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Engineer Steve
Приєднався 9 кві 2019
Making a Chuck Back plate for my HomeMade Lathe Spindle
In this video I am installing my chuck back plate on the new spindle for my vintage mini lathe. Subscibe to follow along with my lathe projects en my new homemade milling machine!
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/adi-goldstein/i-dont-need-your-love
License code: IENTUENMMOENYVEX
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/brock-hewitt-stories-in-sound/ages-ago
License code: YAHUBZMI9IEA4YST
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/adi-goldstein/i-dont-need-your-love
License code: IENTUENMMOENYVEX
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/brock-hewitt-stories-in-sound/ages-ago
License code: YAHUBZMI9IEA4YST
Переглядів: 2 079
Відео
HomeMade Lathe Spindle [Vintage Mini Lathe]
Переглядів 5 тис.9 місяців тому
In this video I am making a new spindle for my Vintage Mini Lathe. Please consider subscribing in order to support me in making more and better content! Thanks for watching... Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/moire/bees-in-the-garden License code: LWGHNVY1VKAWZL1I Memories from Bensound.com
Enhance Your Mini Lathe with these 3D Printed Accessories!
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
In this video I show some 3D printed upgrades I have done for my vintage mini lathe, the parts are printed on my Ender 3 V2. Please consider subscribing to support me in making more and better content!
Jasic Tig180 Welder Review: The Most Affordable TIG Welding Solution on the Market?
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
In this video I review my new Jasic Tig180 DC welding machine. Subscribe to support me in making more and better content! Real world test on a Jasic welder: ua-cam.com/video/s4MSFlTAwZY/v-deo.html
Homemade DRO - CONTROL PANEL [Homemade Milling Machine]
Переглядів 1,4 тис.Рік тому
In this video I start working on the DRO - interface for my new homemade milling machine. Subscribe to stay tuned and to support me! Check out this video for the Design of my Homemade Milling Machine: ua-cam.com/video/tjRI7zBK9aU/v-deo.html Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/hartzmann/clear-sky License code: BF43K3NQ4AYUQ5CD Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat....
WAY COVERS for the Mini Lathe
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
In this video I show how I install way covers on my vintage mini lathe. Please subscribe to support me in making better and more content! Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/soundroll/your-love-is-what-i-need License code: EX9SUHRQUJTWTZQE Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/pryces/lateflights License code: TUHZV3KEIXP63PYO Music from #Uppbeat (free for Cre...
PLASTIDIP Your Tools!
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I show how to plastidip (or spray) tools to create an ergonomic grip. Subscribe to support me in making better content! Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/soundroll/all-the-things-you-love License code: QCHMXE3RRH1113BR Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/hartzmann/sunny License code: UMNK0AKZJ7YPU2A9
my Homemade MILLING MACHINE [design]
Переглядів 18 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I show and explain the design of my new Milling Machine, Subscribe to stay tuned for the build! Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/adi-goldstein/i-dont-need-your-love License code: IENTUENMMOENYVEX
Homemade Milling Machine - Infinite SPEED CONTROL
Переглядів 3,5 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I show you the driveline for my new homemade milling machine with a single phase - 3 phase VFD! Subscribe to support me in making more and better content! Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/soundroll/poem License code: PKBQEWTY2T0RTL5I Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/prigida/moonshine License code: QWK6YWXHTAIE7D4E
First test & Installing lead screw of VINTAGE MINI LATHE
Переглядів 9862 роки тому
In this video I continue working on my vintage mini lathe, installing the leadscrew and performing a first test. Subscribe to support me in making more & better content! Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/brock-hewitt-stories-in-sound/ages-ago License code: YAHUBZMI9IEA4YST Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/soundroll/your-love-is-what-i-need License code: ...
Putting a Motor on my Vintage Mini Lathe
Переглядів 3,1 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I finally put a motor on my vintage mini lathe. Subscribe to support me, more lathe videos: ua-cam.com/video/UTmzdW83bjA/v-deo.html Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/adi-goldstein/i-dont-need-your-love License code: IENTUENMMOENYVEX Music: www.bensound.com
Making a Desktop USB hub
Переглядів 1602 роки тому
In this video I am making a USB extension hub for my desktop. Subscribe to my channel to support me in making better content!
