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Hi! Have you considered making an adapter to use it also as a follower/travelling rest?

handy job

If they were off a lawn mower, it is very common for them to get that bad. It was good that you could use the lathe to get the remains of the bearing out

These flat drive are a waste of time there nothing but trouble

It is great to see how you made the fixture plate for the head. That was a lot of work but it looked like it turned out great

You should tighten the four "dowel" screws one at a time instead of loosening them all and tightening them all each time you are trying to position them. The way you did it ensured you introduced the maximum number of variables each time - not the way to arrive at a result in the quickest manner.

21:09 - Camera excursion when the lathe isn't rotating the chuck. 24:49 - A lot of eccentricity between rim of the chamber and the cylinder socket. 25:54 - 1) Who is responsible for the geometric relationship between the piston dome and the chamber? 2) If this is a twin, are you modifying the other head for consistent C/R?

Is there a sealing joint that fits there or is it metal to metal facing .

Did this increase the compression? Did it reduce valve - piston clearance? Don't know much about Ducati except desmodromic valve train.

Did you check the runout of the outer face when setting up on the lathe? If that wasn't affected by the weld repair it would be your best surface to dial the inner face that needed to be machihed square to the axis as they were probably machined on the same setup in the factory. That face has to be dead nuts square to the axis of the cylinder given that this is a bevel head and and any deviation would negatively affect the meshing of the camshaft bevel gears. From other comments I understand it worked out fine but I had to point out the above detail about the gear mesh. The fixture was brilliant by the way.

Life of a jobber. 98% set-up 2% task....... Nice work.

My dear old Dad used to bore out the JAP 350/500 inlet ports on a fixture when I was a lad.

love that fixture.. great work..

Quite a lot of work to save the head, but probably worth it. Did you skim the other face to keep the depth within tolerance?

Very clever solution.

A far display of savageness and inaptitude.

thats really good welding ive sent your facebook a pm

Dont give up your day job.

Part 1 sets the story of why & what we're doing here - ua-cam.com/video/v4v6m-aj9JM/v-deo.htmlsi=41dG0JEEeOIKKeDM

Those frames are very strong. Many years ago my uncle had a Fiesta pull out in front of him on his Triumph Tiger Cub. It causes some minor damage to the forks of the bike which was easily repaired but the Fiesta was written off. That was a lot of work but it came out great

I need to remove the needle to get the number plate off to put back into the inner ring on my brown & sharp dial indicator. I have seen some pry off the needle then press it back on, are they all that way?

Another factor here is that these frames were not made with precision originally, plus, God knows how often they would have been involved in accidents of one kind or another in the last 60 or 70 years, so any brackets may have been bent and re-bent many times.

With your boring bar - I think the chatter issue is due to boring bar deflection lowering your tool height below centre which messes up the insert cutting angle. Because boring bars protrude a lot by necessity and are not well supported by the tool post as a result, they tend to deflect downwards slightly under cutting pressure. Normally if you raise your tool height a fraction above centre height, once you start cutting, and it deflects downwards slightly, it brings your insert back to centre height so that the rake angle on the insert is correct & it can cut (plastic deformation) as designed at the correct speeds & feeds. Just a suggestion to try next time. Sorry if you already know this. 👍

You made a right dogs dinner of that one!! Wonky handle and too small surely!!

I can't imagine why anyone thought it was a good idea to cut off the mounts for the centre stand but at least the frame is in the right hands now. We need to make a part to hold a spring for a starter/generator on one of our projects and I was pleased to see you made your pin in the same way we were thinking of making ours. This is a very interesting project and I am looking forward to following along

You have all the most "interesting" jobs😉 One has to wonder at the childish behaviour of the owner to butcher a frame for a miniscule bit of extra ground clearance.

Very good. I have a channel too and I am restoring a Harrison mil. I had to make a housing from continous cast for a new knee lead nut that I made. I wish I could have cored it like this, would have saved time and material. Didn't have suitable cutters. I have subbed to you. I am Carl by the way.

What is the minimum diameter?

This was an interesting project and it was good to see how you tackled this

I found this a very interesting and entertaining video; those annular cutters saved a lot of time!

Very helpful. Where did you get your belt from?

The cutters seem to be working very well. This is an interesting project to follow, thanks

Hi . I'm thinking on buying a Colchester triumph lathe. How do you find them? Would you recommend one to someone one? Are they capable of doing some bigger jobs? Id like to be fit to make digger pins and bushes..

Distortion is a bitch. Filler rod and beveling is important. After all, the end result looks great!

That was interesting - thanks. I saw the other comments but it's also the difficulty of doing one offs where you only get one shot at it. Cheers

Live and learn from your mistakes. A little too much heat and likely changing up your welding order would be helpful as well. Not adding any filler over a non beveled butt weld is a weak weld as you've discovered. You could butt the joints up, run a grinding wheel over the joint to include a slight bevel to allow more penetration and weld with filler metal. If the welds are ugly, you can grind them smooth and there will be adequate penetration because of the slight bevel prep from the grinder. Keep on Keeping on!

way way way too much heat, tac it way way way way way more if you don't know how to weld

Did u clean the metal? Prior ?

Those longitudinal cracks are bizarre. I don't think I've ever seen anything like that in mild steel. I know you said they were autogenous welds, but does it still happen with er70-s6 filler rod? My instinct would be try try silicon bronze tig brazing. It would be plenty strong for a chair and it has really good elongation. Might also be very pretty. For the distortion I'd try tacking to the table.

0.005" eccentricity is the outer limit for brake drums. Grit blast the thing and fit modern SAFTEK linings....

And I have a no4 with no arm

Shouldn't you align that to the bearing surfaces?

Makes me glad i stopped machining when i see jobs like this.

Sounds like the Central Line on the underground!

The non-flux end of a 3mm welding electrode works just fine!

It was very interesting to see how you repaired this

Do you get a lifetime suppliy of 99's now?😂

Variety is the spice of life and you get plenty of variety.

The wheels are very cool and they look fantastic polished. The rear wheels are huge

It must have been like polishing the inside of a barrel!