- 13
- 59 956
Sole Power Tuning
Приєднався 25 тра 2009
All things two stroke related. Machining, fabrication, tuning. A busy full time shop with updates.
Suzuki T500 Sidecar Engine Update
Season 2023 went out with a bang…of a blown con rod. Pretty good season overall, but some changes need to be made for crank reliability.
Переглядів: 130
Відео
Yamaha TD1C Project
Переглядів 212Рік тому
This is the intro to the Yamaha TD1C project. The plan is to get it built, test it here in the US, then take it road racing in Ireland!
RD200 explanation
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
Starting the second RD200 race engine for this years' Race season. Different rods, pistons, packing plates, plus pipes.
Suzuki T500 Sidecar Blown Motor Inspection
Переглядів 808Рік тому
At Barber Motorsports Park this last year (October 2022) we lost a cylinder and destoyed a piston in our T500 sidecar rig. Inspecting the problem, and how we converted from oil injection to premix. Also discussing future plans for the engine.
Byron's RD200 Engine Inspection
Переглядів 753Рік тому
A quick look at Byron's RD200 race bike engine. It's been thrashed on the track for 3 years and is looking a little worn, but race season is fast approaching!
Introduction of the Sole Power Tuning Two Stroke Channel
Переглядів 469Рік тому
All things two stroke! Brief introduction to Sole Power Tuning.
Measuring Lambretta/Two Stroke Big End Bearing Wear
Переглядів 1,6 тис.6 років тому
Using little end side shake to determine how worn a big end is on a Lambretta (or other 2 strokes) crankshaft. While it's difficult to give a universal maximum wear limit, some quantifiable measurements can be used.
Sole Power RD200Chambers
Переглядів 6966 років тому
The first set of Sole Power RD200 expansion chambers. Sent to me by my customer. Nice increase in performance! Coming out of the first turn you can hear the pipes come on and the engine start to pull away. I've got some minor changes to make on the next set, then I'll build a jig for them and make a batch!
Lambretta J50/125 upgrades and expansion chamber
Переглядів 7 тис.7 років тому
Just a brief description of the Sole Power Scooters J50/125 upgrades. And demonstration of the J expansion chamber that will be available for sale soon. I'm almost completely sold out already, but I'll be making another batch.
Lambretta Cento Expansion Chamber
Переглядів 1,1 тис.9 років тому
Prototype Lambretta Cento expansion chamber. Runs much better and is a good increase in power. It's a cento barrel that I bored to 125cc and ported, stage 4 porting only. PWK 24mm carb. The exhaust is un-groundable and is neatly tucked below. This one doesn't fit with side panels, but some small changes to the silencer angle and header pipe, it will. It'll cruise all day at 50-55 mph, with over...
Lambretta Crankshaft/Piston height/Conrod Length Explained
Переглядів 28 тис.10 років тому
There's a lot more that I'd like to say on the subject, but this is a brief primer on crankshaft and piston variations for the lambretta and how they are used. There's many more piston conversions available too. I didn't go into port timings, that'll be a separate video. Hope this helps explain things a little bit.
Lambretta/Two stroke crankshaft truing
Переглядів 10 тис.11 років тому
Discussing the process of crank truing, using what i call the "quadrant" method. Hope this helps or answers somebody's questions. Thanks for watching
I would love to do pretty much this exact thing with my RD200. Would you ever be interested in selling the finished crank or doing this to my crank? If not would you be able to make the cylinder spacer for purchase? My plan for the bike is just to race around on roads. Currently the bike is all stock I ordered expansion chambers for it and am waiting for those. I know that it would be cheaper to leave it stock or buy a rd350 or 400 but the bike came from my late uncle in a box of parts.
I have most of a 1967 TD1-C with B barrels . (needs Forks & body work -maybe pipes ) was Duane McDaniels bike back in the 60s . Needs a deserving home .
Yamaha once made a TA125, a engine based on the same bottom end. The close ratio transmission could be useful, but probably hens teeth now.
its so hard to get power out of these old piston port 3 port transfer engines
Hi great video and information. I've just bought an RD125 all in pieces with a complete RD200 engine The biggest issue for me is trying to find RD200 Carburetors as thete like gold dust What I've come up with is to buy a matching pair of complete Suzuki gt185 Carburetors in great condition Someone said they were same size as RD200 Carburetors which they are but the part which push fit inside the reed block rubber adapters is very tight, So I've mill the carbs and they now fit perfectly I can't find original or new pattern Carburetors anywhere in the uk. On ebay Are you using new Carburetors and if so could you please help me to buy a pair for my RD200 engine, You would think you can buy Carburetors nowadays for any vintage bike, I intend to port mine also and hopefully the gt185 Carburetors work, You will be surprised how many people born in the sixties had fizzes, rd50 rd125 and RD200, I had also the rd250 and rd400 although they seem to be very heavy, The next step is to try to find a pair of Microns but in original good condition they fetch over £1000 its crazy, I did have a lovely Suzuki X7 250 and saw some original Microns for sale but price went from £100 to £900 and I refuse to pay that, I will either use original exhaust and perhaps buy new expansion chambers for around £500 for the pair. But its Carburetors which seems to be the biggest issue especially in the UK.