Rebuilding my CHEAP Amazon Milling Table [Milling Machine #2]
Переглядів 8 тис.2 роки тому
Rebuilding my CHEAP Amazon Milling Table [Milling Machine #2]
Amazon Milling Table overview [Milling Machine #1]
Переглядів 16 тис.2 роки тому
Amazon Milling Table overview [Milling Machine #1]
Homemade Milling Machine trying to cut STEEL
Переглядів 4,2 тис.2 роки тому
Homemade Milling Machine trying to cut STEEL
Should you buy the CHEAPEST 3D Printer ?? [conclusion]
Переглядів 1402 роки тому
Should you buy the CHEAPEST 3D Printer ?? [conclusion]
How to Drill Perfectly Centered Holes in Round Stock!
Переглядів 7 тис.3 роки тому
How to Drill Perfectly Centered Holes in Round Stock!
I bought the CHEAPEST 3D Printer I could find!
Переглядів 4023 роки тому
I bought the CHEAPEST 3D Printer I could find!
Simple trick for Removing Mill Scale
Переглядів 4,4 тис.3 роки тому
Simple trick for Removing Mill Scale
How does an impact wrench work? #shorts
Переглядів 1883 роки тому
How does an impact wrench work? #shorts
Linear Scale for my Homemade Milling Machine
Переглядів 9803 роки тому
Linear Scale for my Homemade Milling Machine
You might not respond but I still am taking the risk does this work on stainless steel?
Good question, I am not sure so I might just try it myself. It has to be noted that stainless likes to warp when heated so I'm not sure about the outcome. I'll let you know what my findings are.
That lathe is a relic. I would not use that to make parts regularly. It’s part of history, don’t ruin it. Get something more modern to use to make parts regularly and put that one on the shelf as a conversation piece/display art, don’t ruin that piece of history.
It is a bit of a historic piece indeed, however I decided to make it a usefull machine whilst maintaining al the original parts as they are. Whenever I want I can unbolt the spindle and replace it with the original one. Unfortunately the original pieces are not complete at the moment.
Can you do multiple dips for a darker finish?
The finish is mainly determined by the temperature at which you dip the part, if you want more control over the finish, cold bluing is also a good option.
GOOD❤❤❤
Thanks for your comment, have a nice day!
Ola, ganhou mais um inscrito 😊 Porque não deu continuidade ao projeto? A maior parte do pessoal no UA-cam que constrói essas maquinas, a maioria nem sai do papel, e os que começam o projeto para no meio do caminho.
Obrigado por seu comentário! Embora eu não tenha feito muitos vídeos sobre este projeto recentemente, ainda estou trabalhando na fresadora e estou perto de terminar outro vídeo sobre este projeto, mas meu tempo livre é limitado (desculpe pela tradução potencialmente ruim)
good job steve but you will need a cover over your motor, shaving is going into motor
Thanks for your comment! That is in fact a valid concern. I will make some sort of cover for the new motor that I have bought for this project.
heat and vegetable oil? THATS IT?!?!
Heat (the right amount) and any type of oil, yes that's it😉
@@EngineerSteve That's interesting. I'd be worried about doing so with firearms parts as that may ruin the temper and present a safety issue.. but this is cool nonetheless.
@@MausTanker I would not advise doing it on vital gun parts for the concern that you mentioned. Cold bluing seems more suitable for that purpose, I would imagine.
@@EngineerSteve still very cool to know!
Can you Pastidip Rubber parts ?
I have never used this process on rubber but I see no reason for it not to work.
and after welding you think the bearrings are still in line ?
Most likely not, it might not be that noticable but (line) boring after welding would be the best solution. That's outside my capacities though.
@@EngineerSteveI guess you could have used spherical self alinning roller bearings, but they might be expensive.
Nice lathe. Good work
Thanks! I just finished the new spindle for this machine. The original spindle, as seen in the video, dated from 1939 and did not allow for any serious turning work.
Very interesting. I watched all the videos on this and would like if you used it as a mill in the end. Sometimes I build something and it seems okay, but doesn’t work as intended. Nice work
Thanks, I am sure it will work but how far I can push it is a different question, we will find out in the end😉
Very nice work with that T slot table.
Thanks! I think it's a reasonable way of building one without the need for complex metal working operations.
