Відео

Its a long time since I originally researched this now, but looking at another reply I mentioned the camshaft/crankshaft sensor as being another possible culprit for an issue like this, so maybe worth looking into that? I'd also recommend visiting/contacting evilution.co.uk as they're a great resource for all the Smart models.

This model doesn't have the 4H/4L option in the transfer case, the TC just controls 2WD/4WD and you get a really low 1st gear instead. As far as I understand it the configurations for the 4WD models were: 4 speed + 2H/4H/4L 5 speed + 2WD/4WD (& diff lock) Pretty sure that's how the TC lever in the cabin is marked up too - in mine the label was simply "2WD--4WD" whereas in the 4 speeds I think it reads "2H--4H--4L". Hope that helps :)

Yeah that helps. I just got a 4speed with H/L and difflock. But your offroad vid shows how capable the carry is with the 5speed. @@methinksperchance

Not if you live in the UK 😉

🤔

I used Renault 237964892R - there’s a step-by-step guide (and I think the Smart P/N too) on replacing the sensor at the Evilution website, which I would recommend as a resource for Smart maintenance (no affiliation, it’s just a good one-stop-shop for most issues on most generations of Smart!): www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?mod=1427

Thank you!

@@methinksperchancedo you have a link to where to buy? I can’t find it anywhere

@@stephencourtney324 I bought mine on eBay using the the part number as the search, looks like there's quite a few on there at the mo 👍

Yes, I pointed the clocks in that direction so they might show up on the video - when I drove normally they always faced me 🙂 (Sí, apunté los relojes en esa dirección para que pudieran aparecer en el video; cuando conducía normalmente, siempre miraban hacia mí 🙂)

Did you apply your foot to the brake pedal before attempting to start, as I didn't see any leg movement? Auto need foot on the brake as its a safety feature?

@@stuartpeyton188 From memory it's not necessary to hold the brake pedal down as you start the car - the car is an automatic but in the robotised manual sense, so it's a bit different to a standard auto in how it works. Evilution goes into detail about starting & driving these cars 🙂 www.evilution.co.uk/mod/driving-and-starting.htm

Standard engine but with the "N1" ECU upgrade which gives it a little bit more power (Supposedly 20% more, but that's debatable!). It went well though 😃

The car is long gone from my ownership now so I couldn't tell you, but a couple of comments down @bmabbs, who eventually owned the car (after it had passed few a couple of other people's hands!), has some info about how he solved the issue if that's of interest :)

Здравей, можеш ли да ми кажеш къде точно се намира този клапан, ако е възможно ще се радвам и на снимка. Благодаря предварително.

Great stuff - that's exactly what I uploaded it for 🙂 Enjoy the truck, they're brilliant little things!

It's hard to diagnose via YT comments but I'd say if your 453 feels more rough and has more vibration at idle than your previous Smart did then that's not "normal" - I certainly think the 453 is quite refined in general (my wife's had the diesel 453 and while it had a *very* 3 cylinder "chug-chug" diesel idle even that didn't shake the car or vibrate harshly). I think garages in general (good and bad!) can be a bit dismissive of Smarts - they're slow, noisy, unrefined, break down a lot, etc. - just because they're so different, so if you can find a Smart specialist - or even grab a quick test drive in another non-turbo - you'll at least be able to figure out if it really is "normal" or not, though as I say I'm not convinced from your description. Hope that helps!

Thanks! It was a vintage Collin's Performance BOV which had originally lived on a turbo-converted Ford Sierra XR4x4 - I did love the sound :)

I know 😩 It's just a mismatch between the shutter speed and the OLED refresh rate so and not noticeable in person... but still annoying on the video 🤣

Hi Ed, it's a bit of a faff in general but according to the sticker on the back of mine you have to make any changes in the following order: 1] Zero the minutes, 2] Zero the hour, 3] Set the date, 4] Set the day, 5] Set the month, including making sure the leap year indicator (to the right of the month) is right. On the leap year setting, it runs 1-4 and if it's a leap year it needs to be set as 4. So, for, example, writing this is 2022 mine shows "2" because the next leap year falls in 2024. Hope that helps - if you've been changing the date without zeroing the time perhaps that's where you've been running into issues? Cheers!

