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Glad to help!

That's the best! Working with your son to show him that not everything needs to be disposable! Glad it worked out well for you.

Glad you found this helpful! It took me a few times under the van and surveying the space to get this one figured out. Hopefully it only took you the 5-minutes of watching the video to get it done!

It's not an absolute. If yours is dried and does not create a good seal with the PCV valve, then I'd say replace it. If it is still a good seal when fitted with the PCV, then it's not necessary.

Actually, surprisingly easy in the van once you find the correct angle. Handle of the ratchet must go along the firewall and point down toward the back of the passenger's side wheel. You got this!

If you have dual-zone climate control up front, then your setup is different than the one depicted. I believe that you would have a separate blend door for the driver's side if dual zone.

@ScottyWrenches I dont have dual zone climate controls

There is only one PCV valve. On this particular set-up, Honda placed it directly into the breather box on the back of the engine, which is why it is so often overlooked in maintenance.

@@ScottyWrenches found it when i took the whole system apart yesterday, on d15b7 engine the pcv valve goes in a rubber gasket mount thingy sitting right under the intakemanifold and then a tube goes from there directly to the breather box. A hell to screw apart

@@ketvaa the d15b7 has a different set up. My video shows the D16Y8. Glad you figured it out on yours!

@@ScottyWrenches What is part #2 in the diagram?

@@vinnyrusso1994 That's the PCV valve for the D16Y8. The other part listed (#6) is a PCV valve, but that's for the D15 engine (or maybe the B16A DOHC)

Short answer is "yes, it will only move part way with middle temp settings." HOWEVER, it sounds like yours has a newer temperature setting that is digital readout, which means the motor will go full open/closed until the set-point is reached, then it will move to the middle position to be a steady state temperature. I don't know that for sure, but that is the only thing that makes sense.

Thanks for the input! The right hand drive set-up would be a little different.

It does need to be checked when the fluid is at operating temperature. Check with the engine running (in Park for safety) to keep the fluid in the torque converter, otherwise, your reading will appear high on the dipstick.

@nathanheinlein8506 I don't believe so...

Van ran fine...no misfires or hesitation. It just had the CEL code. The trouble is that the computer could no longer fix the fuel mixture within the factory parameters, which sets off the code.

You MUST remove the black push peg that is at the bottom near the blower motor before the tube is moveable. Check out video at the 5:00 mark.

Also, It looks like the 2005 doe s not have that tube. That started in 2006. I think the blower is directly connected to the evaporator core. The blend actuator should be accessible without having to remove much besides the glove box, according to this pic (LINK) f01.justanswer.com/H0ho0va7/ToyotaSienna.jpg

@@ScottyWrenches Yes it has the black air tube and yes, I can wiggle is because the black peg has been removed. However, can't take it out.

@@josephl6788 You have to loosen the bottom first, then move to the top and wiggly it toward the blower motor, then work back and forth from the bottom then to the top until you can get the bottom moved to the left and the top moved to the right. You should be able to drop it from there

my 04 LE has the duct

Did you use the flex head ratchet? If not, then you WILL NOT be able to angle downward away from the firewall. You would be stuck using the shorter handle ratchet in that case. The FLEX-HEAD ratchet is shown at 1:52 in the video and is one of the "tips" to getting this done easily.

Glad you found it helpful!

I hope this is a quick solution for you!

It's really fairly easy once you get the bar extension along the back of the block toward the passenger wheel well

Hope it helped!

It's more likely you have an air leak after the MAF sensor. Check the rubber intake tubing between the MAF and throttle body. That's just my guess with the next on the list to trouble shoot.

@edwinomarhuizardamian16 What is the code that is read? You need to know why the sensor is misreading. If it's the P0171, check out my other video on trouble shooting that. View that video here: ua-cam.com/video/wfpvWIJ0s_s/v-deo.html

Toyota PN 89467-08070 for Bank1 Sensor 1 A/F Ratio sensor

@@ScottyWrenches I’ve been prying on the tab of the sensor and it won’t seem to come off…is there anything else that I need to do aside from prying the tab with a screw driver?

@@yycgiglife4714 Push in toward the sensor with the wire plug, then squeeze the release, then pull back off the sensor. The connectors are made to fit tightly so vibration doesn't cause a disconnection problem, as well as to keep dirt and water out of the connections.

@@ScottyWrenchesso this is the b1s1 sensor which everyone calls an O2 sensor but I think it’s more precisely an a/f sensor..air/fuel ratio sensor ??

