Відео

Well at 4:54 and 5:00 marks I am removing the clips that hold the sides of the switch panel in place. These clips are removed by pushing in the center of the clip which will release the clip and you will be able to pull out the clip. To reinstall the clip you push that center pin out towards you and then push it back in where the center pin is flush with the main pin. You can use a small screwdriver, pen or anything small enough to push this center clip in to release the pin. In the video I am using the end jack tip on my aux cable. These pins are like $1 each at Toyota. Super cheap and simple. Btw I didn’t talk in the video because I was trying not to be annoying as hell like most people on UA-cam and everywhere online. I was trying to show its simple and easy without rambling like a lot of people. A lot of people thanked me for not running my mouth like most people these days. And by the way sometimes these clips easily break especially with age.

Haha yes things easily fall into that area and it’s annoying for sure. It’s an easy disassemble and takes a few mins. And you might try just removing the plastic flat piece under the handbrake and see if you can access it easily without disassembling the whole area. Maybe if you remove just that piece you can see it and use a magnetic pen and retrieve it. If not it’s nothing crazy to take apart and put back together. Good luck 👍

@@lyric.kayden thanks again. It looks to be a no stress thing to do for me.

Your very welcome and glad you found it helpful 😊 I felt bad later after making the video that I didn’t talk or say what I was doing exactly but some people appreciate that it was straight to the point lol. Thank you and take care 😉

Hi, sorry for late reply. I used the uA setting on my multimeter but you can use mA or mV either one. I believe those two are only a difference of like 1 watt of measure or so. I would try it on mA and see if you get your reading and if not then switch over to mV. This will all depend on the amp itself but I’m just use to using uA on my multimeter and I haven’t tried mA or mV because I’m use to using uA. Just start with trying mA and next mV if you can’t get mA to read but you should have no problem with mA reading properly. And again these both mA and mV can be used to measure. On the back of your Archon whether it’s 50 watt or 100 watt you’ll see your bias reading points a couple red and one black for ground. And on the top of the chassis right behind the back metal cover you’ll see a hole with a plastic insert. Bottom of that hole is a flathead slot and very much like a guitar pot for volume/tone. Do know that the slightest touch left or right can be a lot. Very very simple and once you do it it’ll all seem simple. Also sometimes it’s best to recheck the bias a week or so later and do a final tweak if need. And of course over time tubes will drift a bit and that’s to be expected. Hope this helps ya :) If you have anymore questions or need anything just let me know.

Hi, I have no idea how I never received a notification two years ago when you commented. Sorry I’m getting back to you so late and I’m sure by now you’ve figured out your question. But to answer your question yes V1 is closest to the input and phase inverter should be the one closest to the power tubes at the back and next to the power transformer. Take care and be well.

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Bias pot it at the back on top of the chassis. You should see a little hole and a plastic ring that goes around it. Inside that hole is the bias pot with a straight slit like a potentiometer and you’ll just need to use a small but short screwdriver to turn it + or - Do understand the slightest turn will be a lot and most times you barely just gotta nudge it to have it go +5 or -5 and of course you can go more than that but most times not that you will. I believe 30 is what PRS recommends and of course you can go up to +5 or -5 depending whether your looking for more warmth or cold. A lot of guys like amps warmer but that does work the tubes a little more and you might narrow the lifespan slightly. And some guys like a cold bias and I think metal players probably would. Just dial to taste and start with 30. So Warmth 35, 34, 33, 32, 31 + (30) - 29, 28, 27, 26, 25 Cold

Ok thanks...no thanks to prs for not telling us in the manual...so i have to google and scratch my head...

@@supermanwhereareyounow3081 no worries, no worries. Yes it’s nice PRS provided all this outside the chassis as most companies will place the bias pot internally and also they don’t even provide bias reading points and then you have to dangerously find the points inside the amp. So it’s great on PRS for providing all this for the user. Now as to why the manual doesn’t state how or whatever is because they don’t want those who might be inexperienced to go tweaking the bias pot and going to high or to low which is easily done. Adjusting the bias is easy but then again some people can make an easy task a real nightmare. Most times most companies say leave it to a qualified technician because they don’t want the user damaging the amp and then blaming the company. And again it’s very sweet they provided everything on the back vs some manufactures who give you no test/read points and you have to tap points internally and then the bias adjustment is hidden internally as well. Great amp and love mine. Have fun and rock on. Oh and btw yes the manual is trash and definitely could have been better lol

I love mine too...I am used to biasing my marshalls..all amps should be like this...I have my eyes on a brand new Dallas 40 tucked away at my dealer that nobody cared for..so I hope I get there and buy it before somebody else realized what a great amp the Dallas 40 is..it is the original version with Paisley cover..