Yeah, I'd read a few (conflicting!) accounts on the web about what all the buttons & levers did to the 4WD system but it was only once I sat down in the car and went through it - and knowing how my Jimny worked - that it all started to make sense, hence why I tried to help others out with the explanation in the video! Not having the OEM gear knob would have thrown me out properly though, especially when EL is locked out in 2WD - how would you know where it was?! (>_<) I'm glad you got there in the end though :)

@@methinksperchance Thanks to my Japanese co-worker, at least I knew I was looking for something. I started searching how to use “EL on a super carry”, and your video explained it. The shift on the fly thing was new for me, as my US version samurai just had a good old fashioned two speed transfer case with a lever. It makes perfect sense now though. Thanks again.

F6A, just the 6-valve SOHC with no turbo - rated at a mighty 42PS 😁

@@methinksperchance I have Suzuki carry I buy the engine which is tha best k6a or f6a

@@shareefudeen4731 I think there are quite a few differences between the F6A & K6A but even within each engine series there were lots of differences - different numbers of valves, naturally aspirated or turbo etc. It's difficult to say which is the "best" because there were just so many variants! Hope that helps...

I don't know a lot about tyre & wheel sizes I'm afraid - when I replaced mine I kept them standard size and went with the Yokohama Y828 Super Diggers (even then I had to import them as it's such a strange size here in the UK!). In the US I've seen ATV tyres being used but I'd guess they'd be for off-road only as technically I doubt they'd be approved for the weight/speed of a kei truck. Perhaps a bit of Google translate would throw something up in Japan - スズキキャリッドDD51Tタイヤ [Suzuki Carry DD51T tyre] might be a good start (I usually look at the images and home in from there!). Sorry I can't be more helpful!

Congratulations on your new truck - they're great fun, enjoy! :D

Mine was relatively easy to remove but I have read they can be quite stiff, or sometimes come out in two pieces - the corrosion causing the idle issue is also what holds it in. You could try jiggling it from side to side as you pull to see if that frees it up? There's more info at this link regarding the solenoid, though it requires a paid membership to view (not my website but I've found it useful in the past): www.evilution.co.uk/mod/453-rough-idle.htm

The 4x4 in the Forest day at the Chase was really good - I'd done a very small amount of greenlaning in my first Jimny and my aunty tagged along in her Evoque(!) with very little off-road experience other than a Land Rover Experience day and we both got on just fine. It was certainly really good to have a proper leader and with plenty of other experienced people around for advice etc. Sadly I have a feeling the Chase events have stopped now :( What I would say is that a Carry is quite restrictive in the UK as far as off-roading goes - the usual pay-and-play sites would make mincemeat out of them, just because literally everything that uses them has miles bigger tyres and ground clearance and the ground is rutted and dug out to suit them. Stuff like the Carrys make the most sense doing forestry tracks and mild greenlaning but I think both of those are a lot harder to come by in the UK.

You may well be right, though I'd have hoped the Smart service department would've been able to diagnose and solve an issue such as that quite easily. Then again, some dealerships... 🙄

Surprisingly easy considering the cramped engine bay :) The start of this guide shows where you'll find it: www.evilution.co.uk/mod/453-rough-idle.htm - it's held in by one bolt which is easy enough to reach with a socket and extension. Then it just pulls out, with a little bit of wiggling!

@@methinksperchance Thank you very much for your answer and the guide! Just one question though, isnt that the crankshaft sensor? I thought this was the location of the camshaft sensor: imgur.com/a/zTvcdYW . Just a picture of the engine from google, not mine. Im probably wrong, just double checking. Thanks

@@mikaeleb2979 I think I've read that the same issue _can_ be caused my camshaft/crankshaft sensor issues, but the overwhelming majority come from a faulty solenoid valve as it's a known weak link. Here's a pic of the solenoid I removed (my website) methinksperchance.net/cars/camshaft-solenoid-valve-replacement/ - as you can see it's definitely designed to manipulate oil flow rather than just being a sensor :) Hope that helps!

@@methinksperchance Thank you very much, super helpfull and much appreciated! Ive just ordered the renault part and I'll start from there. Hopefully that solves it :)

@@mikaeleb2979 No problem, hope it sorts things out for you! :)

Mine was pretty good unless I parked it at a certain angle during heavy rain 🤣 But yes, they do have a bit of a reputation and it's kind of deserved...

Mines leaking :’( i have brabus roadster

They all leak. Thats why Mercedes stopd prodction on the roadster

I got mine via eBay as the solenoid is shared with the same generation Renault Twingo - there's some debate over whether Smart improved and updated their version of the solenoid (because there are two Smart part numbers for the same item), but I'm also not sure if that solved the problem so I just bought the Renault version as it was easiest to find, and the cheapest! This is where I got mine from: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164257357829 (listed as "GENUINE RENAULT TWINGO CAMSHAFT SENSOR").

