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I'm not familiar with that motor. We don't have that in the US. I would say that it should flow no matter what the engine temperature is you may have to rev it a little to get some flow at the small tube. You can try to blow in the hose to see if it is clear.

@ ehhm “have to rev it”? What does it mean rev? Xd

​@@balintviktor2409Increase the RPMs.

It is held in the boost with a rubber grommet. I rock the fitting around a bit and spray it with silicone and gently remove it. That grommet is around $20 so try not to tear it.

That may be possible. I like this way because that basically where the factory harness is connected.

@ is this the connector under air box?

Thanks, my lack of editing skills dictates that my videos are short and to the point.

They all run from the vacuum pump on the end of the motor to the brake booster.

Email me at mavwp@ptd.net with your VIN.

On most applications you'll use heat shrink butt connectors.

Usually when these fail it is visible that the hose is cracked. You could remove it at the booster and check for vacuum with the motor running, then check for vacuum at the pump. The bad part about that way is then you're stuck with an unusable car or reinstalling a bad part that probably is now in worse condition after being removed.

If you can't communicate with the ECU with the key on it sounds more like a power supply relay problem. It would be cheaper and easier to try that.

I had continuity from the red/green stripped wire from the bottom of the fuse box to where it enters the ecu as 3 red/green wires at pins 3,4,6. At that point I wasn’t sure what to do next so I just put everything back together and then had vcds communication to the engine module and the car started. I ran it for a month and now it’s acting up again. I also changed the 100 relay and cleaned all 5 grounds. Running out of ideas.

They all have the small fitting on them. This is the source for the vacuum system that operates things like the VNT actuator on the turbo, EGR valves and such.

I have seen other videos where there changed them the way you describe. I have done a few since I've done the video and it really doesn't take long to get everything apart. Glad this helped you.

On the tensioners why is one with a spring and the other in a casing ?

@@eyeamjaydee915 It's just an updated version of the part.

You can splice it in anywhere there is access to the wires. I feel splicing near the plug gives a more factory like repair. There are other wires on the plug near where I splice, it just wasn't designed to be a separate removeable part.

It seems to have fixed it. I now have about 3500 miles on it since I changed the harness and it's been fine. Just yesterday I passed 280,000 miles on the car.

I'm still here in the same place. It's time to start thinking about replacing the belt, but it's no emergency yet.

Thank you for your order. The metal gasket goes between the turbo and the tube. The paper ones would go at the other end of the tube and the top tube where the cooler meets the EGR valve.

@@marquetteautomotivevwparts thank you so much. You guys are very helpful. I’ll be ordering from you in the future and I’ll shout you out to all my tdi buddies. Thanks again 👍🏼👍🏼

Yes, the motors will be the same and you will be using the wiring harness that is in your car.

@@marquetteautomotivevwparts isnt there a vin split on early 02's tdi alh motors that take the 2 wire harness and not the 4 wire?

@@Jeromesclosetbreaks Possibly, that's why I say always check it. I've known of a few customers that would stock the four wire harness then if using on an early car connect 1&2 together and 3&4 together then connect as you would a 2 wire harness. Nothing wrong with that.

@@Jeromesclosetbreaks 99 1/2 to 01 they say are the same, The ebrake and caliper are different as well in that group, a barrel shape end crimp vs ball .

For us in the US with a BRM motor there is a plug under the air box. Remove the air box. Separate the plug. Check for continuity to the glow plug end of the harness to be sure you're cutting the correct wires. Cut away the harness wrap to give the maximum wire to work with and splice there using heat shrink butt connectors.

@@marquetteautomotivevwparts I have an 4 wire harness, and I bxj engine! 😅 Do you guys have an Instagram or Facebook, so I could send some pictures?

@@aliasgaramirali323 I don't and I'm not familiar with that engine.