Відео

Glad this helps you!

Thanks for the observation.

I never tried it without the saw plate. I’ll be interested to how it works out for you. Should be fine as long as you keep the saw tight against the fence. The router plate works great. Love it. Enjoy and thanks for reaching out!

Glad it was helpful! I will be using this tool very soon. It's one of my favorites in my shop. They are getting tough to find and are expensive, but they are worth their weight in gold!

Haha, by the way, I'm 54 and haven't seen the 'not parallel' symbol since 10th grade. Threw me off too.

Thanks for the feedback. I had to look at the video to remember the whole thing about making the saw parallel to the tool. I had completely forgotten. Two things to add for you. Set it up so your guard is actually being used. Forget about the non chip strip, unless they’ve improved it. Mine never stuck longer than a week. Other than that, great tool. Cheers, Marc

It’s a great tool. Hope it works well for you and thanks for reaching out!

Thanks. I still make and sell some. My technique has evolved and I have made a few other videos on the subject, if you’re interested. Cheers!

I’m getting better at turning these now. I can turn a new snowman or snow woman in just over an hour. I also turn my own noses and eyes now. Takes another 30 minutes to do that. BTW, I have updated videos on the snowman/woman concept. Check those out, please

Thanks. Still my most popular item when I attend craft sales.

Interesting idea. I’ll have to give it a try the next time I run end grain in my planer. So far, without any chamfer, I’ve been lucky. But this trick is an easy way to increase the odds.

Thanks. No, I don’t have a link, but if you send me an email at mleblanc123@videotron.ca, I’ll send you the pdf files. Warning, they are hand written, but they work.

Thanks, my friend. Lots of fun doing this, but glad and relieved it’s over.

Thanks for the feedback. Couple of things to point out after further use. The zero clearance strip kept ungluing itself from the track. I’m no longer using it. Second, I have adjusted my setup so that the guard works unhampered on my saw. Safety first! Cheers, Marc

Thanks for your comment. It’s actually pretty simple. Remember that you will do two sets of cuts on the table saw. For the first set of cuts, you can cut strips of various widths, which is what I ended up doing. If I recall, the narrowest strip was half an inch and I increased by a quarter inch for each subsequent cut. In my case, I cut similar strips of walnut and maple, so I had a half inch wide strip of each, etc. Make sense?

Merci, Marc. Je dois t’avouer qu’il y a beaucoup de soulagement de pouvoir mettre ce projet dans le rétroviseur. Très content du résultat final, en tout cas.

I’m very, very happy (and relieved) with the end result. I did not know what I was getting into, believe me. I spent today cleaning out my shop. I took all my tools out and cleaned everything. Lots of dust everywhere. I’m beat…

Thanks for the feedback. I’m always looking for observations regarding what I could be doing better for my own safety. Appreciate it.

Cheers, mate. The actual finished product is the one that’s really spectacular.

Thanks for the feedback. I had a straight edge prior to the Bora system. The clamping mechanism broke, so I needed a new solution. Also, my experience using a straight edge was not very good: My cuts would drift away the further I extended my arm. Speaking of safety, I was not very comfortable with that situation! I looked at tracksaws, but found them too expensive. In the end, Bora has a nice package for a decent price. Now, an update re the blade guard. When I shot this video, I was also using their zero clearance strip. That thing turned out to be flimsy and useless. Without this add on, I have no need to set up the saw and not use the blade guard. I have since reset my saw on the plate and the blade guard is absolutely being used properly, once again. Like you said, shop safety is important, even on this side of the Atlantic. Cheers

My pleasure!

Yeah, I don’t think I explained this very well. If you cut plexiglass on a table saw, the material has a tendency to jump around, to flutter, making for a very jagged cut. If you add the 1/4 in ply, the material does not jump around and the cut is very clean. Well worth the extra effort and material. Cheers, Marc

Thanks for your comments. I’ll share a couple of updates with you: First, I got rid of the zero clearance strip. It just kept ungluing itself from the track. That allowed me to realign my saw so that the guard can now do its work. Be safe!

I’m not aware. I can tell you that the system is pretty versatile. I would not worry too much, especially if you can return it, if something really does not work out. Cheers. Marc

Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate you subscribing!

A router sled would be best, I agree. I always take very light passes in my planer, but it’s not a guarantee of no kickback or tear out. Thanks!

They are adjustable cut line indicators. I’ve stopped using the zero clearance strip, so these indicators are useful to line up the saw. Cheers!