I thank you for this informative video! Especially for showing the crankshaft! Now I know what tool I need to make to rebuild my crank and that I could play with the connection rod types without large problems, as long as I take care of the cylinder height... Will a Suzuki AX100 connection rod from China work (for a road bike up to 25/30 hp)?
You are the first person explaining removing oil injection Im building a race motor t500 and going to drill holes for lubricantion Can you please send me info on where to drill and size of hole. I would greatly appreciate any help. Ty sir
Hey! The inner bearings still get lubricated with gear oil. For the outers, about 1/4” hole is about right. Maybe a bit smaller. I don’t recall. Just line the bearings up on the locating pins, and mark the oil inlet of the bearings. Put top case on, make a mark, line up (I did by eye), and drill down through. I filled the holes with oil to make sure oil fed through correctly.
@@MrLloyd0071 Ty sir. Going to do this mod next week. I greatly appreciate the reply I race at bonneville salt flats so its a short sprint. Just need to keep bearings lubed for a few minutes at a time
Would love to see / hear more on this
I can't wait to watch this project come together.
Look forward to seeing the vids - nice work man!
MON!!!
Nice Fred Perry shoes
Good luck with the channel Adam!
I'm getting around to riding my SX again. Keep up the content!
Cool!!! I look forward to seeing the updates 👍
Nice one!
Love it! I got a two stroke that will start and die and another one that won't idle. Both outboards...Fairly sure the idle jet is clean...about to check that again. I think the Mercury won't get gas. Anyway, working on it. Thoughts appreciated.
What transfer port duration do you aim for?
How much would it cost to have an expansion chamber made and shipped to the UK???
Lambretta upgrades Ltd. In the uk cheaper than MB
Dope
Honourable shout to MB. We'll done Sir!
Quick question for ya ive got a 125 series 3 conrod and a tv175 series 1 barrell and head i ordered a conversion piston for the barrell and it ligns up the same ports and such and gives me perfect tdc and squish is 1mm can i use this combo or do i need to install the 175 crank w it? thx cornfused
how much for a set
In my Suzuki A100 workshop manual, below 0.12" is standard con rod small end shake!
That's more than likely side clearance. That's linear, not in a "bearing wear" sort of measurement. I've not seen any specs for the side shake in the manner I'm discussing, except for Bell's tuning book. For example, when I rebuild a crank, I normally use (depending on manufacturer's specs) 0.011"-0.015" big end side clearance. That's the distance between the con rod and the crank wheel. The small end has a similar clearance requirement, which is normally wider than the big end clearance.
Clever cookie
Ha, this video is a few years old now. I have more success with billet barrels since this one, but it at least proved to me it could be done!
Im working on a kx250 crank and it was at .014" run out and i could smack the fuck out of it with 2 pound brass hammer and it doesn't change anything but you give yours a little tap and it moves wtf
That's because the cranks I'm working with are notoriously easy to spin out of true....which means they're easy to knock around. This video is old, but I just did an 82' Suzuki PE250 crank, which is probably comparable to yours, and it took a ton more force to move around! I placed one side of the crank on top of a flattened tree stump I have here (for sheet metal work mostly) and hit the "floating" end...heavily and many times! A bit dangerous for sure! It took a lot of work to move it 0.010". If you're gonna try that, be careful!
MrLloyd0071 i trued it with the half not pressed all the way on made it way easier
could you list all the parts?
where can see more pictures of it ? looks great !
How much would it cost to ship one out to the uk? quality bit of engineering this, also sounds very well far better than the original.
Yeah it's tough. Spent forty hours, practiced a lot, still didn't get one crank right. Messed up one by wallowing out the web holes. I always wonder why such a small tap with a hammer can make a crank run out of true, but the massive twisting forces of the flywheel , drive components and conrod don't?
I always worry about the same thing! And I've seen too many cranks twist out during running. That's why every crank I rebuild gets welded. Just a few small welds that are easily ground out later. The key to truing is having a system. This old video is my system. I've done a lot of cranks since this video! I'll have to make a new one where you can actually see what I'm doing!!
