Відео

Thank you. In most cases the fuse on the cobra pin board should be enough. They need to be dimensioned accordingly. I would not put two or more magnets on one fuse though. That would require quite a strong fuse and at some point your wires/connectors would burn before the fuse.

If it complains about the server crashing you should figure out why that is the case. It might be that something with your MPF installation is bad. I am not an expert on Windows Python environment. However, I know that it can sometimes be tricky to have the python home set up correctly and that might be the culprit here.

In most cases that would be the number of windings/turns of the wire. You can find a table with typical markings here: flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Thanks :-). We got support for custom ejectors in MPF. One way would be to implement them in Python. Out of the box you can use "event ejector" and tie your motor into those events. We got a minimal example in the docs: missionpinball.org/config/ball_devices/#ejector. Guess that area is kind of underdocumented.

@@jabdoa it works! I ended up using confirm_eject_type: event (which was right there in the documentation the whole time, but I only found it prompted by your reply.) Thanks!

Hey :-). Which error are you getting precisely?

@@jabdoa Traceback (most recent call last): File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module> NameError: name 'version' is not defined >>> >>> >>> Traceback (most recent call last): File "<stdin>", line 1 Traceback (most recent call last): ^^^^^^^^^^^ SyntaxError: invalid syntax. Perhaps you forgot a comma? >>> File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module> File "<stdin>", line 1 File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module> IndentationError: unexpected indent >>> NameError: name 'version' is not defined

@@Pinballmadness Never seen that one. Kind of sound like you installed Python 2.7 instead of 3.x? Did you follow the tutorial for the python install? Which platform are you using (mac, linux, windows)?

@@jabdoa yes I followed the tutorial and using windows

Not sure why the resolution is that low for you. Whats the best resolution you can select? For me that is 1080p which allows me to read the listings.

In modern systems you use PWM and 48V for that. That gives you a lot of initial power (for 10-20ms only) and then some 20-30% duty cycle (20-30% on/70-80% off). I did a video on the electronics basics which describes how coils in modern systems work.

@@jabdoa Thank you!

That is cool! Glad it helped you :-).

Glad you liked it :-).

Thanks :-). You need to resize your window (there can only be one) to span two monitors. Then align your display widgets so that they fit the physical monitors (i.e. first ist 0-1920 and second 1921 to 3840 in case of two HD monitors).

@@jabdoa Yes I managed to do that, I used the written tutorial on the website and I have my four “displays” in one big resized “window” al working fine! The problem I have is how do I get each “display” to show not in the window but on a physical monitor. I ordered a usb-c to 4x HDMI output but have no idea how to split the screens from the “window” to the actual monitors. From the tutorial there is some blank space between the windows but this doesn’t seem helpfull when you start using physical monitors?

@@Rene86 That really depends on your computer. Your PC has to be able to drive that many displays. Then you "extend" your desktop to all of them so that you can move the mouse to each one individually. When that is done just span your window over all of them and it should just work.

Sure that would work. I think most existing bingo machines are from a time where they still used AC only in the machine. However, electronics-wise you should be able to build them just like more modern pinball machines.

Good question. I know that there are at least two revisions of it (green and black). Not sure if they still make it. Guess best way to find out would be shoot them a line ;-).

@@jabdoa Thanks, I did just that and they are coming out with new expansion boards to handle this.

Awesome! Please let me know how that worked out :-).

@@jabdoa Thanks to the video I successfully created the pcb ( it just arrived 🙂). I only was wondering about the price. It was quite expensive to let jlcpcb put the electronics on the board and it's just a couple of resistors. Maybe they have kind of "high" base price and with more expensive electronics like rgb leds the price would be ok. I'll see when I create a pcb boards with rgb leds.

@@stefku76 How many did you have them populate? They got minimum qty for most parts (10-100 depending on the part) and you got some handling fee. It becomes quite a bit cheaper when you produce more parts.