@@methinksperchance wow I really appreciate the help, thanks so much for the link!

It didn't jump out at me as being overly sensitive or light - perhaps it wasn't the most communicative, but to be honest that kind of suited the low, stiff, go-kart like feel of the car. A true helmsman might feel differently of course, but it didn't bother me 😂

@@methinksperchance many thanks

I'm sure I remember fitting a new earth strap with this in mind, but my records suggest I didn't buy one, so maybe I'm mis-remembering... it was a long time and many cars ago now! You might well be right though 😊

Hi Erkam - great question! They're a really fun car to own but they're not always the most straightforward to maintain as well, depending on what's required. However, there's a great website called "Evilution" which is very helpful if you want to fix and maintain a Smart yourself - they also have a very honest buyers guide for Roadsters which you might want to look at: www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=info&mod=1167 Hope that helps 😊

It's not recommended for systems like this where there's no centre differential - on loose surfaces the drivetrain can naturally equalise any rotational differences between the front and back axles whenever the tyres slip a little, but on the road that's not really possible and so it causes the drivetrain "binds up". This can cause parts to break in the extreme but there are also other tell-tale signs (for example if you forgot to disengage 4WD by accident after joining a road) like steering that feels tighter than usual, or maybe even gearchanges that are getting a bit sticky. tl;dr - just apply whatever you read about when/where to use 4WD on a Suzuki Jimny to this vehicle too :)

@@methinksperchance It would make an interesting EV conversion :)

Exhaust note

Yes, a standard feature :) I have a vague memory that upgrading to the Brabus Roadster intake (or "TIK") pipe frees things up slightly and eliminates the chirp, but I loved the sound so didn't look at that in detail.

Yes, they do. It sounds way better in person 😊

Totally agree! It was great fun blasting round tiny B-roads but it could also do a great impression of a mini GT car - there was loads of room for luggage and it had good motorway manners too. So versatile for such a small car 😊

Better have a garage. I had one and it was like a swimming pool in the passenger footwell after a night of rain. Good fun to drive tho'

Long gone I'm afraid :) As I mentioned in the description I made the video a good while ago but only made it public recently for anyone interested in import Wagon Rs - a bit niche I know (>_<)

@@methinksperchance Yes I did notice but thought worth a try👍

There are model codes for 2WD pickups (DC51T), 4WD pickups (DD51T, like this one), 2WD vans (DE51V) and 4WD vans (DF51V) - there's also the Suzuki Every, which is basically a passenger version of the Carry van, which can be had in 4WD too. I think you generally just see more pickups than any other variant, but doesn't mean 4WD vans don't exist :)

Is yours the twin-box setup (which mimics the standard exhaust) or the single-box (where the mid-box is deleted)? The one in the video is the single box and makes a massive difference compared to a factory twin-box exhaust, so that might be the reason for the difference if you do have the RC40 with both silencers...

@@methinksperchance yes mines a single box Rc40 and I don’t see a difference

Hi Matthew, no problem! Parts are relatively straightforward - there's a site called megazip.net which has the full OEM parts catalogue for loads of Japanese vehicles, including the Carry. There's also people like Jesse Streeter who can help you with used parts from places like UpGarage and Yahoo Auctions Japan (the Japanese eBay equivalent). In both cases you'll pay import duty as the parts are from overseas. Insurance-wise I was with Adrian Flux, SD&P for around £400 (I'm in my 30s) but I think the person who bought mine got his cheaper than that. Hope that helps!

P.S. I ran a JDM Jimny, Wagon R & the Carry using a combination of MegaZip & Jesse Streeter - see methinksperchance.net for my ownership experiences if that'll help :)

@@methinksperchance awesome thank you for your reply

Last question (i think) wrt to moving it on did it take long to sell and if you don't mind me asking how much did you end up getting for it?

@@matthewwheeler9037 It didn't take too long to sell - maybe 2 or 3 weeks? - but the guy who bought it valued the fact that I'd fixed all the off-the-boat niggles in the year I owned it, so perhaps that helped. I didn't lose too much if you look purely at the purchase & sale price but those niggles cost me a lot of shipping & import duty - not something you have to factor when buying parts for a UK car :)