Відео

Where do you buy those same type of anti-siphon valves?

Looks very nice. I just wanted to thank you for posting your work and process, and also compliment you on your detailed explanation of each step. MD

Care to make another one? I've been looking for something just like this.

Man im too late found this video 😢

The only thing it wants to do is lay flat on the ground 😂😂 spot on 👏

Hi great video thank you could you tell me the outside diameter of your 104 gear and your 175 gear thanks i can not find them to buy as i live in Thailand i will have to make them your video is so understanding thank you helped me so much

Viewers … save yourself a lot of time and effort and just troll Marketplace looking under “lab oven.” You can get a 110V benchtop oven that was used in a laboratory and that is vertical oriented, has a circulating fan like a convection oven, and with the same internal dimensions as this one, for less than $500.

Use more Citrustrip. Get a new plastic scraper. It should all come off easier. Use the shell on a flat surface to pressure roll, not the 3" pipe.

In Ukraine threaded tubes are so common. Most of them just can't afford modern ones.

Perfect video. Thanks.

I dl dis video for offline use . Thanks 👍👍👍

Wow thats a lot of runout on your mill.

Dude you stole chef john's food wishes music...blasphemy ====> ua-cam.com/video/JsZCkBH7v2k/v-deo.html

What did you do at the end to make the Ecotec VVT letters pop? Appreciate the easy video to follow along

Fantastic info - Thanks soooo much!!

9:35 😮 Thank you for making this point!

Hey John I’m looking to add a Shuziyu 14” brush cutter blade to my DR push trimmer. I have two beaver blade kits for parts. I’m looking for some help making a connector for the Shuziyu. Any interest?

This is all good info (and reverse thread option will work too) for the Shop Fox m1099 which is apparently a clone of the G0602 with slightly larger swing and longer center to center.

Thank you! I could not figure out what they were trying to tell me with those charts!

VERY useful video, thanks for posting it. I would like to mention one thing though, and that is your setup for reverse threading. You don't need to go buy a second 127 tooth gear because any size gear (that will fit) will work. It is what is called an idler gear, and its size or number of teeth will not affect the ratio and torque values between gear 1 and gear 3. I know this might sound wrong, but trust me I know gears...I am a clockmaker. Another advantage of using a gear there smaller than 127 teeth is you can find one that will let you close the door.

Your tool post isn't quite square in this video

VERY clear and informative! Thanks John, I learned a lot of valuable information. Good thing YT has a <Save> function, cause I WILL need to re-visit some details. 😉

You've overcomplicated the subject. The start is confusing. I'm off. Bye....

Or just place it front side up on a desk and drill in that way so you don’t need to have to worry about accidentally slipping and drilling a big gash around the hole

If you have a rare one throw your bike away lol wise words

Thanks....great instructions....😎

Can i use Shimano Claris road STI 8 speed shifters with vintage 7 speed shimao 1051 group?

I wish I’d seen this earlier. That looks beefy enough to hold up! I basically copied another UA-camr’s design and I keep having to straighten it.

Good video! Nice job with the controls. I used to do commercial appliance repair as an add on to refrigeration, AC and heating, and I enjoyed learning things watching your video, including about welding, I thought also that pulling that square root of 7 out of your head on the spot was pretty cool. Thank you very much posting the video. On angle grinders we've had our share of closer than close calls so, ... everybody, be careful, keep the grinder guard on, except when you are making a video, and don't let what you are cutting pinch the blade, as explained in the video, because high speed angle grinders are extremely dangerous.

Great video. Sucks being a mechanic to buy all these tools cuz you never know what your customers have. Same goes for derailleur hangers and hydraulic bleed port adaptors. It’s such a headache to deal with all these standards (or lack of).

Thank you for sharing your wisdom with me

thought this was going to be a mark felton video

Thanks for the vid. I have this model and only use it when i need to make a part which isnt too often, and i am VERY green when it comes to machining. Haven't had to make threads but knowing about it, kinda makes me want to turn some bolts.

It could be, although I think it’s just red grease.

At about 7:33 ,Is that blood on your vice on the left? Lol

Very informative and very well explained.

do you sell the bracket ?

