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Josh Murrah
Приєднався 11 січ 2007
E3D+Bambu HF hotend on the P1P!
Let’s goooooo! My review of the E3D+Bambu HF hotend, tests, recommendations and more!
This video was sponsored by my overworked wallet and irresponsible spending habits!
This video was sponsored by my overworked wallet and irresponsible spending habits!
Переглядів: 544
Відео
Printed parts run through for the Milo
Переглядів 5155 місяців тому
Part of the LDO Milo build series!
Installing firmware for the Milo v1.5
Переглядів 3495 місяців тому
Part of the Milo build series! LDO docs wiring guide: www.ldomotion.com/p/guide/Milo-CNC-V15-Wiring-Guide Milo docs - installing RRF: millenniummachines.github.io/docs/milo/manual/chapters/90_install_rrf
A quick note on memory cards
Переглядів 1235 місяців тому
Part of the LDO Milo build - please use good quality memory cards!
Unboxing the LDO Milo kit!
Переглядів 3965 місяців тому
This is part of a series of videos documenting my build of the LDO kit, of the Millenium Machines Milo mini-mill.
Split flap display - how to build!
Переглядів 36 тис.Рік тому
Follow along as I go over my build of David K.'s great split flap display project! www.printables.com/model/69464-split-flap-display github.com/Dave19171/split-flap
BTT Manta E3EZ and CB1 overview
Переглядів 4,2 тис.Рік тому
A general overview of the BTT Manta E3EZ, and CB1
Transferring filament to Bambu Lab spools
Переглядів 39 тис.Рік тому
Link to models www.printables.com/model/407688-bambu-lab-p1-x1-x1c-x1cc-filament-spool-switcher-w/comments
Easy dry storage for 3D printer filament
Переглядів 12 тис.2 роки тому
Easy dry storage for 3D printer filament
BTT Octopus Pro and 5160HV drivers review
Переглядів 23 тис.2 роки тому
BTT Octopus Pro and 5160HV drivers review
Annex Engineering K2 at 500/6k - zoomed in and zoomed out
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Annex Engineering K2 at 500/6k - zoomed in and zoomed out
How to run your printer at twice the speed - 48v voltages for 3d printing
Переглядів 18 тис.2 роки тому
How to run your printer at twice the speed - 48v voltages for 3d printing
Annex Engineering K2 - direct drive Z - how to suspend 13 pounds of bed!
Переглядів 10 тис.2 роки тому
Annex Engineering K2 - direct drive Z - how to suspend 13 pounds of bed!
Annex Engineering K2 - 1500 mm/s @ 10k accel
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Annex Engineering K2 - 1500 mm/s @ 10k accel
BTT Octopus - walkthrough and features
Переглядів 8 тис.2 роки тому
BTT Octopus - walkthrough and features
Jaime Valdez layout at BBMRA Tallahassee FL
Переглядів 3923 роки тому
Jaime Valdez layout at BBMRA Tallahassee FL
T-TRAK-HO BBMRA layout Tallahassee 2021
Переглядів 9913 роки тому
T-TRAK-HO BBMRA layout Tallahassee 2021
PMRC N-TRAK layout at Tallahassee 2021
Переглядів 2263 роки тому
PMRC N-TRAK layout at Tallahassee 2021
T-TRAK Tallahassee 2021 walkthrough
Переглядів 4,2 тис.3 роки тому
T-TRAK Tallahassee 2021 walkthrough
A boring print job (with 1.2 M/s travel)
Переглядів 6 тис.3 роки тому
A boring print job (with 1.2 M/s travel)
start this way, now use them upside down lol...with rollers on "lid"
I can imagine that scary things happened the way you had them routed. I was soldering a connection and was not watching the length of my solder and it touched an adjacent cell and vaporized in a flash. I spot welded some short tabs on my four cell units and solder my balance leads to these. That is better than soldering them to that big tin square that connects each four cell unit together.
I looked at your pack. You have it yellow, blue + side and white green - side. Is that correct? I will move them to that configuration in the morning. It is to dark now to do outside stuff. Will let you know if that works.
I need some help. I must have screwed up somewhere, probably on the balance leads. My batteries have 3.8 volts and 19.06 on the pack. I have the balance leads - white, yellow on the + side and blue, green on the - side, in order, here. It will run my drill fine but will not charge. All I get is a short white light followed by a red that goes out after a second. What do you think?
can you provide a link for the boards?
my wallet know that i can't make it😅
Having a metal pail with a couple of inches of sand and some tongs or spade nearby to quickly handle a wildfire battery pack is also a good idea.
I have been disassembling some battery packs and some time I hear what sounds like air being released from the battery does anyone know what is happening
"Not too bad..." Yeah ! Right !
Hi Josh, my name is Martin, this is a great video but i can't find the wireing diagram on Kris's site can you please tell me where to get it from
No Russian
What JST Crimp tool(s) do you use?
Meanwell is Taiwanese. There are better supplies out there, but they are good enough.
where can i find the files for the hygrometers?