@@jabdoa yes that could be the problem. I ordered 5 PCBs and each has four different resistors, two piece each. Not that much. Actually I redesigned the PCB to solder myself. But I don't complain, because the produced PCB is much prettier than that ones I produce... :D

Not impossible but also not very likely. We did not perceive much demand so far. This might be due to the size of the machine. Another reason might be that we do not feature a known theme with all the connected hype. Might also be bad marketing or something else ;-). One of the realities when building pinball machines at a reasonable (but still high price) is that you need a certain volume. Producing one part is maybe twice the price of producing 20-50 parts (because tooling still dominates the costs instead of material). Unfortunately, we do not currently see a market to sell 20-50 machines. And we would have to sell them before producing them since they would take up a lot of space and capital otherwise. Yeah manufacturing realities are not fun :-).

Glad you liked it :-).

Thanks :-)

It depends a bit. Usually those deliver around 10A. It is very important that your PSU is over-current resistant. Otherwise, it will turn off when pulsing coils. See docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/voltages_and_power/voltages_and_power.html for typical models.

@@jabdoa TY, yes iv read that. So if I'm right (like a noob) 400 watts PSU it will be good.??

@@milantocinovski8614 for 10A at 48V (U*I) you need at least 500W. That is also what Stern uses in their machine. I would recommend to get that exact same Meanwell. Its reasonably priced and does a very good job in pinballs.

@@jabdoa ❤ TY, man. You help me a lot. Im waiting the day like a small kid. TY one more time.

Cobrapin/OPP is definitely cheaper. Easier depends on your definition of easy. FAST offers node boards which are distributed below the playfield. More components are by definition more complex but also offer some advantages (such as less wires and extensibility). Cobrapin is one large board and probably more wiring. Generally, CobraPin/OPP are more DIY-style than FAST.

@@jabdoa TY very much.

If you properly configured the wing as serial LEDs it should work for all those WS281x LEDs. Their timings is mostly the same and they usually just work. Make sure the cable to the first LED is rather short as the STM32 has a 3.3V signal which is a bit lower than what WS281x uses (5V signal) but it usually works fine for a up to one or two meters. You might want to ask more specific questions in the MPF forum: groups.google.com/g/mpf-users. A lot of OPP users hang around there.

For PCBs with a few LEDs almost any program will work. Eagle, KiCad, Target, EasyEDA, Fritzing or anything else. Does not really matter as long as you are used to the software. KiCad is pretty good in my opinion though and you can do almost anything with it.

Hey Brad. That sounds like an undertaking. This would certainly be possible but also tricky for some parts as there are quite a few parts inside the machine. We also fabbed some boards on our own. Playfield has been produced by a professional playfield factory but the print in the current version has not. We even got newer art which we did not print yet. Most of the things exist in CAD (i.e. all sheet metal, PCBs or the playfield). However, they all require manual changes afterwards (i.e. bending metal or some manual tweaks to the playfield). Even the cab has been custom made for us but we had to make some modifications because the design hasn't been perfect on the first try. We can talk about this but the effort to pull this off would be huge. Expect at least 10k in parts (probably more) if you build a single machine (parts would be cheaper per machine if you build 100 machines but we have to buy stuff as replacement parts).

Hi there, I’m ok with what you outlined above and that pretty much lines up with what I expected. I’m thinking that some close up pictures of things will help me piece together missing information, and that I’ll need to work out some of it ad him and with prototyping. I would love to pull it into cad too, so if you have some drawings already that would be a good start. Otherwise I can reproduce cad diagrams from an isometric pair of photographs (side and top). Anyways, seems like fun.

I’m guessing this is something like a six month project since I can piggy back off your build a little bit and I’m betting that it took around a year of effort for you. I would like to know if you think it would take longer than a year?

@@bradsnobar1378 hard to tell. It took us about 5 years to get it to that state. We invested roughly one evening per week. Depending on how much time you invest this might be possible. Its a lot of parts to source and produce. Some might have very long lead times and for others you might need multiple approaches to get them right.

Alright, I should have something like a day per week (sometimes two) to get there. I’ll still give it a go, even though it is a way bigger project than I thought.

High voltage is up to 50V. Above that the capacitors and maybe the FETs will break. You can use any voltage below that. If its much lower (such as 5V) the control LED might be almost off but besides that it should still work. To your question: You can use 30V but you need DC. AC will not work with this board. You would need some rectifier to use this board. Theoretically you can use different voltages for different coils (so a few 48V and a few 5V). Just make sure everything is fused and you will be fine.