Very nice work. I have tried before using my pillar drill for milling. It didn’t work well. It is just not stable/ strong enough for the task.
Thanks for your comment! My conclusion was the same, that's why I am building a new milling machine (video comming soon) that will incorporate all the viewer feedback and things I learned.
Nice! Good job on the progress.
Thanks for your comment, have a great day!
Do you have the files for the spindle available?
The design of the spindle is not yet fininished but when it is I will surely make the files available!
@@EngineerSteve legend
@Engineer Steve Better spin the rod, not drill... Just like on the lathe...
Thanks for the input, I have a small lathe now so this setup will see no use anymore to me.
Hello do you have the stl files? I have a vintage RandA lathe!
Thanks for your comment, I made the files available here: www.homemadetools.net/forum/3d-printed-mini-lathe-add-ons-98898 If you can not acces the files this way, please let me know.
Hi- Did you check accuracy of table in both axis? If so how much variation?
I have not yet done any accuracy checks but that is something I want to do in the future, after all it's a cheap table.
That's not black ! Or even blue come to that .
This process is commonly referred to as'hot bluing' my best guess is that the metal oxidizes to a blue colour (by means of heating it) before being cooled down in oil, hence the name
Is it safe to heat a revolver cylinder this much?
I am no expert at bluing guns but I would apply cold blue in this situation to prevent heat distortion.
Great design and build, especially the spindle. Rigidity is everything obviously for milling, but rigidity is not just for the material or weight of the machine (adding concrete or epoxy to cavities will help but won't ever be enough) -- it is also in the mechanical design of the basic structure of the machine, its shape and how its frame and the spindle housing is "held". In a drill press the frame is on a round column, spindle being a foot away from the round column, and hence the whole thing (the cast iron frame as a whole) just wants to turn with the force of the end mill pushing against the work -- and I mean, turn with a circle around the column: the radius being from the end mill to the center of the cylindrical column. Whatever weight or extra clamps we introduce, that radial force will always be there with that frame setup, causing at best major chatter, at worst wandering both at the milling end and even at the workpiece. So the solution will have to be introducing any means to limit that radial force that tries to turn the whole machine -- I've seen people attaching metal bars from the frame (on the two sides of the spindle housing or whatever works) to walls, ceiling, bench, etc. to make it way more rigid for instance, with varying results. But the point is, the whole machine will need extra structural elements to be attached (probably even at the back of the column and the base) to minimize any vibration due to a radial force that the machine "shape" was never designed for. A rectangular column would change everything haha!
You are correct on every point you mentioned, I learned a lot by building/converting this machine (also through reading helpfull comments). I am now using that knowledge and experience for building a new milling machine, there already are a few videos on my channel about the new machine and many will follow!
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Thank you! much appreciated
My airgun lost its bluing in one spot, could i heat that part and put a few drops of oil on just it? Also could I put gun oil instead of vegetable oil? Thanks!
In that situation I would recommend using cold blue. I think it will work better for small spots, additionally you don't have to heat up the part at all.
Hi is it possible to control x and y axis by a motor? Like cnc?
One of my goals with the new machine I am building currently is to make it (semi) CNC, I am pretty sure it is possible but you just need to figure out some motor mounts and expect some backlash with the original leadscrews.
The price is in "old money". 9 pounds, nine shillings and no pence, so, 9 pounds 45 pence in modern decimal currency. Cheers
Thank you for the insight!
Nice looking spindle! One of the questions I’ve had in replacing an existing headstock and spindle is how do you ensure it is parallel with the ways and matches up with the tailstock?
Thanks for your comment! I am still working on the exact procedure so I will get to this topic in the next video.
I think that the price listing is of the format pounds/shillings/pence which was before the UK decimalised their currency in 1971. According to the Bank of England inflation calculator 9 pounds in 1939 would be 484.88 today.
Thanks, I learned something new!
almost 6 times the price and 10decibel less noise, including the engineering and probable long term use, noctua supposedly worth the price (and perhaps profits)
Depends on what you are planning to use them for, personally I like products with lower noise levels but cheaper alternatives will work as well (up to a lower standard of course)
you need min vibrasion steel machine body and 2.5hp power motor
The milling machine that I am building right now (to replace the one in this video) will indeed have a lot more mass to improve rigidity. However you do not need 2.5 hp, 1 hp is plenty for small machines.