@@chilitodayCorrect, the first sensor nearest the head is always the A/F sensor.

Yep, even when you go to reputable mechanic or the dealer, it can seem like they fire the "parts-cannon" first, then trouble shoot second!

Did you use any thread sealant with the new PCV valve? Is it required?

@@vistablue2984 no thread sealant required on the PCV valve

Bank 1 and Bank 2 AF sensors are different. Front (Bank 2) is 18-inch wire length, while the rear (Bank 1) is 7-inch in length.

Gotcha thanks

Having both codes means your engine is lean on both front and rear banks. Chances are you have an air leak somewhere between the air filter and the throttle body. My guess would be that one of the black rubber air intake hoses is cracked...the one closest to the throttle body, as that is AFTER the mass air sensor, so that's where you would get "unmetered air" into both banks. But for the extra $10, I'd say do the PCV valve while you're at it (especially if you haven't already replaced PCV)

Mike- PCV and breather box balance pressures from the crankcase (meaning below the pistons) and the head (the space above the pistons). This helps prevent blow-by of oil and reduces some of the inefficiency of overcoming pressure differentials. That is most likely why you see improved smoothness and MPG. When stuck or leaking vacuum, the PCV will also allow more air into the intake possible causing a too lean air-fuel mixture condition.

Glad that helped you!

Not sure what you are asking. Please clarify so I can help you.

Honda Factory Service Manual does NOT mention to go counter clockwise three (3) teeth. This is a practice that I carried over from working with B-Series engines to pull slack out of the "long" side of the belt that runs from exhaust cam to crank pulley. This allows the tensioner to fully tension the belt. If the belt is put on the pulleys in the correct order, then the long side tension should be fine. Sequence for mounting the belt is 1-crankshaft gear, 2-Adjusting Pulley, 3-Water pump pulley, 4- Exhaust camshaft pulley, and finally 5- Intake Camshaft pulley

PCV is a one way valve. Air should move toward the vacuum hose and NOT the other way.

I did all work with the tires in place while it was on the jack stands. Even the long lever had room under the wheel:)

​@@ScottyWrenchesI practiced removing the connection from the easy 02 sensor in the front of vehicle and it was somewhat difficult to press the button and have it wiggle out. Hope I don't break something below. Wish me luck.

@@tsukki_amv2848 Try squeezing the clip to "unlock" it while pushing it further into the connection, then pullback. They are tight to prevent water from getting in, so sometimes pushing in releases the clip more easily. Best of luck!

@@ScottyWrenchesprecisely “what” clip? There are four sides to the coupler. I can’t get the sob to decouple

@@chilitoday Should just be able to pinch the clip. One side of the "coupler" has the clip that you pinch. The extension bar goes toward the passenger side wheel well.

Glad that it helped!

Another thing, as pcv is essentially one way valve, if it's too difficult to remove it, you could test it by blowing air from a hose intake end and it shouldn't get through, but if you suck it back it should, do it by using your lungs not a compressor.

I can only speak to the del sol D16Y8. I would imagine that the HRV is tougher with the braces and transfer case for the AWD, all put into a smaller front end. Thanks for the information. The part number does not cross reference for my vehicle (del sol). PS- replacing the grommet is a great idea if it's hardened. The hardened grommet could cause a vacuum leak.

That's one way to test it while in place!

Hello. Did you manage to change the PCV of the HRV? I need to change it since the section of pipe is crushed and I will have to do it from the ground, removing the oil filter...I cannot access it well below the intake. Tell me details or tricks to remove it please.

@@gorrioncico I did, barely. Best way is to use two modified flat screwdrivers to pry it, one goes through a hole between 2 i 3 intake other underneat, best to use another pair of hands, remove injectors and as much stuff around the intake to free space, good luck.

Once the hose is dropped back down in place (with PCV valve attached and clamped), I was able to simply line it up with the grommet and it slid in with little force. Make sure you have it centered...That might be what is holding you up. Otherwise, is the PCV the same diameter? If not, there is NO WAY it will fit.

If grommet is hardened (being for too long there) it's going to be hard one, try putting some grease onto valve end...

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Easiest to do on your next oil change as the filter will already be out of the way!

@@ScottyWrenches 🤝🤝💯

I hope that works for you! Let me know if the Highlander is accessible that way.

2008 in video, but based on looking at Toyota engine schematics, this process should be the same from Model years 2004-2020