I think there is a misnomer going on here. Non power routing means that power travels to each rail regardless of the switch which is fine to carry power to all areas of a layout. Power routing should be renamed power on connected track only. I can't imaging what power routing would be used for unless maybe you had an auto decoupler right next to the turnout to say dump carriages on a loader line or something to that effect.
That tab is a key for a notch in the cardboard inside a refill, it also keys into a notch in the RFIF plastic strip.
What will be the cost to make a 20 character split flap display?
Code please?
Stop saying aaaah
Thank you. I appreciated the info.
Great video for us beginners - thank you so much. Can I ask where you got the holders for reader and desiccant
Had no sound or way to un-mute. I did find captions and was able to read them.
hahahaha this is a terrible print, the quality is zero
I know i am late, whats the hotend? Looks like a revo?
I have been trying to update the firmware on the board using the LDO supplied memory card but it doesn’t seem to be doing the update. could this be the memory card?
It says it is a SanDisk card
Hi are you interested in testing Fixdry products?
Стяжечка вот эта очень смешная)) На ней всё держится
Cheers!!
Detailed tutorial! If any custom PCBs/ 3DP/CNC'd parts can assist for upcoming projects? Would like to sponsor and reach any collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
hello, can you please add your plate setting in the description, thank you
I tried laser cutting flaps years ago but that involved a lot of hand painting (screen printing) of the flaps. The idea of 3D printing multi-colored flaps works very well. All 45 flaps fit on the Prusa XL in one go. I'm not sure which type of HALL sensor I have (still in the mail) but since I will use Raspberry Pi Pico (4 units on 1 Pico) I have to rewrite to software. That also allows me to optimize the thing a bit. @18:10 you'll see that the unit passes the '0' once before stopping there. This is (I think) due to a re-homing sequence that I have seen in the Arduino code.
nice place to put your phone
This HDR is the worst thing ever, please stop with this, this video is not even HDR, you just enabled it just to have it brighter
Just built a 6Ah with same kit, the DeWalt has no BMS inside the battery pack like Makita, the BMS is in the charger. This kit goes together very well with wire channels not shown in video. A bit more challenging than a Makita pack but very doable.
Do you have the same green plastic as me? At least it looks like mine, the label says green :)
Hi. Thanks a lot for the video!
You are welcome!
@@JoshMurrah Hi there, You mentioned the benchy's build volume is 254xyz, but isn't it supposed to be a maximum of 256xyz? Just a newbie question. Thanks for sharing!"
how did you manage to paint your frames?
these are anodized by LDO, they have lots of colors!
Why did you use all arduinos and an ESP01 to give wifi.... You should be able to do this all from a single ESP32 and either do a single PCB across the back that all the motors and sensors plug into, or do them in the PCB place here and make a jumper wire like you did to connect them all, but feed all the GPIO back to the ESP32... seems like a huge waste to do it this way, even with how cheap the arduino nano's are.
this is mostly due to the age of the project - back when nanos were dirt cheap and ESPs were a new and expensive thing. Also, there's something like 5-6 IOs per digit. I think in today's market, it'd make more sense to use a Pico instead.
@@JoshMurrah ah, gotcha, that makes sense.
Niedlich :-)
Hi, could you share this code with me ? I'm building a grade crossing for my layout.
can you share with us klipper cfg
You lost me at freedom units, that's so lame
Buddy you have a computer literally at your fingertips when you were typing this, but instead of using that time to convert the lengths to metric, you decided to get mad and be an internet bully for zero reason.
@@blakes8901 lol you muricans are funny, and a bit slow sometimes
Oh, so you're a child then. My bad. I prefer metric, because it makes more sense in my brain, but i also have enough basic common sense to use the resources available to me when metric isn't immediately available to me. You should wait to start 3D printing until you're a bit older, or at least make sure you have an adult supervising you. Good luck :)
@@blakes8901 lmao so mad about a UA-cam comment, I think youre the one who needs to grow up Metric system is superior but you are not ready for that talk
At least I don't lack basic levels of empathy and reading comprehension
I regularly get empty toner cartridges that are gonna be tossed since they've already been recycled a few times. I pull hardware out from them such as bearings and rods. Perhaps I should make one or two of these using those parts? 🤔
I wish you'd of showed it off a bit more - with flappy flaps. But thanks for a great video - I know where the project was 10 months ago. Thank you.
Wait - you've added esp32??? Is this in the github infos or .... where can I find current today info about starting a build with best practices??
🤘🤘
Good job!
I do N scale T-Trak and I connect my bus directly to the module in just about the same fashion as you do. I have received flak about doing this but I have also made adapters/plugs using the MIni Molex plugs just as you have when my bus needs to be plugged into a "standard" bus. My club quickly found out that my modules performed much better than theirs did, and now they pretty much have converted their modules to the same direct to bus as I have .
hi Josh, thanks for the video,, I really looking to print and assemble this display, I just dont get how I order the PCB, hope you can explain it to me.. :)
*Lack of cooling* says the guy printing at 335c lmao