My thought would be grind a very small chamfer on the pin before pressing together, then there'd be a recess to lay the bead into. Would be a pain to get it apart again though. Thanks for viddy, haven't watched it yet but will do as soon as some spare time pops up.
darren lopez i can hit my crank petty hard and it doesn't change it not even .001"
Nice engineering solution to pipe mounting there dude. Scoot sounds crisp, and willing to rev
Hey was up bro I'm looking for the a crank stand like the one you have can you tell me were you got it from..and I like the video you made with the barrel for the 2 stroke. .
blimey ! that was an excellent tutorial thanks. i have been trying to piece together bits of information all over the net to make sense of this and you've done it in one video. The only topic not covered was port timings . TV175 barrels are very scarce. If I were to use a series 2 Li150 barrel (long) bored to 62mm (175cc) and a standard series 2 Li150 crank and fit a long 116mm conrod ( TV175 pattern) and an original TV175 piston (short) how would the ports in the series 2 Li150 barrel line up with the TV175 piston ? is this a feasible combination ?
I actually completely understood, yes it is very dark but I can see well enough to learn something. Thanks!
how can i contact you about buying one
+Nadine Selway , Hi! Well, they're not for sale yet. The prototype works great. I'm still deciding on the way forward with production, but I will definitely be making them for sale once they're made!
hi i would like to know if possible if i could buy one of these exhausts please how can i contact you
Thanks for the vid. very helpful. Still learning. I just bought the bgm 195 racetour kit. What conrod and crank would yoou recommed? I just want a little more speed. Don't want to race. Thanks
Crank mazzachelli road race. Use the rod it comes with...I say this because its cheap and reliable. My TS225 does high 80s mph. Sits all day at 65 mph...crank cost me £120 from Glasgow Lambretta centre...
dude use a SIP race crank 107 rod 60mm stroke . you will need to add a 1mm base packer this will give you more cc and about 6 degrees more advanced port timing ..... should give you around 2 to 3 bhp more .....
Awesome! Good work!
I love it.. where there is a will, there is a way.
This was really useful. Good explanation on difficult subject. A lot of info. Great stuff!
Wish I could see what's happening. Truing a crank can be a real.pain and any tips from a pro.would be helpful. Its the sort of job I have to do once every couple of years so advice from someone who does it.regular would be helpful..getting them in to bearing races without.knocking them out of alignment.is.my.problem..crank in freezer.casing warmed with heat gun is my method. I can sometimes fit them just by hand. No pullers and no hammers . . mot even leather hammers etc. .
***** yeah, really sorry about the lighting. I actually have every light in my living room on! My laptop just records dark like that I guess. I'm good with wrenches, terrible with cameras. ha It can only be out of true in 4 ways. The key is to systematically find out which way, or ways, it's out. I have it down pretty good now. I've done a bunch since this video.
Are you making barrels for series three as well. . I've tried most top end kits now. TS steel lined is what I'm.using now but always looking for something new. The LTH your using is same one I used when converting piston ported to reed.valve and I.found the LTH to be best manifold for conversions.
I have built ser 3 barrels. Still in testing mode currently. I'm going to be re-doing my fin method to look more like a standard barrel. I built this barrel before I bought a milling machine. The success of this led me to invest more money and time into barrel making. I have some big plans!!
How much difference to torque/revs does the length of the conrod make? is it short conrod for high revs but long conrod for torque/mid range power?
good afternoon .li 150 almentar cylinder piston that forced use.
Could the reed valve fit on the iron barrel?
I can double check, but it should be able to fit. The studs certainly will, but not sure how the carb will sit. It may hit the casing.
***** Thanks could you tell me what reed kit it is?
Are you using a Sunny flywheel and fan cover?
I'm using a sunny cover, but the rest is italian.
I think in this case, to avoid confusion, a consistent terminology is important. For pistons: high compression height and low compression height and for rods: long and short works but I prefer to use length in mm and the diameter of the small end in mm as some popular Lambretta tunes use pistons with 18 mm wrist pins while the standard pistons used 16 mm wrist pins. Rods that are used in Lambrettas: 107 x 16 (original) 110 x 16 Yamaha, 114 x 16 and 114 x 18 (Deanspeed), 115 x 16 Yamaha (as in your video), 115 x 18 (Rotax), 116 x 16 (original TV175), 116 x 16 (various "racing" rod kits from Europe), 116 x 18 (Wiseco Hot Rods Yamaha), 120 x 18 (Rotax), all of course depending on what piston is used and the tuning done to the cylinder. Are there a lot of Lambrettas in Pennsylvania? Good twisty roads over there.
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks!
What piston did you use?
A yamaha TZR 125 piston. I can be used in a stock barrel, but either has to be welded up on the skirt, or run without a filter. Too much intake timing, which leads to a ton of blowback. Of course, reed valve fixes that problem.
Good video. Thanks. Do one on port timings please.