@@supermanwhereareyounow3081 totally understand and awesome. They definitely made this amp very user friendly for biasing and any work that may need performed in the future. I’ve had the head out of the cabinet twice and each time I look at the guts I just get a big smile on my face because of how well it was thought out, no PCB and lots of hand-wiring and a similar build to a turret board which makes fixing or modding simple. None of that PCB and solder bath that makes fixing issues a nightmare. And the power amp tubes and pre amp tubes are fixed to the chassis and the transformers are nice and big. That Dallas would be a sweet addition for sure. If the money is there it’d be a cool one to snag for sure. Hope it works for you 👍 Btw they have a new Archon out but looks built differently and built in Indonesia instead of the US. It’s cheaper so probably no more nice job inside lol. Nothing wrong with PCB if it’s done right but just saying lol.

Hi, yes 35 watts is correct which the Archon transformers can handle and I reached out to PRS before to make sure which they confirmed I’d be good to go. The tubes sound really great. The tubes offer a bit more clean headroom on top of the amazing amount of headroom this amp already has. The tone is very nice and balanced. I would say for some reason the eq for each channel appears to be more noticeable/dynamic allowing you to tune in exactly what your after - very nice. The Archon is already insanely loud and so I’d say that it definitely helps in volume slight increase and lots of dynamic. I would also recommend anytime when replacing your power tubes to also replace your PI Phase Inverter 12ax7 tube since this tube works a lot more than the other 12ax7’s. For phase inverter that you cannot beat is the Sovtek 12ax7lps - best phase inverter tube on the msrket that’s new stock. It really helps the Archon tone wise and helps open the amp up more. Be sure to get it balanced for sure. And a Tung Sol 12ax7 in V1 is great. Let me know if you have any more questions 😊

@@lyric.kayden hey, I appreciate the great input, Glad to hear good things from the experience you have with it, finally done searching, i just placed an order for everything mentioned, can't wait. Thanks for the recommendations!!!

David Liu your welcome lol. Yeah I cannot stand people who do those things as well. I was just trying to be quick and to the point :)

Jessie Hydro I would in my opinion place them at what PRS recommends. The bias number on each box is more less a number for when matching tubes and not a overall bias number for what the tube is. Most if not all 6L6 based tubes are 30ma. If PRS says 30ma than you can be between 25 to 35 overall as a whole set. The lower the number the less wear and cooler you run the tubes - less warmth and sometimes dead to the ear. Higher the number the warmer and more wear on the tubes but sweeter and dynamic. You gotta find that sweet bias area. Sometimes if the manufacturer says 30ma than typically 30 sounds pretty good or possibly 32 -or whatever. Again ignore box, that’s only for matching tubes. If it’s a 6L6 it’ll be within the 30ma range already as it’s build is around that. So set at 30ma overall as a whole whether that’s a dual or quad set of 6L6’s. Then you “may” try 5 -/+ to your taste overall as a set because you typically only have one bias trim pot. But if it sounds perfect at 30ma then no need to worry about 5 -/+ and this is only if you wanna try a little but it must be overall reading of 30ma with 5 -/+ give or take. For example: Quad Set - 30ma, 28ma, 31ma, 29ma - Great (Factory-ish like setting) Quad Set - 35ma, 32ma, 34ma, 33ma - Great (this would be that 5+ ish) Quad Set - 26ma, 28ma, 25ma, 27ma - Great (this would be that -5 ish) Numbers don’t have to be exactly what I listed but just giving examples.

johnsenn03 lol haha thanks. Yeah it's a very simple job and as shown here done one handed lol.

Charles Hicks lol thanks. I guess it's a good way to show how easy it is if someone can do it one handed lol.

Your welcome :) Thanks