@Marc LeBlanc Thanks...I thought that's what they were. It was great to get the confirmation!

Phil, I ended up building a dedicated cabinet for sharpening and all my turning accessories. This is in my new shop. I also added a turning tool rack on the side of it. The design of the cabinet comes from « Build It, Fix That ». I made it wider and added the tool rack. The cabinet is also on casters, which is ideal for moving it around. I can send you a picture, if you want. Just send me and email at mleblanc123@videotron.ca. Cheers, Marc

@@mleblanc1234 thank you for reaching out. I think I found an example of tool rack. It uses pcv pipes to hold the tools but it's still attached to the wall. So I may have to find something that is heavy enough to put on the base of the rack to avoid from tipping over.

And, it is the most comfortable method anyway. Agreed with you. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks, bro. Still having fun making wood shavings!

To your first question, yes, I mean having the grain go in different questions. As to your second question and if I understand your action, I don’t think it really makes a difference. I have not tried it myself. You might have to make sure that your pieces have the same lateral dimension, ex 2 in square. Try it out and let me know. Cheers, Marc

Glad this video helped you, Dale. Please note that I have made a few changes in using this too;. First, I have reset the saw so that the blade guard can do its work. Of all the tools in my shop, the circular saw is the one that truly scares me. Enough with taking undue risks. Second, I ended up getting rid of the zero clearance strip. It just would not hold on to the track, even if I added more glue. While this situation will invariably end up giving me uglier cuts, at least I won't be fighting with the plastic strip anymore. Do you have the same issue?

@@mleblanc1234 Hey Marc, I’ll let you know. I got the saw mounted, and the weekend hit, so have not tried the system out yet. I tried using the Bora track simply as a straight edge, but the results were poor, so I’m hoping the saw plate fixes that.

@@mleblanc1234 Marc, I was able to set up the saw with the blade guard functional, and, was able to use the non-chip strip. The setup was not trivial due to the competing specs (far enough away from the plate so the blade guard works, close enough to the plate so the blade cuts through the non-chip strip on the first cut). Based on your comments, on the first cut, I added some scraps to my cut so the strip was fully supported below by plywood. So far so good, but not sure how long that strip will stay attached. I also made a video of the setup if interested (@diy_daleprojectguy) where I give you thanks for setting me on the right track...pun intended.

I’ll check it out! Thanks

I just love the place, but my wallet does not. Very dangerous place for me. I was there on day 2, myself. Couldn’t make it on day 1. Cheers

I just took a look at the Bora Website and saw the new plate. Very different design, indeed. If mine breaks, I'll look at that option for a replacement. Thanks!

Glad I could help. Believe me, you and I are not alone with this challenge!

Thanks for your comment. The Craftex filter is rated at 1 micron, which is the same as the bag that comes with the dust collector. However, the many ripples of fabric in the canister dramatically increases the filtration efficiency. As to the WEN unit, it has two filters. The internal filter is rated at 1 micron, while the outside filter is rated at 5 micron. I usually change the outside filter every month or so. I’m in the shop almost every week day now. I produce a lot of saw dust! Hope this helps you. Let me know if you need more info. Cheers, Marc

@@mleblanc1234 Thanks for the details, it helps. I am just setting up my workshop, have bought a 1.5hp King cyclone dust collector with 1 um filter and while not having done much work because I need to set up dust collection on my Ryobi miter saw, I don't know how much ambient dust I will have. I also have a Dewalt DW735 planer, a 6" jointer, 10" band saw, table saw and belt sanders. But it sounds from what you are describing that the WEN unit is still needed.

Yes. The dust collector will do a good job with chips and most of the dust, but the WEN will do a complementary job with fine dust that will invariably float around in the air. Just think of your miter saw. It's notorious for ignoring any dust collection system, meaning that the ambient air will be full with fine particles. That's where the WEN comes in handy. Sounds like you're on your way to having a great looking shop. Enjoy!

Sorry for the late reply. I was away on vacation the past couple of weeks. I think using these formulas with metric measurements is even easier. In my video, the example I use is for a 12 inch wide by 14 inches long and 1 and a half inch thick cutting board. I'll make it simple here and convert these values to an approximate metric equivalent. So, the cutting board I'm trying to make is 30 cm wide, 35 cm long and 5 cm thick. For the width, it's easy: The total width of my initial strips needs to total 30 cm. For the thickness, I just need to set my table saw to cut 5 cm wide crosscuts. Assuming that my initial strips are 6 cm thick and that my table saw blade is 5 mm thick, the formula gives me an initial length l = (H + b) x L/h, which is l = (5 + .5) x 35/6 = 32.083333 cm. I would round things up and have my initial strips be at least 33 cm long. Does this make sense to you?