My brain hurts after listening to all that mess. I'm glad I could follow your explanations. well done ,just subbed

What Brand name Oil catch did you use?

Great video. Really helped a lot. Thank you!

Nice build. As mentioned in another comment I used a double oven and just joined the doors but made them a side open instead of a bottom open. 1 thing I did different though is I used a PID controller with both elements running at the same time to give a better more consistent heat. The oven controls give a broader range of heat. If you set it at 400, the controller cuts off and on at wider ranges so keeping a constant 400 is nearly impossible. Just an option.

I have a millermatic MIG, a generic TIG and an AC/DC Lincoln arc and I prefer the miller for everything up 3/8" steel.

Along with the Sine, Cosine, and Tangent formula's my favorite is the Relationships of a 30-60-90 triangle which is 1-2-Square root of 3 " 1.732 " Also a 45-45-90 triangle which is 1-1-Square root of 2 "1.414" Using the 30-60-90 rule to figure the thread depth , Pitch /2 x 1.732 will give you the approximate depth per side.

Pretty nasty out-tro there...

Metric is standard :)

I hear you on the die, but here's a tip on how you can thread full depth up to the shoulder with a die... after your first run to the shoulder, reverse the die and cut with the back end, this will give you a full depth thread all the way to the shoulder (takes just a few extra seconds). Ciao, Marco.

The comments below are correct. However, for the purposes of home shop machining, a symmetrical form is sufficient. He is also correct that the flats on a basic form is 1/8P wide. This results in a formula of .650P (or .649519P) commonly referred to as "Single Height" or "Standard Height". This is the formula upon which all the other elements are calculated, if and when it's necessary! However, again, for our purposes, .650P should be used. If you use .866P (Sharp Height) for your infeed depth, the thread will be completely sharp, and the Pitch Diameter will be undersize. Of course, this also depends on how the tool is ground! Either way, .650P depth is safer when you are trial fitting in a home shop!

For the novice who has seen a thread, but not really SEEN what it entails, they always assume that a thread is pointy sharp on the top of the crest and in valley of the root. So they overcut the depth. As a general rule, the top crest of the thread is FLAT and that flat zone is as wide as 1/8 of the pitch. You don't notice this if you're not looking for it. The valley of the root could be as wide as 1/4 of the pitch, but most guys aren't going to flatten the end of their thread tool because.....lazy. I agree with lazy for the most part, but if you want as strong a thread as possible, you will pay attention to this detail. So beginning with a pointy sharp thread tool is where the first systematic error begins. So remember because your tool is sharper than it should be, this will exaggerate how deep you need to cut. But when eyeballing cutting progress, keep in mind that the crest of the thread is supposed to be flat on top if the screw is at exactly theoretical diameter. If you cut it under the theoretical diameter, then the flat will appear slightly wider. Look at a piece of commercial roll threaded rod, it's way undersize and it's very flat on top. When machining the internal thread, the flat of the threads is 1/4 of the pitch in width. This looks VERY wide to the novice. So this is why the internal thread might be done before you know it. Most internal threads get tapped, and people don't notice this detail. But the torque required to tap gets very high if the hole provides more than 66% engagement of the pitch height, so that's the reason for more clearance in thread cutting the nut. Cutting your bolt at the exact theoretical major diameter might make you think you're doing a superior job, but not so. Depending on the pitch, it should be a couple of thousandths of an inch undersize to absolutely forbid interference at the crest with the root of the nut crest. Usually have to file off a slight bit of burr anyways. But in the nut, you can't deburr so easily, but it's not an issue because of extra clearance that you drill into it.

You have a thread chasing dial so you CAN open the half nut just as long as you re engage it on the same spot on the same rotation on the dial as you reverse direction.

Great video. Really! Great idea about the last idle gear for left hand threads. However, normally one could use any gear size for the reverse motion. That gear does not contribute to a ratio because it is a single gear. So, for instance, for a complete revolution of the "a" gear so many teeth will have passed (45 in this example). Then, the idle gear will turn so much that the same number of teeth will move along its arc (45 teeth) and the same goes for the middle "c" gear, namely, 45 teeth as well and regardless of the size of the additional idle gear (as long as another gear could fit in the setup). At any rate, this is a great idea and gain the whole video is really good. Thanks.