Thank you very much.
Thanks for your comment!
Why not R8 or BT30?
The milling machine I am building right now has BT30 so I learned from my mistakes 😀
I think the main reason why you hadn’t much colour in the welds is because it’s mild steel. It hardly gets colour unless you have the setting perfect. The pictures you showed were of stainless it will always get colour as long as it’s not too hot.
Yes, you are right about the colours and mild steel; although I do tend to have some colour in the majority of my mild steel welds unless the heat input into the part is high.
@@EngineerSteve great review of thr welder I think you convinced me to buy. Has the tig high frequency or is it scratch start
@@barrycooney7195 It has high frequency start, the only remark I have is that there is no digital display for your amps (which makes it easier to use consistent settings for certain thickness). For the price it really is an incredible machine, comparable with professional grade machines.
@@EngineerSteve I noticed the lack of a digital display but it’s a small compromise. Might treat myself in the new year. Thanks
@@barrycooney7195 You should take a look at the torch, I have bought a different torch after making this video because I didn't really like the one supplied with the machine. depending on preference of course
If I had £1 for every time I've reassembled my lathes headstock, THEN realised I hadn't fitted the belt, I'd have at least enough for a couple pints of lager. :D
It is indeed easy to forget 🙂 Cheers anyway!
A mill table made out of sheet metal it will always flex. The list you can do is have the flat sheet that you use as ways converted to an l profile. Bolt it to the side of the way and the side of the table.
Thanks for your comment! This is exactly one of the problems I had. I am currently working on a new milling machine with a (bought) cast iron table.
Nice work! What do you think is it possible to rotate handle which releases carriage apron from lead screw? I mean, when the handle is pressed down carriage move and correspondingly when the handle is upper-right carriage doesn't move?
It might be possible but on this apron it will likely contact the carriage handwheel or restrict your motion when operating the handwheel. Do you prefer the carriage to stop when you push down the handle?
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! I am so impressed. I am completing a Simple Manual mill converting a Dremel Drill Press Stand. My work is much smaller, Model Trains 1/64 scale so just smaller than Lionel and just bigger than HO. But I want all the features you have put into your lovely beautiful machine. I hope to learn from your video and will be able to make a 1/2 size machine soon. Thank You Dennis
Thanks for your comment! just remember that rigidity is key, that's why I am in the process of building a new mill. Although much more expensive, it should work much better. Good luck with your project!
@@EngineerSteve I had a Vintage Bridgeport in our R&D Lab at Pfizer huge cast metal frame Oh My God. My Model trains are not CT Scanners so I think we will be OK with pretty rigid. Thanks, Dennis
Can you do this with stainless steel
I have yet to try this process on stainless steel, of course the purpose of bluing is rust prevention, which is not that much of an concern on stainless. If you are aiming for discoloration you can surely change the color of stainless by just heating it.
Thx for the vid man. Was looking for exactly this. Quick and to the point. Keep at it🫡
Thanks! have a nice day
Hi Steve, love the content but there is room for improvement if it comes to showing exactly what you are talking about, I’m patient when it comes to that! I have the same lathe an love the 3D printed parts! Might use your idea if that’s fine. Looking forward to a good barings solution as well 😅
Thanks for your comments, videography is not my strongest skill but with feedback like this it will improve over time 🙂 I am too looking forward to the new bearing setup, I can't wait to use this awesome little machine to make some nice parts!
Steve, i need your advice. The cover plate of harmonicas, its thin but i want to blu it so bad and its scary in some ways. What do you think? Is that stainless going to warp like a mofo or what? Even just doing the heat to it and slowly shifting its color is where I'd like to go.
That's an interesting question, I actually don't know but I think I will give it a try myself with this process. I do know that cold bluing doesn't work on stainless. I will get back to you when I tried it.
@EngineerSteve so I got Horner old standby arriving tomorrow for $16, and I can do map, propane, or oxygen/acetylene to really just go doh. Im not fucking up my MS blues bands at $55. You'd think someone would of done this because they were rainbowing everything there from pipes to knives. Im only worried that it will rough up the finish, and I'll look like Chris Rock in new jack city with some jacked up lips. Dude, I look everywhere, and I found nothing. I even asked those guys and GCs at work today that know it all, but NIEN! I just be the first dude to think this because the only first credit to my name is Crown Royal apple with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a low ball glass.
