Відео

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No idea honestly. The youtube algorithm is weird, so maybe the length and title played a part? Not sure.

I knew I wanted to climb the right side of the flow and didn't want to create a zig-zag so I just ran it out, but I should have put a piece in for my follower.

Dzięki Piotr! Thanks for watching :)

Great question! I always plan my placements and try to only place in restful positions. On long routes where I can’t plan every placement from the bottom, I’ll identify intermediate points from which I can analyze the rest of the route and plan my upcoming placements. With exceptions, I try to only lead what I could solo and view ‘not falling’ as my primary protection and my screws and rope as my secondary protection. As such, I often make choices that prioritize ‘not falling’ over placing more screws. This means that I end up running things out a bit but I’m generally not climbing things I’m not very confident on. There are of course exceptions to all of this, but generally if I start sewing it up its usually a good sign that I should be backing off the climb - be it from fatigue, or ice conditions, etc…

Thank you!

Its probably the least complex section of ice on the route and not quite vertical so it felt pretty cruiser.

底下是个low angle

60m. Gotta bump up the belay to the base of the long steep section to make it. There are bolts at the bottom left, but the guide book beta was worded funny and the ice near the bolts was dripping so it wasn’t clear that I should do that nor was it enticing 😅 19:05 ish

I have to say good climbing…..but pretty poor tactics….BUT a good get out.👍

@@jimmarshall9945 why poor tactic

I should have left the screw recovery in. Its mildly-interesting in that I backed up my stubby with a tool and jugged back up. Ran out of battery for the finishing mini pitch 🤷‍♀️

Totally interesting on the anchor set-up, and I was wondering when you were going to set up the belay. Yep the battery issue w/ the cold is a bummer- my GoPro batteries are aging and they don't hold a charge as they did when new. Deft need to get an insta 360- looks like thats what you're filming with. Cheers, and keep the vids coming. @@sourlandhomemovies222

Lmao! Glad someone noticed haha

Hey Phil! I use an insta360 RS One Inch camera on the insta360 10ft pole and let it hang out of my back pack. Not at full extension, but enough so that I don’t hit the camera with my swings and a little extra.

Cheers mate. I'll look at the kit. Last time I made a climbing movie was on the White Cliffs of Dover with Mick Fowler back in 93. It's definatly changed since then! ( as have I). I made an A frame camera mount for a pen vid camera, with a 4 foot lead to a pro batamax back pack VCR. Weighed about 28 punds. The frame was a proper Heath Robinson affair made from water pipe and gaffer tape. The link failed within minutes, so we re did lots of tight shots of picks going in, hands on handles, front points teetering etc, and stitched it together in editing. It was pretty far out for the time and the first climbing film ever on chalk. If your ever in Blighty, you have to have a go on the chalk down near Peacehaven/Newhaven way, not far from Brighton. You can do it in shorts in the summer! ... A-mazing. Stay safe matey... xxx ;-)@@sourlandhomemovies222 .

@@philwaters9751holy cow that’s gnarly! What kinda gear do you use to protect chalk?

That's a good question. We used to use snargs, but they could take up to 70 blows with a 2 lb lump hammer to place. When establishing a route, especially on the lead, I pioneerd using a cordless drill with a wood bit and then hammering modified re-bar into the holes. Then I started using cheap ex russian titanium tube screws. Much more user friendly, and they'd squeek as you tourqued them into the hole, just a bit bigger than the core, but not as big as the threads. I did a few routes leaving flagged plastic tubes in the holes for others to then utilize, but then moved North and ain't been back for over a decade. No...I tell a lie. I visted Newhaven, just below the old castle there where I opened up a small top rope training area with a bird a few years back. I could just make out the old re-bar hangers and tat. It all gets pretty dirtied up in the English weather. You can drive to the base of that wee crag... Others set up superior leading and top roping 'gyms' near Saltdean under massive overhangs. Niel Gresham, Dave Peglar ( ran a local climbing shop, I never met him) and friends with sponsorship, a place called The Pleasuredome. Spectres and Bulldogs are very good in the stiff, sometimes very hard chalk, especially on the lead. If I get the old movie compressed someday, I'll ping you a copy, though I imagine there are other more up to date movies out now. I think Neil Gresham made a few, and once did it for a sausage advert on telly! But it is still very niech. You have to watch out for the sharp flint nodules, sometimes a good 10 inches long, sticking out of the chalk, as a whipper can pull the ropes over the flints and that's not a great idea. Phil Thornhill and Mick Fowler, Britains most famous Alpinist and light weight Himalayan legand were the original pioneers I believe. There will be something about it in his book, No Easy Way. The Challanging Life Of A Climbing Taxman... Which I'll buy as soon as the price drops...😂@@sourlandhomemovies222

Haha! Wild stuff Phil! @@philwaters9751

This is an area called the Narrows between Upper Black Eddy and Kintnersville along the Delaware in PA.

Thanks! It was a real treat to climb :)

Hell yes! I've only done Trap dike solo, would love to have someone to share rope duties with and buy some ice screws

@@jasonbennett2194 I have a full kit already.