Thanks for the feedback. I have since gotten rid of the zero clearance strip. The glue did not stick after a while and the strip kept falling off while I was setting up the fence. Very frustrating. I will revisit how I set up my saw on the plate. You are correct in saying that what I’m doing is dangerous. Thanks for the observation. BTW, of all the tools in my shop, the circular saw is the one that scares me the most. I need to fix this situation. Agreed re the measurements and the setup. I may do an updated video in the future. If so, I’ll incorporate your observations. Finally, thanks for the comments on the channel. I’m just having fun with it. Cheers, Marc

My pleasure. Hopefully, you have better luck than me with the zero clearance strip. Mine kept ungluing itself and I eventually got rid of it. Let me know if you have better luck. Cheers!

Wow, thank you!

Thanks. Glad it could be of help!

My pleasure and thanks for your comment. I have had problems with the zero clearance strip lately. The glue is not strong enough to hold the strip in place. Have you had similar issues on your end?

C'est un vrai beau projet. Le lien pour le plan pour le manche se trouve dans la description du vidéo. Le stand existe encore et il a toujours fier allure. Comme neuf, même aujourd'hui. Si tu as des questions, n'hésite pas à me contacter. Bonne chance!

@@mleblanc1234 Merci mon cher! Je te tiens au courant... ;)

Happy to help!

Hi Jonathan, I have not done any adjustments on mine, so far. I do have the instruction manual. Do you have it? I’ll look into it and would be glad to provide a video. After all, I’m probably due checking my alignment in the first place!

@@mleblanc1234 I reviewed the instruction manual and the focus is more on setting the infeed height, then min and max stops. The actual end parallelism is not covered adequately. Why do I care - I am getting bowed edge joints when I do over 30" or so. the first 6-8 inches has a small curve so the boards do not match perfect side by side...

I’ll look into it on my end. I do remember seeing a very detailed video by the Wood Whispeper a few years back on how to adjust your jointer. I know he has a PowerMatic machine, but the principles should apply. Have you looked into that video?

@@mleblanc1234 Yes I watched this one - ua-cam.com/video/gO746cuRqV4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheWoodWhisperer. Key is the powermatic has a different adjustment system from the Craftex. What nut or x do I turn to raise the far end of the infeed table?

I think I know which ones to use for the adjustment. Would you be open to doing a FaceTime call sometime this week to discuss this over a video call? Seems like it would be simpler to bounce off some ideas that way. My phone number is (514) 443-7889.

Eric, as long as your blade will cut into the tape, you’ll be fine. Just note that the exposed part of the tape is not very wide. In my case, that meant that the guard of the blade has to be in a position where the blade is exposed. Pretty scary. Also, I’ve run into an issue with said tape: it keeps un gluing itself from the track. I ended up using some CA glue and clamped it up using spring clamps for about 10 minutes. So far, so good. As for changing blades, I had not thought of that. Good point. I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. I do love this track saw system. I recently bought the router plate and it’s awesome. I have a video out, but I might do another one as I’ve picked up a bunch of good lessons to share.

@@mleblanc1234 Thanks for the quick reply! What if I didn't use the tape when using a 120 blade?

Not sure as I have not tried it myself. You might get a lot of tear out, nothing that could be fixed with a good sanding. Best of luck!

Ed, you could, but I’m not sure that would work as well. The bottle stopper attachments that you can find commercially have a set of rubber gaskets that offer a good seal around the bottle opening. You could not achieve that with a wooden stopper and I’m not sure how well it would last if it ever got wet. Cheers!

@@mleblanc1234 Thanks for your response. I decided to try turning a taper on a twist-out cork and it worked out rather well. Twist-out corks appear to be a composite made of ground cork and a binder. I drilled a ¼" hole in the top of the cork to the proper depth for my screw chuck. I turned one for a golfer friend and glued a ¼" dowel in the hole with enough left proud for him to mount a golf ball on it. I placed another into immediate use and have a spare to experiment with for fitting a wood turning. I am thinking of having the wood encompass the wider top of the cork and pondering exactly how to proceed with that.

Appreciate the feedback. I never heard the term « wood saver », but I like it!