Is it possible to have a darker shade of black? How if so? And what exactly are the metals that can be blued? Awesome video thank you!
In regards to cold bluing, yes. You can make it darker in color by applying more layers of bluing; then once you’re done just rinse it with water, dry off, and let the metal soak in oil for about two hours. Hope this helps!
@@Warlock.MFG.Co. Exactly
A little bit of a darker shade might be possible with hot bluing when getting the part to a higher temperature, if you want to have a darker shade I would suggest cold bluing. I am not aware of hot bluing being effective on any material, other than steel/iron. Other metals might require chemical processes.
Take a little sandpaper for glossy parts. Ruff it up
Good one! that will make it quicker
My 12 gauge single barrel got rusted, due to the rust all smoothness and finishing gone for ever.Gunsmith here applies different methods to restore the original Bluing but still its not good. I learned a lot from this video, please help me further for the nice results.Thanks Steve for the superb upload.
Thanks for you comment! if you want to try something else, you might want to try cold bluing as well, visually it gives similar (or even better) results without potential heat distortion.
Nice
Thank you
Don't go using this on gun parts. Getting the steel that hot will ruin the hardening and tempering of the steel.
Hot bluing basically destroys your part, since it´s a head treatment technique. It´s also the worst method to prevent corrosion in steel. It´s only a very very thin layer which needs constant oiling. Do zinc plating or painting instead if you want to preserve your parts structure not cause warpage and get better corrosion protection.
The temperature to which the part is heated, barely changes the structural strength of the part. The annealing temperature for steel is around 815 C (1500 F), where as hot bluing happens closer to 290 C (550 F). I hope this clears thing up, rust protecting properties are not that good indeed but hot bluing has its use cases. Have a nice day.
@@EngineerSteve Hardening temp is a range depending on material of about 800°C-900°C However, temperatures as low as 250°C have an influence on the parts structure. That´s why parts have to be annealed in an oven after heat treatment which makes them hard and brittle, to simply gain their ductility back. As you can see hot bluing is in a range where the material structure is influenced, not as much as hardening does but still sufficient enough to change the part properties for certain applications. Martensitic structures within the steel already change at 150°C.
@@sierraecho884 True, I guess it depends on the application of the part, whether or not you want to risk disturbing the structure with heat.
@@EngineerSteve Exactl! Hot bluing parts should be a good idea right after you forge them, since you have to heat treat them anyway, so you can just dip em into some oil and later on anneal the part. Honestly this is the biggest disadvantage of steel which I hate, it´s super prone to corrosion unless you use Chrome in the alloy.
Hot bluing isn't done like this. It's done using boiling water and some real nasty chemicals.
It IS bluing and defnitely more durable than any of the cold bluing solutions. Nice video Steve.
Thanks for your comment! I am planning to compare the durability of cold and hot bluing to see what the difference is.
This is NOT bluing. Heating steel till it turns blue ruins the heat treatment and hardness of the steel. Proper steel bluing is done using a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and boiling water.
@@LBCAndrew Depending on the desired specification, the state of temper/hardness does not always matter. Nevertheless it is important to have some knowledge of how the steel might be affected.
Does it have to be vegetable oil
Not necessarily, I chose for vegetable oil because it is cheap and accessible. It will work with other oil as well, I am unsure whether the results will be different or not.
@@EngineerSteve Can you blue a part over and over again to add layers of blueing? sorta like hot salt bluing?
Sorry to see you grinding away back-gear mounts. it is extremely useful part and you will regret that !!!
Maybe I will but the problem is that there are some parts missing to make the original driveline work and there are no parts available. For me it was a choice between making this machine work again or leave it unusable.
I was also horrified by the removal of the supporting structures. I should perform a similar mini lathe motor modification. Now the transmission of the motor installed is counterproductive as in the video. The chunk rotation speed is far too much If I don't use back gears for a decrease speed. My intention is to add a reduction gear between the motor and the lathe. Example similar belt transmissions type is used many press drilling machines. But if you will be able to fulfill the intended purpose with a motor change, thumbs up! 😊 Perhaps the frequency converter could work on the decrease in chunk revolutions ?