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Stock fuel pressure regulator is also modified to relieve extra fuel pressure buildup. This prevents abnormally high fuel pressures. (*This step is skipped if converting to a return fuel system, which requires an external adjustable fuel pressure regulator and return correction the swirl jet is slightly opened to accommodate the higher flow of fuel. I can't say for sure why its not starting up right away but with no tune the car should be sending the same amount of fuel

It's not required but the fuel regulator and swirl jet opening is ready for the higher flow when it does get tuned but talk with your mechanic every build is different and requires different setup

If you go back E85 then yes and injectors

I understand what you are saying but How is that cheaper? It's less work not cheaper come on bro plus we did the work ourselves so no labor charge just time for the price of one rotor I bought the set bearings and races fyi if the rotors is not warped and has no damage and it's still the correct thickness with a caliper gauge why replace it?

I have the black grommet on the top of the fuel pump I didn't put on the white clip on the bottom

No problem thanks for watching

It will help clear up some of the raspy sound that the VQs produce with a catback exhaust

@@Jbimports23 i have an Ark catback too so yeah. Berk sounds pretty decent.

That's should be a good size it's just a little bit bigger than 0.1 but not by much i think it's around 0.109 the 7/64 bit but as long as the hole on the swirl jet is opened a bit bigger it could flow through the factory housing because our cars have a return less system for the fuel pump from factory depending on your horsepower needs or if you're going forced induction you will might need to get a aftermarket return system installed but each build is different and you're going to have to keep doing research

Yes a little bit it will look a little bit like the gasket on the oil filter just make sure it sits in the groove on the oil cooler

Okay because I have done this process like 3 times and it’s still leaking and I torqued it down to damn near 40 lbs

It was pouring out at first then I torqued it and it’s a slow drip im on the verge on putting rtv on the gasket

Yours looks like it’s in deeper way more then mine

I can’t tell if it’s the angle of yours

Thank you for the tips

Big facts always a headache when cars sit for a while

Where’s before and after vid? Does it sound good, perform good, did you need to tune the car, any change in mpg yada yada ya.

I was able to press it down but it took some effort. make sure you are able to push the pump all the way up into the fitting

I had to cut the plastic on the top where the power connect to the pump to fit the pump in

Why mod the regulator you did not say block it off on a return system

Yass we need one

They*

Unless your boosting it I think the stock fuel pump works fine

It has same as yours plus I have the big bore throttle body and a plenum spacer planning on doing the trans go valve body upgrade He is right your stock one would be more than enough to handle but if you plan on forced induction or nitrous in the future might as well preventive maintenance

I reused the factory hose and i could not get it to fit with the sleeve maybe in other applications they get used the make the pump to fit in multiple cars

I was trying to grind it down to fit the bottom but I couldn't get it it to sit flush. But it was a snug fit with the rubber sleeve that holds it in place with the top of the pump

🤦🏾‍♂️ I’m going through this as we speak Mecanic said it can still slip out,period digs drifting speed bump🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️

I'm waiting for a cts front mount intercooler I got on offerup

Issue fixed the clutches in the compressor were rusted together

It was my friends car but he had the non VVTi motor with the jdm 2J lower block and some bolts ons

Yes I changed the compressor and the condenser not sure which fixed it but it went away