪

Not sure. I've never attempted such a repair.

@silverstake88 the design flaw won't let you take it apart. So I had to get a new one.

@@sean5354 You have the same model?

It looks exactly the same. I’m not there tight now to check model numbers. I looked through that slot in the back and can see the green wire and everything although it looks like the wires are resting at a different angle. Maybe I just need to move them around and see if it is hiding somewhere behind.

@@silverstake88do you know where he reset button could be for the aqua bartista brand?

​@jennifervaldez9028 Do you have a Model number by chance?

@@chrislefrid5364 No. 🙂

@@17oUtLaW17 I have sarcoidosis (scarring) of the lungs. Never smoked, never used drugs. None of the doctors know why - just something I have to deal with. Is what it is.

@Vprincess1357 Without sourcing the point of the leak I couldn't say for sure. It could be a hose, an o-ring, a seal. You'd need to disassemble it to find the issue.

@Taj7 LOL - there is a safety pin that you need to either pull or compress and then you should be able to pull it out. I can't remember which way it goes.

@silverstake88 lol yep you're correct. I just did it (QX80) and it worked!!! I covered it like you said

you have to disconnect the ground cable on the battery It is easier to release, it is in a tight spot to get

I can’t figure out how to pull it out either, don’t see what I compress or a safety pin? Please help!

@AmandaCarmack-qo7gm 🤔Hmmm... if you're buying filtered water that cartridge would be good a loooong time. Maybe replace yearly to prevent any organic growth on filter media?

If, after resetting the fuse, you still aren't getting cold water then you likely have a compressor, freon loss, or other issue going on. If it's a rental with water delivery - tell them to bring another out to replace that one you have.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

If it's a rental-provided unit like ours is (Sparkletts/Primo) then I would have your supplier bring out another unit. If you own it outright then more investigation needed. Loose fasteners, O-ring in connection, or perhaps a dispensing valve that needs replaced.

Open the top and check if the steam valve cover is filled with water. You might just need to release the water by opening the drain plug in the back of the unit into a bucket (after it's cooled down).

Mines leaking to not cool

No, definitely not.

Yes, especially as they age and require service. Miraculously as the warranty has already expired.

@@silverstake88 I'm glad to still have my 1989 Trans-am GTA. The worse is parts are getting harder to find now.

@@ShawnStafford-1978 Classic car now. 😁

Good question. No gas stations. No oil changes. No scam servicing. No starters, alternators to fail. No timing belts. EV's generally have far fewer fail points than ICE vehicles. My garage is my "gas station." Summon mode. Keep mode. Camp mode. Dog mode. Furry friend stays cool when I have to go into store. No brake jobs (regenerative braking). No transmission. Smooth, quiet acceleration. Costs 25% of gas to charge. Excellent navigation. Full self driving.

Hmm. Not sure I understand...

If your "reset button" is pressed and you're getting hot water then you likely have a cooler issue. Could be compressor, freon loss, sensors, a switch, etc. Dunno there.

@@silverstake88can you make a video on this

Wonderful! Glad it worked! 👍

You're quite welcome! 😁👍

@@silverstake88 it keeps giving out room temperature water. I’m going to call on Monday to replace it

WOOHOO !!! 😁👍

You're welcome! 😁👍

I have not tried to remove the cover to access the motor brushes but that is an interesting question. I'll take a look at a little later on this afternoon and get back to youI'll take a look at a little later on this evening and get back to you.

Ok, sorry for the late reply. The axle is secured using push cap nuts. I found a video showing how to remove/replace these. It's a great question you posed as I have to replace the motor as the brush assembly completely broke off shattered and melted. I will do a video today or tomorrow and show how to access. Here is link for the nut removal: ua-cam.com/video/1M6p46Qp3XM/v-deo.html

@@silverstake88 The methods shown are all well and good except Toro has them inside a recess of the plastic wheels, so it defies my cutoff saw or using sufficiently hefty pliers to grab them. It would take a finer approach like drilling or a Dremel tool to get it to release its hold without melting down the plastic wheel. I might try drilling first and then see if a slide hammer might work, but it's pretty tiny and a screw likely wouldn't be able to get in far enough to grab it. Plan B is to slice the plastic cover to slide it sideways past the axle supports rather than straight up off them. I'm thinking that will make for easier maintenance down the line for future brush replacement anyway, rather than fussing with the silly push nut design. If I do remove the wheel, I'll drill a hole in the axle for a cotter pin or even tap some threads on the axle to use a nut, which is how they *should* have done it. For sure I'm not going to put another push nut on it 🙃

I've gone with the cut the axle in half approach, there's absolutely no way to remove the push nuts while they sit in the recess of the wheel. I slotted the push nut with a cutoff wheel, and removed the top entirely, but that doesn't help one bit, as the sides are still corrosion welded to the sides. I've got it off now, and threaded the cut rod ends with a 3/8" die. If I can get a coupler nut I'll use that to reconnect it afterwards, or weld two nuts that I have in hand to make a coupler.

Thanks for your posts. I also wanted to get the wheels and red cover off so that I could take a look at the brushes. I wound up drilling a 1/8 inch hole in one push cap and then I kept increasing the drill bit size until the top of the cap was gone. At that point, I sprayed pb blaster in there and while prying out on it with a screwdriver, I was able to use channel locks to wrestle it off. Not pretty but it worked. My brushes appeared to be good and so did my belts but the machine is not working the way it used to, any ideas??? Also was the brush connection soldered on there? I couldn't tell. Thank you!

Hey, you're quite welcome!

You're welcome. Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome!

Awesome! 👍

No.

No difference.

Sorry I didn't catch your question earlier. Regarding the white pulley - I'm not sure. Never attempted to remove it.