Thanks for your feedback :-)

Technically, yes if you rewire and reprogram your machine. Practically, you probably want to have a look at other boards such as LISY or a Multimorphic P-Roc. The former offers emulation and can also be controlled by MPF to power custom games. The latter can be used for custom MPF games and there is some way to run emulation on your PC as well (for advanced builders). Both of those boards interface the existing wires in your machine which is nice if you got an existing machine.

Hard to tell from your description. However, you bought a commercial controller and the vendor should be able to support you on how to get their hardware working.

In that case I would use all of the shots as a condition in your state machine. Each individual shot can be tracked by counters/shot devices or other means. Makes sense?

@@jabdoa Yep, that helped, got it working now. Thanks for the quick response! In the future, should I be posting these types of questions to the google group or is there somewhere better?

Thanks 🙂

Yes that is technically possible. You can either use the MPF Unreal bridge to use MPF for all the game play and Unity for graphics/sound/video. Alternatively, you could also implement some hardware interface for the P3-Roc in Unreal and run everything in Unreal.

1. You can use ethernet or WIFI. I guess in a pinball machine you generally want ethernet. Serial (over USB) might be possible as well but I did not try that. Everything which is supported by pigpiod works. I got the RPi in my network but you can also run a direct link with static IPs. 2. Currently, MPF has to run on the RPi for rpi-rgb-led-matrix. Technically, we could implement a bridge for that but nobody did that yet. Would probably be worth the effort.

Yes and no. Adding it to the PCB allows you to omit it on your coil and is a vital safety feature of the board to protect FETs + CPU. However, from an EMI perspective it is still an issue because a rather high voltage spike has to travel from the coil into the board. Since your wires are not insulated this will emit RF signals. For a homebrew this can probably be neglected but for commercial machines it might become an issue during certification.

I suggest to use docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/events/machine_reset_phase_3.html if you want to add images. That will happen after asset loading finished.

Unfortunately, you cannot simply copy VBA code to MPF. VPX and MPF work a bit differently conceptually.

@@jabdoa I see, so What you recommended in this situation?

@@jabdoa I found a bridge From MPF to VPX that is talking about 3 year ago on gihub, is this is something that will control the Vpx with MPF ?. For example if a bumper get hit on the MPF it can communicate to VPX that is been hit that bumper?

@@floydpr8359 Yes that is still a thing. There are a few people using it. There are some quite advanced games which later got build as a homebrew but started using VPX and MPF using the bridge. There is some documentation here: docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/virtual/virtual_pinball_vpx.html

@@jabdoa Thank you, I will se What I can do with this! do you have Discord or telegram that we can talk ?

Wow that is weird. This worked. I recorded the timestamps by watching the video. Hopefully this is just a UA-cam glitch as the original video has already been deleted on twitch. Sorry :-/.

Glad you learned something :-)

Thanks :-). Credits for this work go to Dave and Avery. They nailed the feature. I was just presenting it to the world.

@@jabdoa Team Work 👍

You mean the maximum number of WS2812? Or the number syntax? Both depend on your hardware controller. For instance, fadecandy supports 512. FAST 256 and PD-LED something around one thousand.

This DMD is controlled via USB. Could be a Raspberry Pi or any other computer with an USB controller (almost any today). You can show any widget on the DMD (have a look at the MPF documentation docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/displays/index.html). This includes the score of multiple players or anything else.

Welcome :-). We generally recommend to develop the game on some powerful desktop/notebook and deploy it to the RPi later when it is mostly done. If you want to use an Arduino as pinball controller I recommend to have look at APC (Arduino Pinball Controller) in the MPF docs.

Thanks! If you are using VPX (or VPE) you can start to programm your in MPF from the beginning (as there are integrations). Afterwards, you can drop in some hardware pinball controller and should be able to run the game on physical hardware within a few hours and minimal changes (setting switch/coil numbers and adjusting timings mostly).

@@jabdoa Thank you very much, I will look forward for this I am a noob doing all this but I am very sure that I can do something good. I is a way that I can contact you for share or show you the project that I am planning ? If so you can contact me at floydpr@hotmail.com or I have discord with the same email. Thank you.

@@floydpr8359 We got a discord here: discord.gg/V55KgR5u

Those connect to CobraPin or any other WS28xx controller (such as Fadecandy, FAST Nano, OPP or others). I created a video about those here: ua-cam.com/video/iMeX1qC4EA0/v-deo.html.